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Posts posted by deepfb
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On 2/18/2020 at 3:29 PM, CatPix said:
LEMZ AGAT
I didn't know anything about this Lemz Agat, and now I love it, so thank you very much! There may be a lot of unkown (for me) Russian computers that sure look very good.
I love the design of the Atari XL range, the Amstrad CPC 664 and the TRS-80 Model 100, and there are also plenty of MSX computers very good looking (specially those made by Sony, Panasonic and Toshiba; Toshiba even manufactured a stylish portable PC, the Libretto -"stylish portable PC" is almost an oxymoron xD); but my favourites are these three beauties:
- Matra Alice 90: not only it sports a futuristic french styling comparable to those of some french cars like Citroën DS, GS or CX, but the box & manual were illustrated by french artist Jean Giraud (Moebius). Inside there is a TRS-80 MC-10.

- MGT Sam Coupé: this upgraded ZX Spectrum compatible computer came too late to be successful. But the casing is gorgeous.
- Yashica YC-64: it's not the best MSX for its specs, but I love computers in red (I even prefer the design of the Sharp X1 to that of the X68000
)
And for the consoles, there are lot of cuties out there: the Sony PSX, the Coleco Gemini (plus some of the Telstar series: the original Telstar, Combat!, Arcade...), the Astrocade, the Vectrex, the PC-FX, the PC Engine... But I would choose these three among them:
- Brand Jopac JO7400: a futuristic french design again. It's a Videopac+ compatible system.
- Atari Super Pong: no more words needed

- Philip G7200: I believe it came in three colours (white, black, and dark blue?), marketed by Philips, Radiola & Schneider. I can't decide which one I prefer the most.
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21 minutes ago, carlsson said:
Hm, the documents (Amstrad user manual no less) I linked to on the previous page seems to indicate otherwise, that UK models of the GX-4000 have composite video on the SCART connector while French units only have composite sync? But I never tried in real life, so that might be inaccurate info I gathered.
I checked the CPCWiki forum because I know there are two different models, with or without modulator, and I wasn't sure about it. I don't have a UK model at hand (only Spanish/French), and they said so, that GX4000 only outputs RGB... but you may be right! Since the composite signal is present before the modulator in the UK/RF model, it doesn't make sense not wiring it to the SCART connector.
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6 hours ago, vintagegamecrazy said:
I just ordered a Scart to RCA cable, it looks like it's broadcasting on an RF signal out of the TV's range. Hopefully the AV cable will solve my problems and I can start enjoying this game system for what it is.
I am sorry -it won't work, unless that cable has some electronics inside ?
SCART is a kind of connector that houses several video signals: RGB, Composite and S-video (not Components or high definition though). The problem is that the GX4000 only outputs RGB video throught SCART!. I have double-checked it before writing, and it seems that
a) there is no GX4000 model that provides composite video
b) you have few options -and some of them are commented in the link.
What I would do if I were in America and could not find a TV with SCART inputs: first, I would try to find a monitor with any kind of RGB connectors. An old CGA display would need some kind of adapter, so I would look for an Amiga monitor instead.
Then, if it the RGB option is very expensive or I could not find any, I would go for the composite video. I would take it from the input of the RF modulator, inside the GX4000, as explained in the link. But it is a sub-optimal solution in my opinion, so in the end I would go back to the first option and would try to hack any CRT TV set to inject RGB in some point (it would require extensive electronics knowledge). After some electric shocks, I would reconsider importing a proper RGB monitor at any cost.
My third choice would be to convert the signal for a modern display (HDMI, Components). IMO, this kind of adapters/scalers doesn't do a good job, it's is the worst option, I don't like the result at all ?
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13 hours ago, Bruce Tomlin said:
I love that chip with the two windows that show part of its lead frame. KR18108G72A date code 9306... can't find anything on Google though. Another chip has an 8809 date and Made in CCCP. I wonder if they're 0.1" spacing or metric...
Actually, it is an Intel 8272 FDC, the floppy disc controller. The original nomenclature is КР1810ВГ72А (KR1810VG72A in latin script). It is not so uncommon, it is used on some Russian ZX Spectrum clones too, and you can even purchase it in Amazon ?
Here is a picture of it on an original Aleste board:
The only metric-spacing ICs I have met on this project are the dual memory ICs, 1802ИР1 (1802IR1). It has been a pain to find the model manufactured in DIP plastic package, which are regular spacing (named KP1802IR1).
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PM sent for Heart of Africa.
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A Russian guy showed up on the Amstrad CPC forums some years ago. He claimed he had designed an Amstrad CPC clone for the Russian company he was working for, in the early nineties -a company located in Omsk, in the remote Ural Mountains. But more outstanding, he stated that his Amstrad CPC clone was partially compatible with the MSX standard: it had a dual boot system, and was able to run some patched MSX and MSX2 games, and MSX-DOS too, he said. Almost all the forum users expressed their doubts about the existence of this computer, and some even said the guy was a liar.
The story caught my attention and I spent the following weeks asking some Russian sellers about the computer. I even had a purchase request for the computer translated to Russian, and I emailed it to people I didn't know, people who were selling old electronics stuff and were located in the Omsk area.
Finally I got an email (in Russian) from a seller who said he could provide the computer for USD 350, including shipping costs. Payment in advance. He sent some pictures.
I trusted him, and thus I got an Aleste 520EX:
Later, I managed to ask some questions to the Russian guy, the original designer of the computer. And last year, another Russian seller auctioned on eBay some boards to build a modified Aleste, the Aleste 2018, and I am currently working on it -it's almost finished:
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14 hours ago, spacecadet said:
I watched the video; I guess the parlance of our times is that this is "reballing" the PS3, but to me it's almost like a rebuild. They are taking the console apart, removing the CPU, cleaning up the old, cracked solder and re-mounting it. Note that they have a long section on the site about how other sites claim to do this but actually don't, which is actually more suspicious to me than if they hadn't said that. But if they are really "reballing" and not just "reflowing", then $80 doesn't seem like a terrible price. Watch the video; that is a lot of work.
This is the point. Reballing is the proper repair, just "reflowing" the ICs is a short-term fix that won't last too much.
And that's the reasong why I would not do the trick with the hair dryer and the towel, or the oven and the towel, or the cardboard box and the oven/hair dryer. The PCB of the PS3 is firmly attached to the heat sink by four screws. If you heat the board *without* dismantling the board from the metal chassis (ie, without taking the heat sink apart), the pressure of those four screws will probably bend the board slightly, avoiding further repairs on it ? (once the board gets warped, it's almost impossible to do a proper BGA soldering again).
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Quote
Observing my own pictures a bit closer, it looks like there's some trouble going on near the cartridge connector but it's hard to tell really.
I guess you suspect the areas inside the circles: I would test for continuity around those traces. And I would also clean the cartridge port, where the arrow is pointing. I have a kind of OCD that makes me compulsively extract the dust from cartridges ports, the power connector of every mobile phone I have at hand, etc. I know it is a problem of mine, but it drives me mad just to see it xDDD
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I'll open the console tonight and try to find any corrosion or broken traces/bad capacitors/etc
THIS. I work for a technical support and my job is to fix old consoles. I receive one SNES or Mega Drive (Sega Genesis) per month with no video or black screen, and almost every time the problem is a broken trace or junction node. There are some pictures of these fixes here -sorry, the text is in spanish; but the first images are precisely from a Mega Drive/Genesis II.
Regarding your console, I would first clean the cartridge port -you can extract some dust from it using tweezers or an x-acto knife. If it doesn't solve your problem, I would carefully look for corroded traces & nodes. Good luck!
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Another one for me, if it is still available. Many thanks, and congratulations on your job!
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Hi!
Would you mind sending it outside the US (ie, Madrid, Spain, ZIP Code 28023)? That modded Atari 800 previously owned by Valentino Gonzales catched my eye! (my surname is also González xD, and I am curious what is the switch for)
Thanks
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I already have a Amstrad CPC. I'm looking for a Amstrad PCW and a PC 1640 if you come across some for decent price tho
I take that into account

PC1512 are quite common, PC1640 not so much -and you still have the problem of shipping the monitor.
Regarding the PCW, a friend of mine has created a FPGA mod to use the PCB outside the original casing, connecting it to an USB keyboard & VGA/HDMI TV set. The point is that he managed to produce a colour screen, even when the original system is monochrome! It is noticeable in those games whose graphics were ported from PC, Amstrad CPC or Atari ST. He uses a CGA palette since he likes it, but it is possible to redefine it, and even to use more colours if you patch the games. More info here (sorry, only in Spanish).
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Spring has arrived and it seems everybody is trying to fix their collections. I am trying to make some room, and I have found that I have a lot of duplicate computers & consoles, mainly ZX Spectrum+, some Amstrad CPCs, maybe one or two C64, and a Radiola (Videopac) Jet 47.
This is common hardware in Europe and I would not make big money selling it, so I guess if it is of any interest in NA. I would exchange it for video games, peripherals of hardware I don't already own, for any system up to 32 bits.
The Jet 47 should be the more interesting item of the lot, since it is a rebranded Videopac G7400 (Odyssey^2 with extended graphics). This particular model has been modded to output RGB through SCART (I believe RGB was only available for french models of the console, but I had no need to drill the case or to botch a small proto board -it is everything on the console PCB, it was just lacking the components for the RGB output).
I don't understand why I have two of these, plus the oringinal G7400! :-P
(Actual picture of the console I have for trade; note this is NOT in mint condition, it is more useable than collectable
)Caveat emptor: since these are PAL systems, there may be problems connecting them to NTSC TV sets. Thus, if there is interest, I can modify the ZX Spectrum to output composite video (stock models only output RF signal) -it will be still PAL, but it would be easier to display on a foreign TV or monitor. C64s already output composite, and Amstrad CPCs are RGB.
Feel free to PM with proposals -I insist these items are not very valuable here; I am not looking for anything expensive, just for items that may be not common here. Thanks for yout attention!
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I always name Panic Space as my favourite game for Famicom, since a) it is a cracking game for anytime standards, and b) it is only available on Famicom. It takes elements from games like Deflektor, Gear Works and Sokoban.
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Holey Moley received, with controller included! Thank you very much!

The quality of the label printing and the overlay are great

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I can't check the schematics for the C64 at this moment, but I would say that C107 is not expendable

Regarding the ceramic capacitors, I have seen arcade PCBs with lots of them not just chipped but broken, and they were still working. The problem with the board is that it may have some serious problems if some of the capacitors are in so bad state. But I would go with that board anyway: I would place C107 in its place, and check the main and second voltage on 6581 (SID): you should have +5 on pin 25 and +12v on pin 28. If you find this is correct, then you can move to check the ICs; if it is not, you have to take a further look on the supply side.
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Can you post pictures for C107 and those ceramic capacitors? And I would consider looking over the recap job previously done -some people make a botch of it when recapping, so you may find capacitors placed the other way, and/or faulty solders.
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I would take the Holey Moley repro if it is still available. Thanks!
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Bad VIC-II may produce errors on colour RAM report, but I undestand that you have tried all the VIC-II ICs you have on the first new board, isn't it?
If it is so, I can't decide wich board I would try to repair first, since they both seem quite difficult. I may choose the one that looks cleaner and/or less rusty.
Btw, those ceramic capacitors may be decoupling capacitors. Bad decoupling capacitors are a problem when a lot of them are missing or broken; if it is just one or two, all you need is not having a short between its legs. It can be "open" or chipped, whatever, and it may not work, BUT this should not be a critical problem (the IC which it is decoupling will do its job anyway). Good luck!
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I guess you are looking for the flex flat cable connected to the unit on the left of this picture, isn't it?

There is another different model yet, with the large flex cable, but shorter than the one on the right. If any of these is what you need, please send a PM, I have some I can part with for free. -
I am located in Madrid. Should I order the game from Naber Hood, or from your webpage? (or any other Spanish/European reseller).
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Before installing the new ones, I would measure the supply voltage on the socket. If they are just 4164 or compatible, check the +5V pin.
If most of them were in a frail condition, I guess a) One of them had a shortcut that fried the others, and/or 2) The power side may not me working properly. Good luck with it!

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I would replace all the RAM ICs, yes -but please take into account that 4164 circuit is not a direct replacement for 4116.
Also, C64 boards are very fragile, so I would recommend to *cut* the pins of the ICs, then clean the pads, then socket everything. Trying to unsolder the ICs may would end with some "reconstructive surgery" on some tracks :-/














Which System Do You Have The Most Games For?
in Classic Console Discussion
Posted
A friend of mine and me have been hoarding software since three decades ago. We have amassed this collection, which includes not only games but productivity software, utilities, diskmags, magazine covertapes, etc. Games are the vast majority, though. Our original focus was just on Amstrad CPC software, but I screwed everything up when I started buying C64, Atari and Amiga games, so we derailed from our original goal. Besides, I found a cheap source for Playstation/Xbox games, although we are not too much interested in systems >16 bits. Rules on our collection: every entry on the DB must have been commercially released, only original software, no copies allowed, commercial bootlegs are welcome, a loose game count as an entry in the list even if we don't have the original box and/or manual for it. Hope this serves to give you a different perspective, a view from this side of the Atlantic ?
The summary (system/units/percentage):
APF MP 1000
Compucolor
2
2
0,01
0,01
Eaca Colour Genie
As Vince remakrs about the Commodore 64, if you try to get every piece of software that you find for an 8 bit computer, you will end purchasing lots of variants of the same game, budget re-releases and compilations of games, which makes very difficult to say when the task is finished. Also, our collection is heavily biased on European software for budget and location reasons -we are still trying to find any information on software released in North America for Amstrad CPC/PCW, or about the retailers who sold Solavox/Indescomp/Amstrad hardware & software there.
There is software from at least thirteen different countries (some as tiny as Andorra, some doesn't exist anymore as East Germany), and media goes from microdrives or 3" disks, to loose EPROMs (some word processor and machine code monitors where sold on this format for the CPC side during the eighties). Btw, the final aim is to dump every tape, disk or cartridge, and to scan manuals, inlays and goodies; I feel the task is completed at almost its 30%.