toddtmw
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Posts posted by toddtmw
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1 hour ago, jamm said:
The buttons will have some additional functionality depending on whether you hold them for a short amount of time or long.
Does someone have a list of what each button does for press and press/hold?
1 minute ago, mozzwald said:If I have time, maybe. Or someone else could add them ? The dual functionality might be tricky to have a specific icon for tho and I'm not sure if they're set in stone yet
I'd be happy to do this. If you can send me links to the tinkered for the other two, I can import them and take a shot at it and share it back for your review.
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So, for reset, maybe a circle with an arrow pointing back to the beginning.
For rotate an arrow pointing from left to right.
And the third button could just have a question mark? ?
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19 minutes ago, mozzwald said:
I printed this yesterday also
and it turned out quite well without supports. I have a Maker Select Plus (Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus clone) which I think is an average 3D printer and is currently in dire need of a cleaning and adjustment 
Thanks! Much time went into making everything fit right. I had some help from @Mr Robot.
And here's a shot of the whole family together. Note, these XL and XE cases are high quality, professionally printed in Nylon SLS and MJF and tumbled. The XL case was painted with Rust-Oleum Heirloom White and the XE case is not painted.
What are the three holes on the back? They do not seem to line up to anything on the motherboard.
Also, I haven't been following the actual board design, but there are three buttons along the top. Should the case have some sort of indicator what those three buttons do? I know it won't be as clean if you try to add that, but most of us are getting up in years and might appreciate a little guidance... ?
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On 5/25/2020 at 4:19 PM, mozzwald said:
I've made the Tinkercad project for the 400/800 style case available at https://www.tinkercad.com/things/em1ifQgQYaB
I printed this yesterday. While I understand the desire to have the Atari 800 lines, it actually makes it harder to get a decent print. You either need to hope your printer can do really good bridging or you need to print with supports and then removing the supports in. such a small space is challenging.
Other than that, the fit on this model is incredible. The connectors fit perfectly very tight tolerances all around, but enough to ensure it goes together. @mozzwald you did a great job on this! Very impressive!
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Now, if I could just figure out where these extra 4 screws go...
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Thanks. I bought a different programmer (GQ 4x4)that supports up to 25 volt and programmed a 2732 successfully with it, so I'm done with that useless 866.
Just stupid that they would change it to only go to 18V.
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I can't get either to play in Safari, but in Chrome, they are both download links and when I download them they play.
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Somehow I ended up with 4 extra screws that I do not know where they go.
As I re-assembled, I put the six screws (1 near each corner and 2 holding down components) that screws the motherboard to the metal tray/bottom.
Then I put the 4 screws that hold the drive mechanism to the metal tray/bottom.
Then I put the 2 screws that hold the faceplate on.
At this point, I have 2 sheet metal screws to hold the back plate on and 2 sets of 4 machine screws (look like they might be the same size). One set would hold the top of the drive to the metal tray/bottom.
Where do the other 4 screws go?
Thanks.
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On 5/17/2020 at 8:15 PM, MrMartian said:
So okay, here's a new release. A few bugs fixed, code a bit more optimized. Still only shows 'F' on format, because so far it looks quite ugly trying to display the track while doing so.
Whoops. Somehow I missed this. Time to burn again!
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Well, I replaced the crystal and burned the ROM. Here is a vide I took before I made any changes to the drive.
Here is a video after the updates.
The beeps sound different, but not really much faster. It maybe loaded DOS a few seconds faster. I assume I have to do something else to see a more pronounced speed difference?
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Yeah. I tried that too. Didn’t work. I’m thinking this 866 programmer isn’t working.
when I get the Atari one or the GQ one hopefully I’ll have better luck.
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Okay. I just ordered my third burner. A GQ-4X V4. Hopefully this one will work.
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I receive NMC27C32Q-45 chips today. According to this datasheet:
https://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/-73715321934328814
It looks like this is programmed at 12.5 volts.
When I select NMC27C32Q from the software for my TL866II-Plus, it defaults to 18. I set it to 12.5, and it gets an error on the first byte verification.
Is there a trick to programming a 27C32 with this thing?
Thanks.
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7 hours ago, unebonnevie said:
Hi,
Thank you for this great project. Will the below work. I don't want a Arduino board or any touch screen stuff. I just want the below SIMPLE board like below.
1) Get an ATMEGA328P, flash the eeprom_writer.hex and the SDrive.hex.
2) Wire the pins of the ATMEGA328P as indicated on the web site https://atari8bit.net/everything-sdrive-max/ to the Atari SIO connector's pins.
3) Then wire the MISO/MOSI/SCK/SS pins of the ATMEGA328P to my SD CARD adapter.
4) Wire all the ATMEGA328P pins to the buttons shown in the image.
5) Wire all the ATMEGA328P pins to the LEDs shown in the image.
My questions are:
1) Is there a firmware version available that does not have the touch screen stuff in it with the buttons and LEDs handling?
2) Can my entire board, as described above, can run with 3.3V at 16Mhz for the ATMEGA328P? Basically, I take the +5V from the Atari's SIO connector and feed it to an LDO to have 3.3V to power the ATMEGA328P and the SD CARD.
3) I can simply copy the sdrive.atr file into the SDCard, and the Atari computer will load this diskette file, so that I can run a menu program on the Atari computer?
4) Is there a schematic already available for the simple SDMax board I described above?
Many thanks!
No.
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Seems to work fine for me. I just opened terminal, CD'ed to the xformer10 directory and then typed:
wine64 xformer10-x64.exe
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On 4/13/2020 at 11:06 PM, Faicuai said:
...On IndusGT (Ramcharged), courtesy of SDX 4.49 (2020).
No cables, no soldering, no nothing. Just sliding in the RamCharger on the right-flank pin-header and firing up INDUSX.SYS from final SDX 4.49 load.
These are all .MOV clips from iOS:
NOTES:
- These are Single-Density (128-bytes) formatted transfers.
- With Double-Density (256-bytes) tracks, throughput is HIGHER.
- The whole Draconus file is swallowed on-board by the IndusGT.
- I presume limit is around 50-55 KBytes...
Enjoy!
I am unable to play these. Is it just me?
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I got an Indus GT after I got a Rana 1000. And compared the Rana, the Indus was much better. I really did not have any issues with it at all.
Sorry not much help, but it was (and with the new ROMs and mods still is) a pretty nice drive.
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This looks pretty cool.
Would it be easier, would there be an interest, would it even be helpful to create something that is the first part of this and then translates on the other side to something that is still readily available?
In other words, let people create hardware with, say a DB25 on it, and then plug a straight-through adapter that plugs into the DB-25 and then has this plug on it?
By eliminating the need to right-angle and make it solderable, does it make it any easier?
Just thinking out loud...
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@mozzwaldHave you sourced the pins? I tried to do something similar and had trouble finding suitable pins.
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19 minutes ago, Jeffrey Worley said:
I know for sure that my TMS2732's don't work.
I think I know. Somehow I stumbled across this this weekend.
QuoteAs the story goes, TI developed the TMS-2716 (2K Eprom),
but like the 2708 before it, it needed three voltages sources
to program/use them . This was more complicated and therefore more
expensive.At roughly the same time, Intel also launched "their" 2716 chip
which was different than the TMS-2716 in that it only needed
a single voltage to program (25v) and a 5V to operate.
The Intel pinout was also a bit different than the TMS pinout.Akin to the Beta Vs. VHS battle, only one could survive
and Intel proved to be the more popular, and thus, most
other manufacturers produced Intel-like 2716.Bowing to pressure, TI also produced an Intel-like chip
but could not call it 2716 since they already had a 2716.
So they identified it as the TMS-2516.
And thus was born the 25xx series.Recap :
TMS-2516 = Intel (and all other) 2716
TMS-2716 != other 2716
TI specific, limited use (..in arcade games anyways..)Unfortunately, the story doesn't end there...
After the 2K chips came the 4K chips (xx32)
Intel simply used the same pinout as it's 2716
and added an extra addressing pin, thus the 2732.TI again decided to use a different pinout
and to differentiate itself from the Intel 2732,
it named it the TMS-2532.So 2532 != 2732
Virtually all 2532 you'll find are TI chips.
Only very few manufacturers other than TI made 2532.
(...I've only ever seen Motorola )Most everyone again followed Intel's lead to create the 2732.
Here is the full article:
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I highly recommend @tf_hh's Syscheck 2.2. It does so much more than expand the memory. It plugs into the expansion port on an XL or XE (There are versions for each one, and one that works with both.)
I have one and love how it works. It is pretty much plug and play. Just have to run a wire to the joystick port for power.
All information on that, and on other cool upgrades for 8-bit Atari stuff can be found here:
http://www.van-radecke.de/STUFF/tfhh_HW_info.pdf
The thread on the syscheck is here:
-Todd
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25 minutes ago, Jeffrey Worley said:
Anyone else notice that there are milspec parts in their Rana? I have a couple of 54-series ttl logic parts in mine. Just ordered some milspec 27c32-45 eproms too. Coincidence. The eproms were cheap.
I just ordered 27c32-45's Saturday. Probably the same seller. And they were pretty cheap. Hopefully they will work with my Rana.
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S-Drive max is great, AVG too.
But really, I like Lotharek’s Sio2PC.
You likely have all your stuff on your PC. To me, it’s just so easy to use it even if you eventually get a real drive.
Todd
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I’m about a week away from being able to test (hopefully!)
Todd
and it turned out quite well without supports. I have a Maker Select Plus (Wanhao Duplicator I3 Plus clone) which I think is an average 3D printer and is currently in dire need of a cleaning and adjustment 
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#FujiNet Hardware Discussion
in #FujiNet SIO Network Adapter
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Yeah, I was lazy and printed all four parts at once and the one connector needed supports for the flanges (or would need them for the inside of the connector) so it all printed with support on. I'm sure it would have been fine if I had printed the shell different without supports.