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Neo-Rio

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Posts posted by Neo-Rio

  1. OK, I disabled SDX and the PBI BIOS in the U1MB BIOS

    Then I set the SIDE2 switch into the lower position

    Power cycled the XEGS

    SDX from the SIDE2 appeared with the drive set at D3:

    Typed CAR, and the SIDE loader from the cart showed up

    Executed the uflash.exe from there

    Now I can clearly see both flash slots on the SIDE2. A spartados slot and the external cartridge slot.

    I select the External cartridge slot.

    At this point I see the file window, and a search of *.ROM on D1

    ... at this point uflash hangs the computer BAD... None of the keys work (no Tab, No Esc, no nothing)

     

    I tried again, and went back to SDX on the SIDE2

    Tried changing to D1: but there is no drive mounted there.

     

    So.... :_(

  2. Does the prior version of uflash work?

     

     

    Interestingly it doesn't seem to either.... I wonder what is going on?

    Otherwise my XEGS seems fine. I can load ATRs off the SIDE2 no problem.

    I don't think anything has gone wrong with it....

     

    I ran a memory self test and it all passed.

    uflash just refuses to read my U1MB flash, despite the BIOS coming up fine and working and everything.

    How do I fix this?

     

    Hopefully the U1MB hasn't wobbled loose or something. Anyway I can verify this without breaking open my XEGS?

  3. I'm being told that "Unrecognized flash rom detected in Ulitmate 1MB. Set device properties manually?." upon booting the included uflash.xex

    The I'm taken to a screen where I can select flash size.

    I've never seen this before when using uflash in the past.

     

    I have a very recent Lotharek board in my XEGS. What do I do now?

    I assume the flash size is 512K, Not sure about the sector size.....

  4. Managed to get a few dumps of Computer Acquire. I have sent the original WAVs and other dumps and goodies to Farb, so maybe Atarimania can add these.

     

    For everyone else, here's a CAS file.

    This seems to fully work. You can make the program play itself and then run the game at warp speed and it all seems good.

     

    Note that I could only get the game to work on 400/800 hardware in Altirra. There's some onscreen garbage if the cassette runs on a system with only 16K (this is normal as described in the manual)

    Once the game has loaded, just keep pressing Y to get through the HEX screens (I'm not sure what's going on here, but the manual mentions this as normal).

    When it says PLAY GAME?, press Y to start. If you say N to this, it will ask if you want to Y TO SAVE? and you seem to be able to save the game out to cassette!

     

    Have fun. Acquire is a good board game :)

    Perhaps some clever-clogs can make an XEX file that works on XL and XE systems.

    acquire.zip

    • Like 1
  5. Here's the ST post cleanup.

     

    post-46673-0-88660700-1467090312_thumb.jpg

     

    Almost as clean as the XE keyboard (the keys always come up nice), although there is some lingering dirt and blotching remains on the ST case.

    That said, it's night and day better than when I first got it!

    I noticed that one of the screw joins on the top of the case has snapped (nearest the disk drive), and even post-supergluing it may need another look at.

     

    Now to upgrade this baby... although that will be some time off until I can afford it.

    • Like 2
  6. for those reading who have done a U1mb install.. where did you grab your HLT signal from? I would prefer not to solder to the CPU.

     

    I desoldered the CPU on my XEGS, and then soldered a socket back in. Then soldered wire to the pins from under the board. Then it was simple enough to put the CPU into the socket.

  7. Do people usually solder to the CPU while its in the board? or do you take it out to attach the 4 lines?

     

    I desoldered the CPU, then soldered in a socket (My XEGS has nothing socketed)

    Once the socket was soldered in, I was able to solder wires to the pins under the board.

    Then all I had to do was insert the CPU chip into the socket.

  8. Here's the motherboard... and the keyboard's been cleaned up and reassembled.

    Night and day different from the yellowed original.

     

    The motherboard has been cleaned of bugs (literally), and some spider webs.

     

    post-46673-0-76130500-1466743239_thumb.jpg

     

    So... it looks like I'll need to install a blitter, more memory, and a TOS board. Not to mention some mass storage (either ultrasatan or drive emulator)

    Just got to afford all of that now. :_( ... and I have no cash.

    • Like 1
  9. I've an STE that's every bit as yellow as this one :(. Would you mind taking pictures of the process as well as before /after so I can get the fortitude to do this? Thanks. :)

    All I'm using is 40vol creme developer. I can find it fairly easily in chemist shops, and it's active ingredient is hydrogen peroxide. It's simply premade retr0brite.

    You pour it all over the plastic in question, wrap it in plastic wrap, and then put it out in the sun (or under a UV lamp if you have one).

     

    post-46673-0-66568900-1466657445_thumb.jpg

     

    This is the same case and keyboard I took a photo of before. The keys are back to white again.

    The case seems like it is losing it's yellow tinge, but the sunlight here hasn't been great of late, so it will probably need another round in the sun.

    Note that I put sticky tape over the Atari label on the case before I poured the developer on it. I don't want the label getting bleached.

     

    It looks as if it will come up nicely. Now if only the sun will come out again.

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