ScoreAddict

Bump!

I'm hearing A LOT of different things in this regard. While some say that using H2O2 isn't "strong" enough to dye plastics permanently - and recommend chlorine based dyes and worse - others say that H2O2 is TOO strong and plastics should only be dyed by using sunlight/ultraviolet light. And don't get me started on those who recommend dipping the plastics into diesel fuel (!) after the dyeing to keep it from getting more brittle. Sealing with clearcoat also came into my mind. Then again, AFAIK, it is the boron that is used in the plastics (to keep it from burning) which is evaporating and creating the yellow oxidation in the process. So, even if you seal the surface the boron will keep on evaporating as the material basically keeps dissolving further and further once the process has been started.

Pee Wii Herman?

There were quite a number of contests back in the day where you could win a console over here in Germany! Mostly Atari 2600, Sega Mega Drive or Commodore C64* what I remember. Especially since Sega and C= would offer advertising materials for free. Or at least allow you to print their logos in your own ads for the contest. Whereas good ole Ninny on the other hand... too posh and too expensive for us commoners, eh? * Funny, when I wrote this I was thinking like back in the day where the C64 was considered by "proper" users a "gaming computer" only. The very same users were very unhappy on the other hand when no new games with nice sound and graphics came along for their "superior" Apple IIE and IBM PC machines.

Awesome thread! The one big question is where to get new lasers for the CD-ROM² etc. My unit (for example) arrived without the middle gear (sold by hit-japan, who else), some messing around on the pcb and a very weak old laser. Looking for replacement parts I got the gear without any issues and scrounged another laser from a Sony discman. (Unfortunately there also was a short on the pcb and some professional help was needed.) Now I'm wondering if it is possible to either have an old laser refurbished, a similar type (maybe even still in production) modded to fit or new units produced! Any ideas? Getting rid of the lasers may be the only solution in years to come, but I'd love to keep my units in as original a condition as long as possible! (Especially when considering that such solutions as Rhea for example are expensive and the guy doesn't seem to have ANY interest to produce more units and/or cheaper - or to share his knowledge before he loses interest completely.)

Interesting question! I'd say from a certain point on it's more sensible to release a newer console with backward compatability than trying to upgrade further. Then again, there were expansion cards for the Amiga computers (e.g. the Amiga 2000) which basically kept machines from 1987 "up to date" to power pc standard! Funny thing about the Colecovision (at least here in Germany) was that back in the 1980s some magazines claimed the expansion module #3 had never been released - at all! Since my neighbours owned this console I loved (and still love) it to this day! And how amazed I was when I saw the first #3 offered on eBay! The Adam on the other hand was owned by another neighbour and the lady used it for her office work. In 1983 this was a VERY rare computer (over here) since it was offered by only one dealer (for office supplies) in the area - and mostly without any local support or software to buy in shops!

In case somebody else needs advice - don't consider retro bright as an alternative as in most cases the yellowing will return! The best option - apart from getting a "mint" unit - is to repaint a yellowed one. (Careful with VERY yellowed ones as the plastic becomes brittle too!) I have a Commodore 1084S monitor here which was repainted professionally and in the correct colors years ago and it looks perfect to this day!

I'm looking for Cadash for the Turbo Grafx 16, complete in case and with the manual. Not the Japanese version for the PC Engine. If you have one you'd like to sell to or trade with me, please send me a message! Thank you!

Done! Some kind soul helped me out!

So, the seller on eBay did not use ANY padding on my Atari 800 and that's the result: Well, I invested some hours of love into the machine and now it's alive again. But one of the key caps is missing. What I need is the ] and .-key. Can anyone here help me? Please? Thank you!

Adding my 2 Cents - my personal perspective from Germany. Apart from some viral videos on YouTube "pushing" certain consoles (e.g. AVGN, Gamester81 etc.) there's also speculation from resellers and dealers. Especially since the "Nintendo-engine" (read: finding NES, SNES, N64 stuff for cheap and selling them for a lot) is running dry now. I've been visiting flea markets here (Southern Germany) for 5+ years now on a regular basis. If you see a dealer/reseller these days and they have retrogames/consoles Nintendo is always heavily overpriced. And even they have less and less of it on offer. So now they're trying to "push" PS1-titles to higher prices by claiming that these are "retro" too. Well, maybe, but certainly not enough since nobody is paying the prices. And now to get to the topic - until some 2 years ago Atari Jaguar-stuff was pretty cheap here! I got me a boxed Jaguar + 3 controllers + 3 games for 120 Euros! THESE DAYS the console alone will easily go for 200+ Euros in that very same condition! And you can tell that it's not normal PEOPLE looking for it, but mostly DEALERS/RESELLERS if you check for example the German "Craigslist" - eBay Kleinanzeigen. Once again - 2 years ago, I could get a boxed Atari Jaguar WITH the cd-attachment (also boxed) for 200 Euros there. (Which I unfortunately I didn't, because I already had the console back then - and wanted the cd-attachment a while LATER.) Now the very same offer will be around 600 Euros upwards! AND IT'S MOST CERTAINLY A DEALER/RESELLER OFFERING IT! Strangely, Mega Drive-stuff is still pretty tame in regards to the prices (with some exceptions) and most of the Atari 2600-stuff (and many other consoles from this generation) is still VERY cheap! So, I'd say it's speculation mostly and not real interest in the Jaguar which has pushed the prices. (And I saw the very same going on with the Game Cube some 5 years ago.)

What an awesome project! Please sign me up for an uncased version - but with the case included! Thank you!

Thank you for the offer! Highly appreciated! But first I will try to swap the printer heads to see if the damage is related to that or the pcb. Maybe it's only a contact issue, cable related or the photo cell (on the printer head) needs replacement. If that doesn't work I will ask you for a deal.

OK. Thank you for the huge amount of advice! Highly appreciated! Now, let's go through the solutions step by step. - Simple solution The ribbon case is cleary not an issue. - More involved solution The printer initialisation is working properly - up until the point where the printer wheel is starting to spin and won't stop. To be more precise - after powering on the print head will move to the left (I said right in my posting, but it's actually left if you stand in front of the printer) until it reaches the switch/sensor. Once the switch has been hit it will start spinning the wheel. Alas, this part of the initialisation does not stop! My guess is that the photo sensor which detects the spin may be damaged/dirty. Although I tried to clean it, maybe there's still some dirt. - No solution I've actually disassembled the printer down to its components and cleaned every single part. Socketed ICs on the pcb where removed and then replaced (in case of contact issues). I encountered no issues or any signs of damage. But then again with old ICs/ROMs you never know if one goes bad. Using the printer solely as power supply has also crossed my mind as I have another (working) printer unit and actually don't really need the printer option. But it's alway the LAST resort to go that way. I like my systems to be fully up and running. Thank you for pointing me towards Joe B! Seems like you cannot miss the guy when it comes to Adam computers. Is there really no dedicated Coleco Adam-forum out there (anymore)?

Module #3 testing! The fun goes on... OK. Connection from console to module bay was an issue (no picture and continuous sound). Fortunately, I am persistent and tried around for a while and figured it out. And now for the printer itself... when powered on it is initialised, the print head moves to the right side and the type wheel starts spinning. And that's it! It keeps on spinning. On screen the menu can be seen, but not all of it - maybe the system waits for the printer to finish initialisation? Since I also have an Adam "proper" I switched the printers and with the other one the system works flawlessly! Any idea what's wrong with the printer?

OK, I got it right in the end. It's fiddly and REALLY not a lot of fun. Most important: You need ENOUGH string! Don't start this procedure if you don't have MORE string. It's .5mm nylon string. I will make a proper posting WITH photos a soon as I have the rest of the #3 ready. I promise!

I know how the string runs through the printer. I just don't get how to set it up! And how to tighten it properly.

Thanks for the help! Alas, my problem is not the parts missing, but HOW to put the printer back together - in regards to how to set up and then tighten the string (which is still there). It's like a puzzle.

Well, I'd really like to restore it to working condition - if possible.

Hi! Recently, I've got a Module #3. So far there are no issues with it - except for the printer. The "string" pulling the print head from left to right was cut. Is there any video/instructions/how to/faq how to put it back in properly? Really no idea why Coleco had to go for this kind of solution.

Caps have been changed, no difference!

When I turn the handheld on, only this will show up on the screen (without any change): Games will play fine, but sound can only be heard via the headphone output. Since I have a working Lynx II I switched the (upper) halves and the lcd as well as the loudspeaker are ok! Any idea what could be the issue here?

And the resurrection continues! I have two Model IIs here. One works just fine the other does not turn on at all - no difference with batteries or psu. I switched the upper half of the bad unit with the other one and it works perfectly. So it's not the display, switches etc. So on to the lower half! The power connector had to be resoldered, but still no good. Next thing was to shorten the Q12. No difference, still nothing. I've measured the diodes on the board (at least the ones I could easily access, no idea if there are any under the shielding) and two seem to be suspicious: D13 (small diode) measures 196 Ohms in one direction and 355 Ohms in the other. D10 (big diode) measures through (like a fuse) The other diodes behave like they should. Any idea what's wrong here?