ulao
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Posts posted by ulao
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If you are asking about atari star raids gakes ( kaey padf ), the GSP does not have a means to do that. the ability in there but it needs to be told what buttons to look at. The Solution above about Bliss-Box offers a way, but the GSP is not supporting it. 5200 game I would assume are the same. Didn;t it have number on the button of the screen?
If you run emulation on the GSP it should have built in mapping, so that would work.
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trying to do some investigation on the input here. Looks like many usb adapter work in game, but few in the menus. Most common game pads do but some really odd balls work. The neogeo mini for examples works in the menus. I guess there is a USB ID approve list?
WaverBoy,
you are limited to the poll rate set by the GSP, the Bliss-Box will suggest 1ms ( lowest USB setting) but it ultimately is up to the OS to decide. My guess is it honers 1ms. In that video he talks about paddles IIRC. For the Bliss-Box the paddles are on the dial and slider of the the USB HID. So my guess is they will not map right, the GSP is more then likely assumes that to be on the X and Y axis of the main or secondary sticks. Just a guess.
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Hi all, not here with full specs but I think if we get a few bright minds in involved here we can make this way cheaper.
I found 2 new approaches.
1) Using the TL866.
First thing I found pretty quickly was that the eeprom burners were pricey. So looking for alternatives I found this
or
https://www.tindie.com/products/easypcb/27c322-27c160-27c800-27c400-tl866-minipro-adapter/
This lets you use the cheaper 40 pin burner.
This thread maybe helpful if there are issue.
https://www.amigalove.com/viewtopic.php?t=763
2) using a arduino.
I'd be shocked if no on thought about this, this was an idea that I was kicking around and just so happens someone did it.
https://www.kernelcrash.com/blog/using-an-arduino-uno-to-program-eproms/2016/04/16/
He didn't make the schematic very clear but looks like its a simple job.
I do have a few uno boards around but will need to get some eeproms.
I wanted to add this, because I can not really tell what it is. Has a 8 pin interface for programming. maybe helpful maybe not
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Hi could I order one for self assembly, and if so what does that save me? I have pro tools and experience, is there any chip programing required?
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did this ever happen? -- never mind I see the order thread now --
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Yeah the Bridge does require a way to get data to it. Interestingly it uses LLAPI, a tech that is open source. So any adapter could be used with the bridge if that protocol was used.
Bliss-Box's first adapter was aimed at adapting any controller to USB, but most of the user base clear was after matching controller to game or maybe a mix and match kind of thing. There are many alternative firmware's allowing it to work on other console and that seem to spin up interest to do non USB consoles.
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I have only a few controllers but I also have control issues.
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For anyone looking to do this. Bliss-Box released its Bridge.
The Bridge Connects a 4-play in single mode or Gamer-Pro and sends controller data to a console. The Bliss-Box Gamer-Pro and 4-Play are USB devices that are intended for a USB host. However in the same way the BlisSTer works, all Bliss-Box devices can speak a universal protocol over two wires. The communication can take place over the USB lines without disturbing USB hardware. When you connect the Bliss-Box Bridge to a Gamer-Pro or 4-Play, it begins sending controller data at a fast rate of 500us per request. That is twice as fast as the fastest USB poll-rate. The Bridge takes this data and then speaks to the console. The console now controls the polling rate (typically 16ms) and while the console waits for the next poll, the Bliss-Box gathers the payload.Meaning you can use any controller you want, on any console.
So far 7 cables have been made but you can make your own if you have the skills. It comes with the USB so that one it ready out of the box.
examples:
paddles on the switch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMpZM_aIm24
Analog stick on the intellivision
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJeOz1Dzmds
pippin on saturn
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KelYLpxnJTk&t=9s
wii draw on mario paint
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KelYLpxnJTk&t=9s -
so crazy thing here, by literally "poking" around I found putting my finger on r33 and its neighbor fixed the issue. So I figured it's a bad capacitor or lack of a steady voltage. knowing all resisters do have some capacitance I played with a few values and found anything from 1k-10k works. Since the RCA mod required a 6k resister (r33) to be removed, I just used it, and great picture. Kinda of scary, but it does work and had been running for an hour.
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I picked up a 5200 from a goodwill that I had to mod for RCA. It seems to play games and works ok but the color is very washed out. I played with the choroa settings a bit but it does not seem to help much. Anyone know what components and chips might cause this. I have replaced the 4050 hex buffer chip, that didnt get it.
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isn't that the same as the controller?
no much like it out there bit the other port ( controller calibration) is:
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Does anyone know the specs on the chroma pot? I tried to clean it but it didn't really help enough. So I removed it and There is no way to open it without out destroying it. Looks like one side the resistance goes up and the other side it goes down. But it is in such bad sahape I can not tell.
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yeah the donor was a working console. Thx for the info, I will see what I can do.
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yeah, well not sure it is related but I wanted to be sure I included all of that. The power rf mod is very common and I know that didnt cause my issue, but I 12 volt accident cause me to do all kinds of work to the console. I swapped out all of the IC's from a donor console, so they are all changed out. Now the chips were not the same but both an atari 5200. My guess is they changed chips number from time to time in production?
ram does sound like a potential cause for this... Good call.
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Not sure if this is the game or the unit.
http://spawnlinux.ddns.net/DoCz/down_s/temp/pac_crazy.mp4
In the video you can see the player going thru ghosts. It does some other strange things as well, not all on the video. The unit did undergo some messing about, I had to swap nearly every chip in it. Those chips did differ a bit. Details on some of what I had to doI one have this one game and a flash cart. Sadly the flash cart boot to diag mode. The author of the flash cart is at a lose.Does anyone have a suggestion here? -
just a follow up, the internal trace ( the trace inside the pcb) burned up. I made a bridge connection. The video worked but was black and white, adjusting the pot (lower right) fixed the B&W issue. Unit full working
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Ok the CD4013 was bad. There were two pins that should have 12 volts when switched on and one pin would not show 12 volts. I happened to have an extra CD4013 so that part is replaced but the damage is elsewhere .
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never mind that, I was comparing with the power on. To be equal I need to compare with the power off.
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Ok this transister middle leg is not showing anything on the questionable board but shows 12v on the good board.
Its the one on the lower right of the image above (bottom transister)
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35 minutes ago, -^CrossBow^- said:
What were you trying to do different compared to how this is normally done? It is one of the easier modifications to do for a console and pretty much a requirement for the 4 port systems.
Different? No, just a normal mod. Like I mentioned I have done many, I just made the error on this one and I think I messed it up as a result. I have done over 20 of them, I buy 4 ports unwanted from thrift fix them up and mod them. Normally goes well. Helps not to make the wrong connections.
QuoteIf you can get it back to semi stock condition, then it would be good to start with seeing if you are able to get both input voltage to the pair of 7805s and if they are putting out any voltage on their output pins.
No I do not have the modulator power adapter. So if it was back to the original state I'd have no way to power it up. I have no way to know if this was a bad atari but in my experience then tends to all be in working order. Either way I should be able to trace the power on down thru the circuit just looking to any suggestions along the way.
attached where I connected the + ~12
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I have done a few of these now but I'm human, thus I make errors... I have modded another 4 port atari 5200 to use a side power jack. Instead of connecting the 12v input to the place I should, I mistakenly plugged it in to the 5 volt output used for the AV mod ( where the transister was removed). I'm not able to turn on the unit now that I put the 12 volts in to the correct point and I think I took out a regulator. No LED and no power at that trasnister point. Just a bit unclear were to look. I have two 5200 4 ports side by side so I can make checks, just looking for anyone with more experience here. I left out the detail as I'm thinking someone that does this mod would be best fit but happy to add detail for anyone willing to help.
I use this write up
https://console5.com/wiki/Atari_5200
"4-Port Switchbox Elimination Modification"
Basically making my own power jack.
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ok, so maybe another question here, anyone know how this thing works? It looks like it sends encoded signals to the left and right directions.
found some info here
http://www.atarimania.com/documents/Atari-CX22-Trakball-Field-Service-Manual.pdf
in one of the modes
up is direction and down is the motion. ( like wise for left right) not sure what mode this is for but it help what to look for.
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I read something rather disturbing.
QuoteHowever the only games in existence on either the 2600 or 7800 that will take advatage of the "true trak-ball" mode are hacks.
now maybe I'm taking this out of context here but this reads this way to me... No games support the cx22 in trakball mode on the 2600.
If this is a true statement, then who at atari was hitting the pipe? you just what, make a trakball mode for the fun of it? OH hey guys look here, I made a trakball mode but no game will ever use it...Surly I'm missing something?
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Projet Bluetooth joysticks on Atari 7800 with ESP32, tested OK.
in Atari 7800
Posted
paddles use Left and Right as buttons, guessing that had something to do with it.