The Mr. Video
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Posts posted by The Mr. Video
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Apollo - Space Cavern
Parker Brothers - Popeye
Activision - River Raid
Atari - Yars' Revenge
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For my next rom hack, I changed the player, enemy, and shield sprites to a bunch of different things.
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Out of all the joysticks I have, my go to one has to be the Micro Blaster because of how responsive it is.
Though sometimes I use the Wico Command Control joysticks because of their arcade quality.
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Kinda tempted to get one of these even though I already have a 2600 Jr. and a 7800.
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Ok so I replaced the capacitor and it still boots to a white screen even if I hold down the option button.
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I noticed that the capacitor on the board is rated 10 volts. And the on I bought is rated 16 volts. Is this ok?Sounds very similar to some of initial boot-up problems we were seeing in the XEL project. In our case it came down to the reset circuit not keeping the CPU in a reset condition long enough to get past any instabilities in the power circuits such as capacitors charging up. The 600XL has a circuit that does this power-up momentary sustained reset just for that purpose. It consists of an inverter IC (U14) and a diode (CR3), resistor (R44), and capacitor (C44). C44 would be a likely culprit since it's an electrolytic capacitor which could have dried up. It's value is 47uf, and probably anything of this value (or even a bit larger) rated for 16 VDC or higher would work.
In case you are interested, the circuit works by charging up the capacitor via a 56 K resistor (R44) connected to the 5 VDC power bus, until it reaches a point where the 74LS14 inverter IC's gate input sees a high enough voltage to switch from a logic '1' to a logic '0' on it's output, which is sent through another inverter gate (in order to get the correct logic state required) connected to the CPU's Reset input. The charging of the capacitor takes a small amount of time, so this holds the CPU in Reset during this time (Reset initially will = 0 VDC). The diode is reverse connected across the 56 K resistor so that when power is removed from the bus (power switch OFF) it allows the 47uf capacitor to drain, thus getting it ready for the next power-up cycle (power switch ON).
- Michael
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The Capacitor for that just came in today, will replace the old one later.The big ones are GTIA, ANTIC, thr 6502C cpu, and POKEY. The little one is the MMU chip. They all get warm on most systems, the MMU, 6502 and GTIA especially.
Did you ever check the reset circuit capacitor mentioned above?
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Update: I decided to feel the chips again, this time I left the computer on a little more than last time, and I noticed that some of the chips are getting hot. The chips circled in the picture are the ones getting hot.
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5. World Karate Championship A.K.A International Karate
I'm not a huge fighting game fan, but I find this game really fun to play in both the 1 player and 2 player mode.
4. Gyruss
A really accurate port of an arcade classic, Parker Brothers really knew what they were doing when programming this port.
3. Boulder Dash
An addictive action puzzle game by First Star Software and a really good one at that.
2. Jumpman
A really good arcade style platformer for the C64.
1. Bubble Bobble
I'm so glad I got an NTSC copy of this game, because it ended up being my all-time favorite C64 game as of now.
Honorable Mentions:
Gridrunner
A really good fast paced Centipede-like game by Jeff Minter.
Speed Buggy
one of the first games I got for the C64. A good port of a good racing game.
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Um, where is C44?
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Ah, gotcha. I'll be sure to give that a try later.Sounds very similar to some of initial boot-up problems we were seeing in the XEL project. In our case it came down to the reset circuit not keeping the CPU in a reset condition long enough to get past any instabilities in the power circuits such as capacitors charging up. The 600XL has a circuit that does this power-up momentary sustained reset just for that purpose. It consists of an inverter IC (U14) and a diode (CR3), resistor (R44), and capacitor (C44). C44 would be a likely culprit since it's an electrolytic capacitor which could have dried up. It's value is 47uf, and probably anything of this value (or even a bit larger) rated for 16 VDC or higher would work.
In case you are interested, the circuit works by charging up the capacitor via a 56 K resistor (R44) connected to the 5 VDC power bus, until it reaches a point where the 74LS14 inverter IC's gate input sees a high enough voltage to switch from a logic '1' to a logic '0' on it's output, which is sent through another inverter gate (in order to get the correct logic state required) connected to the CPU's Reset input. The charging of the capacitor takes a small amount of time, so this holds the CPU in Reset during this time (Reset initially will = 0 VDC). The diode is reverse connected across the 56 K resistor so that when power is removed from the bus (power switch OFF) it allows the 47uf capacitor to drain, thus getting it ready for the next power-up cycle (power switch ON).
- Michael
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Ok so my new power supply came in and now when I turn the computer on I get a white screen even if a cartridge is connected.
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I looked for Red/brown screen in my docs. It said the following:
U2 thru U5, U18, U19, U28, U30. and I would guess Antic or GTIA U7 and U17.
All those mean swapping chips with known good ones.
U2 Decoder ; 74LS138
U3 Memory manager
U4 OS ROM
U5 BAS ROM
U18 CO17097
U19 CO61850
U28 Latch 74LS37S
U30 And/Or inverter 74LS51
That's not much help, but what I researched about it.
You could take out the BAS ROM and see if you still get the red/brown screen.
It would boot to a blue screen.
I'd start with the OS ROM, Antic and GTIA.
If you have socketed chips, that would help a lot.
I just tried it, taking the BAS out of a good board. It boots to the self test like you said.
Um...I said it didn't boot to the self test screen.
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I don't see any swollen or leaking compositors. Might be a chip problem.Given your other symptoms, I'm tempted to think that your PSU failed "hot" (overvoltage) and is now not putting out enough current, presuming your earlier voltage measurements were correct. Have you examined the system for blown capacitors inside? Look to see if any of them are swollen or leaking. If you find any, they need to be replaced first thing. Next, get another power supply!
Something like this, or one of Bruce's (B&C Computervisions, aka myatari) other recommended versions:
If you want to salvage the machine, you'll have to try swapping chips one after another to see which one(s) are bad. Good luck!
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Still get the blank screen, in fact, the first thing I did when I got it hooked up was to try to boot it into self-test.what happens when you hold OPTION when you turn it on?
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Can't find any MT marked chips on my motherboard. Though, I did find one marked MMI.He means that if you have DRAM chips marked "MT" (Micron Technologies, I think) they're much more prone to failure than other brands and it's a good chance those are bad, causing or contributing to the problem.
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If the DRAMs are MT on them, they are bad.
What do you mean?
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Today I tested the PSU because I heard that a bad PSU can cause the blank screen and figured out that the PSU isn't outputing enough voltages. Unfortunately I can't open it up because it's one of those "ingot" PSUs that you can't open up.
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I don't feel any of the ram chips getting hot.When you originally posted I didn't realize that you were looking at a blank screen, otherwise I wouldn't have suggested adjusting the color pot. Anyway I agree that it sounds like the OS isn't booting up, which as suggested by others could be caused by any number of things, and all of the suggestions such as reseating chips are good ones to do. But one thing that the 600XL's are famous for is the RAM failing. Touch each RAM chip and if they are particularly hot, especially if one is more hot than another that is probably the culprit and needs to be replaced. If I recall correctly there were two different manufacturers used for the RAM, with one being notorious for failures. If you end up having to replace the RAM you might want to entertain the notion of getting 64K chips and doing this simple upgrade.
============================================================================== HOW TO UPGRADE YOUR ATARI 600XL TO 64K RAM THIS MOD IS COPYRIGHTED BY KEN SUMRALL. HOWEVER, YOU MAY FREELY DISTRIBUTE IT, AND MODIFY IT, AS LONG AS THIS NOTICE IS INCLUDED IN ITS ENTIRERTY. THE AUTHOR MAY BE REACHED AT THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESSES: ken%hpda@hplabs.hp.com ...!hplabs!hpda!ken You will need the follow parts to perform this mod: (2) 4464 RAM chip, 64Kx4, 150ns or faster. Additionally, you will need chip pullers, a soldering iron, and 3 small pieces of wire. I used wire wrap wire when I did this mod. If the chips on your 600XL are socketed, you're in luck, otherwise, you need to first unsolder the following chips: (1) 74S32 location U18 (2) 74LS158 locations U5 and U6 (2) 4416 locations U11 and U12 and put sockets on the mother board in their place to make the job easier. Now bend up pin 9 on the 74S32, and put it back in its socket on the mother board. Bend up pin 3 on the 74LS158 in location U5, and put it back in its socket. Also, bend up pin 10 on the 74LS158 in location U6, and put that chip back into its socket. The last two chips you need to change are the two RAM chips. Put the 4464 chips into the sockets at locations U11 and U12 on the motherboard. Now you need to install 3 wires to complete the mod. The first wire should be connected between pin 3 of the 74LS158 at location U5, and pin 20 of the parallel bus on the 600XL. The second wire should be connected between pin 10 of the 74LS158 at location U6, and pin 18 of the parallel bus. The third wire connects between pin 9 of the 74S32 at location U18, and pin 45 on the parallel bus. That's all there is to it. ==============================================================================- Michael -
Ok it's displaying a redish-brown screen now.
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Do you mean *just* the solid color? No READY prompt or self-test?
Yes.
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Just tried that, didn't work.Might need to adjust the color pot...
- Michael
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Hi. My Atari 600xl came in today but when I turned it on, I get a green (sometimes beige) screen. Any help would be nice.
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That jingle sound you're hearing (the baddies twitch in sync with it) is part of the game's attract mode. An old arcade trick to draw your attention to the game is all. Munchman happens to have instituted such a feature, so no... not an Easter egg.
Ah, gotcha. I thought it was an Easter egg because there isn't really a reason for something like that to be in a home computer game. Thanks for clearing things up.
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Button position
in Arcade and Pinball
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I never really pay attention to button position.