runner2019
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Posts posted by runner2019
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1 minute ago, Mocotechprfl said:
Make sure the G is capitalized in the \Games folder.
Ok, will try tonight. Thanks
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Hi,
I got an Atari gamestation pro a couple of weeks ago. It's great but I'd like to use it mostly to play a lot of games from my SD card. I've formatted it a few times already but it's never recognized by the system. I've formatted it in FAT32, all combinations for allocation blocks possible. Also exFAT (just in case it worked) but nothing. I've used "Guiformat" and "SD card formatter". Also windows formatting. The SD card is a 16GB Sandisk which works fine elsewhere. No need to say I've also created the "games" and "states" folders. Any ideas?
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Hi,
I got an Atari gamestation pro a couple of weeks ago. It's great but I'd like to use it mostly to play a lot of games from my SD card. I've formatted it a few times already but it's never recognized by the system. I've formatted it in FAT32, all combinations for allocation blocks possible. Also exFAT (just in case it worked) but nothing. I've used "Guiformat" and "SD card formatter". Also windows formatting. The SD card is a 16GB Sandisk which works fine elsewhere. No need to say I've also created the "games" and "states" folders in the root. Any ideas?
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5 minutes ago, Dr Karnov said:
The 2600+ does not have an SD cart slot
Sorry. Just edited the topic. It's a Gamestation Pro. I bought both and got confused with the names.
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Hi,
I got an Atari gamestation pro a couple of weeks ago. It's great but I'd like to use it mostly to play a lot of games from my SD card. I've formatted it a few times already but it's never recognized by the system. I've formatted it in FAT32, all combinations for allocation blocks possible. Also exFAT (just in case it worked) but nothing. I've used "Guiformat" and "SD card formatter". Also windows formatting. The SD card is a 16GB Sandisk which works fine elsewhere. No need to say I've also created the "games" and "states" folders in the root. Any ideas?
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On 5/30/2023 at 5:00 PM, xhul said:
Hi,
You were so right. It is a Rev. 3 (I don't know where I got it was a Rev. 6 from lol). I just soldered the wire onto the scanlines pad and it works and shows scanlines perfect now. Thanks so much!
On 5/30/2023 at 5:00 PM, xhul said:According to the second photo, it definitely looks like an IPS V1 Rev3 (latest release), not a Rev6.
The first thing would be to confirm that, by simply checking what's written on the PCB (can't read it from here, it's in the shadow on the photo).
If that's indeed the case, just solder that blue wire to "scanlines" instead, and leave the "brightness" pin alone.
That's of course assuming the lynx motherboard isn't a C104129-001, be sure to check that as well beforehand.
If everything went well, you should end up with a working brightness wheel, and the backlight button (regular presses, no need to hold) should cycle through the 4 display modes (regular, scanlines 1, scanlines 2, and VGA-out).
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22 hours ago, xhul said:
Hello there =]
According to the second photo, it definitely looks like an IPS V1 Rev3 (latest release), not a Rev6.
The first thing would be to confirm that, by simply checking what's written on the PCB (can't read it from here, it's in the shadow on the photo).
If that's indeed the case, just solder that blue wire to "scanlines" instead, and leave the "brightness" pin alone.
That's of course assuming the lynx motherboard isn't a C104129-001, be sure to check that as well beforehand.
If everything went well, you should end up with a working brightness wheel, and the backlight button (regular presses, no need to hold) should cycle through the 4 display modes (regular, scanlines 1, scanlines 2, and VGA-out).
OK, Will give it a go this evening and let you know. Thanks very much.
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1 hour ago, runner2019 said:
Hi!
Got this kit a few days ago from Zedlabz. Being version 6 it's got not a "backlight" pin at the rear to solder the scanlines wire to. Instead there's a "brightness" pin in the same location. I was told by the guys at Zedlabz to solder the wire here. I installed everything and soldered the wire both ends (the other end fourth upper pin on the motherboard). The screen works ok, but not the scanlines. The backlight or the brightness buttons on the lynx does nothing when pressed. Question is...there's a pin at the rear at the bottom of the screen labelled "scanlines" which wasn't present in previous versions. Do I have to solder the wire here instead of on the "brightness" pin? I threw the question to the Zedlabz guys a coouple of days ago but I think they're busy...Thanks
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Hi!
Got this kit a few days ago from Zedlabz. Being version 6 it's got not a "backlight" pin at the rear to solder the scanlines wire to. Instead there's a "brightness" pin in the same location. I was told by the guys at Zedlabz to solder the wire here. I installed everything and soldered the wire both ends (the other end fourth upper pin on the motherboard). The screen works ok, but not the scanlines. The backlight or the brightness buttons on the lynx does nothing when pressed. Question is...there's a pin at the rear at the bottom of the screen labelled "scanlines" which wasn't present in previous versions. Do I have to solder the wire here instead of on the "brightness" pin? I threw the question to the Zedlabz guys a coouple of days ago but I think they're busy...Thanks
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6 hours ago, alex_79 said:
You could try this replacement crystal, instead of scavenging it from a working console:
According to the description it is a slightly different value (3.579545 MHz instead of 3.579575 MHz), but it is said to work just fine.
Thanks!
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12 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:
@runner2019 That part is the main clock crystal and they don't normally rattle although with that particular package of the crystal, maybe the outer can is loose causing the noise you hear. That said, the clock crystal from a 4 switch could be used as I believe they are all the same frequency. I've circled the main crystal from a 4 switch below. So it looks smaller and little different, but same thing.
Oh...be careful as the crystal can break internally from too much shock to the part. I've not really had this happen to me personally but be careful with it all the same.
That's fantastic. Thanks so much for letting me know. I'll give it a go at the weekend and will post results!
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Hi,
My heavy has been stored for years and is not working anymore. The bottom left metal part (circled red) on the board clanks when shaking the board as if there were something loose inside. I'm kind of useless at electronics although I have enough skills to solder / desolder parts. I've tried and changed the TIA and RIOT chips but still nothing, which makes me suspect this part is the problem as it sounds really weird. Question is, is there a part in a 4 switch console I can replace this with? I have a spare 4 switcher and I wouldn't mind to use some components to replace my heavy sixer's even though they don't look the same (I know there's not such thing as this specific component on my 4 switcher's board but maybe there's an equal capacitor/resistor?). Thanx
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2 hours ago, sramirez2008 said:
All my consoles have dust covers and most of them are from eBay seller Papanannyfunstuff. I also have a couple from pkrah and a few OG covers. I purchased one cover (for my one of my 7800s) from eBay seller https://www.ebay.com/str/itemblockshop. This seller is still on eBay.
I also have covers from Papanannyfunstuff for my 5200 trak-ball as well as, the ColecoVision Roller Controller and Expansion Modules.
Wow, Fantastic collection.
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5 hours ago, -^CrossBow^- said:
It is possible that he received something in regards to the logos on his covers for the Atari ones. I know it has come up before that the new Atari is not nearly as lenient on this as in the past. So that is a good point I hadn't thought about.
Yeah. I know for a fact that a website making Atari console box repros got a call from an Atari lawyer in NY to cease activity...
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On 3/9/2023 at 11:27 PM, -^CrossBow^- said:
I've only ever used Printerboys polyester covers. Those are quite thin when compared to the canvas ones from pkrah. Speaking of, if he is sold out, it doesn't appear that way on his etsy store? Hmm...
I actually prefer Barb's covers to the others as they fit well, have a quality feel to them and they aren't really black. They are a dark brown similar to how the 5200 only 'looks' black but is actually chocolate brown in direct light. I would have loved a full set of Barb's covers for all my consoles, but there are quite a few she never designed or made. The TG-16 covers being one of the last I think that was designed so for the rest I went to PrinterBoy as pkrah also didn't have covers for some of my setups then either.
Pkrah is still on etsy, yes and he's got all the Atari covers on the site but with the exception of the Atari Jr. all the others have been sold out for a few months already. Funny thing is that he's got covers for a lot of different systems. It's only Atari that he's not making anymore. Some copyright problem??
As for the printerboys, not my style. I prefer one solid colour with the logo on top.
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Thanks so much for the links. The seller I was talking about is the last one you listed. Beautiful canvas covers but all sold out and they've been for a few months now so I don't think he's coming back on business. As for the other two not my cup of tea as the covers are too thick and I'm not very fond of black colour for this matter. I'll keep on trying.
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A few years ago I bought some beautiful dust covers for my heavy and 4 switch consoles from a guy on ebay who had them in different colours (blue, brown, burgundy, black). They even had the Atari logo printed on them. I had to sell part of my collection during the pandemic as I was going through a bad patch. I now have the Atari consoles back home and I'm trying to buy these dust covers once again. To my surprise this seller is still on ebay but kind of inactive as all of his items are sold out. I sent a PM but got no answer. question is, does anybody know any decent dust covers for the consoles out there? Anybody here still making and selling them? I also saw back at the time somebody here on this website making them...
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I see, thanks
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Being useless at electronics here's my question.
What gives the Atari its NTSC / PAL capabilitiy? Is it only the TIA chip or is the whole motherboard different?
Could I just install an NTSC TIA chip on a PAL board and would it work as a NTSC system?
Thanks
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Ok, thanks both. I'll check that over the week-end
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Hi,
I installed two vintagegamingandmore av mods on both a 4 switch and a heavy sixer last week-end. The one on the 4 switch is working fine but the one on the heavy sixer returns a very dark blurry screen. These are not the first mods of this kind I've installed. In fact I've installed about 8-9 in the past years with no problems whatoever (with the exception of one unit but it was the TIA chip, nothing to do with the mod itself). I followed the instructions again as this was my second heavy sixer ever. I removed Q202 and R213 and also the RF unit. Although my soldering skills are not very good, all of them seem to be fine. Sound is great but video as you can see is really bad. Any ideas? Being it a heavy, should I have to have removed any other components? Any ideas would be appreciated. I'm sure most of you have a lot more experience than me at this. The pictures on the left are the 4 switch, the ones on the right are the heavy sixer's screens. As you can see there's a huge difference and something is clearly not right. Thank you.
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Just now, ApolloBoy said:
As far as affordable mods go, the UAV can't be beat. Since you have a 4-swtich you'll need to get the "Basic" kit.
Thanks a lot. I'll take a look
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6 minutes ago, ApolloBoy said:
L201 shouldn't make that much of a difference as it's the coil used for adjusting the audio through RF. The ghosting is inherent to that particular mod I'm afraid, I've tried it several times in different guises and I was never satisfied with it.
I see, thanks. Which one would you recommend better than this but at an affordable price also?
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Hi,
I've just successfully completed a vintagegamingandmore av video mod on my 4 switch today. The image and sound are ok but there's a little ghosting. Following the web instructions I've only removed the rf box, c209 and q201 transistor. I've seen on different sites though that it's advisable to also remove L201 (the big red piece in the middle) and a couple of other small resistors. Question is would this really make a difference in image quality? Should I try it?
Thanks
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SD card not recognized on Atari Gamestatoon Pro
in Atari General
Posted
Sorry for being late in replying. I tried that and it did worked! I would have never had imagined it myself. Thanks so much!!