toddtmw

I love that idea! Challenge is the stripes. You kind of have to fill part of them in to get the symbols to show. This could be tweaked some, but this is a quick attempt to show what it might look like. Thoughts?

Yeah, I was lazy and printed all four parts at once and the one connector needed supports for the flanges (or would need them for the inside of the connector) so it all printed with support on. I'm sure it would have been fine if I had printed the shell different without supports.

Does someone have a list of what each button does for press and press/hold? I'd be happy to do this. If you can send me links to the tinkered for the other two, I can import them and take a shot at it and share it back for your review.

So, for reset, maybe a circle with an arrow pointing back to the beginning. For rotate an arrow pointing from left to right. And the third button could just have a question mark? ?

What are the three holes on the back? They do not seem to line up to anything on the motherboard. Also, I haven't been following the actual board design, but there are three buttons along the top. Should the case have some sort of indicator what those three buttons do? I know it won't be as clean if you try to add that, but most of us are getting up in years and might appreciate a little guidance... ?

I printed this yesterday. While I understand the desire to have the Atari 800 lines, it actually makes it harder to get a decent print. You either need to hope your printer can do really good bridging or you need to print with supports and then removing the supports in. such a small space is challenging. Other than that, the fit on this model is incredible. The connectors fit perfectly very tight tolerances all around, but enough to ensure it goes together. @mozzwald you did a great job on this! Very impressive!

Now, if I could just figure out where these extra 4 screws go...

Thanks. I bought a different programmer (GQ 4x4)that supports up to 25 volt and programmed a 2732 successfully with it, so I'm done with that useless 866. Just stupid that they would change it to only go to 18V.

I can't get either to play in Safari, but in Chrome, they are both download links and when I download them they play.

Somehow I ended up with 4 extra screws that I do not know where they go. As I re-assembled, I put the six screws (1 near each corner and 2 holding down components) that screws the motherboard to the metal tray/bottom. Then I put the 4 screws that hold the drive mechanism to the metal tray/bottom. Then I put the 2 screws that hold the faceplate on. At this point, I have 2 sheet metal screws to hold the back plate on and 2 sets of 4 machine screws (look like they might be the same size). One set would hold the top of the drive to the metal tray/bottom. Where do the other 4 screws go? Thanks.

Whoops. Somehow I missed this. Time to burn again!

Well, I replaced the crystal and burned the ROM. Here is a vide I took before I made any changes to the drive. IMG_0872.mov Here is a video after the updates. IMG_1109.mov The beeps sound different, but not really much faster. It maybe loaded DOS a few seconds faster. I assume I have to do something else to see a more pronounced speed difference?

Yeah. I tried that too. Didn’t work. I’m thinking this 866 programmer isn’t working. when I get the Atari one or the GQ one hopefully I’ll have better luck.

Okay. I just ordered my third burner. A GQ-4X V4. Hopefully this one will work.

I receive NMC27C32Q-45 chips today. According to this datasheet: https://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/-73715321934328814 It looks like this is programmed at 12.5 volts. When I select NMC27C32Q from the software for my TL866II-Plus, it defaults to 18. I set it to 12.5, and it gets an error on the first byte verification. Is there a trick to programming a 27C32 with this thing? Thanks.

No.

Seems to work fine for me. I just opened terminal, CD'ed to the xformer10 directory and then typed: wine64 xformer10-x64.exe

I am unable to play these. Is it just me?

I got an Indus GT after I got a Rana 1000. And compared the Rana, the Indus was much better. I really did not have any issues with it at all. Sorry not much help, but it was (and with the new ROMs and mods still is) a pretty nice drive.

This looks pretty cool. Would it be easier, would there be an interest, would it even be helpful to create something that is the first part of this and then translates on the other side to something that is still readily available? In other words, let people create hardware with, say a DB25 on it, and then plug a straight-through adapter that plugs into the DB-25 and then has this plug on it? By eliminating the need to right-angle and make it solderable, does it make it any easier? Just thinking out loud...

@mozzwaldHave you sourced the pins? I tried to do something similar and had trouble finding suitable pins.

I think I know. Somehow I stumbled across this this weekend. Here is the full article: https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en&fromgroups=#!msg/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting/CM2NOlsqxcQ/v2fl1Ek8rYsJ

I highly recommend @tf_hh's Syscheck 2.2. It does so much more than expand the memory. It plugs into the expansion port on an XL or XE (There are versions for each one, and one that works with both.) I have one and love how it works. It is pretty much plug and play. Just have to run a wire to the joystick port for power. All information on that, and on other cool upgrades for 8-bit Atari stuff can be found here: http://www.van-radecke.de/STUFF/tfhh_HW_info.pdf The thread on the syscheck is here: -Todd

I just ordered 27c32-45's Saturday. Probably the same seller. And they were pretty cheap. Hopefully they will work with my Rana.

S-Drive max is great, AVG too. But really, I like Lotharek’s Sio2PC. You likely have all your stuff on your PC. To me, it’s just so easy to use it even if you eventually get a real drive. Todd