dphirschler

Oh man, I mean 1/4". Yes. Wow. How do I edit that post? Darryl

I am willing to do this test. But I want to understand it first. Please let me know if my assumptions are wrong. It is my understanding that: - I would be applying a new programming to the FinalGROM99. - that it would still work on non-QI consoles. - I can put the old program (firmware?) back on the FinalGROM99 cart. And lastly, I have a question. My QI console has the 1981 firmware. Does this invalidate my test, or make it even better somehow? Darryl

3/4" holes. I made sure to use a common size.

Shall I model some slightly taller buttons. They could just be extras.

My FinalGROM99 was without a proper shell for a few years. It remained in a crappity-ass temporary shell ever since I got it (see photo). The problem for me was that I had no 3D printer, and I didn't know how to CAD. But I knew what I wanted to create. I needed button "caps" that basically sit stop the micro buttons on the PCB and extend upwards through the cart shell. The holes would need to be precise. BTW, the holes in the crappity-ass temporary shell shown in the photo did not line up very well. This photo shows the 3D-printed buttons I was finally able to create. And the next photo shows the button caps sitting atop the PCB micro buttons. This model shows the button cap as well as a drilling template I designed to help line up the holes properly. Here we see the drilling template in place. It snaps in pretty tight. And these photos show the drilled holes. I had to sacrifice a Home Financial Decisions. Here is is with the buttons installed. I experimented with a red button, but I like the black better. And finally with the label. I designed a new cart label. I modernized the original a little. And finally, I put it up on Thingiverse. Enjoy. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5352564 Darryl

And now, I have designed a few improvements into the shell, but I want to hold off printing another shell until I get some accurate measurements from an actual Romox cart shell. Maybe I can use this time to design a nice label. Speaking of labels, I chose not to wrap the label around to the underside of the shell. I mean anyone could make a label that wraps over onto the bottom, but I am not cutting a groove for it. It would make the bottom shell print awkward.

Here is the nearly finished prototype. At this point I had not designed the front hook that help keep the front tight on the left and right edges. There was only a center screw holding it shut in the front. Also, the bottom side had some problem with it curling up slightly as it is printing. Still trying to solve that issue.

There are 39 grooves on the back part of the Romox shell. I reduced it to 35 for my model. I also do not emboss the Romox logo on the top shell. The next image shows the button "hat" which presses on the actual button on the PCB. The third image shows the rounded back edge of the cart shell. Although the shell works without it, the rounded edge helps push the flap open on the TI cart slot.

This image shows the corresponding hooks on the top shell. What is also visible are several other details including: - a rectangular notch on the underside to accomodate the large IC chip. - a hole for the RESET button. - a 3mm hole for the LED which widens to 5mm because the top of the LED actually touches. - four snap-off supports to aid in printing.

This photo shows my first test print of the bottom shell. It proves the PCB perfectly fits the shell and is secure. But I had not yet worked out how the shell will snap together and stay closed. The next image shows the notches I designed into the bottom shell for a slide/snap enclosure, along with a screw hole in the front of the shell. It's difficult to see, but there are notches at the front as well.

These are photos I scoured from the Internet. The most useful one was the side view, even though the thumb is partially obscuring the back edge. Also the one showing it cracked open was very useful. The real sad thing is I used to have both "Anteater" and "Princess and Frog", but I sold them years ago. So lacking real measurements, I was forced to estimate dimensions using actual TI cartridges and these Romox photos.

Even though I have a FinalGROM99, it always bothered me that my FlashROM99 has been without a shell since I got it. So I have spent the past week designing an test-printing a cart shell for my FlashROM99. The board is an odd shape. No mounting hole, and quite long. It does not fit a standard TI cart shell (properly). But I remember someone discovered it fit quite nicely into a Romox cart shell. Unfortunately, those are sort of rare and nobody wants to sacrifice a Romox cart for the FlashROM99. So here we are. In this thread I will document my triumphs and failures designing and printing a Romox-style cart shell for the FlashROM99. A couple of notes: - I could still use some good measurements or additional photos of actual Romox cart shells. - I plan to put the stl files on Thingiverse once I am done. Current state:

I've been working on this lately. Here is my progress. I've put more pics on the FB page. It's smaller than the Hexbus (which is ginormous!). This can be printed on a Prusa Mini.

If nobody has stepped forward already, I will design a case for the SDD99. Let me know if you are interested. Darryl

I designed a case for the Atarimax SIO2USB Adapter. Styled after a Sony PSP power brick, but I like the diagonal grooves (seen in other designs) so I added them. This is a snap-fit case in two halves. No screws necessary. Enjoy! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4860081

I mounted the old F18A like this

Thanks for doing these. They are amazing! Darryl

I will buy one if you make it again. I always wanted one. Darryl

I prefer Asteroids over RnS. I like the smaller small rocks. That being said, RnS is amazing! And if Asteroids had never happened for the Vectrex, I would've been completely satisfied. Thomas is clearly a diehard Asteroids fan. Darryl PS. I wish EVERYBODY could have a VecFever. It saddens me that so many people crave it and can't have it. I hope one day there are enough for everybody.

Freakin' brilliant mod. Nicely done!

Have you considered making another run? Darryl

Update. I've been sending in regular updates on the FB page, but I feel like it should be documented here. So here are the highlights: I've replaced the five large caps on the power board (C513, C109, C117, C118, C119), including the one pictured above. Still the same problem. I checked EP105-104 and EP105-106 and I am getting 10.4 VAC instead of 8.6. But it matches up the same with my working Vectrex. I am guessing 10.4 VAC is the US version and 8.6 VAC is for EU version? Can somebody verify this? I removed and re-seated the 4066 IC then the screen came alive! See photos. The vectors are still messed up. Either I get a dot with hairs or some messed up geometry. It's never the same thing twice. If I turn it on and get no vectors, no amount of waiting will make them appear. But if I switch it off and back on again, I may see vectors... although messed up. And then If I do it again, I may see vectors that are fairly normal, but too bright... or is it faint? I see the dot in the middle and spiderwebs, but if I turn brightness down to make the dot disappear, everything else goes away too. So I guess too faint. I then swapped out some of the IC chips (IC301, IC302, IC208) and have good reason to believe they are all good. Somebody on the forum suggested that I check the RAM. I cannot swap it out because it is soldered in working Vectrex. But after thinking about it, I reasoned that the RAM must be good. After all, the game plays fine blind. Even when the vectors are partially working or not working at all, I hear sound and it responds to the controller. Furthermore, I have good reason to believe that the MC1408-P8 DAC (IC301), 4052B CMOS MUX (IC302), and AY-3-8912 (IC208) are good, since I was able to swap them out with a working Vectrex. Could the two op amps (IC303 and IC304) be bad? Maybe. The unit produces vectors sometimes, but they seem weak and distorted most of the time. But BOTH op amps? Could the 4066B BI switch (IC305) be bad? Maybe, but it's not behaving consistently. I'd feel more sure if it did the same thing all the time. I cannot swap it out with my working Vectrex because it is soldered in. With all this in mind and looking at the schematic, the integrator caps come into question. I know caps are prone to going bad, but ALL of them? I ordered a set of integrator caps from Console5. I should get them Tuesday. Darryl

Here is the bad cap.

The Vectrex buzz came back. I originally thought it was because I cleaned a connector, but I think it just comes and goes. The diodes tested good. The power levels at various places on the board tested good. I just went down the list in the troubleshooting guide. Eventually, as I was looking for test points for the 9v power, I discovered some corrosion on a solder point. Close examination revealed a bad cap. I identified the bad cap as C513 (on the power board). I've ordered a cap kit from Console5. In the meantime, I need to clean the stuff off the board that leaked out of the capacitor. I suspect the two smaller caps above it are also bad. Depending on what's included in the cap kit, I'll replace what I can. Darryl

Help me troubleshoot this Vectrex. It plays blind. I hear sound, the controls work. I do not hear the tale tell buzz of the Vectrex or the crackle when I turn the volume knob. But I can adjust the colume. And I do see neck glow through the top vent holes. I should mention that when I turn the brightness pot, I feel like the board it is attached to is loose. Although the pot itself seems securely mounted to the board. The Vectrex is very clean! It looks and feels brand new. So I doubt it was the subject of any abuse. I haven't taken it apart yet. But I thought I would get some advice from the experts first. Darryl