ajacocks

Thanks, CuloMajia! The STLs are in the other thread on this board: - Alex

Video #3 is now up: https://youtu.be/H1eab47qP3s Is anyone here watching these? - Alex

That's great to hear! I'm doing these updates of @amiman99's original design for those who wish to DIY their own controllers. I'd also be more than willing to assist the both of you, should you need CAD or 3D printing assistance. - Alex

Thanks, @DrVenkman. Out of curiosity, are you planning to start selling them again? Yours looked pretty amazing. I’ll go back and mirror mine, and share them. - Alex

I just uploaded another video in this series: https://youtu.be/Qsv6zPqnLCg Please let me know what you think! - Alex

Out of curiosity, do folks prefer the left-side thumb stick layout? If so, I can mirror this to that layout, and share that, too. I might also make the change that @amiman99 suggested, and extend the retaining tabs around most of the edges of the shell. - Alex

Oh, sorry; I included the .step files, and not the .stl files. You can probably import the STEP files to Blender, using a plugin, as well. I've attached the .stl files here, as well. - Alex Case bottom.stl Case top.stl Button cap.stl

Here are the STLs, and the Fusion 360 drawing, should you want to modify it. The parts not included are @amiman99 originals. Thanks! - Alex 5200 joystick fire btn v6.step Case bottom v7.step Case Top v7.step Case v7.f3z 5200 joystick fire btn v6.f3z

Here is an updated version, showing all the changes: Fusion 360 - 5200 SuperController I didn't re-model your number button caps or the start/pause/restart buttons, yet. They work fine, as is, and I haven't gotten to it. I did adjust the sizes of the cutouts a bit, and realigned the fire buttons, for the right-side thumbtack layout. I also changed the specified screws for some self-drilling plastic screws. Here are some renders, and a photo, as well. - Alex

I am so sorry for your loss. Out best thoughts and wishes go out to you and your family. - Alex

I just published a new video, in which I start to build Dr. Scott M. Baker’s Atari 5200 controller: https://youtu.be/Og82Gg5r95s This will be a multi-part series, I suspect 3 parts. Let me know what you think! - Alex

I completed my re-layout of the right-thumbstick version of the controller. @amiman99 let me know what your thoughts on me sharing my work. I re-drew the top, completely, in Fusion 360. Fusion 360 Model (Top) I fixed the button alignment issue, and changed the edges to chamfers, to print better. - Alex

Thanks for your excellent work, amiman99. I printed it, and it came out very nicely, using supports for the rounded edges. There is an issue with the button layout, though, using the updated rev 0.9 PCB, in at least the right-side thumbstick layout. The fire buttons don't line up with the holes, with the holes being offset to the left and above the actual buttons: You can see the square white button caps, in the bottom right corners of the holes. Those are the tactile button caps that are listed in the BoM. I'll attempt to fix this, and remodel the case in Fusion 360. I'll share the results, of course. Are you OK with me posting the final files on GitHub, PrusaPrinters and Thingiverse? I always license GPLv3, so the results would be fully open source. I'll also publish the F360 source and .step files, for others to use. While I'm at it, the BoM needs a bit of correction, in that it is short one tactile switch, and doesn't include the recommended Sparkfun large tactile buttons. Thanks! - Alex

Looks absolutely fantastic!

Looks pretty fantastic. Very neat design!

Completely understood, mytek! The work that you and the other folks involved have invested in the project is obvious. I completely understand and respect your choices WRT the release of any and all sources, of any kind. - Alex

IMO, selling fully assembled boards and blank PCBs is the way to go. That removes the support questions altogether. - Alex

I recently acquired a fairly nice 1200XL, that seems to work fully, except that the keyboard is 100% nonfunctional. Having read plenty about the 1200XL, I was expecting either a damaged keyboard cable or major Mylar failure. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that 100% of the keys work, when I remove the actual keys and actuate the Mylar with my fingers! Looking at the bottom of the keys, it appears that pressure alone causes the contact to happen, since pressing the pads with a non-conductive object still results in a key press being registered. So, it seems that my keys are not physically making contact with the Mylar. I’m including a picture of the bottom of the keyboard, in case anyone sees something obviously wrong, but I’m somewhat confused. Any suggestions would be welcome. I’m pretty much an Atari 8 bit noob, so please forgive any obvious errors. Thanks! - Alex

Very nice work low_budget! Ordered. - Alex

Looks fantastic! I’m really excited for this. - Alex

Yeah, there was no debug information in the management interface of the C64 Reloaded, because it doesn't really examine the CIAs. It does detailed checks on the 6510, VIC-II and SIDs, which were all working. Just a silly problem, and I should have noticed sooner. I'm glad that being installed backwards didn't fry my CIA. - Alex

Yep, and this was the problem. I didn't notice, but one of the CIAs was installed backwards. Thanks for the suggestion, OLD CS1. You got me thinking in the right direction. - Alex

Interesting. What do you like better about the TC?

Ah, I see. What do you use, instead?

What do you mean? AFAIK, you don’t need to have a 1541 ROM on your SD card/thumb drive, unless you’re using a non-stock (not 1541/1541-C/1541-II) ROM. Am I wrong? - Alex