ulao
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Posts posted by ulao
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yeah I ended up taking it out of the console environment to take a more scientific approach. I ave it connected to a Oscilloscope atm, and it seem to be in fully working order. There are no bad connections and I can power it from a 5 volt source. I thought it was a sure symptom when it only traveled left, but not that it flips on my I'm really confused. the 5200 CX52 work fine both on the console, scope, and a USB adapter. The CX52 also works fine in all 3 environments with the exception of the noted horizontal issue. I wonder if the 4013 chip has bad contacts. I'm pretty sure taking that chip our and putting it back in change the directions. Yeah its in the right way
Edit.. yeah that was it, taking the 4013 out and putting it back in some times changes direction. Seem to be in right with all pins in good order.
Edit..Ok, now I can rock it back and forth of the IC is not in all the way, and change the direction. Something has to be wrong with the contacts to that chip.
Edit.. Re-flowed it all, test all chip pins to the socket to the board.
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I have a cx52 that had a number of issues. I managed to fix them all but one. The last issue was I can go left but not right, not knowing much about this I was looking for a replacement opto and saw best electronics had one. They wanted $50 min order for pay pal so I decided to pass.
I found this one but not sure it will fit.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/414/TTRB_S_A0002794730_1-2565183.pdf
would have to grind down the sides.
but now looking more in to this I do not think its the opto, I mean if it moves it moves right? If one LED didnt work, it would not move. so I did some more cleaning and now its goes right but not left. So I played a bit more and it seems random, but once I plug it in, either Right or left will work but only one, and it's not always the same direction.
What the heck could this be?
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well, I just picked up 9 games to hold me over, I shall wait it out then, thx.
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so I did some glancing at the 63 pages, look at the first page, checked out the video, search the net, did this ever become available? It looking amazing... OH, page 62 implies it never did go anywhere... Damn LTO is $600, really?
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yeah I have one, but I'm trying not to use more wires, I may try grabbing power internally tough if there is room in it. I wonder if there is a mode option hidden in the firmware t out composite over HDMI, because I have an HDMI to RCA (not active electronics).
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does anyone know how to get composite out. my fb4 used rca but i replaced it with a fb9. im hoping to add the rca output (mod) not buy an adapter. guessing the ability is in there?
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Ah! looks like it was the 7800 controller as it has two resisters in there for the paddle ports. Looks like the console detects that is disables left and right (old school paddle buttons) intentionally. Makes good sense, I thought the old 2600 would work with the 7800, maybe that changed?
Also read on another thread that there were special modes, and I wired up a switch but they do not work?MENU = UP + DOWN
SELECT = LEFT + RIGHT (or LEFT + RIGHT + DOWN)
REWIND = LEFT + RIGHT + UP
START = UP + DOWN + LEFT
unless maybe that is for the wireless payload only?
Whoa... I just learned there were 9 versions... and apparently I have the 4. Anyone know the capabilities of the physical ports from version to version?
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huh, I also just noticed that u,d,l,r and button all work in the menu. But when the game starts, only u,d, and button work.
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I tried to look up the pinout today and kept seeing this...
- OUT(Orange,Top row, near right)
- SCK(White,Top row, near left)
- DO(Yellow,Top row, center)
- GND(Black,Bottom row, near left
- 5V(Red,Bottom row, near right)
but from my own testing its a standard atari port. I even connected my 7800 controller and it works like it did on the 2600. This is the flash back I have
Were there other versions that have a clock serial data pinout, or do the ports have two modes? There is no way the paddles included (that work just like the old ones) would work on this pinout above.
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So most all of you may know the paddle's use left and right as buttons. To go in to more detail, if you press an atari button on the paddle 1, it moves the stick left. That way the console can what? Distinguish it from the fire button?
so what I'm wondering is how did this work?
How could you use both stick and paddle games with the same button? It is either wired to a fire button or a left / right movement, not both?
To make it even more confusing there was this
Guessing that one had both a fire and paddle button.
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I move about two positions for a half turn of the rotary. It's a lot better then the other emulators but I think the actual hardware does a lot better.
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I have a question of another type but along these lines.
I want to make this rotary work on an emulator but the obvious limiting factor is the poll rate. The goal here is to use a real modded jaguar controller.I got a USB adapter, I made it and it's polling at 1ms (trick using LUFA)
I got the jaguar controller polling under 1ms and the encoder seems to output the left and right buttons as it should.
I can see on my analyzer that it's polling well with in the 1ms limit.
USBLyzer also shows time stamps of 1ms, so the OS is ok with it.
I set up the emulators to use the rotary mode.
but naturally it is slow as h3ll.
So few things,
1) I'm pretty sure the emulator does not poll at 1ms, nor do I think any will and I have no way to know this other then testing with it. tempest is out, looks like 16ms, phoenix seems slow also. Maybe mame will poll fast but the game will be slow.
2) What is the poll rate of the actual hardware, is 1ms even good enough for the game? From my testing the controller will respond every 100us with all 4 lines polled one after the other. I could never reach that speed with USB 2.0.
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So playing with handy here and I see you can use the key board,
that's fun... Also see this enable joystick. Though the joystick does not use anything but directions (analog BOO) and A as joystick button1. Any way to map? Also, not looking to use any of those stupid joy to key things. Hoping I'm just missing something here. If there is no way to map, then is there a way to use a button for B, op1, opt2, and start?
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I must have another version?
f4 changes players
f2 or f3 shows a speed selection.
and after I bit I see I need to hit a numerthat started it thx
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I'm a bit confused here, been using emulators since 1998....I feel pretty dumb right now... How do you start an 800 game?
First thing I tried was setting up joystick and after reading many topics on the subject I gave up and tried the default install and keyboard. I keep reading about f2 begin start but I think that is for 5200. How do you play a game with a 800 rom loaded?
The keyboard mapping says left cntrl but that key does not start a game.
The net says to hit f2 but I think that is for 5200.
Mapping to a joystick button 1 does nothing.
No menu items seem to help.
Some details on line about "eanble function buttons" but I think this was removed in one of the version (I'm on 3.20).From what I remember the 800 is a computer that loads software, so it should be looking for a button. One would guess the button1 would start the game. The game itself ( jumpman) does not say anything about how to start. So what does one do?
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Yeah the map config is saved in the retoarch DB now, it should recognize it, no messing about. Some of the mappings are funky but the newer firmware 3.0 is going to make that all work better and allow alternative mappings in game.
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Hi all, was not sure where to post this and figured this was the best place.
Rolling out the new product Gamer-Pro and also dropping a note about console support and more. The Gamer-Pro is a single player version of the ever growing 4-play adapter. The device is %100 the same but designed to be more compact. In addition there are a few firmware options now available and more to come via the upcoming Bridge adapter.
Current firmware's are:
Switch
Xbox
Ps3
PC/Android/and most other OS's
Available here https://bliss-box.net/downloads/
These firmware allows you to just plug them in to the consoles and use as they were original hardware. The Gamer-Pro is based on usb 1.1 so there are limitations in what it can do. However, the new Bridge (not yet available) will allow a greater reach. It uses a light weight protocol (LLAPI) to communicate to Bliss-Box products. the protocol is open and can be used with other devices. It is currently used on the MiSTer for example. You can follow the Bridge and LLAPI on the blog, https://bliss-box.net/blog/
You can contact us and get more info via the links below.
https://bliss-box.net
https://www.facebook.com/blissboxadapter/
https://twitter.com/blissboxadapter
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I have one of the old x-arcade boards. Does anyone know how the old non usb board was wired? The ps/2 I assume was a ps/2 but what was the serial (adapter cable)?
looks like only pins 5,2,1, and 9 are in use. I think 2 is either ground or +5
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Oh cool, yeah since 2.0 the FW works on RF and most other RetroArch based deals along with all the android stuff. Was curios is all.
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Bliss-box Is planning another KS this month
The main goal for this KS is to create the remaining cables but there are going to be a few surprises this year.
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See above, the new version just over wrote the data that remember the rotary option. It still works.
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I believe the issue was that the new version replaced the save for the option. Although the control config is quite unstable. So disregard the above.
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one port press both fire buttons
in Atari 7800
Posted · Edited by ulao
My issue seems to only be with player 1, the right port (player 2) is ok. I have test a few joystick all give the same results.
So I'm pretty familiar with the 7800 controller port in how it works. I did check pin 5 and 9 and they are not shorted. 5 volts is present pin 7. What else would make both buttons press left and right trigger at once? Guessing there is a pull up resister on the board that is shorted, missing, or damaged?
Looking at this
https://atariage.com/7800/archives/schematics_ntsc/Schematic_7800_NTSC_High.html
I thin maybe its the J3 (p1 p2)?