slydc

@alex_79: Very nice job on how you're keeping the "original" look by sending the composite video thru the rf cable. Quite true the the "grass" effect looks great for the Football/Fusbal (aka Soccer)! =) And you're right for the jittery paddle problem as many old Pong console have this problem which is 95% caused by dirty pots. Even my Coleco Telstar Alpha does this problem time to time. Buy a can of cleaner/degreaser spray for electronic parts/contacts, it's usually about $5 and often does miracles. And if a spray cleaner doesn't do the trick then you'll need to replace the pot(s) which for any AY-3-8500 or TMS1955/1965 are 1MegaOhms variable potentiometers. @Kain3n: Happy to read that you've solved the wavy effect problem! Once i have finished some projects, i will try to A/V mod some other dedicated consoles like the Nintendo TV-Games and the Coleco Telstar Arcade just to mention a few. I know that ANY game consoles/systems can be A/V modded as all outputs video signals and are converted to RF signals. --- Sly DC ---

Hi Flip! Nice work! And because of your succesfull attempt, i've tried myself to see if i could do it and well...go here, It's worth the detour (wink)

Hi Kain3n, Sorry for the late reply, i'm always running after time (lol). Looks like you're really doing great for someone who doesn't have much knowledge in soldering and electronics, so thumbs up to you! This is the first time i'm seeing the "wavy" effect, which is cool in a sense but i think i may have the solution to this problem even i've never seen it. I can see 3 possible problems that could cuase this, either you connected the SYNC (pin#16 of the AY-3-8500-1) with all the video feeds (pin #6+9+10+24) or it's a capacitor that is starting to fail or low voltage (are you using batteries ?). For problem #1, here's a quick circuit to see if it's correct the problem: And if this doesn't solve the problem then try #3: an DC adapter with 9 Volts and between 250 to 500 milliamps (watch out if it's a positive or negative tip because you could "fry" the game console if polarities are inverted). And if it's still doesn't correct the problem, then it,s a capactor...and the problem will be which one ? Try solutions #3 and 1 and let me know your progress, take care and keep in touch! --- Sly DC ---

To boost Captain Bruce's sales, i've posted on my OdySim blog for the few copies left.

36 inches?! Those will be vvveeerrryy big overlays!

I have found those overlays by doing a search on everybody's favorite search engine (lol). And nope, the guy who was doing those vector overlays left-off the project because of Haunted House and i understand why as it was such a pain in the ass just to vector it to 800x600 and took me so many hours and the worst it it's not totally rendered but enough to look good. As for accessories, all the games finished for the OdySim does have all their respective accessories, either were scans or simply pictures found on the net. Even Nicholas (aka njb12287 here on AA) helped me out to debug the first versions 3-4 years ago. Since he's married, he dissapeared from the face of this forum I'm only missing some scans/pics of certain parts of Invasion and Baseball to fully simulate those two. The rest of the official released games, i have all i need to proper simulate those. --- Sly DC ---

Hi stupus! Nope, not at all. I'm using the LUA language for my OdySim (Odyssey Simulator) as the odyemu is almost 20 years old and uses a 320x200 display and is DOS only. The main programmer of the odyemu is Paul Robson as DW (david Winter) provided all the technical details of the Odyssey so tha t the odyemu would be the most accurate emulator possible. I did convert all the overlays for the odyemu about 10 years ago and some are horrible once converted to 320x200 (like Haunted House). So this gave me the idea to do my own Odyssey SIMulator (not emulator) and after a few years of learning the LUA language, i've started my simulator project 5 years ago and i've almost finish it (all in my spare times). You can check out all the progress (and downloads) here: http://odysim.blogspot.com I'm using a 800x600 display (by default) and you can resize the OdySim to any size that your PC video card or TV can display but it still 800x600 as the sim stretches the output which the display is still pretty good. Someone on the Hyperspin forum posted many big size overlays (something like 1920x1080 - i think ?) and these is which i used to resize and vector them for the OdySim. For now, all original 12 games packed with the Odyssey are simulated (Football uses more than 40 buttons to simulate all the accessories it uses) and all 4 Rifle Gun games. In the past of a couple of days, i've done some Extra-1972 games and Dodgeball for the OdySim and these are ready to be uploaded today or tomorrow on the OdySim blog: Fun Zoo, Handball, Volleyball (and Dodgeball eventually). So try out the OdySim and LMK what you think of it, thanks! =) --- Sly DC ---

Hi Chris! Do you have still a copy of Captain Bruce for sale ? If yes then please contact me ASAP. As for Dodgeball, i know this one is sold out but you also gave me permission to simulate Dodgeball and i have sent you a preview of the simulator. As today, i have recently updated your game with the new options for the OdySim (change screen resolution, sound, etc) and it's ready to be released with other Odyssey "extra-1972" games. I can send you the newer version before uploading it on my OdySim blog so you can LMK what you think. Keep up the great work! =) --- Sly DC ---

@Kain3n: Hey! a fellow Canuck! A strait answer: Nope! But... in some Pong consoles (other than Coleco ones), i did use a similar circuit to boost the composite video signal (a 10k resistor from the base of the transistor to the ground, a 1K resistor from the emitter to the ground and sometimes a 75 ohms resistor one end between the emitter & 1k junction and the other end to output the video signal - BTW, the transistor is a 2N3904 or 2N2222) and the collector is attached to the Vcc (between 5V to 12V DC). So basically for some Pong consoles, i just use either 3 or4 components (a 10K resistor, a 1K resistor and a 2N3904 or 2N2222 transistor and sometimes a 75 ohms resistor)..that's it! The 7805 isn't needed at all as any 2N3904 or 2N2222 can take a voltage between 0 to 12v easely and the 100uF capacitor, only use if you get some static noises on the screen. I even A/V modded my 6-switch woodgrain Atari 2600 with only 3resistors and a transistor and the video signal is great. But you can do the A/V mod circuit that you attached to your post, this also works but it's uses more parts. BTW to anyone, if you have a Pong console which as either a Texas Instruments TMS1955 or TMS1965, these are EXACT copies of the AY-3-8500 & AY-3-8500-1. AY-3-8500 & TMS1955 are PAL chips and AY-3-8500-1 & TMS1965 are NTSC chips. Give us news on your modding progress! --- Sly DC ---

OUPS!!! Sorry mate! I completely passed-by on your comment. The Coleco Telstar Marksman uses a "AY-3-8512-1" (same as for the Sears Telegames Gunslinger II) and this chip has only 16-pins. This one can be done with an A/V output but the video signal is inverted, so you need to re-invert it with a simple 2N3904 or 2N2222. Before trying to mod your APF TV-Fun, which model is it ? As APF uses different chips depending on their models. And for the Unisonic Tournament 2000, this one uses a AY-3-8500-1 as this one was my very first Pong console i've A/V mod about 15 years ago. --- Sly DC ---

Plugging a Japanese (NTSC) game console on a German (PAL) TV is not the best option as NTSC and PAL are not very compatible. But fear not! Does your German TV can go up to Channel 99 ? If so then try between channel 90 to 99 as some Japanese game consoles/systems works great between channel 93 to 96 (still talking of a CRT TV, not LCD/LED TV's). Just an example, i've tried a Fuji Electric Coca-Cola TV-Game Sportstron between channel 2 to 13 and i just get the game on a channel and the sound can be heard on the next channel! But by tuning between channel 90 to 99, one of these channel (mostly channel 96) works. Even Japanese RF signals doesn't work great on a CND/USA TV (even if Japan and North America uses NTSC), there's still a slight difference between Japan and US RF signals but as composite video, that works like a charm. And again, NTSC composite video on a PAL TV/monitor (or vice-versa) isn't compatible (no color and vertical sync rolls). So try out between channel 90 to 99 and LMK if it works for you. =) --- Sly DC ---

No problem, glad to help out.

Hi scotty, Yes, it can use the same AC adapter (or power supply) as the Atari 2600 since both (and any other Atari dedicated consoles) uses DC 9 Volts/500 milliAmps with positive tip. You too have a Merry Xmas!

Just tried the multicart and it works like a charm! And i tested each games/utilities on the cart and it passes in flying colors. Major Kudos to Flip, ekeefe (TPA correction), stupus (manual & labels) and all homebrewers and dumpers out there, this is worth every pennies!! (and more!) So now that i have dig up my Studio II, i had a mod i wanted to try out for years but never taken the time to test it... until now. And on my first attemp, it worked! What is it ? Simply a "pause" switch! Check the vid: https://youtu.be/4uJJytxtjz0 So now i only have to try out how long can i pause a game and if this damage anything.Back to bench!

Look what i have received today! Now need to dig up my modded RCA Studio II, can't wait to try this! =) Oh and the work made on the multicart is great! Same as the label stickers and the manual. You both get two thumbs up! :thumbsup:

I agree with BassGuitari for the Odyssey 500 and the Atari Super Pong as the Odyseey 500 is very unique (it's a discrete game console with it's own graphic sprites and especially in color) and the Atari Super Pong since the Atari Pong has only one game and this game is available in the Super Pong. Also, any Ultra Pong from Atari is worth owning one as it has at least 16 built-in games. As for the common Pong consoles (either a AY-3-8500-1 or a TMS1955NL as both these chips are identical), they are worth between $10 to $40 depending how many games it has, compete (or not), condition, etc. There is one system that is worth to have but is now expensive, it's the Coleco Telstar Arcade. But what better to see how the games feels and looks like, so here's two links to Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAon6SCAS8QYdhbDDECdkDL6QR9ofuNPM (discrete game consoles) https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAon6SCAS8QbL2RtcYmlc7sqYEC1XBkZc (dedicated game consoles/systems)

Thanks for the info, i must have crap in my eyes not seeing (errr...reading) in the first post....think i'm getting too old. At $40 (cart+shipping), it's a great deal so put my name on the list too. Now, it only missing a front and a back label for those who's going to get a shell with it. Anyone up to designing those labels ? Like this guy (Nishikintoki) on DeviantArt who made a front label and the box cover of a fan-made (non-existant) game called "Race of Speed". Check out the two links: http://nishikintoki.deviantart.com/art/Race-of-Speed-Studio-II-625633565 http://nishikintoki.deviantart.com/art/Race-of-Speed-Cartridge-Studio-II-1977-625634601

Hi flip, Great job you're doing! But i do have a question about it: how much $ are you asking for a multicart ? As for the composite board, i'll pass since both my Studio II and Visicom are already AV modded. =)

Thank you so much Ed! I didn't realise that i've made this error...big "DOH!" on my part! And you are absolutely right as this information comes from the M.E.S.S. site: Toshiba Visicom Console (RCA Studio II clone) Toshiba, 1978 TMM331 - Toshiba TMM331AP 2k x8 MASKROM (DIP24) Pinout: TMM331 |-----\/----| A7 |1 24| VCC A8 |2 23| D0 A9 |3 22| D1 A10 |4 21| D2 A0 |5 20| D3 A1 |6 19| D4 A2 |7 18| D5 A3 |8 17| D6 A4 |9 16| D7 A5 |10 15| E0 (measured LOW) A6 |11 14| E1 (NC?) GND |12 13| E2 (measured LOW) |-----------| E0 - E2 are Programmable Chip Select Inputs TMM331 is compatible with AMI S6831A, AMD AM9217, Intel 2316A/8316A, MOSTEK MK31000, GI RO-3-8316, NATIONAL/NEC/SYNERTEK 2316A etc Cartridges ------------- Inside is a Toshiba TMM331AP ROM, which is pin compatible with the Signetics S6831. The cartridge to TMM331 pin connections are as follows, with cartridge pin 1 being the left most angled contact: Pin 1 to ROM pins 12,13 (GND and E2) Pin 2 to ROM pins 24,15 (VCC and E0) Pin 3 to ROM pin 23 (D0) Pin 4 to ROM pin 22 (D1) Pin 5 to ROM pin 21 (D2) Pin 6 to ROM pin 20 (D3) Pin 7 to ROM pin 19 (D4) Pin 8 to ROM pin 18 (D5) Pin 9 to ROM pin 17 (D6) Pin 10 to ROM pin 16 (D7) Pin 11 to ROM pin 14 (E1) Pin 12 to ROM pin 11 (A6) Pin 13 to ROM pin 10 (A5) Pin 14 to ROM pin 9 (A4) Pin 15 to ROM pin 8 (A3) Pin 16 to ROM pin 7 (A2) Pin 17 to ROM pin 6 (A1) Pin 18 to ROM pin 5 (A0) Pin 19 to ROM pin 1 (A7) Pin 20 to ROM pin 4 (A10) Pin 21 to ROM pin 3 (A9) Pin 22 to ROM pin 2 (A8) Now this is were i've made my mistake as the TMM331AP ROM is pin compatible to a 2316A EPROM, this EPROM is not pin compatible with a 2716, just need to swap the pins and this is were i've made my "booboo"..... DOH!! So here's version 2 of the schematic thanks Ed!):

@stupus: That is so KEWL!!! Never seen in reality any Elf, VIP, Super Elf or Membership Card. Only pictures of them (and again!) Wish they could have been to PAX as it's a 6 hour drive from where i live (i live too far north... ;P ).

@stupus: That's a good question! Maybe... ?! Would need to dissasembled the Toshiba rom dump and also the Toshiba BIOS. And that isn't my cup of tea. Maybe Paul could ?!

While on the subject of RCA Studio II and family, Paul Robson has some extraordinary information regarding the RCA Arcade (or CoinOp) as he has documents about this mystical arcade! And not only that, he also made an emulator of the "FRED" computer with some games to play with...This guy totally ROCKS!!! Major Kudos for Paul!!! =) Check out his blog about the Cosmac CoinOp here: http://cosmaccoinop.blogspot.ca/

The thing about the Toshiba ROMs cartridge is that they are compatible with Eproms (27Cxx) and not like the CDP1831 roms. On an RCA Studio II or Victory-3 (European clones, aka Studio III), is if you use an EPROM, you need two TTL's to make it work BUT...on a Toshiba, those TTL's are already integrated in the system so you just need an EPROM connected directly into the cartridge port as the decoders (the TTL's) are in the system. I've made a schematic to how to connect a 2716 EPROM to the Toshiba cart slot: And here's a picture of the Toshiba PCB: And i have almost finished making a EPROM to cart adapter to try out on the Toshiba to prove it works (or not). But that adapter will have to wait for now. So the multicart that Flip is making can't work on a Toshiba BUT... could work if modified (or making a new one). =)

LOL!!!!! I'm laughing like a stupid hiena who's brain is about to explode, which i completely agree with ianoid...never make an hell of an offer to a seller (or a ridiculous one like $1) as he wrote this on the auction: "... has been referred to as the Holy Grail, an Urban Legend, a Myth and in fact has even been questioned as to its existence at all, some claiming, it was only a rumour that it existed." Well the cat is out of the bag so who's ready to send $3,500.00 on a game that was released in Europe, which if you look at one of the pictures, you see two drawn screenshots of the game and it looks so much like the European release. At least we have very good pictures of the complete game (well only missing one side of the manual) as i'll contemplate those pics. Hey it took 15 years to have those, so enjoy!

No need to imagine, just check this video on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtZEsXrE3Z4 But the game will be in black and white on a Studio II. We didn't get a release here in North America as RCA axed the Studio II only after 9 months (i'm maybe wrong on the time frame) and Bingo was intended to be release here but the programmer programmed the game with color for the Studio III, which you all know that the Studio III(3) are the European releases. Any Studio III(3) games can be played on the Studio II, only thing is that we don't have colors.