Jump to content

Radfoo

Members
  • Posts

    163
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Radfoo

  1. I emailed Slicer the English section of the Lynx 2 manual yesterday. Unfortunatly I could not find the original Lynx manual, i'll look again later this week. I did discover that there are two versions of the Lynx 2 manual. I have one that is region specific (english) and another that is multi language. The region specific version is the earlier one, probably from my first Lynx 2 I bought around 1991/92.
  2. I should have them both somewhere (in English). I'll see if I can find them and then scan them. It should not be a big job too, I seem to remember they were just a few pages long.
  3. Hi, I was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the backlight? On the original Lynx it looks like its soldered in place, which could mak ethings awkward. If so, do you know where they can be pruchased? Perhaps with newer technology now, a lower energy back light could be found? (just an idea). Radfoo
  4. Unfortunatly, I beleive they are all the same (some even worse).
  5. Does an Amiga emulator work with the developer software then? If so, do you know where this software could be obtained without the A2000? I always assumed it needed a custom zorro card to work. Radfoo
  6. You could still buy Atari Juniors in the UK in 1990, I remember as Boots where still selling them when I bought a NES.
  7. If you still have the original text, I am sure people would be interested to read it!
  8. Sounds cool, do you still have any Lynx stuff? Do you have any un-released documentation?
  9. That sounds quite good, i'll send an email. Thanks
  10. Hi, Does anyone know where I could buy a Lynx EPROM cartridge? If I did find one, what kind of EPROM would it need? Thanks
  11. Radfoo

    eprom programmer

    Cool, thanks. I'll take a look at them.
  12. Radfoo

    eprom programmer

    Anyone know were a correct EPROM programmer can be purchased?
  13. Looks quite good, is it playable? Does anyone know why development stopped?
  14. Radfoo

    Atari 2600 PAL A/V

    Although the mod will work fine in all three, my instructions are for the Junior so this should make things easier for you. Let me know how you get along Radfoo
  15. Radfoo

    Atari 2600 PAL A/V

    Added a comparison picture on my web site between a tuner and the composite mod. http://www.itstoast.co.uk/atari/.
  16. Radfoo

    Atari 2600 PAL A/V

    Looks interesting, i'll perhaps have a go myself.
  17. Radfoo

    Atari 2600 PAL A/V

    I am not aware of any other PAL mods (other than mine) I would be interested to know of any other (correct colour) PAL mods exist? Radfoo
  18. I have just added the following to www.itstoast.co./atari/ **************************** Over the last couple of days I have been investigating a problem some people have had with my A/V mod. People have been reporting that some of the colours are not showing through. This problem usualy occurs on newer TV's, it also appears that these TV's do not like or require the connection to pin 20 of the stella chip. So if you are having this problem, just disconect the wire to line 20. I will alter the a/v mod instructions tomorrow. **************************** [ 03-27-2002: Message edited by: Radfoo ]
  19. quote: Originally posted by liveinabin: No, the choices I have with the pots I've got are:- stable but low contrast (ie. grey background, washed out colour but nice even pixels) or unstable with high contrast (large distortion on anything that contrasts with the background, ie. a vertical line like the trees in Pitfall will appear zig-zagged) sorry, I should have explained it a bit better Try the following in order, 1. I suggest you go over the instructions again and just double check that everything is connected correctly and there are no short circuits. 2.If everything is correct, I suggest you get a stable picture again. Then try adjusting the Atari's onboard colour control (nr the on/off button). Only make slight adjustments and only change whilst the Atari is turned off. 3.Then try a bigger pot on line 7 as discussed before. 4.If there is still a problem i'll need to investigate further, maybe you could try another TV, though I tried 4 and they all looked good. Hope this helps. [ 03-26-2002: Message edited by: Radfoo ]
  20. quote: Originally posted by liveinabin: Ah right, but I used a variable resistor (1k pot). So a 2 or 3k Pot will be better? I mean, would it give me the contrast while stopping all the white pixels freaking out? I suggest you go back to your stable but high contrast settings and then add higher resistance to pin 7. A 3k pot might be a good idea. This should sort out the contrast. Hope this helps.
  21. quote: Originally posted by liveinabin: Right, I did it! It worked a treat - thanks very much. Only slight problem I get is one of contrast, either I have the black coming through a mid grey and everything on the screen is stable, or as a near black and everything seems to horizontally distort a bit. Its not a major problem (though I might alter one of those pots to make it accessible as a 'contrast' control from the console rear) Thanks very much for your help, my All-black 2600 looks (and sounds)the business Right, I have re-read your above message and I think uderstand the problem. What I suggest you try is as larger resistor on line 7. The higher the resistance the darker grey/black colours will become. 0ohm = light grey 2k/3k = black
  22. quote: Originally posted by liveinabin: By the way,I found that Pitfall and Centipede are great 'control' carts for setting the pots. My contrast problem is playing hell with Pole Positions title screen Cool, I am pleased you have had some success. Not sure about the contrast problem though, do you mean it just looks too light? What does they grey part of the track look like in Pole Position or is it just the title screen thats the problem? Does Pitfall and centipede look good?
  23. quote: Originally posted by liveinabin: aanyway HELP!!!!! just one more bit of advice, got the potentiometers - which look like so:- pin at top, dial in middle, 2 pins at bottom (the ones you recommended radfoo), what solders to what? I'm figuring the top pin is either just to hold it on the board but further to that, I don't know - please help Take a look at this picture from the web site http://www.itstoast.co.uk/atari/gfx/pot.gif. I think that should answer your questions.
  24. quote: Originally posted by atarinvader: I'm using a 6 switcher, so its all different. [ 03-24-2002: Message edited by: atarinvader ] I've not studied my 6 switcher, i'll take a look. [ 03-24-2002: Message edited by: Radfoo ]
  25. quote: Originally posted by liveinabin: Ah right, so maybe its a good idea to ditch the resistor and use 3x1k pots instead of 2 yeah? Where did you stick all this on the circuit? Oh yea, and did you get rid of the big silver rf box? (sorry to ask so many questions - i don't know one end of a pot from the other - just one more) The croma and audio conns, did you solder them from the pins at the outer edge of the circuit, or the other end of the resistors? That is a lot of questions, but no problem: 3x1k pots would work fine. The bits are small so you can put them half way down the wires, just wrap them in insulating tape when your done. No, you can leave the RF box but it won't work any more. The yellow arrows point exactly to the solder point of Chroma and Audio.
×
×
  • Create New...