7800fan

Wonder if I can get one without the EXT connector soldered in? If it plays everything, I could take the old card slot out of my PCE, remove rear EXT connector, connect the new board directly in there with pin spacer so the chips won't touch other chips, and keep it all inside the tiny console? Route the video out through the RF hole, make a slot for SD card, and I put a FS sign on my Duo-R console.

Requesting one, sent PM. Waiting for payment info.

Yes. I used SD formatter and got 512MB to work. I downloaded the game folder posted elsewhere since I'm too lazy to properly rename all files with proper cap or unzip 400 files.

I thought it was another variation of Coleco Chameleon? Anyway speaking of getting sucked in the game, anyone a HxH fan? With the game Greed Island, compatible players got sucked into Joystation

Ugh I take a few days away from marketplace and I miss this!

both buttons on SMS controller, and button B and C on Genesis are used as 2 separate fire button on 5200 side. Button A, X, Y, Z, and Start aren't used.

For 7800 support, a slight rewiring of the port is necessary because pin 5 is connected to 5v for Genesis controller. If you used 7800 controller straight without rewiring my board, you will short 5v to ground when you press a button. A mod is needed on my board, disconnect pin 5 and remap it, and pin 6 on the controller port needs to be moved to 7. A bit of a work, I have designed alternative schematic for masterplay clone that is compatible with 7800 and still work with Genesis and 2600 controller via switch to change the pins a bit but I have not tested it yet. If Star Raider keypad is wired the same as older keypad with round buttons, those can be reused for 5200 keypad. AA site has schematic http://www.atariage.com/2600/archives/schematics/Schematic_2600_Accessories_Low.htmlyou may need to snip the resistor that functions as pullup to 5v if it interferes with normal controller function on 5200.

The 5200 that only shows blank screen, if the LED comes on you have a few options. One: one of 2 5v regulator is dead. Check with meter on volt setting between G and O pin (Google for pinout, I think silkscreen has one wrong) and there should be 4.75 to 5.25v If they are low or 0, check for hot chip. Remove hot chip, recheck for 5v on regulator and if present, replace suspect dead chip with known good chip. If the regulator is still low and you don't have any more hot chip, you may have a dead volt regulator. 7805 is pretty common and cheap.

Ok all assembled boards have been spoken for pending payments. Still a few naked error boards left.

PM answered. 4 full sets on hold pending payment, 1 error board on hold as well. 4 full set remaining, 3 error boards remaining.

I also have ancient Radio Shack station but it has served me well for many years. Uses same tip as many other brand like Hakko so I am covered for decades. The iron cord can be detached for replacement if I ever needed to. I ditched the original iron holder for this station also from Radio Shack: The holder can be switched for left handed user, and the spool holder on the back can hold a huge 1 pound roll. Another trick with the alligator grip (stolen from other web site) If your clip is bent off center, replace it first. Then with high temp setting, melt solder into the center of the clip so it fills the gap and make it less likely to get crushed.

Those sellers are taking a risk selling it without clearly stating it is reproduction ("may" be repro isn't enough). There's nothing to stop a buyer from claiming it is counterfeit and showing link to thread like this one showing the difference between real and repro and keeping the game while getting 100% refund. eBay and Paypal tended to side with buyer and when there's claim of counterfeit, they may ask the buyer to destroy it.

One sold. 8 remains.

If you take apart the 5200 controller and checked, you would see the pot can rotate much further than what the stick allowed. I believe the stock pots are 1Mohm and that only half are actually used for the controller. I have looked to replace the icky non centering analog with modern thumbstick but those generally are only 10k or 100k and I have not been able to find a 500k pot that are of correct size to work as drop in replacement for thumbsticks. Since the 5200 uses R/C delay to estimate position, wouldn't dropping in a cap inline work? I think similar trick was used to make PC controller work on Apple II?

First class mail, label printed online, slow route creeping from Michigan to Iowa, then an unexpected detour to Georgia where it stayed for a month before it was finally delivered in Nebraska. Buyer sent me picture of the package, label was still clear and legit so no idea why post office had "problem" with it and sent it to mail recovery for a month.

"It's LEAVE, you idiot!" had to finish that famous line.

I also saw this and made a schematic revision to show how this mod was done: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/266420-schematic-variation-for-5200-2-ports/#entry3778860 It is a factory fix to deal with minor issue that was overlooked when they approved the board design for production. The took an unused gate, wired it from a line and added it to another gate, cut a trace. My guess a timing issue that needed this added line. Also 4 analog pins that originally went to controller port 3 and 4 had to be grounded, they left it floating and that caused issue with some games. I don't know about that one lifted pin though.

http://atariage.com/forums/topic/211622-adapting-jaguar-controller-to-use-on-intellivision-for-about-5/page-2?do=findComment&comment=3427418 I only did the code and used someone else's board to make one. Heck a lot easier than the original Jag Adapter that someone started last century: http://www94.pair.com/jsoper/jag_adapter.html The same adapter works well for Intellivision and I also have a few installed in mine. A few games aren't playable like Vectron because it's really designed for 16 directional controller, no other digital controller offers more than 8. I had considered making 5200 version but it uses analog stick and many games like Missile Command and Kaboom won't play at all so I am looking at different option instead. The 5200 can be made external adapter though because the controller port has both 5v and ground out. Intellivision controller has only ground so you need to get 5v from somewhere inside, and Colecovision is a bit weird. I tried cheating on Colecovision but the 2 alternating 5v line select aren't active long enough for the adapter to work reliably so I had to wire it off internal 5v fixed rail. edit: forgot to mention on Intellivision adapter, the controller is wired pass through so if I wanted to play games like Vectron, I can just not use Jaguar controller. Can't do the same for CV controller.

Sorry about the delay, family health issues in the last few months. My dad is recovering from cancer removal but it was nasty few months when he started getting sick, doctor's discovery, surgery to carve out half of pancreas, a few weeks of hospital stay, and numerous trips to various doctors for exams, follow ups, etc. I figure my Mom and I racked up 10,000 driving miles in the last 3 months. Controller extension cord on 5200 side will be needed since the port has "ears" that will prevent it from going into 5200 console. I have 5200 controller extension cable if you don't have one to use, $6.95 each from Console5, limit 1 per Masterplay clone. (don't overpay for eBay!) Keypad pinout if you prefer to make your own or use alternative keypad. The thin membrane keypad is cheap and will work for quick testing and such. hole dimension and hole placement: The PCB is 1.94" x 1.95" (49.28mm x 49.53mm) When I made my custom case, I aligned the board so the 9 pin port would be nearly flush to one end, and I put the extension cord inside so I didn't need to find a perfect sized case. The case source I got however no longer had any shortly after I bought one and designed around that case :/ Barring any last second surprise, I have 9 assembled, tested, and ready to go. $20 each ($18 if you don't want both keypads), 12" wires will come with the board regardless of if you get keypad or not. ($26.95 with keypad + controller extension cable or $24.95 with extension cable but no keypad) The keypad wire is 12" or 30CM and should be long enough for most case shells. Shipping TBD, from 48435, MI, USA. Shipping is $3.00 for one without extension and $3.16 for one with cable. International shipping is something like $10 at the cheapest with tracking -_- (USPS sucks but still cheaper than UPS and FedEx) I also have a few unpopulated PCB from the first production, it has a serious error in that 9 pin controller port is wrong. You'd need to solder the male plug on the bottom instead of the top or use a female version and get male-male gender changer. $1 each. I could probably send it via regular mail with a 48 cents stamp, no tracking.

Interested as well. I got a controller adapter that lets me use Jaguar controller on Colecovision. The 6 button could allow me to use Super Action buttons.

Tried a few SD cards and even MMC card. When I select SD card browser, it shows loading for a few seconds, then right back to main menu with no games shown. I used the formatter program to reformat the card properly (tried WIndows format as well), I put all the games in Game folder, checked and made sure the games are in Xxxx.bin format as described in http://atariage.com/forums/topic/258970-atari-flashback-portable-faq-and-compatibility-list/ I just can't get the game list to load. Do I have a lemon? Cards used: Sandisk 32MB MMC (yeah not SD but most SD cards are treated as MMC anyway) Kingston 128MB SD Lexar 512MB SD PNY 1GB SD (works fine in Harmony) Lexar 4GB (originally from Nintendo 3DS) Transcend 32GB C10 PNY 200GB UHS-3 (way overkill but had to check anyway)

Salvation Army had a bunch of game carts. Mostly Combat, Pac Man, Donkey Kong, Smurf Rescue, etc mix of 2600 and Colecovision games with a few common 7800 games in the mix. I did snag 3 games for 99 cents each (forgot to take picture of 7800 Dig Dug) I was floored when I checked later and saw Colecovision Pitfall was fairly pricey compared to other Pitfall versions. I knew Double Dragon is a rare 2600 game.

Good quality DC-DC converters with 78xx pinout are pretty good for many of the older consoles. Standard 78xx voltage regulator works by dumping excess voltage out in the form of heat. DC-DC regulator uses high frequency switching to regulate output and does not waste excess at all so it always ran cooler. I replaced the 7805 in my Atari 7800 long ago, the back never gets warm anymore. Puritan may not like the change but personally I prefer to change it since it helps reduce heat buildup and prolong the life of old ICs and caps.

Ultra rare Commodore 65 + RAM-Expansion / C65 / DX64 / C90 prototype, working! I can understand Commodore C65 is a rare machine with just a few hundred made worldwide in various states from non-working model to fully working but why did this one get 81,450 Euros? (almost $95,000 USD) edit: ebay tag doesn't work, needs to be ebay.de and not ebay.com