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7800fan

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Posts posted by 7800fan

  1. I think it's more that Gameboy was cheap. Portable game systems back in the day were more likely to be played by kids and average kids would prefer cheaper Gameboy over pricier Lynx and Game Gear (and very pricey Turboexpress). Battery life were measured in several hours up to around 30 for Gameboy vs about 4-6 for color systems.

  2. Hi Everyone, the color pattern appears to be brown - yellow- blue - red. which makes it a weird resistor since typical resistors only have 3 bands.

     

    Typical resistors have 4 bands with the 4th being tolerance. There's 5 band resistors that have higher precision but it's not commonly used in consumer goods.

     

    Assuming the red band is for tolerance, 2% then brown-yellow-blue would be 14Mohm. But if the tolerance band is brown (1%) then red-blue-yellow is 260k

     

    You will need to desolder one leg to properly measure it.

  3. Check for loose speaker wires, cracked or bad solder joint on volume control, speaker connection, and audio in jacks and clean volume control pot.

     

    Also is there a headphone sound out? It's been a while since I looked at 1702 but I recall some Commodore monitors having sound out that disables internal speakers, if it's gone bad or has something plugged in.

  4. Been away for a while, I got email about ordering this. I sent my response with my address, payment method, and wanted just one, was I supposed to get invoice or something? For one to Michigan

  5.  

    Can I buy some or are you offering for sale? Please let me know as I would love to get these adapters out there.

     

    I only got naked PCB board. I could program the chip and wire up the port if I have spare parts. You need 1 or 2 ports? The adapter can work with Intellivision, Intellivision 3, Tandyvision, Sears Arcade, and Sylvaniavision with the pass through connector for original controller, all you'd need is to wire in 5v and ground off the power supply's 5v regulator. Intellivision 2 requires more extensive mod because they don't have the same 9-pin inline connector.

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  6. Wanted to play but never had a working console. eBay seems to be going over $100 for working console shipped. If you have a naked working console and in USA I'd like to buy one at reasonable price. If you have a small lot with controller and few games I'd be cool.

  7. Update. Naively will work with the Atari Jaguar, Atari ST2, Atari Falcon. With an adapter it will work on the Atari 2600, Atari 8-Bit, Atari ST and Atari 5200 systems. I am working on expanding the available adapters for these for other systems as well

     

    I've made adapter that works on Intellivision. Because of convoluted matrix, I ended up using Atmega328 to translate keypad and buttons from Jaguar to Intellivision.

  8. Quick question since I am planning to buy 2, are the extra 3 buttons mapped to pin row 6, column 1, 2, and 3 according to the pinout: http://arcarc.xmission.com/Web%20Archives/Deathskull%20%28May-2006%29/games/tech/jagcont.html?? Reason is I can update my Jaguar adapter to account for the Pro buttons and make them work like SAC for Colecovision. The standard 3 button layout meant I had to map the 4th color button to Option or Pause which is a bit further away and slightly inconvenient for my thumb when playing a Super Action enabled game.

     

     

    right, it uses the 15 pin cable :)

     

    Same as VGA design but I wouldn't trust VGA cable for extension use. Some cheap one may be wired only for RGBHV and ground. Better cable usually have 14 wires, pin 7 are often not wired at all. Jaguar controller will not work at all with any of those cheap cables.

     

    AFAIK no common standard outside of Atari uses HDB-15 connector with all wired through except for pin 5, 8, and 15, and I haven't found a supplier that do have all 15 wires done through.

  9. I swear every time I look under the console when I dust my stuff, at least one of the console's feet had somehow moved around. Just now my Intellivision 2's feet somehow moved sideway almost 4 inches from original spot. Before that, the feet off my Commodore 1541 somehow ended up under my Commodore 128D. My 128D had not moved for a few years and the feet was on the disk drive when I dusted them last a year ago.

     

    Some older joystick controllers like NES Advantage also have the feet creep. Any suggestion or idea? Gremlins moving it around? And what's usually a good replacement brand that I can get to replace feet that has gotten lost or the glue no longer works?

  10. Wonder if I can get one without the EXT connector soldered in? If it plays everything, I could take the old card slot out of my PCE, remove rear EXT connector, connect the new board directly in there with pin spacer so the chips won't touch other chips, and keep it all inside the tiny console? Route the video out through the RF hole, make a slot for SD card, and I put a FS sign on my Duo-R console.

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