RallyMK1

New U6 chips came in today. After removing the old one, I found that the pads looked awfully corroded on the left hand side. Once that was polished up and I confirmed continuity, I soldered on the new U6, and voila! We have a fully working Lynx again. Thanks for the help with narrowing down the offending part. I learned a lot of lessons in the process, and I'll be sure to be less of a shotgun repair tech in the future.

Sorry it took me so long to get back to this. Work has been busy. I have replaced the conductive pad on the ON and OFF buttons, so if I hold ON, I get continuity between TP17 and TP18. U6 7-11 = 100kΩ I think it may be that U6 has failed, possibly due to my backwards cap install. I'll get that ordered and see where that gets me.

It must be displaying differently in a different browser. In chrome, I have it drawn going from 11 to 14. On to the testing: Batteries in, not turned on 7 to 14 = 8.48V 10 = 8.48V 11 = 1.1mV 12 = 1.1mV 13= 8.39V Then, shorting 11-14 to turn it on still does not do anything.

Yes, with a cart in the slot it boots to the game when I have the USB 5V connected directly to C39. With batteries (confirmed working) inserted, if I short Pin 11 to 14 on U6 like this: 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 | C 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 |_______| Nothing happens at all.

This was an updated I posted, but it never got approved by a mod: The power button conductive pad is no longer conductive? Testing continuity from the button traces, I get a beep at both TP17 and TP18, so the contacts on the board make it that far at least. If I press the actual power button, there's no continuity between TP17 and TP18. If I use the pad from a known working button, I get continuity. The system still does not turn on, so there's more going on than just that rubber power button, but that sure is a weird problem. I tried cleaning it with alcohol and rubbing it across a piece of paper, but it didn't revive it. How weird. I did look for bad joints, and re-flowed a couple areas. One bad one was the DC jack, so I replaced that altogether. This is a 1st gen without the front panel flex connector. Very true. It was a shotgun approach that I should have waited on. I'll try that today. I've got a USB wall plug that I'll wire up and report back on. I did read through previous posts, but a lot of them cover the 2nd generation, and while I'm good a soldering, I'm bad at reading schematics, so it's all a learning process. This guy still powers on when I apply the USB 5v power to C23, so I'm hopeful I can get it up and running again. Thanks for the help on this.

Thanks, from what I read, that might be the next step. I've gotta figure out if that backwards cap wrecked anything.

Hey guys, I know there are a lot of posts about power issues with the Atari Lynx, so I apologize for making another one. Anyway! I have a 1st gen Lynx that initially did not power on. I did a cap kit, cleaned the edge connector, and got it to power on no problem. I didn't touch it for about a week. When I got back to it, it was no longer powering on. I ran a 5v connection directly to C23, and confirmed the system still works, but the power buttons do nothing. I cleaned the contacts, no change. I ordered the power stage rebuild kit from console5, and replaced Q11, Q13, Q4, ZD1 and R56. Still, the power buttons did nothing. After re-checking my work, I found that I had C25, down at the bottom of the board, installed backwards. I removed it, tested it, confirmed it was ok, and reinstalled it correctly. Still, power buttons do nothing, but I can confirm the system is able to power on if the legs are shorted on Q11. What should I test and replace next? Thanks for any help in advance!

Hey everyone! Ownership of the troubled 1000EX has changed hands, and now it's in my care. I replaced the 8259A chip (an NEC D8259AC, same as originally present) with a brand new one, but still the error remains. Also, there are no expansion boards present.