Stephen Moss

Could be a broken PCB track or more likely a bad solder joint somewhere near where the screws are, thus with the screws not tightened there is no pressure on the PCB and the connection is made , but with the screws tightened that may cause the PCB to flex enough that the connection is broken. If so then you may find that if you put pressure on the right area of the PCB with your finger or something non conductive causing the PCB to flex slightly that you can reproduce the issue.

The question is did you test the Lynx between doing the recap and the additional testing? If so and it worked after the re-cap but before the testing then you could be correct the cleaning removed something or created a bad joint to look closely at the areas you cleaned with a magnifying glass if you have on to see if you can visually identify it where that may be. If not that as you say it was working before the re-cap then the issue mostly likely lies with the curse of the re-cap - if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Thus, check the quality of your solder joints as you may have a bad one or just missed one and that is causing the issue, also double check that you placed the correct capacitors in the correct positions and the correct way round for those that are polarised.

Sorry, I did not notice that is it is largely obscured by you holding up the controllers, plus the issue was affecting with Team-Tap ports were lite - hence why I thought a team tap was involved. Well it makes some sense that it also causing buttons 1, 2 & 3 on the keypad to show as pressed as they are all on the same column, but different rows so I cannot immediately see how they would be affected, nor how that could affect which team tap controller socket is illuminated. For the latter, it is almost as though the Row strobes are being shorted or otherwise being pulled low enough that the wrong value is being read back, thereby indicating a different controller port is active although I cannot see how pressing Right would affect that. As for the other buttons on the same Row, if U1 (74HC244) has a bad solder joint on it power pin, then it is possible that is is drawing enough current via its inputs to operate, but when Right is pressed that is not the case resulting in all the outputs of U1 to go low, which could account for why 1, 2 & 3 are showing as pressed. However, if that were the case then the problem should occur regardless of which button is pressed, so have you checked all directions, A , B , C, Pause, Option and all the keypad buttons and the issue only appears when Right is pressed or does the same issue appear also when other buttons are pressed and if so which buttons?

From the video is appears that you are using a Team Tap, if that is the case then I think the first thing to do would be to determine whether the issue lies with the Controller alone, the Team Tap alone or a combination of the two. So, if you are indeed using a Team Tap... Does the issue switch controllers if you switch their positions in the Team Tap or does the issue follow the controller? If the issue follows the controller, do you still see the same issues (buttons 1, 2 & 3 also lighting) when the controller is connected directly to the Jaguar?

I hate 555 timers, they either work first time or are complete pain in the ass to get working, I prefer programming a PIC, they work and have more accurate timing even when running from their internal clock. That said, without a schematic to see how it is all connect one can only speculate but as you said... then, assuming each button is connected to one half on the 556 (if that is what it is) then a bad cap may stop one from work, while not impossible having two bad caps preventing both from working would seem unlikely. Check the 556 has power by measuring the voltage across pins 7 & 14, if that checks out then Measure the voltage on the reset pins (4 & 10), I would expect it to be either permanently at the supply voltage or at the supply voltage when turbo mode is enabled and 0V when not. If you measure the output on pins 5 & 9 are they at the Supply voltage, 0V/GND or somewhere in between? The next question is how is it switching the two speeds, is it selecting one of two capacitors or one of two resistors, which seemsthe most likely or another method? If the switch configuration is Off in the centre position then... Track whether the centre pin is connected to the supply voltage (probably switching resistors), or GND or Pins 2 & 6/8 & 12 (probably switching the capacitors) and With no power connected use the resistance/continuity range on a multi-meter and check that switched to the high/low positions the centre pin in connect to the one of the pins either side of it (I am assuming the switch connection are in a standard row configuration). See that that reveals.

A few of the K's have ADC in them but it is not know how many as Atari change to using BankSwitching for inputting pre-digitised analogue controller data, and I think it is the K's that will not run one of the Don Bluth games, again I cannot remember which but I think it was Dragons Lair - I am sure someone will correct me if that is wrong.

@KanedaFr it is not clear if you want to emulate because you do not have an actual Jaguar or no physical cart to load you code in to test, if the latter then a SkunkBoard may be cheaper then a GameDrive as many people who may have purchased them to play demo's on could have switched to a GameDrive and so have SkunkBoards they are no longer using available.

A quick use of the search facility came up with this, not used them myself so cannot say how good they are. You could also try searching for STL/OBJ files for 3D printing shells.

Not that I can recall, although your post prompted be to review the issue and this thread thread, whereupon a though occurred to me that I don't think did previously and in reviewing this thread to see if I had mentioned it before I spotted the following information that I did not pick up on before... The reason this is of interest is that it occurred to me that if there is a short between TP17 & TP18, what would happen is... 1) C38 sets pins 10 U6 to the positive supply 9V-14V as it should 2) Pin 10 of U6 tries to set pin 13 of U6 high but a short between TP17 & TP18 automatically replicates pressing the power on switch setting pin 13 (and in turn & 10) of U6 to 0V turning the Lynx on before C37 can charge. 3) You could then switch the Lynx off as normal (connecting the supply to pin 13 of U6) as C37 is discharged, however, if there is a short between TP17 & TP18 that would then instantaneously charge C37 to the supply voltage so now you cannot switch the Lynx back on as with C37 charged it cannot pull pin 13 of U6 low as it should to switch the Lynx back on as the whole power on/off latch thing has entered a permanent latched-up state that can now only be resolved by disconnecting the power long enough for C37 to discharge. Thus try using a multi-meter to test for the presence of a short circuit between TP17 & TP18 (or Pin 13 of U6 and the non Ground end of C37 in case there is an open circuit to the test points) as that is the only new thing I can think to try.

Why would anyone want to put zip ties into a glue gun, you can get glue stick in most, if not all primary colours so why not just use the hot glue instead. I would think there are two primary problems, the first will be colour matching, the second will be removing any excess as that may create extra marks. For the first you will probably have to get something that is initially close and live with the difference, mask and mix some model paint to the correct colour and paint over it. For the second, if you can fill from either side perhaps tape the outside so that the filler will not protrude above the exterior surface which would then require sanding down which whereby you are likely end up marking more of the exterior. Considering that you may have to remove any over-spill from the exterior surface I would think you want something easy to remove, so Hot glue may be an option but can be trick to remove any excess cleanly once it has cured. Perhaps a little expensive as you generally cannot get it in small tubes but silicone sealant may be worth considering as you can clean off the excess before it cures Perhaps try melting a wax crayon/candle of an appropriate colour and pouring that into the hole, taping over one side to prevent it running out of course.

Unless they have port extender cables I doubt that would fit into and ST. It has been along time since I had my ST or used my Falcon, I think I was given a copy of Leaderboard golf and may have made my own security dongle, if I remember I will take a look when I get home to see if I still have it.

You may be correct, however that is rather big leap to make, considering your previous instruction jumped straight to the voltage regulator having completely ignored all the parts before the regulator that would actually prevent power from reaching the voltage regulator. Perhaps you should refrain from giving advice on a circuit that from your posts it would appear you know little about as.... If they pack it away after use and wrap the power cord around the supply is could be a brake in the cable rather than no power at all It could be a problem with the power button not clocking the power On/Off latch = no power to the regulator It could be a Problem with the power On/Off Latch (4013 & associated components) = no power to the regulator It could that the power latch is fine and the problem lies with the transistor that allow powers through to the regulator = no power to regulator First if you have not found then refer to the schematic diagram here as it will help you when people reference certain components, then use the forum search function and power issues are common and I am sure you will find the help you need in the many post already hear on the matter. In the mean time find C62 (a large cylindrical 2200uF capacitor) and measure the voltage across that, that will more accurately indicate whether or not you are getting any voltage out of your power unit, remember to ensure your multi-meter is on the DC voltage range (dots with line above), not the ac (~) ranges or you won't read anything. If there is still not any power try getting someone to wiggle the cable, if power then intermittently appears it could the the power cable or a bad power socket/power socket solder joint, otherwise if you are getting power then refer to the existing forum posts on the subject for help.

It has been a while since I have done that but as @RodLightning mentioned you should be able to do it with the built in Windows Disk Manager tool provided you have an administrator account or can otherwise run it as Administrator as I think only Adminstators can change/rename partitions and drives.

Well I would start with a non-stick pan because the plastic will melt. Then heat some olive oil in the pan, add some sliced onion and red pepper and cook for a couple of minutes, add the cart and continue cooking until the plastic on one side has melted, then serve.🤪

Crystal Castles - with presumably not much else to do maybe I would finally crack that level I used to get stick on.