Nezgar

I'm guessing probably none -- the logging has probably just been updated to output a bit more verbose logging about certain commands it "sniffs" from the wire. But partial happy specific emulation has been incorporated, so I could very well be wrong... Edit: indeed I am wrong. ?

I still don't know what an "Original" CHIP looks like, that's interesting it has a label - I wonder if that's original, or a creation of a resourceful pirate. That 2139 would be the open code. Supposedly each original CHIP sold had a unique code to help against detection by software. 2139 doesn't match the 5 open codes I've come across in the wild up to this point, so it is at least new/unique amongst known ROM dumps up until now. It is a 2732 (4KB) EPROM. Do you have any means to dump/read out the ROM? It would be nice to compare the ROM against other known dumps. Review this other recent thread which has other interesting reading, and links to software you can try:

Cut off the DIN cord from the brick to keep, and throw out the rest. The old wire with the DIN connector is good to attach to a modern 5VDC PSU.

Sounds like an issue with the erase head... I'm sure these steps were covered somewhere in those previous links but check the following: - if the disks you formated previously had data, are the disks previous data still intact after the failed format? - can you write at all to a disk other than a format?

Yes it is indeed a duplicator 1050. yours is a 3.x ROM - there was supposedly a 3.1 ROM as well. The mod provides track buffering and ultraspeed support which greatly improves disk IO speed. The additional POT appears to connect between pin 31 (PA2) on the 6532/RIOT, and pin 10 (IN-) on the LM2917N Frequency to Voltage Converter, which correlates to a "slow speed" command referenced in this post with some technical info: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/102644-1050-us-duplicator-identification-needed/?do=findComment&comment=1252339 24. Change drive RPM Command:j Aux1:mode Aux2:not used If Aux1=0 drive is put to normal rpm (288). If Aux1=1, then drive is put in special slow rpm (272). Special slow pot must be installed for this command to function. Indeed that would have been used for the software to reproduce some copy protection using long tracks to squeeze a few more sectors onto a track.

Second adjustment pots often are for a second "slow RPM speed" used to assist reproducing some copy protection mechanisms... Please post a picture of the motherboard underneath the drive mechanism - here we have drive modifications suggesting there may be more "under the hood" that those wires connect to.

Hard to know nowadays what is original, since even the original 810 Archiver chips used EPROMs... But based on the drive in my possession in post #22 from this this thread, the EPROM was covered in a silver write-protect tab/label, the chip was dated 1982, and the "open" code was unique amongst known dumps encountered thus far, I am hopeful that it's an original. https://atariage.com/forums/topic/275134-another-unknown-eprom/?do=findComment&comment=4432031 I guess it would be good to corroborate observations of future Archiver/The Chip 810 finds to see if they also used a silver write-protect tab/label to cover the EPROM, and which brand/date of EPROM. (ie Intel / 82) PS: @ebiguy This reminds me to dig out that drive again and get those pot measurements you asked for.

Nailed it! Means it's a later production 1050... looks like 1985? ROM will most likely be an EPROM. Depending how well it cleans up, this type is a "less common" variant of the 1050...

Is that a World Storage mechanism? (Bottom case label will say Made in Hong Kong) The plastic strip on the silver nameplate seems very WST-esque...

Trak ball is fun because you can swipe the ball and it will continue for a while on the inertia... I specifically seeked out a CX20 driving controller to try with Tempest Xtreem, which works like a paddle but you can turn it forever... while it works I found the turning doesn't translate to fast enough turning on the screen - like it should be a bit more sensitive... or maybe my controller is just a little too stiff.. But it works! Tempest Xtreem may be the only game on the Atari 8-bit to support that controller?

Try booting with the BASIC ROM removed. Should be a 24-pin, C024947.

Can you get to the self test if you turn on the computer while holding OPTION? Could be a bad BASIC or OS ROM...

The "Rev 7" EPROM tells us it's a happy (a clone) - either V1 or V2, it would be interesting to get a dump of the EPROM to be sure. This can also be determined via the diagnostic software. This is a "dual personality" drive though - There is also a US Doubler EPROM + a double-stacked 6810 SRAM to support that. On the clone happy board, the biggest chip is the 6502, the scratched off one is 8KBytes of RAM, a 6264 8Kx8 SRAM chip. The switch at the front will likely toggle the drive between operating as a Happy, or as a US Doubler. This should only be done with the drive off. I have a drive with a similar "Dual personality" like this - it works by the switch determining which ROM gets power. If the motherboard ROM/EPROM receives power, and the one on the happy is off it will operate as a US Doubler. In the other position, the ROM in the happy board is ON, and the ROM on the motherboard is off - so it will operate as a Happy.

This disk: https://archive.org/details/a8b_Happy_Utility_Menu_v1.0_1987_Pirate_Software Option A, then Option C.

Send me a PM if interested. Just sold the last two assembled, but I will assemble more. The US Doubler ROM images are spread all over the Internet, but I did link to my patched one above, here again: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/158768-atari-1050-roms/page/3/?tab=comments#comment-4594602 You only need to use the different track format if you want it to read sectors faster at maximum speed when operating in "UltraSpeed" mode. Otherwise it reads disks just like any other 1050 drive at 1X SIO speed. (But with added capability to read/write 256 byte true double density sectors) In fact, if one formats a disk with the UltraSpeed interleave it actually reads slower in standard/1X SIO speed due to the sub-optimal interleave for that speed, but it still works. Turbo 1050 and XF551 are other examples of drives that use an alternate sector interleave to achieve faster highspeed sequential writes/reads without a track buffer. In fact, my modified firmware above "borrows" the improved standard-speed enhanced-density interleave from the Turbo 1050.

Not my video, but came across it on my YouTube adventures. I do have that same beige touch-tone 2500 handset seen in that video though that I plan to use with my 830 though. Also... EVERYTHING you ever (and never) wanted to know about Novation CAT modems, which had many incarnations, one of which being the Atari 830... When I originally found this video, it answered "how to open my 830" so I could re-solder broken solder joints on the power connector... An amazing amount of info here:

Heh... something like this wooden box?

What you see on the screen (bright, then dark scrolling bars - notice the grey/black background if you pause the video) is 60hz AC going into your computer instead of the normal DC. Definitely lobotomize that PSU ASAP. Keep the cord with the DIN end though, you can attach that to a new moder 5V DC power supply. Much easier than soldering wires to pins of a new connector.

Ah ok right - "Spartan Software Inc."

What do you mean by this? SpartaDOS keeps everything initially at the beginning of the disk (track 0), nothing on track 39. Also, up until the DLT releases of SpartaDOS, it also excluded use of sector 720 like Atari DOS.

Bob-Wolley modified firmware for 3.5" 720 works with both the WD1770 (later production units) and WD1772 (earlier production units), which only limits you to XF High-Speed (38Kbps) highspeed, and some of the other quirks of the Atari-based firmware. If you want to use the Hyper-XF firmware, which includes ultraspeed support (54Kbps) amongst many other features and improvements, I believe it only works with a WD1772 controller. There is a 5.25 and 3.5" version of this firmware.

All Atari & 3rd party disk drives and upgrades that provide double density support are inter-compatible, except for Atari's 815. The biggest additional feature the popular upgrades provide is track buffering, which speeds up successive sector reads & writes from the same track. The Happy and Speedy upgrades provide this. The "Super" speedy has enough RAM to buffer an entire DD disk, but is *ONLY* utilized by it's disk copy program, not for everyday operation. Happy has more software / awareness / popular in North America, and Speedy in Europe. In fact, prior to the creation of Mega Speedy, Speedy firmware was incompatible with NTSC machines, so until the last few years you wouldn't be able to get one to work even if you wanted it to on an NTSC machine. Patches to the Speedy firmware that were made as part of the MegaSpeedy "kitchen sink" upgrade have allowed the individual Speedy spin-off replica products to be viable for North America users now too. Both Speedy & Happy have track buffering and will be "fast" for everyday use with DOSes or modified OS's that support the Ultraspeed protocol. Both can copy protected disks, but I think the Speedy software is mostly in German. Happy upgrades and software are going to be better "supported" by others in North America since many people have used them since the 80's, if not authentic products, there are many clones made over the years. The AtariMax produced product isn't cheap, but AtariMax may still offer free shipping which makes up for it a bit. If one was going purely on recognizable features to resell the drive, the Happy would be an easy win. The Speedy is pretty "New" to North America, so will be less recognizable by buyers of an upgraded drive. For those in the USA, it looks like you can also order many of tf_hh's products from Vintage computer Centre: https://www.vintagecomputercenter.com/?product_cat=tfhh&post_type=product&s= I am a big fan of the US Doubler upgrade. IMHO every 1050 should at leasthave this upgrade as it provides double density and optionally UltraSpeed (with specially formatted disks) with minimal additional hardware, but it doesn't do track buffering or have copy-protection duplication abilities.. A DIY installation simply involves programming a 2732 EPROM and soldering two 6810 SRAM's together. (one additional on top of the one already in a stock drive). I've also made my own patches to the US Doubler ROM to improve it's default sector interleave when formatting ED and DD disks, and speed up the head stepping timing similar to that of a Speedy drive. (For Tandon mech/made in Singapore drives only so far). For WST/made in hong kong drives there is also a ROM that maintains the faster stepping speed from Atari's stock ROM, and adjusted stepper phase encodings to keep the head aligned. (Using firmware from a Tandon 1050 in a WST 1050 or vice-versa will result in a 1/4 track misalignment). Indeed - I always like modifications to be "reversible" so I was happy to release the designs and produce the PCB as mentioned by @E474 for a US Doubler installation using two 6810's together on a socketed PCB with no soldering of the 6810's together required. The thread about them is here: At this moment I have many of those PCB's on hand but none assembled so if you are interested in this route let me know. Work's been so busy a good PCB soldering session might be some good therapy for my brain hehe.

When you turn on the computer with the drive powered on and configured as drive 1, does the computer jump to "READY" or does it produce "BOOT ERROR" ? (This will tell us if the drive is responding to commands, even if they are NAK's). If you receive BOOT ERROR, do they print faster when the drive latch is open vs closed? If you receive BOOT ERROR's, does it change with a disk in the drive? (ie long pauses between each line printed) - is it any different with a disk in the drive, or without a disk in the drive? If you can get booted into DOS from a working drive or from an SIO2PC type solution, then switch over/attach this drive as d1: can you issue a format command to the drive? The normal/expected motions are sequentially advancing from track 0 to 39 (formatting), then retracting track by track from 39 to 0 (verifying). See if it maybe steps from 0-39, but then errors out when the verify phase starts at track 39.

This is a good suggestion, and I just checked it as well.. but the "expansion list" on page 33 (of the Jan 2022 edition) there is a reference of a 1088K upgrade (64K + 1024KB) but no reference example for 1024KB... which 4 banks should mirror the base 64K, or IMHO be blocked from use? I think there was maybe one Petersen type 1024K upgrade for the 800XL, vs 1088K in an XE, since "usually" the base 64K in the first row is untouched... If anything, it should match the behaviour of that upgrade... IIRC Petersen type upgrades would block access banks that would otherwise mirror main RAM.. I'd have to read up on them again. I'm not optimistic about the number of ramdisk programs that would correctly identify that 4 banks are mirroring base RAM.... In regards to 192K mode - it could be simplified to be a 320K "COMPY SHOP" type mode that uses bits 2,3,6,7, preserving ANTIC banking on bit 5. Programs that don't support bit 7 for banking will only detect 128KB of extended RAM (192KB total) Ie SpartaDOS 3.2 RD.COM), but those that do will detect all 256K of extended RAM (320KB total)

I presume it's a 3 position switch? (for 3 different OS ROM's depicted) Does the system fail to boot in any of the three switch positions? It's possible that the 2 EPROMs have failed over the years, but the original Atari OS mask ROM would be less likely to have failed... You may be able to pop out that PCB, and try each of the three chips individually plugged into the OS ROM socket to see if they are good, or if the issue is just with the switching mod. If you have an EPROM programmer, that would be another way to dump the contents of the ROM's - especially the "CUPID Rev 2" - that's interesting, not heard of that name before myself.