7800fan

Some TV has VGA in and can be used with McWill's mod. Some do not have one so you will need a VGA to composite converter.

So about OK deal compared to eBay but without the long shipping wait and risk it'd arrive smashed because the seller didn't pack the box at all.

No instruction though. I knew this was uncommon pre-Nintendo variant when I found it yesterday but then forgot about it until this morning, looked it up, crapped my pants. Big box has all flaps but not in great shape. Game box has crushed sides but in better shape and label looks almost new. Haven't tested it yet. Too bad Stadium Event isn't included or I would have crapped every single underwear at once.

What's wrong with tapatalk? I looked around, I can only find screw on connector, not pressure fit like that 5200 RF box. Funny though it is easy to find RF cable that has pressure connector. Why not take one of those cable, a decent one not a cheap one, cut the cable, and solder the cut end inside 5200 switch box? You would have nice molded F-connector that won't fall out because you didn't crimp it hard enough.

I've seen ebay listing for like new 5200 system very cheap, Google image search showed it was stolen picture from a very old auction (not eBay). I've seen listing for laptops that were about 20% of typical price, reverse image search also showed it was stolen, and many more. All of those are shipping from China. 9 out of 10 times the listing were deleted within 24 hours of my finding them so eBay are probably watching and are killing suspicious auctions. If it ships from China and is too good to be true or is using stolen image, it's a scam. I suspect the scam works by wasting buyer's time until they can't get refund from any sources. They use fake tracking stuff, and if the buyer complains, the seller offers to replace "lost" item. If the buyer opens dispute, the seller offers to replace "lost" item and hope buyer forgets to escalate within the 1 month time limit. And then there's lazy sellers who doesn't bother to take picture but find picture of the exact same thing, right down to the same games and steals those. added: if it's legit auction with stolen picture, the seller can be on the hook for: scratches or defects that is visible on item but not shown on picture, color (picture shows black wiimote, buyer gets white one), or missing item (picture shows WiiU pad stand but not mentioned in description)

At 20k setting, 1.0 is probably 1k ohms but that seems low. I checked mine and both are at same number so your port 1 may have a little problem. Try to desolder and remove one leg of a capacitor and diode connected to pin 6 of the controller port and check the resistance again. If it is still low, and you don't see problem along the trace like solder blob, replace the 4050. If it goes up to 14k ish, then either the cap or diode was bad.

NEC was playing smart back then. Very few consumer TV had composite in so NEC saved about $3 not including composite out, then offered $30 Turbobooster to add AV out since the rear port already have composite and audio out. So if someone wanted composite for better signal, they had to buy more NEC stuff, and Turboboster is like $3 in parts with $0.25 in plastic. There's also Turbobooster Plus which is more expensive but has save RAM for some games like Neutopia. If you're not a puritan collector, there's a clone of Turbobooster you can get cheap or make your own cable or add RCA ports and skip the rear port.

Yeah membrane keypad isn't reliable for long term or repeated plays but my plan was mostly playing games that didn't rely on keypad so it won't get much use, like Pitfall. I was never in the market for a large run of Masterplay clone. I get 10 PCB board with the order but I only needed 2, one prototype with the original (bugged) board and one finished design, and then offer the extra PCB to people who don't have the skill or experience in producing one. If the keypad was going to be used a lot like Star Raiders, it'd be easier if it was on the controller itself, and Sega never offered a controller with built in keypad so it's either a 5200 clone, official 5200, or a custom controller which would defeat the original purpose of a masterplay clone. EDIT: my version 1.03 board if anyone wants em: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3oz0vz3wcilbyig/masterplay_clone.zip?dl=0 brd and sch are Eagle file, the rest are gerber 274x format for most PCB jobs if you want to send them. It's already updated for 7800 support. The 2 pins header above the 5200 port is for 5v and ground for future use if I wanted to add something optional, those can be skipped for standard clone build.

So what would a CV adapter for 5200 cost today? Using RAM chips that don't require funky negative voltage, all common off the shelf part plus CV BIOS (because those IP zombies won't rise from the grave to sue for unauthorized sale of BIOS reproduction) and it seems like it could be done today. I'd like to see someone make one and then plug a 2600 adapter into CV adapter!

No, 7800 controller is wired a bit differently. Only left button would work that correspond to 5200 bottom button, and using right button would short ground and 5v together. The circuit is hard wired to put 5v on pin 5 for Genesis controller (not used on SMS controller) while it's used as right button on 7800. I could make a minor revision by adding a switch that toggles pin 5 between 5v for Genesis and fire button for 7800 controller. Cut a trace there, a few pieces of wires, and a switch screwed in. I do have 7800 controller to test with but I am not fond of it anyhow, it's somewhat uncomfortable compared to Genesis controller. Update: I searched for a switch to test this. All I found are SPSTs, very long 10PDT, and a huge DPDT switch measuring 1"x2" so I'd have to pick up something a little smaller that isn't SPST.

With the console turned off, using multimeter set to ohm stick the probe and touch pin 6 and 8 of the controller port, If your 2600 is in pieces, it is easier to check the bottom at the solder spot. If it shows 0 or very low resistance, there's a short.

Just a friendly PSA if the seller offers to resend replacement, do remember the final day you can open or escalate claim, many dishonest Chinese seller often use fake number or just never send replacement and are hoping you'd forget. Also when you left a neg, do not be tempted by offer of refund if you removed, I've heard stories of people who removed the neg but never got refund and feedback cannot be re-applied.

I've gotten things in media mail that weren't supposed to be in media mail. If it was delivered without being discovered, I take perverse pleasure in taking my stuff to post office and show them, and tell them the sender used the service illegally. They take down the sender's address probably to pass it to other post office to start inspecting them and refuse pickup from the said sender.

That poor 101!!! If I wasn't in middle of 101 different projects I would get this one and get an empty Chinese replacement SP shell on eBay. 001 and 101 are the same physically, so 101 board and LCD can fit in 001 shell. bout 1 hour job if you have the right tool and aren't shaking like someone with ALS who had double espresso. I have a 101 that I got from Goodwill some years ago, same condition, and I swapped it for new metallic green shell with Triforce sticker added.

Did you check pin 6 and 8 in joystick port for short? If it's shorted, it is not the 4050. A bad cap or diode could cause it, desolder or snip the pin off diode or cap to remove short and check the game to see if firing is normal. If there's no short, check the pullup resistor on pin 6 to 5v, without that the controller pin may behave erratically. Burned out resistor, broken resistor, bad solder joint or bad trace to the resistor could cause that.

Is there bomb in the game? Suspicious looking wall at top left corner. Also the yellow creature inside the house look like a certain electric mouse from a popular game.

Finally got it assembled and done. All the stuff lined up just fine. I do have one problem: the source of the case has it listed out of stock. So unless I find another source of the same case, the mounting hole likely won't fit different case. I could just sell the clone without the case and let you make one or use it naked. Still waiting on a few parts to make it finished and ready to sell. At this time I'll have 9 available

No. Music files are expected and games may not like it when it can't find music tracks. Also some of them music added up would greatly exceed the ROM size and require bankswitching. You are looking at a major hack to change or remove music, remove 64K RAM support (if it's a System 3.0 game), and make the game ROM (on track 2 IIRC) play without using CD system. You might have an easier time porting a classic early NES games to work on TG-16 or PCE like Megaman was.

for any system that is not overly hard to find or expensive? I got the itch to hack something and make it work for a different console with a little bling but I'd need a house to mount my mod and some early console systems didn't have good joystick controller. If nothing, I may rip up my Sony Dual Stick controller:

There are some 1.54" 200x200 eink display on various Chinese sources like Ali and eBay. I don't know how it's driven though, never explored it since it still can't do more than a few color.

Some games that needs it often don't have any when I get em used or when I play ROM via SD cart so I would need to see scan of overlay for games that used it. Anyone have a collection of em? AA rarity list didn't have overlay column for some odd reason

With Sega and Genesis controllers, both buttons are available for 2 button games.

Nice shape and with box? List it for $20,000 and see what kind of fish you catch with that bait.

The only drawback with eInk display is it won't clear the screen when you turn it off. But they are cheap and partially passive (doesn't need refresh to maintain display like LCD) and very low power.