leonk

Up for grab is something very special from my personal collection. Atari XEGS (XE Game System) 8-bit computer (USA/Canada NTSC version) - unit is in excellent working condition - RAM tested, keyboard fully tested - lightgun is included - tested working great - original Atari CO-70042-01 AC adapter The RF connector was removed and in its place (no new holes cut) was installed a miniDIN 8 pin port to give you full RGB output. RGB is generated by a SOPHIA RGB amp specially sourced from Poland for this mod. This RGB amp has now been sold out for a couple of years. Enjoy the most beautiful video output out of any Atari 8-bit system (pictures shown on my Sony PVM monitor). I'm also including SCART RGB cable which you can use with any RGB device (PVM, XRGB mini, OSSC, RetroTink 5X, etc.) NOTE: AVG CART / multicart not included. Just showing the unit fully working. Located: Toronto, Canada but willing to ship anywhere across Canada at additional cost. PRICE: $450 CAD + shipping

Almost forgot. What would happen if someone tries to run RGB and another video port (like composite) on orange peel? (Eg stream + local display) is the amp capable of supporting this use case or is it only 1 display type at a time?

I installed orange peel into an Intellivision 1 that was previously modded with composite video (hence why I went with this solution) and once again, I’m very impressed with the video quality. RGB is breathtaking. Composite looks very clean. I was just surprised by a few things: 1) why is orange peel cheaper than baked potato? 2) orange peel is noticeably bigger than baked potato. Unless I need composite or Svideo, I’ll be sticking to the rgb only solution (for size alone) 3) we need a better solution for audio. The audio output from this Intellivision has a horrible buzz at high volume. I tried to put a 220uF cap inline to reduce the buzz (with +ve lead towards the kit) but unlike on Famicom, it had no impact. congrats on this wonderful kit!!!

I'm always skeptical of any stereo mod done to a mono console. It was popular mod a few years ago on the NES, but people quickly realized that it didn't sound natural (as it wasn't true stereo, but rather forcibly sending some audio to one side and other type of audio to the other; sometimes mixing the 2 channels in the process). No amount of mixing made it feel right across all the games. Even Nintendo, in their Famicom AV (their first 8 bit console that included a stereo capable port) simply tied the L and R channels together effectively making a dual mono console. I haven't had a chance to play around with Intellivision audio, but given its age relative to NES, I suspect the results will be pretty similar. Just my $0.02 on the subject.

I don't see Orange Peel on your eBay store. Is that something that you're waiting for parts? are there any boards ready for sale?

I can confirm that both RetroTink 5X and OSSC in 5X support baked potato using default options. I see no noise, dropped frames, everything just works!

The problem with the 8 pin miniDIN PCB is not the holes for the wires, it's the holes for the port. All these port are made in China and pin position varies port to port. Even when the PCB and port are in front of your eyes, it's almost impossible to make it fit. It's a struggle to keep trying to straighten the pins on the port because the tolerance on the PCB is so tight. As for HD Retrovision cables not working on Potato, I don't think that's accurate. It should. The biggest issue is that there is no revision that's made for 8 pin miniDIN. So people need to create custom pigtails that go from one of the other cables (Like what they officially did for Neo Geo support) CSync from Potato should work as CVideo pin for the cables.

My only gripe is the 8 pin miniDIN PCB. The holes are too small. Luckily I have a bag of >100 ports/PCBs from doing NESRGB installs (I use a Nintendo multiAV port) so I used that instead. Also, I prefer installing the RGB amp above the Intellivision PCB rather than bellow, so the breakout PCB for the video IC was useless for me. Apart from that, worked great and looks sweet on my PVM!

Had a chance to try out baked potato on an Intellivision 2 and I’m impressed. Will be putting it through it paces with RetroTink 5X and OSSC 5X shortly.

People put resistors into cables just when RGB on that console already existed from factory. When RGB didn't exist (3DO, 2600, Coleco, Intellivision) I always advocate for nothing in the SCART cable. But if people insist on using Genesis 2 ports, with Genesis 2 SCART cables, in non-Genesis 2 consoles; then I believe the output from that console (be it Intellivision or ColecoVision) should put out the same electronic characteristics as a Genesis 2. And that's when we get into trouble. In my opinion, it comes down to the modder educating the customer. When people asked me to put a Genesis 2 port into their system, I educated them on the issue. The only time I'm fine with Genesis 2 port is in PC Engine consoles; but for those, I personally modify the RGB amps and remove resistors/caps from the amp.

HD Retrovision needs 75 ohm terminated (0.3Vpp) sync. It uses CVideo for sync on "tested consoles" because csync is such a mess across RGB amp and cable makers and Y doesn't exist on some consoles (e.g. Genesis). The only guaranteed sync signal to always be correct across multiple consoles is CVideo. HDR doesn't use the composite video or luma components of those signals, it just needs the sync info. So, HDR will work with Y and C-sync as long as they follow the CVideo electrical standard.

I wonder what you used for sync with baked potato when running HD Retrovision cables. Did you run the csync pin to the cvideo pin on the 9 pin miniDIN? That's the only way I can see it working.

Thanks for the comparison. It seems that Baked Potato is more baked than Orange Peel. So if you want just RGB, you can't go wrong with Baked Potato.

I really like the RGB color palette you're using. Here's a comparison of the colors for those wondering: TOP: the same screen on my LCD (XRGB mini running Fred Kono's RGB board) MIDDLE: Fred Kono on a PVM BOTTOM: RF to my test monitor I think the best way to compare the colors is to look at the colors sample bar at the top of the attract screen. You got the most accurate "beige" (left of red).

When you look straight at the opening it looks stock. If you have high quality, professional stepper drill bits, it's no big deal to drill it out without breaking the vents. The Intellivision 2 plastic can handle it. I've done it a few times with no problem.