[AGAIN with the "worst video game ever" crap!!!]

1 hour ago, davyK said:

 

 

I see my prev post has been marked for moderation (it is currently marked has hidden) - that hasn't happened before and I'm not sure why it has happened now. I'm hoping it isn't a sign of Atari weighing in now post buy over.

 

There are certain words, some political, that will flag a post for moderation.  Your use of the word "trump" triggered it. It has nothing to do with Atari. 

edit: I just had to approve this post.

 

[Making a Printer Cable]

To address Glurk's original question, I did a little testing on my AT88 and I think a ribbon cable from the 40pin connector on AT88-S1PD to Centronics 36 connector should work.  The pin outs match except for the fault signal on pin2 of the AT88.  It's pin 32 on the Centronics connector.  The fault signal in the Centronics standard is also active low,  but in my testing of the AT88, fault needs to be held low.  I get an error 138 if it's high.  The cable that Glurk found would ground pin2 since that is the strobe ground on the printer side, so it would likely work.

 

I know this is an old topic, but I just wanted to document my findings.

[Making a Printer Cable]

This post is a bit old, but thought I should document what I have found regarding the 34 pin AT88-S1PD connector.  I'll be purchasing an 825 printer and have been investigating how I would connect it the printer interface on my AT88-S1PD.  This is the pinout I've been able to put together based on this schematic .

 

I think what I am going to do is build a short cable to go from this 34 pin connector to the 15pin connector on the CX86 cable, which will then plug into the 825 printer. I'll post back later if this actually works.

 

1	- strobe	2	- fault
3	- d0	4	- gnd
5	- d1	6	- gnd
7	- d2	8	- gnd
9	- d3	10	- gnd
11	- d4	12	- gnd
13	- d5	14	- gnd
15	- d6	16	- gnd
17	- d7	18
19		20
21	- busy	22
23		24
25		26
27		28
29		30
31	- gnd	32	- no pin
33		34

[Duplicate user account after posting from a different machine]

I have reported this so @Albert should see it and be able to help.

[CLAIMED: Giving away Rana Systems 1000 Drive - Not working]

18 minutes ago, ace1983 said:

It's yours. 🙂

Thanks so much!

[CLAIMED: Giving away Rana Systems 1000 Drive - Not working]

I’ll take on that challenge if it’s still available?  I love fixing stuff and don’t have a Rana. 

[The Atari 2600+ is live for preorders!]

Any word if the 7800 emulation includes POKEY or Yamaha emulation to support homebrew carts that take advantage of those sound chips?

[Is a modified SIO cable possible so that any tape recorder can work with the XL?]

7 hours ago, Beeblebrox said:

Trying to find a working Atari branded A8 cassette deck where any one of the following issues aren't present decades after they were manufactured is tricky:

 

• Belts that have turned to mush/broken
• Broken play/record buttons - found in particularly the 1010's which are prone to broken buttons.
• read/write/eraser heads have given up the ghost or need a damn good clean
• Straight up refuses to power up
• In the case of the 410/1010 - missing PSU

 

 

 

I replaced the belts in my 410 about 8 years ago and that got it working. I then tried it last year and it started to eat the tape because the take-up reel wasn't turning.  One of the internal rollers (plastic wheel with rubber ring) was hard so I had to take some measurements and find a similarly sized rubber ring.  I found one on a site that sells parts for stereo cassette decks.  Now it's working great!  I will probably have to fix it again in another 5 years.  

 

[Where did you learn to type?]

I learned in 8th grade in 1980 on a manual type writer. It was a required class at our school. A couple years later I received an Atari 400 and got a lot of practice typing in games from ANTIC and ANALOG magazines. I was able to touch type pretty well on that flat keyboard until my hands got too big. 

[Off-Topic / Dumping Thread]

3 minutes ago, Asmusr said:

Thank you for the explanation. Would it be reasonable to inform people if you delete their posts? 

It's an option if I think it might not be obvious to them.

[Off-Topic / Dumping Thread]

8 minutes ago, Asmusr said:

Somebody realizing their mistakes, maybe?

Yep, I was quoting a post on page one without reading following posts on page two and my privileges don't prevent it after a topic has been locked.  When I realized my mistake I went back and hid the related posts since he should get the benefit of the doubt.

[MapRAM]

In 2023, the MapRAM hack is a solution in search of a problem.

[FS: Atari 800/XL/XE Pac-man Arcade]

The carts are all sold.  If anyone still wants one, PM me and if I get enough requests, I'll make some more.  Thanks!

TEP

[FS: Atari 800/XL/XE Pac-man Arcade]

58 minutes ago, Gray Defender said:

I'll buy one..

I have one left for you. Send me a PM with your address and I'll get you a price with shipping.

[FS: Atari 800/XL/XE Pac-man Arcade]

I still have a few of these left from the last batch.  $35 plus shipping.

TEP392

 

[New Atari 800XL Revive Machine?]

6 hours ago, Piotr D. Kaczorowski said:

Dear All,

 

I would like to understand what functionality might be attractive to you in the neo-retro version of an Atari computer.

 

I'm interested in this because I am working on various projects myself. At first, it was SAVO XE, SAVO XL. Later, O2/Fixer.

 

Currently, I am working on new boards like SAVO CLASSIC (aka SAVO rev.2), SAVO+, SAVO MAX, and HAVO (micro HDMI version of SAVO supplied with VBXE's RGB signal).

 

Upcoming projects involve stereo cards, BT modules for keyboards and joysticks/pads, and turbo cards (MCU and real WDC based).

 

Best,

Peter

This post would be more appropriate in its own topic since you are seeking input for your own project. 

[LTO Flash! - Intellivision Flash Cartridge Information]

 

[Percom AT88-S1PD]

The purist might not like this, but since it is already heavily modified I decided to completely replace the old linear PS with a modern switching PS. With the two drives, 5 linear regulators, rectifier and massive transformer, the unit was getting way too hot.  Now the peak power usage of the entire unit is about 60W. It still get's warm due to the poor ventilation, but not any worse than a stock Atari drive.  

 

Before/After

[What's the latest Atari related thing(s) you've bought on ebay?]

3 hours ago, Beeblebrox said:

Cool. Perhaps start a thread i te Atari ST forum . Be good to see it running.

 

Yup I was very happy with my 1050. Most of the time they have issues but are stock. This was a good find. 

 

So dy'a reckon it's a Lazer/Happy clone looking at the pics?

It looks like the same board as this Hyperdrive . Seems like a bit of a rarity. Nice find!

[Wanted: Bit 3 Full-view 80]

2 month bump

[Wanted: A26 Maxicart]

I'll PM you.

[Wanted: A26 Maxicart]

Hi, If your still looking for this I have a working copy with the software CD.  I don't know what they might be worth, but I would trade it for a Harmony cart.

 

Perry

[Atari 1050 Roms.]

16 hours ago, tep392 said:

This post is a bit old, but I wanted to let you know what I found about the Tandon fast seek steppers.  I have two Tandon TM50-2FS PC drives.  They both are the Fast Seek version and I just installed them in a Percom drive.  I also moded the Percom ROM parameter that reduced the seek delay.  I've had no problems with it it so far. 

 

One drive has a 211005 stepper and the other is a 210323 like your 1050's.  So your 1050's might be capable of fast seek.  An important detail is the tuning of the one shot's used in the stepper control.  The TM50 service manual is available online and the schematic has details of the differences between the fast seek and standard versions.  It's basically just two caps and a resistor.  I haven't looked at the 1050 schematic, but if it uses a similar driver configuration, then you might be able to identify the equivalent components that would need to be updated.

I took a look at the 1050 schematic and see that the stepper motor drivers are controlled thru the PIA and don't have any other timing circuits (one shots) like the PC drive.  So it seems the 1050 is 100% under software control and no component changes would be needed to take advantage of the fast steppers.  Just need to know which parameters to tune in the software.  Seek time, track to track, for the Fast Seek TM50's is specified at 6ms vs. 20ms for the standard.  Head settling time is 15ms vs. 20ms for the standard.

[Atari 1050 Roms.]

50 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said:

Yup but a note in your drive letting yourself and posterity know your drives are now special they are fast seekers. FS's

Now I understand what you’re saying.  “Please out the note” confused me. I had a medical procedure yesterday so I’ll blame it on the drugs.  
 

A note on the original 180k mpi drive that is busted. There were two parts in the lever mechanism that were broken. A lever that was weak and bent from use. Cracked when I tried to straitened it. And a little tab that holds the disk in had failed from fatigue. Not a great design. 

[Atari 1050 Roms.]

52 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said:

please out the note about the part number and fast seek as well as the fact the rom is modified inside the case in some fashion, to remind yourself and others that follow

I was searching for a different TM50 related post when I stumbled upon this topic.  I just clicked the link @Nezgar provided and it is the same TM50 manual that I was referring to.  This page is the schematic for the stepper motor control and two pages prior (page 1 of the motor control schematic) has a table noting the component differences for the various drive versions, including the Fast Seek version.