toddtmw
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Posts posted by toddtmw
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8 hours ago, Particle Man said:
Hello -- very inactive user here. I saw someone post on youtube asking for the Electronic Arts version of Ali Baba (and presumably its flip side Return of Heracles) to be ripped? It was an old post, so I don't know if this is still needed. I have an SIO2PC cable, I can try to rip my disks if any are needed? Can someone clue me in if there's a list of what software is still desired / needed to be imaged? I'll give a quick list of the genuine disks I own:
Ali Baba & The 40 Thieves / Return of Heracles flippy (ECA)
Archon (ECA)Astro-Grover (Hi Tech Expressions)
Ballblazer (EPYX) Atari / C64 flippy
Bill Budge Pinball Construction Set (ECA)
Bruce Lee (Datasoft Cat. No. 1220)
Fantastic Four (Green Valley Publishing / ShareData)
Flight Simulator II (subLOGIC)
Flight Simulator II Scenery Disk (subLOGIC)
Jeepers Creepers (Quality Software)
M.U.L.E. Demo Copy (ECA)
Masters Of Time "CAD-331"
Mercenary (Datasoft Cat. No. 1525) Atari / C64 flippy
Mercenary The Second City (Datasoft Cat. No. 1526)
Montezuma's Revenge (BCI Software #9590) C64 / Atari flippy
Silicon Dreams (Firebird)
Speed King (Mastertronic) Atari / C64 same-side
Summer Games (EPYX)
Superman (Main Street Publishing) Atari / C64 flippy
Temple of Apshai Trilogy (EPYX)
Trailblazer (Mindscape) Atari / C64 flippy
Ultima 4 (Origin)
If any are rare and/or need rips let me know?
Hello, @Particle Man
Welcome to the forums.
The first thing I would recommend is that you do not put any of these disks in a drive and use them. We have seen disks that seem to read fine for testing, but when we try to read them for archival purposes, they do not work.
There is a board called the Kryoflux that we use to preserve software with the copy protection intact. What you will find is that if the disk is copy protected and you use an sio2pc cable, it will not be able to read it completely. Kryoflux (along with a PC floppy drive) allows us to read the disk and created an .atx file that will boot in emulators and in some drive emulators on real hardware and work even though the disk was copy protected. It is the best way to preserve the disk contents.
If you do not have one and do not want to purchase one, many board members have them and have volunteered to dump disks that are sent to them.
In order to be considered "preserved", we generally like to see 2 .atx dumps from different sources that are the same.
@farb maintains a database at www.a8preservation.com showing the status of various titles.
Looking at that database:
Ali Baba, it looks like we have dumps, but they have not been verified.
Return of Heracles is Preserved.
Archon is preserved
Astro-Grover (Hi Tech Expressions) - Preserved
Ballblazer (EPYX) Atari / C64 flippy - Preserved
Bill Budge Pinball Construction Set (ECA) - Not verified
Bruce Lee (Datasoft Cat. No. 1220) - Preserved
Fantastic Four (Green Valley Publishing / ShareData) Side A preserved Side 2 not verified
Flight Simulator II (subLOGIC) - Preserved
Flight Simulator II Scenery Disk (subLOGIC) (Is this Scenery Disk 1? If so, it is not preserved)
Jeepers Creepers (Quality Software) - No Dump
M.U.L.E. Demo Copy (ECA) - Doesn't look like they have the demo
Masters Of Time "CAD-331" - Not verified
Mercenary (Datasoft Cat. No. 1525) Atari / C64 flippy - Escape from targ is preserved
Mercenary The Second City (Datasoft Cat. No. 1526) - No Dump
Montezuma's Revenge (BCI Software #9590) C64 / Atari flippy - No dump
Silicon Dreams (Firebird) - Preserved
Speed King (Mastertronic) Atari / C64 same-side - Not verified
Summer Games (EPYX) Preserved
Superman (Main Street Publishing) Atari / C64 flippy - Not verified
Temple of Apshai Trilogy (EPYX) - Preserved
Trailblazer (Mindscape) Atari / C64 flippy - Preserved
Ultima 4 (Origin) - Preserved
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The thing that bothered me about this printer is that when I printed pictures, anything white came out grey. It’s like it wouldn’t just let the white paper be white.
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1 minute ago, jamm said:
Yes, I remember all too well. What you really need is some glossy/smooth paper. I wonder how well glossy inkjet paper would take that thermal transfer material. Do you still have color "ink" cartridges?
Thermal transfer ribbons. ?
yep. I got a couple of NOS ones a while back, I think.
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I have one that works but these do not print well on standard paper and thermal transfer paper is hard to find these days. Especially tractor feed.
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34 minutes ago, tschak909 said:
Nope. sorry. the G in GIF is for Graphics. So the G in GIF should sound like Graphics.
LOGIC!
-Thom
WRONJ!
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Looks nice. Where did you get the sio port?
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Huh. When I was trying to get the driver issue fixed, I moved it to a new USB port. Turns out that port is not USB3. But, even though the cable is also not USB3, moving it back to a USB3 port seems to have fixed the issue.
Who knows...
Nevermind.
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Fun fact. The head cleaning disk "read" fine with no buffering errors...
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@Farb and others,
I'm getting set up to preserve some disks and I was using an already preserved disk as a tester and I'm getting errors. Can anyone help me understand what might be the issue? The output from Kryoflux is below.
I tried another diskette (An 810/1050 master diskette) and that one gave the buffering error on every other "track". I assume that means one whole side, assuming the back. But, if the back is unformatted, it shouldn't get buffering errors, should it?
I tried a third disk and that got buffering errors right off the bat.
HELP!
C:\Users\micro\Downloads\kryoflux_3.00_windows\dtc>dtc -p -ftest12345678\track_ -g2 -y -i0 -i2 -k2 -b-8 KryoFlux DiskTool Console, v3.00_Win32, uiv.1, Apr 15 2018, 23:45:03 (c) 2009-2018 KryoFlux Products & Services Ltd. Developed by The Software Preservation Society, www.softpres.org Licensed for private, non-commercial use only. -8.1[00]: frev: 23818, drift: 438.799 us, tfer: 170782 B/s, rpm: 360.543 -8.1[00]: band: 1.694 us, 12.905 us, 14.127 us?, 15.229 us?, 16.337 us? -8.1[00]: base: 2.000 us [0.000%], band: <invalid> -7.1[01]: frev: 23653, drift: 443.809 us, tfer: 168195 B/s, rpm: 360.546 -7.1[01]: band: 1.501 us, 4.352 us, 13.272 us, 14.705 us, 15.793 us -7.1[01]: base: 2.176 us [24.540%], band: 4.352 us -6.1[02]: frev: 24076, drift: 502.068 us, tfer: 171497 B/s, rpm: 360.550 -6.1[02]: band: 1.567 us, 4.776 us?, 13.555 us, 15.072 us, 16.181 us -6.1[02]: base: 2.000 us [0.000%], band: <invalid> -5.1[03]: frev: 24011, drift: 494.377 us, tfer: 170161 B/s, rpm: 360.546 -5.1[03]: band: 1.651 us, 13.030 us, 14.179 us?, 15.177 us?, 16.056 us -5.1[03]: base: 2.000 us [0.000%], band: <invalid> -4.1[04]: frev: 24119, drift: 417.207 us, tfer: 172037 B/s, rpm: 360.544 -4.1[04]: band: 1.701 us, 9.822 us?, 13.080 us, 14.736 us?, 15.806 us -4.1[04]: base: 2.000 us [0.000%], band: <invalid> -3.1[05]: frev: 24212, drift: 450.452 us, tfer: 172763 B/s, rpm: 360.548 -3.1[05]: band: 1.676 us, 5.002 us, 14.237 us?, 15.106 us, 16.143 us? -3.1[05]: base: 1.667 us [16.700%], band: <invalid> -2.1[06]: frev: 24308, drift: 430.375 us, tfer: 172581 B/s, rpm: 360.546 -2.1[06]: band: 1.662 us, 6.315 us, 13.367 us?, 14.613 us?, 15.756 us -2.1[06]: base: 2.105 us [28.086%], band: 6.315 us -1.1[07]: frev: 24899, drift: 448.554 us, tfer: 174605 B/s, rpm: 360.548 -1.1[07]: band: 1.615 us, 4.118 us?, 11.580 us, 13.628 us?, 15.056 us -1.1[07]: base: 2.000 us [0.000%], band: 4.118 us? 00.0 : Control command rejected by the device 00.0 : The streaming device reported a buffering error 00.0 : Control command rejected by the device 00.0 : The streaming device reported a buffering error 00.0 : Control command rejected by the device 00.0 : The streaming device reported a buffering error 00.0 : Control command rejected by the device 00.0 : The streaming device reported a buffering error 00.0 : Control command rejected by the device 00.0 : The streaming device reported a buffering error 00.0 : Read operation failed 00.1[08]: The streaming device reported a buffering error 00.1[08]: The streaming device reported a buffering error 00.1[08]: Control command rejected by the device 00.1[08]: The streaming device reported a buffering error 00.1[08]: Read operation failed User aborted
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You could also remove one at a time until the problem goes away to tell which is the bad one. (You’d need to use a game that fits in 32k of ram...)
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On 6/13/2020 at 6:48 PM, leech said:
Oh, that was just an insert. Here is the actual disk label.
1-800-OKI-DATA is still Oki Data customer support. You should call and ask if they can send you a new disk on the printer you just opened.
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Just as long as everyone pronounces .gif as jif. Otherwise, you are dead to me. ?
There is no argument that can beat the alliteration of jif and jpeg.
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2 minutes ago, Bill Loguidice said:
It's the same high quality as the Legends Ultimate. For those saying it's pricey for a streaming box that has 150 built-in licensed arcade and console games and supports ArcadeNet, BYOG, online leaderboards, streaming, etc., and comes bundled with a wireless arcade-style controller (that can be used with other devices) with two sets of joysticks, two sets of 8 buttons, two pairs of pinball buttons, and a trackball for just $199.99 ($249.99 after June 30), and says that's too much, I think they need to re-evaluate a few things. It's probably the same people who don't think the Legends Ultimate or Legends Pinball is a good value, even though they exceed anything else remotely in their price points.
The Tankstick is $199 with basically the same controls. But that's all. No streaming box, no wireless, etc. So, given that, if the quality is similar between the tankstick and the Legends. The Legends is a good deal.
Is the "guts" the same as the cabinet? IOW, will it take all the same firmware updates and have the same features? If so, given the positive reviews on all of that, this is a proven "Good Deal"!
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Hmm. Not likely to print on something as small as an Ender 3 (220mm) unless it can possibly be printed on its front, diagonally...
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Have you given thought to a case? What are the dimensions of the board? (Thinking of 3-D printer footprint...
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I just ordered 3 from oshpark for like $5. (Total for 3)
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I bought something from someone in Canada that shipped on May 17th. It is expected to arrive today (2.5 weeks later). I live in Ohio, which is actually fairly close to Canada compared to other states.
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9 hours ago, Faicuai said:
Howdy!
Almost forgot this one...
It is here!
Original media seems intact, boots well, as both have (what seems) a bad-sector at Track 37 ($02AC, to be precise). Does not seem to read more than that one, and as soon as it comes in, it finishes loading.
Upon closer examination, it seems the on-board protection mechanism deployed by PeachTree is not trivial: it appears to be synthetizing and self-modifying its code on a specific address, from where it jumps to actual internal code of the SW....
If anyone has any specific feedback for archiving, please, PM-me at your earliest convenience.
I can also post the .ATRs I extracted (minus bad-sector) for anyone to give a look at them....
It would be best if you could find someone nearby who has a Kryoflux to dump it. I live in Ohio, which isn't exactly driving distance.
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I upgraded mine to the @MrMartian 1.2.05 version. It works great! Formatted double-density ultra speed and it just flies without even loading anything else (I put the sram charger in there too...)
BITD, I got a RANA and then later got an Indus. the Indus was always my favorite. I liked it so much better than the Rana in all regards. (The Rana was ALWAYS drive 2!) Now that I've looked inside both of them, (As well 810's, 1050's and XF551's) I'm really impressed with the way the Indus is designed and laid out. You can move the drive mech out of the way for other repairs by simply removing a single ribbon cable. Much more elegant than any of the other designs.
The only thing I don't like about the Indus (after looking at it inside and after using it) was that stupid drive cover/door. I never closed it because it was always just in the way. Even when it was open, it was dumb and made stacking drives problematic. It's engineered cheaply compared to the rest of the drive. Everything about it feels like a mistake. So many times I was tempted to just open the drive and remove it. I almost did it when I was working on this one just now, but nostalgia made me keep it on there.
I'm also impressed (and a little worried) that it doesn't have any vent holes on the top. Did these overheat BITD?
Thanks to a great community for making things like this available and supporting people that are learning to use these tools!
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On 5/16/2020 at 5:05 PM, Jeffrey Worley said:
Does the Indus have some kind of a cache? Maybe one sector?, my RPM tool shows 323, when I knew if I take it out of Config.sys (Indus.sys), I get 288 without Indus.sys or HSIO on, which is right). With hsio I get the right number from the Rana, so there seems to be some kind of caching going on, buffering. Oh, and check this out:
A drive programmed with Indus.sys can be crashed such that it has to be power-cycled to come back. Try
Hi. When I was working on my Indus a metal disk came loose off the large silver thing (motor?)
That rust-colored thing under it looks like it was double-faced tape or something similar. It was no longer sticky on either side. I used a little dab of super glue on both sides of it to stick it back on.
Is it possible, that if that falls off, the drive doesn't work well with the metal cover on?
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I am unable to format a disk with the Rana with the most recent firmware posted here.
I tried SD and DD in SDX. (I've not used SDX much, so it could be user error... I used the format command) I selected Atari mode. I also selected Ultra speed. But after the format it says the drive does not support ultra speed, then it says it does not support high speed, then it switches to normal and tries again and fails.
I booted DOS 2.5 and it is unable to format a disk in ED or SD. (It just keeps formatting over and over again until I hit the break key.)
These are NOS disks that I have not had issues with in the past.
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2 minutes ago, mozzwald said:
Looks close. If you have a .4mm nozzle, make sure there's at least that much distance b/w the symbols and other cut outs.
I used 1mm x 1mm "pixels" to draw the symbols and then a box 1 mm bigger around it. I ungrouped the model to find where the holes for the buttons are and then centered the symbols on that.
I started a print.
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17 minutes ago, mozzwald said:
I print all the cases with the outside facing down towards the bed. The connectors are both printed with the pcb side (side with the flanges) down. No supports on anything.
The area where the pins go in the plug needs a little cleanout as the first layer (which is halfway up) doesn't always bridge well and has some stringy/dangley bits.
If there's room on the front you could try doing recessed icons instead of raised
Good to know. I'll print it that way next time. But really, I like the connectors in a different color, I was just printing to see what it would look like.
I might print the half I modified above to see how it turns out with the recessed logos.
-Todd
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1 hour ago, jamm said:
You could use blocky ATASCII heart/spade/diamond.
I love that idea!
Challenge is the stripes. You kind of have to fill part of them in to get the symbols to show. This could be tweaked some, but this is a quick attempt to show what it might look like.
Thoughts?
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Early 800 bragging rights...
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
Can someone please convert this to English?
Thank you.