omf

cyan below on top picture doesnt go anywhere normal pad dodgey part

thought it would be nice to attempt a descent board for the coleco rather than that shabby thing that was produced i dont know what circuitry risky has inside as that would mean damaging the label, it just triggers demo mode if 13 is not connected to ground which prevents exiting level 1, this does not happen without intervention if you have thrown your shield away if its dirty or gets in the way of various mods. i bring up the system rom because there is the option to add 32 pin roms to american units with a small mod. the super action controller has net lines that dont go anywhere on the on the numeric pad too, also there is something iffy with the normal controller in 3d preview but that could be a kicad bug?

i have been looking at the schematics / pcb files in the zip, and i wanted to give a lettle feedback for the colecovision drawings. the eprom space seems to be only 28 pins which is the same as the main EU board. it would be nice to allow 32 pin chips. these are easier to come by if someone wanted to get a board made also, pin 13 on the cartridge connector is only connected to the shielding contacting screw hole, this causes issues with the risky rick game. it would be far better if these two points were connected to ground, this allows risky rick to function properly there appear to be a few pcd drawings that are incomplete with unrouted nets. good work in accumulating / drawing all those files you have shared ?

what printer do you have? i may be able to give this a go

doom runs from ram its only the assets (wad) that needs to be in rom so wad swapping shouldnt be that hard, swapping thw wad out in the doom rom is as easy as finding iwad i think it is and replacing that and everything after with something else in a hex editor if you want to look at this happening right now with homebrew you need to look as this regularly, there's only a few at the moment but i expect this is only because they have ended https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?item=312618172288&hash=item48c97ebf80%3Ag%3Azr0AAOSwtNlc0FOe&_ssn=*retroriginals*&_ipg=200&rt=nc

u35 is the system bios, it will never get hot. i suppose you could replace it just to be sure i would change your attention to the small chips in front of the cartridge connector. i have had to replace one or two of these in the past in relation to red screen look at the tops very closely and see if any of them are damaged

yes the blue streaks. i am sure i removed / opened / brassowed all contacts / applied dielectric grease / reassembled / resoldered the power switch im pretty sure the power supply is ok as i only have one legit power supply and using it on other machines the video output is fine saying this i do have anotehr non coleco one (its the replacement one with the din plug on, i could wire that up and check i guess. the components in that thing would be newer so would rule out the PSU, i will investigate this further.

as i mentioned my odd video issues previously in this thread on my French machine here are some pictures of what i am getting. if anyone has any insight i would be grateful

i think that rom used there was provided by me when i was trying to fix my french machine, i have got that thing working but still have some graphics issues with it which are not related to video ram it has white vertical ghosting lines visible on screen :/ i am not sure if the pal machine is a UK as i was given it, but i would think so because the person who i got it from is also from the UK

looks like the French and normal pal bios are identical after checking my dumps i even dumped my pal again to be sure

functionality exists to save the scores, however it creator chose hot to implement it along with other needy things. you best take it up with him

i endured Ecco until the very end, upon completing it i was somewhat grateful. one of the later levels is very hard travelling down what can only be described at a water tube in the sky, if you swam out of these tubes you fell to your death

im not saying it didnt work ok for you but it was tested at e-jagfest 2017 and selecting one of the mode (cant remember wich it was now, maybe co-op) it failed amost instanty this was with using a jaglink. after some fannying about with it it was abondoned as a lost cause and we went back to something more enjoyable that worked properly

you mean what belboz and vimaster were working on years ago before they jumped ship?

Don't suppose you have any schematics or other useful information for the French SECAM model colecovision? Information on that is rather rare unfortunately. i have been trying to fix the video output on mine but i have not found the worn out component as yet. the machine works but after a short time i get white ghosting on the screen so must be a old on its last legs component. i have changed all the chips apart from the z80, i have also changed the video transistors still the ghosting is present. the arduino shield idea looks like an interesting project and ill be following.

the first thing you need to do is get this working sounds like the issue is elseware unlesss the chip is completely fried and internally shorted between ground and +5, but if that was the case i would think that nothing else would work (the activity readings)

that wire was only to test easily at it has crocodil clips on each end. the perminant solution will be better (probably connect pin 13 to pin 29 whuch is propper groubd on the cartridge connector which should be the shortest wire and give the less interferance i think he means the track width you are basically connecting a thin wire to a fat trace

you could do it like that yes but i would isolate the LED from WAIT with a double pole double throw switch. have one side of the switch for WAIT and one side for the led connecting to +5 via a 220 or 330 ohm resistor, you could use a higher value depending on the LED brightness you want to achieve, you will have to experiment on the brightness you want to use

I have been doing some tinkering with Ikrananka's guide above You don’t even need the shield, just solder a wire to the pad that is left floating to any ground point on the circuit board The below is my test 'patch' I have tested the above on the following hardware: NTSC rev A with ram removed and F18A - can get to level 2 SECAM rev B with 5v ram - can get to level 2 PAL rev D with normal new video ram and system ram with RF output - can get to level 2 all these failed to get to level two before adding the green patch wire I do have another pal machine but it does not have a VDP in it currently so am unable to test but I expect the same result will be experienced What i cannot understand is if this (pin 13) is critical and needs to be grounded, why was the circuit board not designed for it to actually be connected to ground, seems like laziness in my opinion, then if you have either thrown out the shielding or it has got dirty and has iffy connection it gives you issues which is not normally apparent. I’m sure some users that use colecovisions do not have electronic maintenance expertise

i have recently come into possession with a pal machine with both bad system ram and a bad video ram chip. i was able to find pretty much direct replacements for each chip 2114 system rams 4116 video rams i even managed to find some good ram chips that i pulled from other systems i put 5volt ram in in case the chips were not the correct speed. the mainboard is revision d after replacing the bad chips with all the different variants i still cannot get past level one!

pin 7 of SN76489 which is sound out from the sound chip

are you sure? https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=42pin+dip&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=42pin+dip+socket&_sacat=0 seems easy enough to me

Ahh, you must mean one of these:

pong from the pong / computerspace boxset didnt work strip poker did not work either moon patrol has already been tested do you have any of those you could test?