ulao

Yeah the Bridge does require a way to get data to it. Interestingly it uses LLAPI, a tech that is open source. So any adapter could be used with the bridge if that protocol was used. Bliss-Box's first adapter was aimed at adapting any controller to USB, but most of the user base clear was after matching controller to game or maybe a mix and match kind of thing. There are many alternative firmware's allowing it to work on other console and that seem to spin up interest to do non USB consoles.

I have only a few controllers but I also have control issues.

For anyone looking to do this. Bliss-Box released its Bridge. The Bridge Connects a 4-play in single mode or Gamer-Pro and sends controller data to a console. The Bliss-Box Gamer-Pro and 4-Play are USB devices that are intended for a USB host. However in the same way the BlisSTer works, all Bliss-Box devices can speak a universal protocol over two wires. The communication can take place over the USB lines without disturbing USB hardware. When you connect the Bliss-Box Bridge to a Gamer-Pro or 4-Play, it begins sending controller data at a fast rate of 500us per request. That is twice as fast as the fastest USB poll-rate. The Bridge takes this data and then speaks to the console. The console now controls the polling rate (typically 16ms) and while the console waits for the next poll, the Bliss-Box gathers the payload.Meaning you can use any controller you want, on any console. So far 7 cables have been made but you can make your own if you have the skills. It comes with the USB so that one it ready out of the box. examples: paddles on the switch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMpZM_aIm24 Analog stick on the intellivision https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJeOz1Dzmds pippin on saturn https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KelYLpxnJTk&t=9s wii draw on mario paint https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KelYLpxnJTk&t=9s

so crazy thing here, by literally "poking" around I found putting my finger on r33 and its neighbor fixed the issue. So I figured it's a bad capacitor or lack of a steady voltage. knowing all resisters do have some capacitance I played with a few values and found anything from 1k-10k works. Since the RCA mod required a 6k resister (r33) to be removed, I just used it, and great picture. Kinda of scary, but it does work and had been running for an hour.

I picked up a 5200 from a goodwill that I had to mod for RCA. It seems to play games and works ok but the color is very washed out. I played with the choroa settings a bit but it does not seem to help much. Anyone know what components and chips might cause this. I have replaced the 4050 hex buffer chip, that didnt get it.

oh here we go. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234753102859?hash=item36a860140b:g:Lz4AAOSwTy1c9rdL&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4Gi0o%2F3FaR5ZnzZoUqg1f%2Bp92h%2Bp6p43HqbJ3gGYFgdW34Fw4A4ay7f%2B26HMBwxFO8CAGUmsM7ptz67M2nIZvPo5IIiD89ZP%2FXl0yLJnJD43po7cs8QZKrPQVK%2BprPZYvJ5XNpt0YQ2S1Z0Ks31yWn5Cia4TWRSWK3HuZ%2FvZp%2FQFmM76o8l92GpPG195eTKDDOWWml5MVv60Cb41fngoOEtp8JxJm2ct1nT8pnpIGaBjbSy%2F%2FJ8ZcA3JZpCfVrcnqu%2B3FaB3ufHQ%2FL2IgDtoailyCIM7PrkF%2FwSnMO2LnFb2|tkp%3ABk9SR97rvrCbYQ

isn't that the same as the controller? no much like it out there bit the other port ( controller calibration) is: https://www.ebay.com/itm/394340501722?hash=item5bd08688da:g:kSMAAOSwCptjeAof&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4BUO5ikMGHSyHtSq%2FkM3a6XkWTvIO%2BKT6mF%2FPRQEYyTsc9VtPTNNPQB%2BSIt54%2FWk%2FdLhCmEcijcQRKa2uNKiUwxnHtbQ%2FGlagCgfHLexhDDjPP37ABCmq8oIdx%2FZCptu31aqJhmiuYMIzBflqb0foeQnTiIliiw36FMBuNVIJBu0h70PPjCXffL9%2BJNnJVuXLlYTmszG0vIwlBDgu6P4hAoXFJmgPSk1RRHJemgYwi6Io%2B9lS8YxqsfrCfOB6h8UxyNhasnjVS1XjLF9Cf9leDtn65xmUNpNxKGiS1Dzk30e|tkp%3ABFBM6IbfrJth

Does anyone know the specs on the chroma pot? I tried to clean it but it didn't really help enough. So I removed it and There is no way to open it without out destroying it. Looks like one side the resistance goes up and the other side it goes down. But it is in such bad sahape I can not tell.

yeah the donor was a working console. Thx for the info, I will see what I can do.

yeah, well not sure it is related but I wanted to be sure I included all of that. The power rf mod is very common and I know that didnt cause my issue, but I 12 volt accident cause me to do all kinds of work to the console. I swapped out all of the IC's from a donor console, so they are all changed out. Now the chips were not the same but both an atari 5200. My guess is they changed chips number from time to time in production? ram does sound like a potential cause for this... Good call.

Not sure if this is the game or the unit. http://spawnlinux.ddns.net/DoCz/down_s/temp/pac_crazy.mp4 In the video you can see the player going thru ghosts. It does some other strange things as well, not all on the video. The unit did undergo some messing about, I had to swap nearly every chip in it. Those chips did differ a bit. Details on some of what I had to do https://www.avrfreaks.net/forum/looking-help-atari-5200-gone-bad I one have this one game and a flash cart. Sadly the flash cart boot to diag mode. The author of the flash cart is at a lose. Does anyone have a suggestion here?

just a follow up, the internal trace ( the trace inside the pcb) burned up. I made a bridge connection. The video worked but was black and white, adjusting the pot (lower right) fixed the B&W issue. Unit full working

Ok the CD4013 was bad. There were two pins that should have 12 volts when switched on and one pin would not show 12 volts. I happened to have an extra CD4013 so that part is replaced but the damage is elsewhere .

never mind that, I was comparing with the power on. To be equal I need to compare with the power off.

Ok this transister middle leg is not showing anything on the questionable board but shows 12v on the good board. Its the one on the lower right of the image above (bottom transister)

Different? No, just a normal mod. Like I mentioned I have done many, I just made the error on this one and I think I messed it up as a result. I have done over 20 of them, I buy 4 ports unwanted from thrift fix them up and mod them. Normally goes well. Helps not to make the wrong connections. No I do not have the modulator power adapter. So if it was back to the original state I'd have no way to power it up. I have no way to know if this was a bad atari but in my experience then tends to all be in working order. Either way I should be able to trace the power on down thru the circuit just looking to any suggestions along the way. attached where I connected the + ~12

I have done a few of these now but I'm human, thus I make errors... I have modded another 4 port atari 5200 to use a side power jack. Instead of connecting the 12v input to the place I should, I mistakenly plugged it in to the 5 volt output used for the AV mod ( where the transister was removed). I'm not able to turn on the unit now that I put the 12 volts in to the correct point and I think I took out a regulator. No LED and no power at that trasnister point. Just a bit unclear were to look. I have two 5200 4 ports side by side so I can make checks, just looking for anyone with more experience here. I left out the detail as I'm thinking someone that does this mod would be best fit but happy to add detail for anyone willing to help. I use this write up https://console5.com/wiki/Atari_5200 "4-Port Switchbox Elimination Modification" Basically making my own power jack.

ok, so maybe another question here, anyone know how this thing works? It looks like it sends encoded signals to the left and right directions. found some info here http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari-CX22-Trakball-Field-Service-Manual.pdf in one of the modes up is direction and down is the motion. ( like wise for left right) not sure what mode this is for but it help what to look for.

I read something rather disturbing. now maybe I'm taking this out of context here but this reads this way to me... No games support the cx22 in trakball mode on the 2600. If this is a true statement, then who at atari was hitting the pipe? you just what, make a trakball mode for the fun of it? OH hey guys look here, I made a trakball mode but no game will ever use it...Surly I'm missing something?

So I have bought 4 Atari console recently. 2600, video was dark but I thought maybe this was how it was. I modded it to composite and it was the same. 7800, very nice video and bright. Modded and was the same 7800 (another) left as rf nice and bright 5200, modded (never tested rf) dark video. So, I sold the 2600 since I have a 7800, and now I'm hoping to fix my 5200 so I can actually see it. I read this. but there were no details given. Most often times ( not always) the silk print remains the same, but no one offered the resister number. So I'm not sure what resister to remove (if that is even the issue) on the 5200. I could have compared schematics... Does anyone have a clue what really makes the image so dark? I would have suspected a leaking cap but it does not look like there are many caps on these boards. Should I use an op-amp and try to boost the voltage closer to 1 volt? Should I put a scope on it and see what the single says?

wow this Verifone SM09001A looks spot on, lots ok them all over ebay too. Power is a bit more but that should be ok. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143497028241?hash=item216916e291:g:AGwAAOSwJAxeF5Ov

Hi all, I have an Atari 5200 that didn't come with the rf unit. My plan was to mod it anyways for RCA and add a power port. I have completed this and was wondering if anyone had a suggestion on what adapter specs to use? I see the OEM adapter is like 9.3 volts and 1.8 amps. I have many 9 volts around ranging from 500mA to 4Amps but nothing of course around 9.3. Was going to use a 9volt 1.5 but wanted to ask for opinions first.

Ok, the author finally had a thought and felt the chip (batch) he used was having issues. He sent a replacement out and that one works like a dream.

yeah at first it as like wanting an old TV in a really bad storm. the RF rca was really bad and I used sandpaper to get it down to metal. didn't take much effort at all. The jack also never really fit well, not sure I can fix that. I could do a RCA mod but was oping to leave this one as it was. I will play with the pot, thx guys.

I'm very shock more info on the net is not available. I have a 7800 that gives a very fussy light RF signal. I'm assuming its a capacitor issue, but I can not find what caps would be responsible for this. Can any one help with the location of the caps for RF?