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Polish.Gasoline

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Posts posted by Polish.Gasoline

  1. Hi,

    I just did a cap kit on jr. and the only thing that ain't working is the led.  It wasn't working before either.  I put a 12 volt from china on there and it ain't lighting up.  I tested the led with a diode function on the tester and it read .81.  I took a resistance test and I got OL.

     

    It's in reverse?  Lol?  Thanks.

    16048140584323850898536017881853.jpg

  2. Hi again,

    I just received the led ribbon connector in the mail and I tried to see if I would need to remove the part where it disconnects and seems like a snug fit. 

    Now I go on to my questions:

    Where on the diagram is all the connections on the logic board for the ribbon cable are? In the second picture if the two circled are supposed to have continuity with each other?

    Thanks!

    Intellivision-Service-Manual-Schematic (1).png

    20200523_174543.jpg

  3. I'm quite confident it is the ribbon connector.  It is quite in bad shape.  I've asked console5 if there was a replacement when it was working and he had said no, not yet.  Which is quite some time ago.  I'm kind of pissed that when I fix something another problem appears.  Oh well.  Is there a way to fix it?  I could hardwire it.  Did I answer my own question?   Lol.  I do not plan on taking it apart again   I had fixed and cleaned everything, replaced the capacitors.  So yeah.  It's just this ribbon connector.  It was working fine till I had placed the shielding on.

  4. It's most definately not dirty.  Could it be the ribbon cable?  I cleaned it it and it did not solve the black screen issue.  I cleaned the game as well.  The ribbon cable has continuity so I'm really stuck.

     

    I cleaned it with sandpaper and a old t shirt with a credit card also a eraser over a cartridge.  It did nothing.  The screen doesn't even flicker when I hit reset.

  5. Hi again, I have some time the next couple days to tinker with this.  It was working fine with the phono replacement until I put the top shielding on.  I also had to fidget with the phono plug for it to work.  It changed from a black screen to a title screen.  It no longer does that.  I tried resoldering the resistor on the phono plug.  Left the shielding off the screen was black.  Did I f up something by putting the sheilding on?  Thanks in advance for input 

     

    Edit: The black spot is from previous transistors that has been replaced, quite some time ago.

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  6. Update.

     

    I was taking apart the intellivision and took off the toasted rf jack.  I have one problem.  The hole is too small.  On to my question.

     

    If I desolder the bottom off will it take off the middle?  There is the top, the middle and the bottom (Which is on the board.)  I want to know before proceeding so I can drill a bigger hole.  It would give me some relief I didn't leave some metal shavings when I am done.

     

    Btw when I'll test in summer I meant with a bigger stash of games.

  7. 55 minutes ago, intvsteve said:

    Cool. Do you have SNAFU? The “hissing” sound can cause interference, too. I’ve seen static appear when certain sounds play and the games I’ve mentioned do it most noticeably. 
     

    RF modulators from Intv it:

    http://leftturnonly.info/rf_modulators.html

    Unfortunately, no not at this time.  I usually store my inty at a cottage and the games I listed are the only ones I have on me at this time.  However it worked fine until the q tip situation.?  I have astrosmash and snafu.  I will have to wait till summer.

  8. 2 hours ago, intvsteve said:

    Looks like you're in luck:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASTEC-UM1285-8-VHF-Intercarrier-Vestigial-Sideband-Modulator/183862312802?epid=19035260679&hash=item2acf0c3f62:g:OdIAAOSwRjVdFAD~

     

    intvnut may have some on his site still -- not sure. LMK if neither of those work out for you.

    Which website would that be exactly?  I'm unfamiliar.

     

    1 hour ago, ChildOfCv said:

    That's a panel mounted RCA jack.

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Switchcraft-3501FR-Rear-Phono-Locknut/dp/B00RL8KS3S/

     

    The replacements are meant to be threaded on, which would save you some soldering.  But it may also be possible to solder this onto the box too.  Either way, the "rear mount" should make it possible either way.

    It's been ordered.  Thanks a lot!

     

    45 minutes ago, intvsteve said:

    If the issue is solely that connector and the integrity of the main outer shell isn’t compromised, it sure would be easier and cheaper to only replace the connector.  
     

    The picture is clean otherwise?  A game like Buzz Bombers or Astrosmash Has been known to show interference on the screen - at least in several cases I’ve seen. 
     

    if you do end up replacing the entire Modulator be sure to get a good supply of desoldering braid if you don’t have access to a desoldering station. Those things used a lot of solder.  :D

    It's generally clean... Ok I have a confession.  While cleaning the jack with q tip, it had became dislodged.  To make the picture better.  So I was not sure what to do.  Unfortunately I do not have Astrosmash at the time but I do baseball and the first d and d.  It is crystal clear.

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  9. The guy at console 5 says it's quite a strange problem to have on the console.   I'm ordering a cap kit anyways with the other transistors.  My system is fine other than that.  It just a little burnt on the chip I just wanted to replace it so it wouldn't get worse.  Like someone already said when it gets burnt it gets conductive and that's what I am afraid of.  I don't want to do surgery on a board and Frankenstein the thing if I don't have to.

     

    I don't know if the console got left on too long if that had caused it don't know but it works without a problem when I play it.  I hacked a cord on one of the controllers cause it was giving me some input problems when tugged.  It works fine now.  After this I'll leave it alone.

  10. 14 hours ago, -^Cro§Bow^- said:

    It is interesting as I've worked on many intellivision model 1 units and I've honestly never seen any with that cooked PCB near those transistors myself. Although I've seen plenty of pics from others that have. It makes me wonder if the ones I've serviced are newer and didn't have this issue with the heat on those transistors or if the ones I've come across were powered on in use in better ventilation during their lives?

    Maybe some are left on for too long is my guess.

  11. 15 hours ago, mr_me said:

    Yes those transistors have been known to fail.

    How does this happen?  Where can i buy one?

    10 hours ago, ChildOfCv said:

    There's a further possible issue with PCBs too:  Once they start burning like that, the fiberglass material becomes conductive, making the board itself into a resistor.  You can check that with multimeter probes, touching different areas within a burn to measure resistance.  If there's a reading that's significantly lower than infinity, the only possible remedy (other than replacing the board) is to cut out the burnt area and build a daughterboard with the parts that are supposed to go in that 

    Appears I caught it in time.  There is no major damage.

     

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