sideburn

I tried this yesterday. It didn’t work. Printer just made noise and put up error as ususal.

Would this be correct syntax: open #2,8,0, “P:” print #2, “hello world” print #2, chr$(13) close #2 ? * i saw this in the BASIC manual too: Device. dependent auxiliary code An 83 in this parameter indicates sideways printing on a printer not sure what that’s for.

Tried this. No luck

Interesting. I may have the manuals. And I do have an old thinkbook with XP on it. Not sure how to send data out the parallel port in xp though.

How do I do this? In BASIC?

How do I do this in BASIC?

Ok I will try that. I hooked my Atari Portfolio up to it and it CAN print from the built in word processor but when you hit print the printer errors then you clear the error and it prints. But when I print from BASIC with LPRINT I get the same exact behavior that the 130xe is doing.

I don’t think it has settings. https://archive.org/details/atari-microprint-parallel-interface-info-card https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/atari-400-800-xl-xe-micro-print-1885117173

Hello all, I have a MicroPrint Parallel interface cable and I’ve connected to a Canon BJC50 bubble jet printer and did an LPRINT “Hello Atari 130XE World” and the printer makes a click sound, computer hangs for a bit and finishes and that’s it. No printing. What’s interesting is I can print to this same printer from my Atari Portfolio. any ideas on what might be the problem and if there’s a way to get it printing? *I’ve heard of Fujinet but do t know much about it and don’t really want to spend the money on that. Was hoping there’s a way to get it working through software.

Yeah I watched his videos. That’s actually what got me thinking about it and wondering how he pulled it off with SIO.

Ahhh! Yes that must have been it. I know he had a modem hooked up and some Atari bbs software and a pretty cool looking ascii art home page and tons of pirated software on the bbs. He had 800xl’s and a 1200xl which I think was brand new or just coming out at the time. And then a bunch of 8” drives. He was a spoiled brat kid and never would answer any of my questions and I always thought it was because he didn’t know the answers and had someone else setting him up. Then one day he took me to this older guys house who had all this equipment so I’m sure that was the main guy.

Sounds good to me

Back in the 80’s one of my friends ran a popular Warez bbs. He was kindof cocky and didn’t disclose much information and also had an older guy on his street that I think was the technical brains around his little operation. I was a pretty tech savvy kid and always wondered how he managed to have an array of 8” floppy drives hooked up to his 800xl’s and 1200xl’s. anyone have any ideas how he had this rig setup? Must have been around ‘83

Hey all, so I transferred folidash.com and folidash.a and folidash.b to my c drive and now when i type dir it just dumps a bunch of garbage and the system beeps at random like the directory structure is corrupt. i tried del *.* so only System is on the disk but no change. Any way I can get this back to normal again? And what might have caused the issue? UPDATE: I did an FDISK 80 and I'm back in business but no idea what caused it and no idea what the default FDISK size should be...?...

This is awesome. I’ve seen all the pofoduino videos on YouTube and subscribed to the channel. What’s the current state of this project?! Where can I find the PCB files, schematics, software etc that I would need to build one? I have a portfolio on the way with a parallel interface and want to dive right into this so I can transfer files to it and send data out to other devices with the NRF 24! Im just hoping this thread and project is still active! If I can’t buy one ready to go or a kit, I am ready to build one! thanks for any info…

Hey guys, I’ve got an odd issue here with a like new 1050 drive. It powers up perfectly. Does the initial drive stepper motor sync. I/o to computer is good. But when I power up the computer the drive spins up and just beeps every few seconds like the disk is bad. but if I wait about 15 minutes all is good and the drive works perfectly. I just re-capped everything and no change. Any ideas? I tried blasting areas with cold air but nothing suspicious yet. the heat sink is getting pretty warm. Not sure if that’s normal and I’m getting 10v a/c off the power supply.

Hey all, So my newly repaired and re-capped vertex has one final issue. Some games, especially demos with rotating shapes have broken lines. Using the Test Cart, every test looks perfect EXCEPT the 3d box in the Deflection test. Any ideas on the case and/or how to fix this? photos attached:

All fixed! The journey is over ? at least for now… thanks for the help

It’s pin 11 on ic305! I poked around with my finger and it started working. It’s a bad socket. I’m swapping it out now.

I just swapped out the sound chip. No fox on X but the sound is fixed and the game starts like it should. Could it be one the R335 POT?

I'm going to swap out the sound chip. I think it might be causing 304 to block the x output. The fact that i have to muck with the player 2 controller to get a game to start is a clue and the horrible sound output. I dont understand why the 4 analog joystick pots are going to the CD4052 and IC304 in the first place though. What is the comparator doing there?

Great, always as good feeling when the things finally come up alive again!

Looks like my previous reply through email didn’t go through but this is what I said: Oh my gosh thank you so much. You can definitely read one better than I can! I don’t know how the mux and switchers work so it was boggling my mind how the x signal is working! I was thinking the 4052 had nothing to do with X and it was controlled by the 1408 d/a converter! ? ?‍♂️ and I here’s what I am getting off the scope: 305 pin 9 has a strong signal 305 pin 10 has a weak signal but when I turn the volts/div up I can see data 305 pin 11 has no signal 303 pin 14 has a weak signal as well but I can see data with higher voltage/div 303 pin 13 - none With 303 removed from the board: 303 pin 14 - strong signal 303 pin 13 - strong signal 303 pin 9 - strong 305 pin 9 strong

Do you think ic208, the sound / joystick input controller could have anything to do with it? The sound is wonky and the game won’t start unless I pull pin 7 on that chip low which is not normal so I think that chip is going bad. Could not somehow be affecting the switcher for x?!

Hey all, I’ve been repairing this old board for a while now and I am down to the last issue and I’m currently stumped! my x axis signal is extremely weak and I only a single pixel image down the center. I’ve replaced most chips and socketed them. Looks like I’m getting a good signal on ic304 pin 1, and ic302 pin 13 looks good. i just don’t quite understand how the system controls x and y or switches control between them. as you can hear in the video clip here, the sounds is wonky and a game won’t start without hitting a button on the player 2 controller so i think the ay sound chip is back but I don’t think that would be related to the video collapsing issue would it? I’ve recapped the board and every chip you see that’s socketed is new. New sockets new chips.