Jump to content
  • entries
    46
  • comments
    9
  • views
    47,821

CX22 Trackball mouse


k-Pack

2,329 views

blog-0170669001471306852.jpg

Found an article within a PDF of the Status Newsletter on archive.org. It explained how to rewire a CX-22 Trackball for use as an ST-mouse for an A8-Diamond GOS based system or the ST. I have been using a mouse from Best Electronics (model CBM1) for quite some time and should have a backup. I made the modifications to my CX-22 as explained in the article and it worked the first time. Diamond has been configured to use STMOUSE2.DRV for the mouse driver and worked just as well with the modified trackball.

 

Arnold, Blake, "Trackball to Mouse", Status Newsletter v7i4, 1988, Page 13-14.

https://archive.org/details/Status_Atari_newsletter_1988-v7i4

 

The article is well written and contains all the information you'll need. I took pictures as I made the modifications in case I wanted to revert back to the trackball and to explain how I made them.

 

The next six photos are of the track ball before modifications.

 

blogentry-37655-0-54454400-1471306492_thumb.jpg

Remove 4 screws.

 

blogentry-37655-0-65407700-1471306493_thumb.jpg

Notice the posts to the north and south of ball. The top has pins that are inserted in these and they are friction fit. Care should be taken so that these pins are not broken while pulling the top off.

 

blogentry-37655-0-55108100-1471306494_thumb.jpg

Wiring on Left side of unit

 

blogentry-37655-0-50330300-1471306495_thumb.jpg

Wiring Right side trigger.

 

blogentry-37655-0-67949900-1471306496_thumb.jpg

Ball removed.

 

blogentry-37655-0-66077700-1471306497_thumb.jpg

Separated parts. The wiring could be unplugged without damage and was put aside for safe keeping.

 

Making the Mods.

 

Since the case was apart, it was placed in the dishwasher for cleaning. The chips are all socketed , so they were removed and the pins were cleaned, then reinserted. The LM339 was set aside until after the soldering on the board was completed.

 

When you look at the photos don't use the wire colors for reference. I happen to have a couple of old cords out of a Sega(?) or was it a Genesis( ?) joystick. (been a long time). I know the cords had 9 pin plugs and 9 wires. Both Blake and I recommend mapping the wire colors to the pins before you start soldering.

 

blogentry-37655-0-77483900-1471306499_thumb.jpg

I made the connections on the bottom of the board. I also reminded myself several times were the #1 pin of the chip was as the board was flipped over. This allowed the wires to be run safely under the board.

 

blogentry-37655-0-73599000-1471306500_thumb.jpg

The board was put back into place and the LM 339 chip reinserted.

 

blogentry-37655-0-36831600-1471306541_thumb.jpg

Holes were drilled through the button boards for the wires. Wires were then soldered directly to the boards. I've never had much luck with those push on connector thingies.

 

blogentry-37655-0-37834100-1471306542_thumb.jpg

Right button.

 

blogentry-37655-0-35650200-1471306543_thumb.jpg

The 5volt and ground wires were connected using the female ends of a couple of jumper wires. This way I didn't have to solder the wires directly to the power pins. Its an option I had sitting in my Arduino kit.

 

blogentry-37655-0-49977500-1471306544_thumb.jpg

The ball is in place and the wiring doesn't look like it will interfere with the rotational sensors. Time to put the top back and tighten the last 4 screws.

 

The TEST

 

The 130XE was booted up with Diamond and the Best Electronic's ST Mouse as usual. The mouse was unplugged and the trackball plugged in. The pointer moved as would be expected and the system responded to the left button presses, although sometimes rather sluggish. I can't remember ever having to use the right mouse button for Diamond GOS so it wasn't tested. (I'm not getting out the ST, so am assuming the right button will work.)

 

While I had the trackball apart I considered replacing the spring caps with micro switches. I didn't want to take the time to figure out if there was enough room for a micro switch and put it off for another time. In use not every button click was registered and if I were going to make the trackball my mouse of choice this would have to be fixed.

 

  • Like 2

2 Comments


Recommended Comments

I have found that the switches in this model Trak-Ball are very tarnished underneath the dome. The top can look like it is brand new, but entirely under the dome the copper on the board will be usually near black.

Isn't there something about 2 different metals touching that's bad?

 

Both my CX22 had problem buttons, and removing the friction fit part will usually crack one side, so direct soldering is needed.

I can't remember if the clear part was still sticky enough to put back together, or if I used fresh packing tape.

 

The buttons are different/better in the CX80, but I never opened those up. Both CX80's were new and sealed.

Link to comment
Guest
Add a comment...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...