7800fan

The original PC joystick was 2 buttons not 4. Back then, you could have a Y adapter to get 2 players or one player only 4/6 button joystick. if you used those with the Y adapter, the extra buttons aren't passed through.

The "juicers" have to take risk to make money. They could be sitting on a rare game for a long time before they can sell it, which means around $500 from original investment could be locked up. And there's a chance someone could have a warehouse find. For example, ScummyReseller could by buying up every copy of Air Raid and trying to relist them for $500,000 when a lucky warehouse find turns up a few thousand sealed Air Raid and sell em for like $100 each. Suddenly, the used copies ScummyReseller paid several hundred dollars each aren't worth much anymore and nearly every collector would have one so the demand would be so low that used copy won't sell even for $10. Ok a bit extremely unlikely but it can happen. They do need to consider the cost of storing and protecting their stockpile, added cost for home insurance in case of break in or fire, and listing fee on eBay (if it's not free) or store fee.

8 is common ground and it is needed for all switches to work in a joystick. 1 is for Up direction. If you want to try and get the joystick working, a cheap 9 pin controller extension can work, just cut off the pin end, figure out which wires are which. 1 is for Up, 2 Down, 3 Left, 4 Right, 6 fire, and 8 common. Wires for 5, 7, and 9 aren't used in standard joystick.

Sure if you pay for air fare from USA. We should have 2 separate locations. One in Europe and one in North America. Maybe at the same time with 2 ways video streaming so we all can see each other?

Still waiting for boards. I've been playing with my original prototype and it played Pitfall II just great like a 2600 version with beefed up graphics. I may actually make real progress in the second quest, I could never do Pitfall II well with analog stick. I'll probably have enough to make around 10 boards, you would need to pick up keypads separately, and if you don't have one a controller extension cable. The PCB mounded D-sub don't fit in 5200 because of the ears and I'm too lazy to hack em all. I went ahead and picked up lot of 10 analog switch chips to make boards with, if those works and aren't fake then it's only $2.70 each. USA seller wants around $5 each :/ I don't know what the final price would be for the small run.

If Space Harrier was ported to 5200 I would buy one. Be sure to rename it before selling it to avoid running foul of Sega copyright police. It would be great if Space Harrier has multiple controller modes. Supports trackball, analog controller, or digital controller. I am used to digital controller for SMS and Genesis version.

BTW I did check 2 ports schematic and made the revision based on the mod my 2 port system has. Your 3rd picture is the same: Mine also has the odd angled diode but I didn't have a lifted pin. No idea what purpose that pin served or how lifting it out of socked worked.

Cooling spray didn't work, swapping chip around did move the hot spot around. My temp probe was registering nearly 75'C on 2 of the chips, a tad toasty. I got a set of 8 RAM chips off eBay from Europe and swapped them all. Now my 5200 works. I also had to replace the original cart slot, it didn't work because of gunk inside that I couldn't clean out and the power LED, the old one somehow had broken lead.

Moero! Nekketsu Rhythm Damashii: Osu! Tatakae! Ouendan 2 No idea what it is about.

What about TMNT? Dealing with underwater bomb sucks.

Cell phone charger should work. They put out 2.1A and will be more than enough for a 5200 with 2600 adapter.

Ah it's on the other side of Lake Michigan from where I live. I'd have to go about 3 hours south-west, go through Chicago, and a few more hours north to get that lot. So about half a day round trip plus around $50 in gas.

If the tracking still shows not delivered, I think after 21 days you can open insurance claim on lost package. The post office will have to eat the loss and you should get most of the money back. If the game you sent is worth more than $50 and you didn't pay for extra coverage, you won't get the full amount. USPS insurance is almost only good for lost package, otherwise it's like a scam. If the item arrived damaged, it'd be hard to prove they caused the damage and not due to improper packaging.

https://www.gamespot.com/articles/some-snes-classic-pre-orders-from-walmart-are-gett/1100-6451969/?utm_source=gamefaqs&utm_medium=partner&utm_content=news_module&utm_campaign=homepage Seems like Walmart started presale too soon and had to cancel them. I do hope they prioritize cancelling all pre-orders of more than 1 system to stop flippers and give more people a chance at actually getting one to keep.

White dot marks pin 1 of the chip, and should be closest to the notched side of the socket and silkscreen. So the right side chip is in correct position. Left side chip is backward.

The banana plus is usually called RCA plug. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector Both the RF signal from 2600 and the F-type (twist on) from antenna or cable boxes are 75 ohms while older antenna cable (flat ribbon) are 300 ohms.

Didn't buy anything but one local Goodwill has a surplus of PSX, PSOne, and PS2 consoles and 3 Wii consoles with missing GC port covers ($50 or up) and a bunch of controllers ($10 and up), no game at all. I would guess games were picked over clean before I got there, or they were picked over during yard sales and the unsold consoles were dumped at Goodwill.

Some of the concern is sort of overblown. The worst case with 3.3v chip in a 5v console with poor or zero level shifting is that 3.3v will run hot and burn out but the console is not likely to suffer any damage. A DIY people may try to get away with minimum stuff but good people who intend to make and sell flash carts usually implement good level shifter and 3.3v regulator to protect the low voltage parts. You could lose a $100 flash cart but Krikzz have lifetime warranty on his Everdrive carts and it's very rare I hear of a problem, it's more likely something else. A faulty memory card, an unusual setup or mod on console, or rough handling of the naked flash cart board. There were issues with early Turbo ED 2 that was caused by either chip based mod switch (one button switch or controller select on power on) or long data bus between cart slot and expansion devices (Namely TG-16 and CD dock) that was resolved with 2.3 and later.

One of the 8 RAM chips gets rather hot, almost too hot to touch compared to other 7. Could this cause no video issue? Or should I replace the hot chip and look elsewhere?

I could sell the board with some parts when I am sure there aren't any more mistakes. I only got 2 chips so you will need to order the chip, the board can come socketed so you could just pop the chip in and it'd be ready to go.

PVM is also quite expensive through the usual channels like eBay. You'd need to be lucky with Craigslist find or something to get one cheap. The larger one over 20 inches can cost over $100 plus shipping. The next best thing would be Sony Wega TVs. They are heavy as heck but may turn up cheap on CL. I found my Wega at Salvation Army cheap and it has component, S-Video, and composite and is about 120 pounds.

The box is taped up with enough tape to satisfy USPS regulation 20x over. You won't be able to save the box at all, and the way it rattles inside there is no tray and probably no manual either. Considering the overall condition of other N64 carts, the Mario cart probably has bad label as well.

Just trash it. If it was brand new generic Chinese mad PSU, it probably doesn't have any filtering inside and would harm many of the electronics. A good PSU for Atari 5200 would be 10-12v range, 2A (technically 1A is enough if you never use VCS adapter), and has some filtering internally to reduce AC ripple on the DC rail. If you have O-scope and a large power resistor (something like 10 ohms 15w resistor (yes, 15 watts, not the common 1/4w), using O-scope you can see what the ripple is like and how much variation there are. I like it under 5% (which would be around +/- 0.6v on a 12v supply)

My local Goodwill had a lot of game stuff. Lots of N64 games, all $9.99 each. Nothing good. Boxed N64 console (taped up a lot to prevent people from open it and losing stuff, but I can't check if it has 4Mb expansion or if the controller was good), $70. Also a silver slim PS2 $60, XBox 360 first version $100 and PSX with controller (non DS) $25 plus a dozen NDS games for $10 each. Seems like my local Goodwill are using eBay price or slightly higher.

There is a voltage regulator inside that downconverts anything inputted to 5v that 5200 needs. However the excess voltage needs to be dumped. 11.5v may get the heat sink warm, 18v will make it hot and can possibly burn up the regulators.