RestoLynx

No problems at all

Simple and elegant solution, that is well documented. Well done.

Brilliant work, they look fantastic on my McWill modded II.

Good call, thanks

I've converted my lynx II to use the adafruit usb charger and LiIon batteries; but not content with that I was thinking: Can I install an inductive charger, so I'm not using the usb port? So I've ordered a generic qi usb reciever from ebay and I'll see if I can stuff it into the back somewhere, wish me luck. In the meantime can you see any potential issues with this, open to input. Thanks

How do you stick the grips to the Lynx II? I tried hot glue, but it came off after two weeks and I don't want to glue it permanently. Thanks

They do ship to the eu from the shop, not etsy: Do you offer international shipping?Yes. You can get a quote for shipping charges during checkout before paying. Typically we ship everything using USPS International Priority Mail which is a 7 to 10 day delivery service and is fully insured for the value of the contents.

I'd be interested, but you are looking at a very small subset of people who have upgraded their Lynxs! (For people looking at this thread in the future : The batteries I used were two 18650s from a drill battery pack, running in parallel)

Done and working perfectly!! 5V across C41 and it is running well. At the moment I' switching it off by connecting the EN to GND (see below), I'll put in a switch in a while. As an aside; I measured voltage across C41 when i was putting 5V into the 9V side, and it was 4.6V.

Thanks for the reply I didn't have the EN connected to ground . Perhaps I should forget about using the 9v side in the Lynx and just put the powerboost straight into the 5V side of the circuit, across C41; this would eliminate the voltage losses. I think the only downside is that I lose the On|Off button functionality (the reason I started this thread!), but I can hack something together using the EN pins and a switch or re-purpose the existing On|Off buttons. Thoughts?

It's 2 Amps, which should be enough. The behaviour is the same whether it is running from usb or the charged LiIon batteries.

How about I bypass D9, the reverse protection diode? that should get me another 0.7V if I'm at the lower limit of voltage? I'm not going to be using the AC adaptor, or AA batteries and I can remove the bypass if I decide to go back. Is this a terrible idea or a great solution?!!

Ok, that 9v module didn't work, I'm guessing that it isn't supplying enough current as I get the flashing battery light. I got a Powerboost 1000c but I'm having a lot of trouble; it only seems to be capable of starting the lynx about 10-20% of the time, it's infuriating, the rest of the time the screen (McWill) just shows garbage, once it starts it stays running happily. Whether the batteries are connected or it's running off usb it's the same behaviour. I made the power wires thicker and it worked for a while(on the bench), but then when I popped it into the lynx and tidied up the wires it went back to its old ways. I'd appreciate any thoughts you might have, ask me questions, I feel like I'm missing something here.

Wonder is it a timing issue with the clock? McWill is the one to ask on this one, he is the video king!

VGA isn't a regional standard like NTSC vs. PAL. it will work on any VGA device if it is within the correct range. But don't believe me, I'm just a stranger on the internet, have a google and you'll see there there isn't any regions associated with VGA.

I had a sudden dead sound problem, turned out to be a dry solder joint on the power to the sound board, see here for the saga: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/262448-lynx-ii-tracing-a-sound-problem/ skip to the end for the update.

If you've never soldered before do not start with a screen mod to the Lynx, have a go at a few other projects first. You'll also need more than a soldering iron, as you need to desolder too (de-solder braid), as was said above the Lynx is easier to work on and forgiving. Forget about doing the GG screen until you're a bit more skilled up, it is an amazing modification, brilliantly designed, however you'll be trying to desolder components the size of a third of a grain of rice. A good start would be recapping the Lynx, that was fun and makes a difference. Get an iron, desolderbraid, solder and flux... have a look at a few tutorials mess around with some old junk and then start, do one at a time.

(probably the wrong thread but...) Just did a Game gear, very successful, but you need good light, a steady hand and magnification. TBH I had some confusion around VCC and GND, as it was marked on the backlight potentiometer as being there (I presume for the VGA mod), where in fact it was to be taken off the cartridge connector.

So I tested this last night on my Lynx II with unmodified transistor/diode and I got to 6v, the next step down on my powerbrick was to 4.5 and it gave up below the 5v. Happy days, now I'll start messing around with usb and a Li-Ion

Wow, well done. Do you think it would power if you hadn't replaced the transistor/zerer? might give that a go later tonight...

How about this, it takes usb at 5v, charges an 18650 (or two if you run in parallel) and outputs 9v http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-Lithium-Li-ion-18650-Battery-Charger-Module-3-7v-4-2v-Boost-Step-Up-9V-6F22-/252555626825

Looking for some advice: Was thinking of using an Adafruit powerboost for my Lynx, bypassing the 9v circuitry, but the problem is that the original on/off buttons don't work then, correct? The Powerboost will switch on if the EN pin is brought to battery voltage and off if grounded, is that correct? If so could you not re-purpose the on and off button to connect the powerboost to Batt+ and GND, or are they hardwired in the flex circuit preventing that? (Of course another hacky way to do it would be to boost the 5v from the powerboost to 9v using a DC-DC converter like this, I'd lose a load of efficiency and I'd have to switch off the powerboost separately... actually.. that is a terrible idea...) Thanks

Just to round off this thread: I desoldered where I could but under the cartridge slot was too tricky to get to, so I just bent the shield and snapped that side at the legs. For the moment I've left the shield off, think it is just to pass regulations and I haven't noticed any ill effects.

Did mine over the weekend, very happy with the result. I had two small issues; the first was that there was some coating over the GND contact under the ribbon cable, so it wouldn't take solder. I tried to flux it up and then used circuit board cleaner and a wipe but it only took a tiny amount of solder, instead I used the GND over by the VGA connector. The second issue was I had no idea how to remove the ribbon cable, so i just left it in as I didn't want to break it by forcing it. Before After:

Fantastic... PM on the way