tep392

There are certain words, some political, that will flag a post for moderation. Your use of the word "trump" triggered it. It has nothing to do with Atari. edit: I just had to approve this post.

To address Glurk's original question, I did a little testing on my AT88 and I think a ribbon cable from the 40pin connector on AT88-S1PD to Centronics 36 connector should work. The pin outs match except for the fault signal on pin2 of the AT88. It's pin 32 on the Centronics connector. The fault signal in the Centronics standard is also active low, but in my testing of the AT88, fault needs to be held low. I get an error 138 if it's high. The cable that Glurk found would ground pin2 since that is the strobe ground on the printer side, so it would likely work. I know this is an old topic, but I just wanted to document my findings.

This post is a bit old, but thought I should document what I have found regarding the 34 pin AT88-S1PD connector. I'll be purchasing an 825 printer and have been investigating how I would connect it the printer interface on my AT88-S1PD. This is the pinout I've been able to put together based on this schematic . I think what I am going to do is build a short cable to go from this 34 pin connector to the 15pin connector on the CX86 cable, which will then plug into the 825 printer. I'll post back later if this actually works. 1 - strobe 2 - fault 3 - d0 4 - gnd 5 - d1 6 - gnd 7 - d2 8 - gnd 9 - d3 10 - gnd 11 - d4 12 - gnd 13 - d5 14 - gnd 15 - d6 16 - gnd 17 - d7 18 19 20 21 - busy 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 - gnd 32 - no pin 33 34

I have reported this so @Albert should see it and be able to help.

Thanks so much!

I’ll take on that challenge if it’s still available? I love fixing stuff and don’t have a Rana.

Any word if the 7800 emulation includes POKEY or Yamaha emulation to support homebrew carts that take advantage of those sound chips?

I replaced the belts in my 410 about 8 years ago and that got it working. I then tried it last year and it started to eat the tape because the take-up reel wasn't turning. One of the internal rollers (plastic wheel with rubber ring) was hard so I had to take some measurements and find a similarly sized rubber ring. I found one on a site that sells parts for stereo cassette decks. Now it's working great! I will probably have to fix it again in another 5 years.

I learned in 8th grade in 1980 on a manual type writer. It was a required class at our school. A couple years later I received an Atari 400 and got a lot of practice typing in games from ANTIC and ANALOG magazines. I was able to touch type pretty well on that flat keyboard until my hands got too big.

It's an option if I think it might not be obvious to them.

Yep, I was quoting a post on page one without reading following posts on page two and my privileges don't prevent it after a topic has been locked. When I realized my mistake I went back and hid the related posts since he should get the benefit of the doubt.

In 2023, the MapRAM hack is a solution in search of a problem.

The carts are all sold. If anyone still wants one, PM me and if I get enough requests, I'll make some more. Thanks! TEP

I have one left for you. Send me a PM with your address and I'll get you a price with shipping.

I still have a few of these left from the last batch. $35 plus shipping. TEP392

This post would be more appropriate in its own topic since you are seeking input for your own project.

The purist might not like this, but since it is already heavily modified I decided to completely replace the old linear PS with a modern switching PS. With the two drives, 5 linear regulators, rectifier and massive transformer, the unit was getting way too hot. Now the peak power usage of the entire unit is about 60W. It still get's warm due to the poor ventilation, but not any worse than a stock Atari drive. Before/After

It looks like the same board as this Hyperdrive . Seems like a bit of a rarity. Nice find!

2 month bump

I'll PM you.

Hi, If your still looking for this I have a working copy with the software CD. I don't know what they might be worth, but I would trade it for a Harmony cart. Perry

I took a look at the 1050 schematic and see that the stepper motor drivers are controlled thru the PIA and don't have any other timing circuits (one shots) like the PC drive. So it seems the 1050 is 100% under software control and no component changes would be needed to take advantage of the fast steppers. Just need to know which parameters to tune in the software. Seek time, track to track, for the Fast Seek TM50's is specified at 6ms vs. 20ms for the standard. Head settling time is 15ms vs. 20ms for the standard.

Now I understand what you’re saying. “Please out the note” confused me. I had a medical procedure yesterday so I’ll blame it on the drugs. A note on the original 180k mpi drive that is busted. There were two parts in the lever mechanism that were broken. A lever that was weak and bent from use. Cracked when I tried to straitened it. And a little tab that holds the disk in had failed from fatigue. Not a great design.

I was searching for a different TM50 related post when I stumbled upon this topic. I just clicked the link @Nezgar provided and it is the same TM50 manual that I was referring to. This page is the schematic for the stepper motor control and two pages prior (page 1 of the motor control schematic) has a table noting the component differences for the various drive versions, including the Fast Seek version.