ulao

Yeah the Bridge does require a way to get data to it. Interestingly it uses LLAPI, a tech that is open source. So any adapter could be used with the bridge if that protocol was used. Bliss-Box's first adapter was aimed at adapting any controller to USB, but most of the user base clear was after matching controller to game or maybe a mix and match kind of thing. There are many alternative firmware's allowing it to work on other console and that seem to spin up interest to do non USB consoles.

I have only a few controllers but I also have control issues.

For anyone looking to do this. Bliss-Box released its Bridge. The Bridge Connects a 4-play in single mode or Gamer-Pro and sends controller data to a console. The Bliss-Box Gamer-Pro and 4-Play are USB devices that are intended for a USB host. However in the same way the BlisSTer works, all Bliss-Box devices can speak a universal protocol over two wires. The communication can take place over the USB lines without disturbing USB hardware. When you connect the Bliss-Box Bridge to a Gamer-Pro or 4-Play, it begins sending controller data at a fast rate of 500us per request. That is twice as fast as the fastest USB poll-rate. The Bridge takes this data and then speaks to the console. The console now controls the polling rate (typically 16ms) and while the console waits for the next poll, the Bliss-Box gathers the payload.Meaning you can use any controller you want, on any console. So far 7 cables have been made but you can make your own if you have the skills. It comes with the USB so that one it ready out of the box. examples: paddles on the switch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMpZM_aIm24 Analog stick on the intellivision https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJeOz1Dzmds pippin on saturn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KelYLpxnJTk&t=9s wii draw on mario paint https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KelYLpxnJTk&t=9s

so crazy thing here, by literally "poking" around I found putting my finger on r33 and its neighbor fixed the issue. So I figured it's a bad capacitor or lack of a steady voltage. knowing all resisters do have some capacitance I played with a few values and found anything from 1k-10k works. Since the RCA mod required a 6k resister (r33) to be removed, I just used it, and great picture. Kinda of scary, but it does work and had been running for an hour.

I picked up a 5200 from a goodwill that I had to mod for RCA. It seems to play games and works ok but the color is very washed out. I played with the choroa settings a bit but it does not seem to help much. Anyone know what components and chips might cause this. I have replaced the 4050 hex buffer chip, that didnt get it.

oh here we go. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234753102859?hash=item36a860140b:g:Lz4AAOSwTy1c9rdL&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Gi0o%2F3FaR5ZnzZoUqg1f%2Bp92h%2Bp6p43HqbJ3gGYFgdW34Fw4A4ay7f%2B26HMBwxFO8CAGUmsM7ptz67M2nIZvPo5IIiD89ZP%2FXl0yLJnJD43po7cs8QZKrPQVK%2BprPZYvJ5XNpt0YQ2S1Z0Ks31yWn5Cia4TWRSWK3HuZ%2FvZp%2FQFmM76o8l92GpPG195eTKDDOWWml5MVv60Cb41fngoOEtp8JxJm2ct1nT8pnpIGaBjbSy%2F%2FJ8ZcA3JZpCfVrcnqu%2B3FaB3ufHQ%2FL2IgDtoailyCIM7PrkF%2FwSnMO2LnFb2|tkp%3ABk9SR97rvrCbYQ

isn't that the same as the controller? no much like it out there bit the other port ( controller calibration) is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/394340501722?hash=item5bd08688da:g:kSMAAOSwCptjeAof&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4BUO5ikMGHSyHtSq%2FkM3a6XkWTvIO%2BKT6mF%2FPRQEYyTsc9VtPTNNPQB%2BSIt54%2FWk%2FdLhCmEcijcQRKa2uNKiUwxnHtbQ%2FGlagCgfHLexhDDjPP37ABCmq8oIdx%2FZCptu31aqJhmiuYMIzBflqb0foeQnTiIliiw36FMBuNVIJBu0h70PPjCXffL9%2BJNnJVuXLlYTmszG0vIwlBDgu6P4hAoXFJmgPSk1RRHJemgYwi6Io%2B9lS8YxqsfrCfOB6h8UxyNhasnjVS1XjLF9Cf9leDtn65xmUNpNxKGiS1Dzk30e|tkp%3ABFBM6IbfrJth

Does anyone know the specs on the chroma pot? I tried to clean it but it didn't really help enough. So I removed it and There is no way to open it without out destroying it. Looks like one side the resistance goes up and the other side it goes down. But it is in such bad sahape I can not tell.

yeah the donor was a working console. Thx for the info, I will see what I can do.

yeah, well not sure it is related but I wanted to be sure I included all of that. The power rf mod is very common and I know that didnt cause my issue, but I 12 volt accident cause me to do all kinds of work to the console. I swapped out all of the IC's from a donor console, so they are all changed out. Now the chips were not the same but both an atari 5200. My guess is they changed chips number from time to time in production? ram does sound like a potential cause for this... Good call.

Not sure if this is the game or the unit. http://spawnlinux.ddns.net/DoCz/down_s/temp/pac_crazy.mp4 In the video you can see the player going thru ghosts. It does some other strange things as well, not all on the video. The unit did undergo some messing about, I had to swap nearly every chip in it. Those chips did differ a bit. Details on some of what I had to do https://www.avrfreaks.net/forum/looking-help-atari-5200-gone-bad I one have this one game and a flash cart. Sadly the flash cart boot to diag mode. The author of the flash cart is at a lose. Does anyone have a suggestion here?

just a follow up, the internal trace ( the trace inside the pcb) burned up. I made a bridge connection. The video worked but was black and white, adjusting the pot (lower right) fixed the B&W issue. Unit full working

Ok the CD4013 was bad. There were two pins that should have 12 volts when switched on and one pin would not show 12 volts. I happened to have an extra CD4013 so that part is replaced but the damage is elsewhere .

never mind that, I was comparing with the power on. To be equal I need to compare with the power off.

Ok this transister middle leg is not showing anything on the questionable board but shows 12v on the good board. Its the one on the lower right of the image above (bottom transister)