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toddtmw

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Posts posted by toddtmw

  1. 5 minutes ago, ivop said:

    I once printed this to improve my printer. I suppose this is inbetween :)

     

    IMG_20210111_214816.thumb.jpg.6bf610082854da5472620c5f87f59bf7.jpg

     

    The size of my printbed is pathetically small :D

     

    BTW this is was a Monoprice select clone. A lot of the printable upgrades (also see the fillament guide in semi-transparent blue PETG) are no longer available on thingiverse. I wonder why?

     

    Edit: it has been modded a lot. Only the motors and axis' are original :)

    Thingiverse is ... not good. it's better than anything else, but unfortunately, the bar was not very high so...

     

  2. 29 minutes ago, Mr Robot said:

    And yet I've been using it for over a year and had no issues at all, you also had problems with a metal extruder and I haven't had any issues there either. I remember when I helped you set up your printer when you first got it you had problems calibrating your esteps. It sounds like your whole extruder part needs recalibrating.

     

    As for the gravity thing, I found I got a lot of wear on the extruder where the red triangle is when it feeds from above that I don't get t all when it feeds from the side.

    paths.thumb.png.2cb58a5af784cb39d11f5ea77cda216d.png

    Yep. I added this to help that:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3052488

  3. On 1/8/2021 at 7:43 AM, Mr Robot said:

    Side mount spool (stop wearing out your extruder, make the printer more stable)

    I installed this on my printer and immediately had issues where the extruder wasn't pulling filament. The gear got clogged with plastic and when I tried to remove it to clean it, the head of one of the set screws was rounded out. I was able to gently pry it off, but didn't want to hammer it back on, so I ordered a new aluminum extruder that came with a new gear. But, I'm not sure that side-mount is less stress on the extruder.

     

    Pulling up (ish) from the side seems to take more work than pulling down from above.

     

    -Todd

  4. 19 minutes ago, Gunstar said:

    Like you guys said, to keep an eye on it when I'm not in the office, I guess. I may not need it, as you say, but I'm not always in my office space, except maybe over the winter months like now when my business is slow (mostly landscaping and lawn maintenance with light construction and remodeling sometimes), because it's where my Atari computers are too, so it doubles as my computer-playground. What's the average time for printing, like say, the cartridge holders?

    30 minutes to 36 hours. ;)

     

    Really.

     

    It depends on how fine you print it and how big it is.

     

    This is the "dot matrix" era of 3-D printing.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1
  5. Also, I REALLY like having my Octoprint Camera attached to the bed.

     

    This is what I printed to allow that:

    Bed Mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3166905

    I used arms from this (use whichever length and configuration to put the camera where you want it): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194278/files

    I used this to hold the camera: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2931401

    This is the camera I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WP53K7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And this is the ribbon cable set to get the right length: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SM6JTTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    • Like 1
  6. 6 minutes ago, Mr Robot said:

    When I started I printed every 'upgrade' available, the 'essentials' are the ones I'm still using years later, most of them got tried and discarded.

     

    The hardware upgrades are the ones that take away the frustrations using the ender. Bed leveling with a sheet of paper sucks and the BLTouch was worth every penny to not have to do that any more. The glass bed evens out any imperfections on the build surface, it's grippy during printing and prints almost fall off it when it's cold. The stock extruder is plastic and because of the filament path it wears quickly and tends to crack, the metal replacement is $10 and mine is still going strong years later. Just put them all on your list of things to get eventually.

     

     

    Mine recently decided to kill itself and needs rebuilding, extremes of cold don't play well with an unenclosed printer. I'm taking the opportunity to convert it to direct drive, upgrade the controller board, replace the pi3 with a pi4 & put it in a box

    Which metal extruder did you buy? I bought one that made things worse and just went back to the plastic one.

     

    Thanks.

  7. 1 minute ago, Mr Robot said:

    That's a Sainsmart knockoff Ender 3 pro. I've no idea if that will make any difference to your experiences or not. I guess it depends on Sainsmarts QA and chabuduo

     

    You'll be glad you got the pro, even though the differences are minor (upgraded PSU, stiffer Y axis). 

    Okay. If that is a pro, never mind on the glass bed, I guess.

     

    Mine is not a pro, and it's also the Reality version. So, I guess I don't have that EXACT printer. ;)

  8. 34 minutes ago, Gunstar said:

    Here is a picture of the exact model I purchased, it should be here in a couple of weeks. I ordered two spools of Hatchbox PLA Filament off Ebay too, which will probably last for a minute. Apparently they will take about a week longer to arrive, according to estimates, but by the end of the month, I should be in the 3D printing business!:thumbsup:

    Ender 3 3D printer.jpg

    Nice. I have that exact printer. I'd like to recommend that you consider a glass bed for it. (You will likely need larger binder clips to hold it on.)

    This is the one I bought and I've been pretty happy with it.

     

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F16WPR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    • Like 1
  9. 6 minutes ago, Gunstar said:

    Cool, thanks for the info, I'll take a look at them. What types of filament should I use and avoid? I'll wait a bit yet before pulling the trigger in case others have suggestions so I can choose from a couple...

     

    Also, being a total noob to 3D printing, is an enclosure necessary?

    I just went through my Amazon History earlier today. Since I got a printer in December 2017, I have purchased 61 rolls of filament.

    16 different brands. 25 rolls of hatchbox, 11 rolls of 3D Solutech, 4 Inland. No other brand was purchased more than twice. I have been pretty happy with Hatchbox and the 3D Solutech.

    I purchased 21 different colors, 16 white, 15 black, no other color more than 4 times

    I've averaged $19.08 per roll, or another way to look at that, is I've spent over $1,100 on Filament.

    So, with all of that, my two favorites are Hatchbox and 3D Solutech (in that order).

    • Like 1
  10. On 12/11/2020 at 11:30 AM, zzip said:

    This is my 'flippy' disk for "Beyond Castle Wolfenstein".   It looks shady as hell!   But I swear it's not a pirate copy and was packaged this way inside the standard game box from Muse Software,  including the BASF sleeve.

     

    image.png.5ae75b46290e6219866c0532f5fa05b1.png

    Someone sent me a bunch of stuff to preserve and one was Beyond CW. I imaged the disk. I'm thinking yours might have been a return. Although it was weird that it said it was for Apple IIe, but that was crossed out... It was an Atari disk.

    1794299503_BeyondCastleWolfenstein-MuseSoftware-DiskImage.thumb.png.e513bfb7eb22342160dbcf93bc17f888.png

     

    Maybe they ran out of Atari labels and then ran out of all labels and just started printing them on their dot matrix printer.

  11. 1 hour ago, nemike said:

    Yes, it says Ready at the bottom.  I did try no sd card, it then didn’t say ready, but shouldn’t you be able press something, maybe CFG or something?  I try pressing all over and nonthing ever happens.  But as I said once it goes into screen saver mode I can tap it and it goes back to showing the GUI.

    Try pressing the screen when powering up to reinvoke the screen calibration. 

  12. 7 minutes ago, DrVenkman said:

    I know how to read the caliper, and clearly you were wrong - see the photo of the machine rule above. 

     

    The bottom line is, the SIDE3 shell - like the SIDE2 before it - is too wide to fit easily through the 1200XL cartridge tunnel and, at least in the case of my usual 1200XL, the 90-degree angle cartridge connector guide. 

     

     

    Out of curiosity, what does your calipers look like when it is closed? Because based on the picture you sent, it appears to not be correct compared to the picture with the ruler. 

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