guus.assmann

Hello, This is what I have. And it's ok, as I once made a working PCB using these schematics. BR/ Guus Assmann BLACK_B.pdf CONNECT.pdf

Hello, As Hias has written, all data is available, without any restrictions. So if anyone wants to try a production run, all data is there. Sonny did a smart move and tried a small amount to start with. From my point of view, it was not a small badge of units. I have had 150 PCB´s produced and got 147 or so working units. And some prototypes as well, also 10 or so. The prototypes were fully `handmade` as in no parts pre-assembled. The production run had the CPLD and Eeprom socket assembled and some of the other SMD parts. I had to resolder 8 or so CPLD's to get them working. And manually assembled a lot of other parts, like the Ram-chip and may SMD-resistors. Programming the CPLD's was fun as well, just like the Eeproms and testing the units. Oh, the display units and cabeling was a big job as well. Sourcing all the parts, I remember it was a pain to get the displays and rotary encoders. It was quite a job, but also a lot of satisfaction to get that many units produced and sold. Also, the international co-operation was very good to experience. BR/ Guus Assmann

Hello all, This week, I've sold a 1050 drive on E-Bay and was very disappointed by the price it fetched. (It had a Speedy1050 inside and modded regulators) Totally unrealistic and much too low a price. And now I have a very unique drive available, but don't want to sell it on E-Bay. The drive contains a prototype of a MegaSpeedy that's completely functional. It just doesn't have all features of the final MegaSpeedy, and lacks one or maybe 2 emulations. But it does have the rotary encoder, the display and 2 extra switches for preset emulations. And a reset key of course. Also, it has both liniar regulators replaced by switching ones and a drive selection switch in the front. Pictures are available, but I don´t like to post those. (Filesize) Please inform me of interest and what price you have in mind. May also be done by PM of course. Considering the value of the MegaSpeedy as such, I would like to fetch at least 75 Euro. (Excluding shipment) You may of course try to convince me that I have unrealistic expectations...... BR/ Guus Assmann

If you push hard enough........ Also, the board goes in place of the 6507 processor. However, the Eprom also needs to be removed. This is obvious to the "expert" but I thought I should mention it.... BR/ Guus

Yes, it can be a lot more simple. The 74LS139 has GND on pin 8 and VCC on pin 16. So just insert the board and make sure the chrystal on the 1050 is not in the way. Then, check for continuity between pin 8 of the 74LS139 and anothet TTL chip on the 1050 board. Or just follow the trace from the 74LS139 pin 8 to the pin header, wher pin 2 should be GND. Alternatively, follow the trace from pin 16 of the 74LS139 to pin 40 of the pin header. Pin 28 of both Ram and Eprom are also VCC. And pin 14 of Ram and Eprom are GND. Looking at the picture of the bottom side, the "fat" trace is GND and goes to pin 2. This means that this side of the board needs to face to the front of the 1050. So in the picture, the top side of the PCB (looking at the bottom of the PCB :-) ) should face to the front of the 1050. The side where it reads "components" in the copper trace, should face to the back of the 1050. BR/ Guus

Hello, The track display or led's will not light in all emulation modes. Changing this, requires changes in the firmware of the emulation. Of course this is possible, but not so easy and also, not without risk. The CPLD is programmed in such a way, that it behaves the same as the original hardware. So to the firmware, it looks like it's in the original unit. This means, to add display or led, also the CPLD has to be changed, so the hardware addresses are available for the firmware. And this adds to the complexity of the operation. The rotary encoder is only "known" to the CPLD and firmware of the MegaSpeedy during the boot-fase. Changing that may also need a change in the CPLD. Same goes for the IIC-bus on the unit. The hardware for that is only available during boot. For more details, contact Hias. BR/ Guus Assmann

Hello Macsonny, Did you already try to set the MegaSpeedy to the Mega Speedy mode and then boot with the disk-latch open? It gets you a menu and the possibility to copy disk really fast. ABBUC uses this to copy the magazine on disk. And maybe a bit obsolete, but with a very small interface the turbo 1050 has an interface for a centronics printer. All of this is in the user manual..... BR/ Guus

Hello, Coundn't see the video. However, the drive does go to track zero, then steps in and steps out again. This is to test the track-zero sensor. So maybe you should try to give a format-command and see if the display shows that corectly. BR/ Guus

My reason for asking about the language / keyboards is, that I think there are not many variations in the Falcon keyboards. And of course the OS having settings for language. (That I've never tested). My second quesion was also of serious nature. What would be the price for a Falcon right now. How much is someone willing to (or capable of) pay for a Falcon? BR/ Guus

Hello macsonny, I've already written this about assembling PCB's. In my opinion (and experience) a hot air gun is only suitable for removing parts. It may heat up the parts too much ! If you wany to hot air solder parts, you also need the correct kind of solder. As in solder paste, a mix of solder and flux. And for a CPLD, you'll need a stencil to properly apply the solder to the pads. Check on YouTube to see "drag soldering" or similar. And for the 1206 smd and SOT parts, a pair of pliers and a small tip soldering iron will do just fine. The only difficult part is the CPLD with 25 pins on each side. And I've done a dozen or so by hand, especially for the proto-types. Use a good liquid flux! Ordering larger quantaties will not be very price effective. My order quantaty never got above 100 pieces od the unique parts. And SMD resistors are not too expensive anyway. Not much price difference between 100 and 1000 pieces. One tip for soldering the socket for the Eeprom. It has a plastic bottom piece that is in the way for hand soldering. Just cut it out and you can reach all metal pins. When using a hot air gun, this piece will melt anyway. You"ll see what I mean once the parts arrive. BR/ Guus

Then there's one simple question: How much are you willing to pay for it? And what's a USA version? (Language is switchable)

Hallo macsonny, Just checked one of my stockpiles. I happen to have 37 pieces SA36-11SRWA displays. And I have 40 pieces ST39SF040. and 77 pieces 74HC125M (SMD of course) These parts were left over (my loss for production speed). You can buy them from me if you like, at the same price I payed for them when I bought them. (Have to look what it was...) And of course, only buy them if you manage to get working PCB's. (Reccommend you start with 5 proto types, as most chineese PCB manufacturers offer series of 5 - JLCPCB do) BR/ Guus

Hello macsonny, If need be, I'm willing and capable to program the flash-roms with a working image. As for the CPLD's, make sure you can program those. I used an old PC that still had a printer port. I did program the CPLD before I put all other components on the PCB. It only needs a power supply and the decoupling capacitors. If program and verify of this chip works, it's mounted ok. And if not, you'll save a lot of time and money by not completing the ones that fail. In my case, about 10% failed first time, even though a pro-company solderd the parts. I had to manually resolder them to get them working. Was not too hard, just add flux and drag-solder a droplet of solder.... If that didn't work, add flux again and press-solder every individual pin, making sure not to create a short between two pins... (If that happens, just heat the solder and "bump" the pcb, so the solder will fall away.) Good luck with the job at hand. Just remember, the displays and the rotary encoder were also a problem on the 2nd batch. Not sure, but I might have some displays left. I'll have a look and let you know. BR/ Guus

Hello all, It's not so much keeping fingers crossed for the data. I'm happy to share that. But it's "can I buy the CPLD and CPU?" The rest of the parts should be less of a problem. And a WDC 65C02 should still be available, though a bit more expensive. And next, is someone capable of soldering those CPLD's, they'r quite small and have 144 pins. BR/ Guus Assmann

@ClausB Maybe you're right about the RC time. But did you also consider the coil with 10uH ? That's quite a resistance for higher frequencies.... @Beeblebrox Yes, shipment costs an arm and a leg. Hope for reasonable customs duties and VAT. Advantage of buying this part from Mouser is that you're sure to get a genuine quality part. You'll see when you unpack it. The 6520 has always been a kind of weak chip, prone to failure. Hence I always use a 68B21 to replace it and these very rarely fail. Also did this when I was repairing the computers for Atari, when I was employed by them in NL.

Hello, Just have a look at Mouser. Last time I checked, they still had a WD65C21 and that's a very good and fast chip, rated for 14Mhz. I've tested one in an Atari and in other applications. Works like a charm. BR/ Guus

In my drives, I replaced the regulators years ago. Saves a lot of energy, thus heat. And I got the adjustable ones, they work ok. BR/ Guus

If those resistors are 33Ohm or so, then it's a patch to reduce "signal ringing" from the DRAM´s during access and refresh. Of course they should be ok, but that´s an easy test. Replacing the MMU with a Gal16V8 is no problem. (in most machines, not so if the Freddy-chip is present, like in a 65XE or 130XE) The 6520 may be replaced by a 68B21. The 6821 can stand a bit more "abuse" and is less likely to fail. BR/ Guus

Hello Tillek, Can you post a picture of the Eprom, where the type number etc. is visable? Then it should be possible to identify the manufacturer. It may also be that the programmer has a generic mode to read any Eprom of the correct size. At least my ones do. (HiLo programmers) As for hot glue, why not heat it again? (Yeah I know, next time...) If you use a paint stripper, with distance and care, it will work..... BR/ Guus

If memory serves right, there's one more difference between Sally and a 6502. The R/W pin is on another location. Just jumper the NC pin and the RW and it should work. Of cource holding the Halt pin high is also needed. BR/ Guus

Hello Tillek, The board is complete and supposedly worked. To the best of my knowledge, the Eproms have an adapted version of Tos 2.06. I have checked the CPU and that's ok in another board. The Eproms not being covered is usually no problem. It takes many days of full sunshine exposure to get them ereased. BR/ Guus

Hello Tillek, I have that board as well, but it doesn't work. Are you able and willing to read the Eproms and sent me the content? That way I can verify if maybe the Eproms are the problem and I can fix the board. Thanks in advance. BR/ Guus

There's an ACC that has a VT100 terminal emulator. Unfortunately, I cannot find it right now. I've used it a lot in the past... BR/ Guus

Hello, If there's still room, please consider adding a terminal emulator. This is what I use the Atari for quite often. It should offer the possibility to upload and download a file in such a manor that it mimics keyboard entry. This makes it possible to use the Atari as a terminal for other Single Board Computers and load/save programs for those. BR/ Guus