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Inside the Quick Shot II Turbo Joystick


k-Pack

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blog-0521850001433430878.jpgI was surprised at the dismal condition my joysticks were in when I tested them with the Pocket Joystick Tester. When an LED did not light, I know it was broken but most of the time they would dim, blink, or change light intensity as the switches were activated. These are sure signs that the contacts need cleaning.

If I’m going to clean the contacts I may as well take some pictures to share.

 

 

 

Quick Shot II Turbo

 

I’m not sure where I got this joystick or if it has ever been opened up. There appears to be some rework but this could have been done to solve some design and manufacturing problems. There weren’t any broken parts in the base?

 

 

The following information is molded on the bottom between the 4 suction cups.

Quick Shot II

Turbo

Model # QS-111

UK. Design Reg.No. 10333206

 

 

 

 

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The “auto fire – manual – and CPC 464” switch controls the trigger firing mode. In auto-fire the triggers continually fire at a rate determined by circuit component design. The CPC 464 setting is for use with the Amstrad CPC 464 computer.

 

The contacts look heavy duty. The spring and flap work together to make a distinctive click and contact. As the spring is pushed down by a pin on the shaft, the flap flips down and makes contact with a metal rod soldered in the board.

 

The cable for this joystick requires 7 wires instead of the normal 6 wire cable of the Atari Joystick. The extra wire is used to provide 5V to the auto-fire circuit. (and can be useful for many joystick port hardware projects)

 

The bottom of the shaft did seem to have some modifications done to it. Two of the pins that push on the springs had plastic tubing over them. I’m supposing they are to improve spring contact. The brackets that hold the shaft in place have markings that make me believe they may have been modified. Both may have been done to improve performance.

 

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Hello,

I got this joystick and just wondering about autofire switch.

Is autofire mode suppose to work without pressing the fire buttons?

I thought it would be more convenient to have it autofire just when pressing the buttons.

Is there a way to make this work like that?

Thank you.

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Does anybody know, what is the value of 2 resistors for the fire buttons (orange and black wire from the fire buttons)? Is it 150 Ohm like it says on motherboard, because on this picture are not 150 0hm? Thanks

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11 hours ago, butjer1010 said:

Does anybody know, what is the value of 2 resistors for the fire buttons (orange and black wire from the fire buttons)? Is it 150 Ohm like it says on motherboard, because on this picture are not 150 0hm? Thanks

it looks like the bands on R8 and R9 are Violet-Green-Violet - Silver, on my display.

 

That would be 75E7 or 750 Megaohms with a 10% tolerance.

 

I only have one joystick of this kind and my major problem, when I opened it up, was solved by cleaning the contacts.  

 

 

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18 hours ago, k-Pack said:

it looks like the bands on R8 and R9 are Violet-Green-Violet - Silver, on my display.

 

That would be 75E7 or 750 Megaohms with a 10% tolerance.

 

I only have one joystick of this kind and my major problem, when I opened it up, was solved by cleaning the contacts.  

 

 

I found one QS II  Turbo in pieces, without cable and without those two resistors. On board where are those two resistors supposed to be, it is written 150 (in a rectangle). On the pictures over the web, on my display, i see brown-green-red(or brown also), but the fourth in the line is gold. That means 15, and not 150 like the board "says". I managed to find cable and i "borrow" new switches from some cheap joystick, and all the directions are working now, except fire buttons, because the missing resistors. Can You please open Yours, and see what are the "real colors" on resistors, maybe the problem is - on different screens are different colors?

Thanks in advance

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18 hours ago, k-Pack said:

it looks like the bands on R8 and R9 are Violet-Green-Violet - Silver, on my display.

 

That would be 75E7 or 750 Megaohms with a 10% tolerance.

Isn't silver color 10 on-2 (10 mili Ohms, not Mega Ohms)?

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18 hours ago, k-Pack said:

it looks like the bands on R8 and R9 are Violet-Green-Violet - Silver, on my display.

 

That would be 75E7 or 750 Megaohms with a 10% tolerance.

I tried with closest resistor i found on some old PSU, just for testing, and it worked, but i wanted to do that as it supposed to be. One contact on lower resistor is missing, so i solder wire direct on other side of this trace. It doesn't look nice, but that was for testing purpose onlyIMAG3669.thumb.jpg.b129ba2c191c45bbbdcc87015e6c5199.jpg :)

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1 hour ago, butjer1010 said:

I found one QS II  Turbo in pieces, without cable and without those two resistors. On board where are those two resistors supposed to be, it is written 150 (in a rectangle). On the pictures over the web, on my display, i see brown-green-red(or brown also), but the fourth in the line is gold. That means 15, and not 150 like the board "says". I managed to find cable and i "borrow" new switches from some cheap joystick, and all the directions are working now, except fire buttons, because the missing resistors. Can You please open Yours, and see what are the "real colors" on resistors, maybe the problem is - on different screens are different colors?

Thanks in advance

Sorry but I no longer own this joystick.

 

The fourth band on a resister is the Tolerance.  no band is 20%, Silver is 10% and Gold is 5%.  This band defines the range that the measured value will be within.

 

a Violet - Green - Violet - Silver is 750000000 ohm resister and will measure between   675,000,000 and 825,000,000 ohms.

 

I hope you can get it working.

 

 

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4 hours ago, k-Pack said:

Sorry but I no longer own this joystick.

To bad, this picture is different on any monitor.

 

4 hours ago, k-Pack said:

The fourth band on a resister is the Tolerance.  no band is 20%, Silver is 10% and Gold is 5%.  This band defines the range that the measured value will be within.

Aaaah, my bad then. So, if it is brown - green - brown - as i see on my monitor, this could really be 150 Ohms resistor (like the markings on the board). Thanks a million times, i will let You know when i receive 150 O resistors i ordered today.

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Today i received 150 Ohm resistors, and YES, it works! So it was brown-green-brown! Thank You k-Pack for the effort (and learning me what 4th band is :)).

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Hi, i have managed to buy another QS2 Turbo, again with problems :). All the problems except autofire were solved with new cable, so fire and all the direction now works great, but autofire isn't working. There is 5V on the "autofire switch"(see picture) on the board from 7th pin (measured when c64 was turned on), but when i turn autofire, nothing happens except that normal fire buttons aren't working any more. I tried to measure all the resistors, they are all fine, capacitor also gives "normal" value (13uf not 10, but that's ok). All the traces seems fine, i even looked on other QS2T that works great, what pins on that switch supposed to be soldered together, and it is the same as on this good one. Did You had any similar problem, so perhaps You know what could be the problem?

Thanks in advance

IMAG40631.jpg

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4 hours ago, butjer1010 said:

Hi, i have managed to buy another QS2 Turbo, again with problems :). All the problems except autofire were solved with new cable, so fire and all the direction now works great, but autofire isn't working. There is 5V on the "autofire switch"(see picture) on the board from 7th pin (measured when c64 was turned on), but when i turn autofire, nothing happens except that normal fire buttons aren't working any more. I tried to measure all the resistors, they are all fine, capacitor also gives "normal" value (13uf not 10, but that's ok). All the traces seems fine, i even looked on other QS2T that works great, what pins on that switch supposed to be soldered together, and it is the same as on this good one. Did You had any similar problem, so perhaps You know what could be the problem?

Thanks in advance

 

Your thanks may be a little premature.  I wish I could help but I never really had a problem with mine.  Any one of the components could be giving you problems. Anything from the switch to a cold solder joint could be a problem. good luck.

 

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Hi,

to bad, i was hoping maybe You know what could cause the problem. I can't find on the web same problem, that's weird. So, i can only change one by one components, and hoping it will be in first few :)

Thanks anyway

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If this would be helpful to anybody, i have solved the "riddle"!!!! Three transistors were the problem. I tried to change (from working one) capacitors - no luck, then resistors - no luck, than after that i've desolder autofire switch - try to guess - no luck. Last thing i've changed were all three transistors (see picture) - and it worked!!!!!! Yeeeeeeees. Finally, after 4 hours joystick works perfect!!! Hope this would be helpful for other people.

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On 7/29/2022 at 12:14 PM, butjer1010 said:

If this would be helpful to anybody, i have solved the "riddle"!!!! Three transistors were the problem. I tried to change (from working one) capacitors - no luck, then resistors - no luck, than after that i've desolder autofire switch - try to guess - no luck. Last thing i've changed were all three transistors (see picture) - and it worked!!!!!! Yeeeeeeees. Finally, after 4 hours joystick works perfect!!! Hope this would be helpful for other people.

 

Nice work. Out of curiosity, what kind of transistor did you use?  Any chance you made a circuit diagram?

Edited by k-Pack
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6 hours ago, k-Pack said:

Nice work. Out of curiosity, what kind of transistor did you use?  Any chance you made a circuit diagram?

I replace those 3 transistors with the same ones from another QS - S9014 (NPN).

 

When i tought i was finished with all mine QS's, today i replace another cable from another QuickShot 2 Turbo (i have 6 of them) who sometimes had problem with white wire (UP), but when i replaced old cable with new one, guess what? Auto fire isn't working either on this one. Ok, when i switch to autofire it is same like pressing the fire button - joystick "shoots" once and stops. I have ordered new S9014 from store, and when i receive them, i will try to change one by one to see if it's the same problem on this joystick too?!? I hope this will be the last problem with my collection of QS2 Turbos :)

IMAG4086.jpg

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Yes, i received the 9014, and after replacement, everything works perfect. So, i think the main problems with autofire on QS 2 Turbo are always transistors.

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