bohoki

well you can do it the hard and cheap way or the expensive and easy way if you can solder a 15 pin female plug and a male 9 pin plug is around 50cents each and you just follow the pin to pin connections below and just use any old wire you have lying around like an eithernet cable or a cut up wall wart cord if you cant solder i would suggest breakout boards and neo geo extension cable i am in no way affiliated with these sellers the links are for illustrative purposes only https://www.ebay.com/itm/DB15-Female-D-SUB-2-Row-15-Pin-Plug-Breakout-Terminal-Solderless-Connector-SI-ps/313154202725 https://www.ebay.com/itm/DB9-Male-D-Sub-9-Pin-Plug-Breakout-Terminals-Solderless-Nut-Type-Connector-PLUEW/203056263360 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-High-Quality-10FT-Controller-Extension-cable-for-NEO-GEO-AES-USA-SELLER/381701927963 you can also buy some pushbuttons for start pause and reset although i never use pause and reset i would suggest just wiring one to start and the others to # and * https://www.ebay.com/itm/3PCS-Micro-Lockless-Momentary-On-Off-Push-Button-12V-5A-Switch-Tact-Assortment/382864366387 so you would connect one leg of the switch to 15 pin units start =4 and 7,#= 8 and 1,*= 8 and 3 pause=4 and 6 reset= 4 and 5 wico connections all are in 15 pin to 9pin 9-7 10-8 11-6 (12-1) never needed but was there in case wico used its own trackball in the past future i suggest not connecting it 13-5 14-4 15-3 i could tell you to get a matrix keypad but i dont have the time to explain its pinouts

my adapter is really just the 5200 faq "ibm gameport to 5200 adapter" with 2 tweaks 1) i add a start button 2) i connect gameport pins 4 and 5 together cause i ran into a weird joystick that used the other ground wire once i also attempt to make them as cheaply as is humanly possible and pass the savings onto you

neat if you want to use that throttle on your solderless extensiob just swap the pin 13 to pin 6 (on the controller end just unplug the wire that goes to pin 6 and put it in the pin 13 socket )cause throttle is just y axis on joy2 but ive often found throttles with springs (which is dumb) that spring back to down its only real use to me is the pole position shifter or a locked thrott with river raid or dreadnaught i'm surptised you havent came up with some kind of lily tomlin phone operator board with a bunch of patch cords to select which button abcd is button one which axis is which heck you could even screw with teh matrix and make the frogger buttons in a more wasd configuratrion

desert falcon i guess? ooh indy 500 i want a top view racer night driver would be good as long as it doesnt look like a blue wheelchair driving between yellow crayons i've wanted a pinball but not david midnigt madness pinball construction set looking thing

i cant speak to console mods because i do not want to make things worse but to controllers there seems to be 4 things that can go wrong \ #1 the harness fails in some way often from tightly winding as per atari instructions or slamming it in a drawer there are 14 wires in that cable and if any one breaks you are done either a row will go out on the keypad a direction stops working or a button doesnt work #2 the flex circuit if a trace breaks you are done often it will be just one button on one side but still its game over for a "working controller" also the tin can get oxidied and turn a dark grey and not conduct so well combined with the carbon dots you may have a meg of resistance you can clean them with a pencil eraser i prefer using the white softer type but a new pink can do good just polish them up and test with a penny or paperclip to make sure its not a circuit path failure. on one controller i put little vaseline on each of the contacts and so far so good but who knows what its doing to the dots so eh its probably doing no good #3 the potentiometers they can get old and become jammed or jittery and good luck finding that type good news is im my experience it is rare for a pot to fail in the controller sometimes its just a missaligned pot arm and you can reset them to the right position with missile command knowing center is 6 oclock and 9 oclock #4 the carbon dots they can dry out or become gooey if they get gooey you are done get a new sheet of buttons if they are dry you can do litte skidmarks on a piece of paper with them and they often will conduct again

halfpipe was always a pain bmx is super easy once you learn to keep your bike right on the top edge of the trail bmx is uniqe on the lynx well almost unique

the only one that comes to mind is ghost manor it selects a girl or boy

the adapter is a 2600 unit so it would work with everything ,hopefully it will work with your 5200 realize you need to use 2600 controllers and be careful hitting the switches while 5200 is on because it can loose connection if your slot is slightly dirty or loose

neat i'll put it on my mental inventory of working gamepads the only one i knew that had an analog thumbstick was the interact makopad aka pc powerpad pro

i rigged a chain of stuff everything but my 2600 has auto boxes so it goes 2600,5200,nes,sega,playstation,n64 i also have one of those av to coax boxes in line too to attach plug and play games yea my old magnetbox 25" tv only has coax in

a diagram is in the atariage 5200 faq

i'm baffled as to what you have. what is this device you have that accepts a 9 pin keypad? what is its standard?

i dont understand what you are trying to do maybe you could slowly explain cause i am dumb if you are trying to make a wireless keypad sorry i got nothing

you can make an adapter to use a atari keypad but in order to use every column you need to disconnect a resistor inside and a keypad does not have enough buttons

the 15 to 9 pin you showed i believe is for a specific joystick that has ibm and apple compatability the 15 to 9 pin you showed i believe is for a specific joystick that has ibm and apple compatability the reson i belive this is because the apple joystick uses pins 1,2,5 on the top row an atari used 1,2,3,4 and not 5

the only one i am familiar with is an infrared one made by rockfire and i can not recommend it a pc to 5200 only works because they are very simple variable resistance and push button switches a nes/famicom controller is a serial device

i was referring to the cheap $3 ones like here their cord is like 2 foot long but they generally work https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wired-6-Button-Pad-Gamepad-Controller-For-Mega-Drive-Megadrive-Sega-MD-Genesis/111834519151

neat in case anyone buys one of those chinese 6 button controllers they do not come with a mode button but there are contacts on the board to add a mode pushbutton

i always figure if i have it its not rare maybe tax avoiders?

when pin 12 is used with the x,y the game switches to trackball mode you can notice it in the analog games instead of snapping back to center the cursor will stay where you leave it try experimenting i used a switch alternate between using pin 9 and pin 12 on an arcade joystick i made

i'm only familair with 5 superbreakout,kaboom,missilecommand,starwars,gorf i'm not aware of any of the 5200 arcade conversion games that originally used an analog control in the cabinet

i hope someone would make the pc to 5200 adapter i dont hate making them its just so tiring stripping all those wires each unit i have to strip 32 times and that is not counting the 4 cable shell strips i have no say on what people make i basically just use the 5200 faq schematic with a couple little tweaks aka the start button and grounding gamepad pins both 4 and 5 and i was selling them for like $10 i had to raise prices due to shipping costs it costs $2.68 first class a dollar store padded envelope is like 25 cents the 3 plugs are like 50 cents each and the capacitors are like 15 cents

if i didn't already have one i wouldn't start now i consider the 5200 a kind of gen 2.5 system along with the colecovision instead of the 5200 maybe try a colecovision for another system with a weird controller or a sega master system the gun games are great

if i were you i would just buy an ibm joystick to usb adaper and use it on your pc it seems like a neat driving controller windows has better calibration ability of course i am assuming your 5200 works fine with the original controller and a standard pc joystick with the adapter actually what i would do is take it apart and put a 10k resistor in series with the potentiometers to see if that gives it enough resistance

does it have any trim controls?