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Yet you are talking about stuff you were not here for. You have no idea. I do, I got ripped off. So maybe don't talk about things that happened when you were not here???? We were here, some of us got duped by Jeff. Others have seen the many threads about his scams. He has taken a lot of money off of people and delivered very little(SOMETIMES NOTHING). In the beginning, a lot of us tried to support Jeff. He refuses to listen, lies, insults people when he is called out, knowingly releases broken/unfinished games, and takes peoples money without fulfilling orders. SHAMEFUL! It is a broken record. He has shown many times we will not change. These are all facts. No sense in debating it cuz it happened.

But jeff is a fellow dev. The rest of you none devs are sub-human and don't get to speak on any matters, bro.

So there is an update on this I got the full Jaguar and CD plus all the power supplies and cables necessary except for one thing... the CD lid is all fucked up. It will close if I work it but there is definitely something wrong with the cd tray lid top. The CD unit is all dusted up too I think I have a project here.

Take into account Jeff has no permission from me to sell one of my ports, and that the port in question isn't finished, has no sound, runs badly and cannot be completed. Jeff, care to explain that little nugget away?

A few little updates for A.R.T.I. Since the last demo there have been a lot of changes and updates to the game engine and a new demo build is with the testing group. If everything goes ok, this will likely be the final public demo. Notable changes : Collisions improved on Egypt spike walls to be accurate. Two new traps added. They start to appear towards the end of the Aztec levels and into the Egypt levels. Laser code - you can no longer shoot enemies through walls, you have to destroy the wall first. Laser code - beasties on the other side of the screen should no longer randomly die if not struck by a laser (bug fixed - happier beasties). Dynamite can be used on any screen, not just screens with a wall (Safeties are off!). Snakes can no longer be killed when "hiding" or not visible (happier snakes). Lots and lots of code optimisations (lots) Egypt Fuse flicker, fixed to use correct colours. Dynamite code completely rewritten - dynamite is now more efficient when exploding and dynamite now kills beasties and walls, and beasties through walls. Bonus score code refined to be a little more generous with regard to remaining dynamite. The Kraken has been released... Jetpack SFX now sounds more jett-ish. Further update soon!

Didn't you say you were leaving???? Jeff has had many negative run-ins with members, long before you arrived, departed and now, I guess, re-arrived. You have not been here for all the problems. Blindly sticking up for a "friend" doesn't make you a good friend. Look at the facts. BTW, you have a weird "developer complex". Get some help for that.

Just received my batch of PCBs from JLCPCB and soldered it up...works great! Thanks @electrotrains

Let’s not confuse @Jagman for @Jag_Mag. One is a respectable longtime member of the Jag scene, and the other is kind of a douchebag.

Hi All, The X-Wing ACE Demo has had an upgrade. - 33% faster frame rate - Engine sound effects - 30Hz Interlace mode for the Moviecart kernel. As before, press select to change between the X-Wing and Tie Fighter model. The left difficulty switch changes between MovieCart and 16Wide mode. The joystick steers your ship and fires. This demo should work on any Atari 6 switch, 4 switch or JR 2600 console. It also works on the 7800. It runs on the PlusCart, but can also be run on the UnoCart with Unified firmware installed. XWING_3D_DEMO_50HZ_v2.ACE XWING_3D_DEMO_60HZ_v2.ACE

I just got a real Robotron. Happy to have it here... But it's not really mine. On medium term loan. Still, it's a dream come true to have this thing around. I just did a search and it looks like about a $2000 item, but prices vary wildly on vintage games as I'm sure everyone here knows.

Let's just remember the good times guys...........🤷‍♂️🙄😁Truly a man of his word. 😬

It happened to me. I had to hound Jeff for months to get the games. He would go MIA, and when I finally threatened to do a paypal claim, he finally shipped "most" of the order. I never did get the Tshirt. I may have actually used the shirt, the games are awful. The boxes were printed on copy paper and the inserts were SNES inserts. Half the games were missing manuals. It was a mess. It was NEVER fixed, Jeff just went MIA again, and I gave up. So, I do get to talk about this stuff cuz I got ripped off by Jeff.

#2 in the house!

Complete, but not in the best of condition.

Whew! Fixed my issue with the Stella 6.6 on my Retron 77.

There was no "best chance" for the Amico. It was ill conceived from the start and there is no scenario where it was going to work out. If they had delivered exactly what they said they were going to at the height of the pandemic it would have failed spectacularly. The "best case" for them was simply waiting until after they released something to fail like the Ouya or the Atari VCS. We all know they never even got that far, but this idea that if they had just spent their money more wisely, pushed a machine out the door, or said the right things in the press everything would be fine is asinine. The core issue is not fundraising, manufacturing issues, unwise spending, the pandemic, Tommy saying dumb things in the media, or anything else. The core issue is there was never, ever going to be a significant market for this device. Intellivision is not a brand that matters and the concept of the Amico itself was a dumb idea regardless of branding or who came up with it. The Amico was not going to exist in a vacuum. The casual market, the family market, the retro market, the hardcore market... all of these markets are already more than adequately addressed by Nintendo, Xbox, Playstation, PCs, phones, tablets, etc.

Certainly, it's worth mentioning that the price will take into account three factors: components, time-consuming assembly, and of course the R&D process associated with Intellectual Property. Let's spark our imagination... For instance, let it be.... $59 - BASIC, and $89 - PRO ... however, these are not the final prices.

If I was to hazard a guess it would be that Jeff is communicating directly with people outside of his ‘website’ and offering to sell them pirated games. Who knows what else he has sold? We can only speculate.

Short update regarding the product specification: HAVO will consist of two boards. One will be mounted in the computer, and the other will be a daughter board plugged into the first board. In this way, it will be possible to upgrade to the next version of the board without desoldering the entire assembly from the main Atari board. Two modules will be available for HAVO: one basic/budget (classic) and the other advanced (pro). The PRO version will include very fast converters, capable of full-frame image processing, so that demos containing fast scrolls are also adequately represented. The PRO version will also have a post-processing module, switchable from the Atari level, which will allow operation in several modes: off, with enabled PAL Blending, with enabled NTSC Artifacting for Atari 400/800, with enabled NTSC Artifacting for Atari XL/XE. Both boards will have special circuits that eliminate noise from the Atari as well as secondary noise from the cables to the TV/monitor (voltage regulators, filters, and galvanic isolation). The boards will include audio mixers (GTIA, SIO, EXT AUDIO, COVOX + STEREO POKEY) and conversion to digital form, which will go into the HDMI port.

Appreciate all that ignore these status updates, THANKS. 👍😎

Just finished 18 holes of Mean 18 and shot an 85.

To be fair it was packed very well, with several layers of bubble wrap around the computer, and crumpled paper around that. The two carts and the PSU which BTW was one of those small switchers from 8-Bit Classics were sitting underneath the computer along with the mylar. Most of that stuff is very light, not at all like the original factory supplied PSU so I think the OP really did try to do a good job packing it for shipment, and it wasn't really going all that far. And without knowing the back story on how the mylar came to the OP, I just thought it odd how it got shipped to me and obviously it was damaged when I got it, hence the reason I even brought it up. As I mentioned when it comes to shipping stuff like this I would have treated it the same way I do for photos, and sandwiched it between two stiff over size pieces of cardboard before placing it in the shipping box. Of course I had to learn this from experience same as everyone else, and made a few mistakes in my early years when shipping things to customers back when I was doing the eBay thing.

Id like to know where he actually bought these games from. I don't see Starquake on their store and why would he call him Jeff and not Wave 1?

Cool, please provide the info to confirm your friend is scum.

Actually, it's "programming well" that's hard; it's easy to make a program that doesn't work, for example.

"where they take samples of voice and mold them together" That's going to be Tommy excuse for all his lies caught on video.

This months games in the NEW Intellivision HSC Workshop are Happy Trails and 4-TRIS. A BONUS game will be added as well. Please feel free to stop by and add whatever knowledge you can to the Workshop. This ISN'T a competition. It's a strategy building group designed to get everyone involved to be better at the games listed. It's a collaborative effort. 👍 Hope to see you there.... Cheers 🍺

I decided to pull an old graphical hack that I had lying around out of the dustbin, and now I present to you: The Dig-Dug Graphical Improvement ROM. (Now close enough to finished for me to share it.) This hack brings the sprites closer to their arcade counterpart, while only introducing ~ 4-5 graphical errors! Some screenshots -- Just a little something because I haven't really seen any romhacks for this one. Dig-Dug - Graphical Improvements.bin -Thatlocalpessimist

Just had a look at your site, you might want to add a diode across the relay coil in the diagram "Figure 4. 7407 Interface (1 gate)." back EMF from the relay coil when it de-energises can easily kill the output transistor in the 7407. Cathode to the +5V rail Anode to the gate output.

The way to tell is to open it up and to see the motherboard revision. Here is a guide to the board revisions: Flashback 2 PC Board Revisions Really important if you are looking to do the cartridge modification

Hello guys We took a group picture, as always: (click to enlarge) As always, you'll find the picture with the names on my meetings page. (Which might take a bit longer this year since I won't have internet at home until around next Wednesday. Yes, they screwed up!) Sincerely Mathy

NTSC Artifacting / PAL Blending - post-production modules that will be available at the end of 2023. NTSC Artifacting (and PAL Bleding) will be added later this year. However, it will be added externally as part of the Micro HDMI output board project (HAVO), which will include a post-production module during conversion RGB to digital signal. Regardless of the set VBXE core, they will offer the following options: no post-processing, PAL Blending, NTSC Artifacting Mode 1 (400/800), NTSC Artifacting Mode 2 (XL/XE). A similar post-production module solution will be featured in the upcoming new version of the Medusa upscaler designed by AcidMaker of Lotharek Team. (My yellow posts are general comments on the thread).

Yup. An option button would have been much more useful IMO. (the aspect ratio could have been just one of the options you could access...) The console switches are just generic inputs that can be read by the processor. It's the game that determines their function. And as time passed, and their original function wasn't needed anymore (on screen menus were used instead of difficulty and select switches, and B&W TVs were less common) they were often reused for other purposes, including pausing the game. So they need to stay generic inputs that the emulated game can read. If they're removed or repurposed for something else, you'll break compatibility. --------------------------- E.g. When the Flashback 2 plug'n'play console was released, it had 5 big push buttons on the front panel (the retro gaming scene was much smaller back then, and the product had to also appeal kids too) The TV Type switch wasn't one of them, as B&W TVs were a thing of the past, and customers would probably have just considered it weird. But Curt Vendel knew that the switch might have been needed (especially if the cartridge mod was performed), so he still included it on the back of the console. With the Flashback 3 AtGames took over Curt Vendel's company to design the console and they switched to an emulator based device. They mostly copied the case design, including the big colored switches, but they had the brilliant idea to remove the TV Type switch ("who needs that?"). The result was that "Secret Quest", a game that was included in the Flashback 3 console was unplayable, as it requires the TV Type switch for gameplay (it's used to access the weapon selection screen and to display the code for the current level so that you don't have to start from the beginning each time). Modifying the case and PCB is expensive, and in subsequent versions they just added a key-combo to simulate the TV-Type switch, which is less than ideal but at least allowed the game to be played. With the Flashback X, after the success of retro-consoles like the NES classic, they finally redesigned the case to more faithfully mimic the original 2600 and.... WTF! ------------------------------ So, long story short (too late!), to get good compatibility you need all the console switches just like a real console, and a separate way to access the emulator settings. If only there was a place where people who are interested about these old consoles reunite and discuss and share knowledge about them, and where companies could ask for advice and suggestions before putting these devices into production...🙄

They are all definitely NTSC only so far. They work fine on the 2600+ but they will display in PAL60 with wrong colors (or no colors, if the scanline count is odd/unstable) on a real PAL 2600 console. I'd be extremely surprised if Atari would release PAL cartridges, honestly. And multiregion Atari 2600 games cannot exist. The max you can do is to have a game that is switchable between PAL and NTSC using, for example, a console switch(*), but that is to be handled by the game code. Hacking existing/classic games is difficult and requires skills and it's easy to introduce bugs in the process. Another way is just to make every cartridge a "2in1" multicart with both versions selectable by an external switch. Easier to do, but it's not gonna happen (and it would be a cheap solution), IMO. Stella supports NTSC, PAL and PAL60 (and SECAM😄), and the HDMI output works with all region TVs. So there doesn't need to be a specific European version of the 2600+. And I bet there isn't. Stella autodetects the format of the game by looking at the framerate (which on a 2600 is coded in the game itself, as the vertical synchronization is under software control) and defaults to NTSC if the game is 60Hz and to PAL if it's 50Hz. So NTSC and PAL cartridges will work fine on a 2600+. (if they can be dumped, that is) The problem is with PAL60. PAL60 cannot be autodetected reliably and Stella will default to NTSC (So you'll play the game with wrong colors, because of the different palette between PAL and NTSC TIAs). On the PC version of Stella, for existing games there are properties in the internal database. For new games it is possible to - include a property file with the rom itself (they can be in a zip archive together with the rom and you don't need to unpack it to play the game) - Include the string "PAL60", "PAL-60" and variants in the rom filename. In case the above fails, after starting the game you just hit "TAB", change the format to PAL60 yourself, and the emulator will remember that settings every time you play that game. On the 2600+, the hash of the game might change in some cases (if the cartridge has ram, for example), which will prevent from recognizing the (existing) game in the internal database. And by dumping the cart, assuming that the dump succeed, you don't get a filename (nor a property file, of course). So you need a way to access the emulator settings, and it doesn't seem that they included a button to bring up a menu on the console (it would ruin the illusion 😉) For the 7800 side, I guess you also need a way to tell the emulator that you want to emulate a PAL machine in order to play PAL 7800 cartridges. So, again, you'd need a way to access the settings. Or maybe there's a way to tell if a cart is PAL or NTSC from the dump? (I have very limited knowledge/experience with the 7800). ---------------------------------- (*) By including a timer in the cartridge, you can measure the clock frequency of the console and tell if it's PAL and NTSC. This is done in some ARM games (the ARM has its own clock independent from the 2600 one) to automatically switch to the correct format. Of course that doesn't work with a dumper.

Thought I'd post a Status Update.

I was going to ignore this thread but Never Mind...

You don't need to be a master chef to know when someone is serving crap for dinner, brah!

Nah that can be faked bro,these are people that fake stuff and cause trouble,I have no problem passing id and you can check for yourself.

Your not one of mine 100% I keep track of id numbers.I'm part of wave1 you can send me id number and I'll pass it on to Punisher.

No way I'm leaving now,if members want to get this low I'm staying.I don't have a weird dev complex,the others have it.Getting my threads locked,threatening the community to not complete projects if they support myself or Jeff,attacking Jeff in vcs threads,making BS claims they didn't recieve carts.Look at all that Machine!!!...and I'm the problem.

Humans are prone to errors,Jeff will sort orders.

It's 2023. A device that still plays 2600 games poorly isn't worth the effort to pick one up off the ground for free.

No bro he hasn't,there is over 1300 members all talking together,if he was scammer they would all know it.Errors happen,they already happened with myself.

@FarmerPotato Did you see the page [http://chain.3dgrafika.cz/preh/]? Right down the bottom of that page, the PREH ME5A 70060-017 might be a replacement if you swap over the metal bracket? And that switch appears to be available from Radwell. Or if you used a panel mount / solder lug version, if you mounted it upside down, is there room to run wires from the lugs down to the PCB?

Digging through my pile of bulk-purchased 7800s and I found 2 that work perfectly. $16 a piece. Guess who's going to be playing the heck out of them tonight! Got some unboxing videos to do too!!!

Got a new toy: