7800fan

Anywhere from free if you learn to code yourself and compile one. You would need to find someone with a flash cart to test your game on a real Lynx as emulator may not reveal obscure bugs. If you want to make PCB to sell game rather than offer the code for people with flash cart, that can run up about a few dollars a pop plus chip and other parts needed, you solder the parts on.

You could also ask for an used LCD that is 100% working. Quite a few has already replaced their Lynx's stock LCD with the new LCD and I'm sure some of them are still good. Go for the complete LCD/reflector/CCFL set as it's rather difficult to remove the thin metal frame that holds the LCD to the reflector without bending the metal out of shape. edit: no I don't have a good LCD to sell. I replaced the LCD that was full of "holes" due to degraded liquid inside the LCD panel. The next Lynx I plan to mod when I get the money also has LCD issues.

And those I wanted are ending a week before my next pay,

Air Raid for 2600. Not only does it not work right on some TV, it's still an ugly hack of another game and sold very poorly, I heard because it didn't work right so very few exists. I may pay $5 for one only because of the blue cart with T-handle. Not a penny more. When did Super Asteroid/Missile Command start going for 100? I bought an used CIB copy some years ago on eBay for something like $30. I've been watching that 2 Telegames as well but even from other sources it's still a tad high. Super Off Road doesn't play well, seems very slow at first.

This is the first time I've heard of 2600 with VGA output. How was it modded? Or is it RF, Composite, or S-Video to VGA adapter?

Notice the UPC bar were covered? Most likely it wasn't done at any major retail store like Toys R Us (they do have shrink machine, I found a few cheap games, they used to leave empty boxes of old games if they didn't have enough room for display with tickets. Later they reshrinked some games with clearance price tag inside) Either it was done at a game reseller store or by a dishonest person trying to pass it for ultra rare sealed game.

It is noticeably less laggy on the screen due to superior refresh rate compared to LCD of 25 years ago. But don't trust the video. Even though I have 2 BL Demo carts and turned both on at the same time, I noticed after several minutes one was running demo a few seconds ahead than other, even though both still appeared to be running at the same rate. I don't know if there's timing variations during the manufacture or if there's a few software code variations with different wait time on repeating loops.

A fixed iron 20-30w should be OK for soldering but you may have a bit of trouble desoldering and removing unwanted part with lower heat iron, especially that transformer. So it comes down to how badly you want to start playing with the new LCD. Do you want to risk a $100+ hardware to older iron or spend a few days for a new soldering iron?

Cool but I see one problem with the cases: when you have more than 50 Lynx games those cases would start to take up a lot of spaces. Without the case, I can fit my entire Lynx game collection into one large Lynx bag. With the case, I would need a few Gameboy style game cases like the grey and purple Nuby bag that holds about a dozen.

Remind me to check that later.

It's a switching regulator, not linear like 7805 and shouldn't need heatsink. Those Germans did it without heatsinking theirs. I did a quick check, the + terminal of the battery is directly connected to the power rail at the cathode end of the diode so it seems odd one would need to cut the trace and then run a wire there to get power from battery to the new regulator. I checked some more, the trace also goes through inductor L17 to possibly resistor R86, and also goes to power jack. I haven't removed any part yet but the schematic may not be quite right, there are probably other changes beside part number when Atari redesigned Lynx II. Looks like I may need to dig out my Lynx #5, the only one that is truly dead and start removing pieces to get better track of the circuit traces. Now where did I leave that one...? Unless by chance someone finds the correct Lynx II schematic?

I have tried to do a side by side comparision of the old vs new LCD and I think I need something much better than a crap camera that doesn't handle white balance well. If I adjusted my camera to favor the new LCD, the old one becomes really hard to see, like trying to play it outside under strong sun without the sun visor. If I adjusted the camera to favor the old LCD, the new one is bright and washes out everything. Anyone with 2 Lynxes, one new and one old LCD, and a decent camera with good manual white balance adjustment?

The middle pin and the tab are both 5v output. The person choose to solder the tab directly to the 5v rail and break off the middle pin. The left pin is Vin and right pin is ground. On Lynx motherboard, the ground and Vin is opposite so the regulator was soldered in upside-down to match the pins. I should have mentioned the tab is soldered to 5v rail in the schematic

Starting with the obvious: check the cart slot. I've seen black screen when Intellivision doesn't have good connection with the cart. Clean, clean, and clean them some more. Intellivision has a weird setup and it actually does refuse to work if it can't get good connection with the cart. Not like other consoles that displays scrambled screen, funny sound, or crashing while playing,

Started hitting Google with different search terms and I managed to dig up: http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=16879.0 with these pictures: http://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/TNK2/1.png and http://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/TNK2/2.png and part list at http://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/TNK2/TenNoKoe2%20Components.txt Also this one: https://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?44903-Trying-to-reverse-engineer-Tennokoe-bank-2-picture-detail-and-need-help-IDing-parts Common 2kx8 SRAM chip, could probably substitute the convoluted array of parts with a single battery watchdog or use NVRAM with compatible pinout and not worry about losing data for *years* There is one problem: Hudson Soft HuC 6201 is a propriety chip with no detail on its gut. So that leaves 2 options: One hack and steal the chip from a Ten No Koe or other memory system. (I'd cry if someone ripped up a Turbo Booster Plus for the chip!) Two: prod some experts to reverse engineer it and make a FPGA or CPLD substitute (pretty sure a PAL won't cut it). I'm guessing its function is to monitor the bus at expansion port and connect with SRAM to pass data when requested.

Turbografx 16 can have save games via addon such as Turbobooster Plus and Turbo CD system. Also Backup Booster and Ten No Koe for PC Engine or Coregrafx. All are pin compatible with each other although connector shape is a bit different, the USA model has a trapezoid shaped connector and Japanese model has rectangle connector. A little filing will fix that Anyway I can't find any info on how the backup part worked. I do know it involved an SRAM chip, a battery watchdog of some kind, a capacitor, and maybe another chip to handle communication with the host system. My TG-16 has the CD system but the Turbo Express doesn't and can't interface at all. I was wondering if it was possible to hack in a memory save function.

I'm also guessing right difficulty switch also works. Power and color/B&W switch would work as well. The difficulty switch from 4 switch model won't work though.

I wanted to go with LD1117S50TR as it's smaller than most 7805 and other regulators. When I used Google translate, all the pictures and text were separated and all the text were bunched on the top, which made matching what the text with the picture hard. The poster didn't use anything like pic 1, pic 2, etc to refer to specific picture. Also Google didn't translate all the text: (no idea if it has typo or if Google didn't have these in their vocabulary) rausgebrochenem bastelter Zinnberg Lötkünsten It's hard to tell what to remove and what to keep with jumbled up pictures. What I ended up doing was to copy the whole thing to word (Open Office) and I translated only a block at a time to maintain the space between pictures. This is what I ended up (and schematic for Lynx II power supply, original one \stolen from AA member and revised based on what I can figure from that German site) First: remove and cut (in red) Then these mods: Since the new regulator chip would bridge where the 2 diodes were removed, no need to add wire. But it is odd that the user on German site needed to add wire from battery + post to Vin pin of the chip when the schematic shows the battery is directly connected. Maybe the original schematic is wrong in where the + input of the battery is? Or that German version of Lynx is wired a bit different? I'll have to check the continuity on my Lynx when I take it apart to do the mod. (got 2 on hand and 2 more somewhere, planning to do another LCD mod and make it into mini arcade)

Just saw this, eBay says it ended.

File this under WTF were the engineers smoking when they designed the controller. They wanted to cram a total of 15 buttons (2 of the side buttons are the same) and 16 direction disc over 8 wires (9th wire is common ground). The side button were carefully done so it won't interfere with the disc or keypad but the keypad and disc shares some of the same wires so when one is being used, other can't be used without strange result. This is even mentioned in instruction not to use keypad and disc at the same time. The number of times I got killed in AD&D because I didn't release the disc to use the pad is staggering.

Isn't Vectrex prone to blowing out the very rare and long out of production dual Op Amp? The original chip was intended with the original 5" CRT model but when Milton Bradley took on Vectrx, they wanted bigger display and it was basically cobbled together without changing the Op Amp chip so it's being overworked to handle larger yoke for larger CRT. Unless someone found a way to replace with modern part, when that chip blows, you got flat line or a dot in the CRT and nothing else for the image.

I'm also interested. I picked up a few iCade sets from Khol's a few years ago when they were marked down all the way to $7.49 each. I had considered making mini arcade cabs but many of the classic game consoles weren't small. I do have a PCE sitting in pieces (PCE and Coregrafx are both tiny) and easily works with most cheap LCD. Lynx LCD mod would be interesting to try but I'd have to find a very small VGA LCD or one that is RGB and is VGA compatible. Failing that, a VGA to composite converter but that'd add a lot of bulk and iCade isn't exactly roomy.

How does this compare to the longhorn style mod? It does look easier to install.

Saw this mentioned a few times but the only detail I could find is on a non-English site with some missing picture. When I tried to translate it, I poor translation like there's too many technical words that isn't in Google's vocabulary. Can someone give me an easy guide for dummies? Seems like it involves removing a few parts and a transistor that is prone to failing and replacing with a regulator but which pinout and where. And not all picture are clear if it's for Lynx 1 or 2, both used different numbering.

Not with how eBay handles defect. Get 2 or 3 complaints and seller starts slipping in rating, get higher FVF and lower listing/exposure. A few more complaint and seller loses selling privileges. Big sellers with 100's daily sales and less than 1% failure can absorb the complaint but smaller time sellers are more easily harmed by complaint or neg about crushed game box.