7800fan

9 out of 10 times it only takes a few days in customs. If the item is not illegal, not marked high value (I think $10,000 and up), and is not from or to suspected source/destination of illegal activities like drug dealer and nothing unusual shows up in quick X-ray, they go through. One good thing about USA customs, I have never been hit with tax. I figure I imported over $25,000 worth of goods from eBay and other direct forum member to member sales and not once needed to pay any extra,

Why stop at the tiny speakers? If you were to take the difference between stock LCD and the improved LCD, and apply them to sound system, you would probably need this sound system:

Boston? Why couldn't you offer this back in the first week of October? I was through Boston (and few nearby cities) on the way to Cape Cod. At present I don't have any reason to drive out of Michigan and it won't be cheap just driving to pick it up. (gas, food, motel if needed, Canada custom if they stop me even if I am only short-cutting through Canada to reach Micigan)

Sign me up for a physical cart as well. Just the cart is fine if you're planning on a deluxe set with nice box and manual.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xhard+drive+power+supply+5v+12v.TRS0&_nkw=hard+drive+power+supply+5v+12v&ghostText=&_sacat=0 Plenty of power supplies for external hard drives if you don't mind hacking. I searched for USA sellers, plenty of them under $12. If you include HK/Chinese/Taiwan sellers they can be bought for under $5 but with very long and often unreliable shipping.

If you're in USA, try putting DHL tracking code in USPS and see what it says.

Another classic case of not RTFM first?

You can't reliably measure resistor in circuit. You would need to desolder or clip one leg and life it out to break any connection before you can measure it.

#FirstWorldProblem complaining that certain game doesn't look right on 98% of the new LCD when the rest of the world never had the luxury of a portable game system of any kind. Mine's in NYC waiting to get through constipated custom.

Double box it. Even if it's well packed, get another, bigger box, stuff it full of good padding material (newspapers are for fire starting, not for padding) and UPS would need to intentionally run over the box to damage anything inside. As for one lot vs breaking it up, it comes down to: do you want to sell it fast and easy or get the most money? For fast and easy, one lot usually works. For more money, break it up and take your time describing everything. More work as you'd need to pack individually and keep track of who gets what.

Some modern TV also don't like ancient 240p signal and mine gives me half a screen of picture and half black lines like giant comb. VCR "cleans" the signal to be more 480i and seems to work properly.

Got white lithium grease, cleaned the old parts, applied the grease, put it back together, spend the next 30 minutes cursing whoever thought of using a tiny locking washer to hold the middle gear in (about the size of pin head). Tested it with a CD game, it worked fine. Still I'll sooner pay someone than to take my CD apart again, it was a major pain in the butt to get all of the 100 or so tiny pieces in the right place without losing one piece or ending up with a leftover.

looks brown-black-brown to me as well, 100 ohms. gold for tolerance, I believe 5% so the resistor should be between 95 and 105 ohms.

If you checked the power supply when it's not connected to 7800 or with 7800 on, your reading may end up high. Power supply brick with no load tended to read much higher. When it's connected to a load (a 7800 that is turned on for example), it should be closer to 9v. Your power supply's fine.

But if it's going to get connected to a 50" LCD TV, you could really see the difference in S-Video and RGB.

Someone was able to make RGB mod for Intellivision. Can something like it be done for Atari system? The original video chip could only output composite on Intellivision which are then fed into RF modulator. TIA for 2600 outputs S-Video like signal in the form of sync, chroma and 3 luma signals which went through resistor ladder and combined to make composite. I believe there are enough detail on TIA chip that it may be possible to engineer an alternate design that outputs RGB instead. Or is 2600 a complicated beast to make RGB capable TIA clone?

Sympathy bid?

I'd like the Sears console only because it resembles 7800 and Japanese 2800 rather than the large 2600 VCS or the tiny Jr. But no room atm and short on money.

Odyssey 2 as well. I have a couple systems and some 20 CIB games and it's had maybe a grand total of 10 minutes of play time since I got them at yard sale about 20 years ago. Still have em. Colecovision too. Back when I had them and a bunch of games, they did have better graphic and a few had better gameplay than similar Atari games but the only game I could actually care to play more was Smurf game. I ended up getting the new flashback model recently for only $15 so in a way I still have Colecovision. Saturn. Meh as well. Of the games I do like playing, none are exclusive to Saturn. Felt like it was just taking up space so I eventually sold it. One of the game did sell very well at over $100. I still have Saturn controller extension cord, a couple 3D pads, and a multitap somewhere. Vectrex wasn't a bad system but I just didn't have a good enough game to make me want to keep the one I got at yard sale for $25 (CIB system too). I let it go to someone who appreciated it a lot more. Have not tried XBox 360, One, PS3 (have busted system though) and PS4, and WiiU. Also no PSP and Vita so no idea if there's something worth getting for me or not.

I didn't see any obvious sign of wet or leaking cap or discolored or bulging top. However that is just the CD drive. The base unit is a bitch to take a apart, I found a guide on pcenginefx forum, there's lots of solder brade to desolder, lots of cables to disconnect, lots of screws, etc. I think I'll just pay and let someone recap the base.

That's the problem. Without knowing exactly what is wrong, it can be anyone's guess as to what's it worth. For such item with unknown condition and unable to accurately test, $5 would be a good minimum. Since eBay counts shipping toward fees and Paypal fee, the worst you'd end up paying is probably $2.50 total. I'm not fond of reserve listing.

I started taking it apart and the first thing I did was to check the gears. It didn't want to turn at first so yeah dried lube. Still hoping it doesn't need recap.

After owning it for around 25 years, it finally stopped working. The CD mechanism just won't spin. I'm going under the assumption the lube went bad as there's quite a few web sites on this. Looking on eBay, non working drive can reach $100 and working drive costs almost as much as a working Duo. Why is it that? Duo does not need the system card to boot CD and later Duo handles CD-R while virtually all of Turbo CD and PCE CD are really bad with CD-R (due to them being out before CD-R technology) PS in case lube job fails, is there someone that can fix the drive? Assuming it's not the dreaded cracked gear, I think it needs recap but it's small and complicated for me.

Bet 25 cents that the seller gets a neg "pictured tits wasn't included"

One thing I forgot that I liked about back then: any game was one quarter and a good player can make that one quarter last for a long time. Today's game costs upward of $1 or more and they won't let one play more than a few minutes nonstop without feeding more. It's impossible to reproduce a level 256 glitch type play (which can take around 5 hours) on a single quarter.