leonk

Firmware updates are a bit iffy. They allow others to copy McWills code. Not sure if he's willing to do that. Also. I don't believe it can be done. There's no input on Lynx pcb for buttons input!

I use photobucket and post img links back to it.

Hey McWill. Yes. That wire was added after the picture was taken. I didn't wire and wires to the brightness pot as I didn't install VGA port. Also I thought the scan line switcher was broken. Didn't realize you had to hold all 3 bottoms for 2 seconds. Soldering the wires to the old LCD contact points is by far the most difficult part of the mod due to fine pitch between pads. Also, the 4 holes for aligning LCD in opening never lined up for me. The pcb hit the cart connector and needed about 1mm more. But picture is perfectly in the middle.

I spoke to McWill about the GGLCD. He's a very modest guy but I want to make others know the "truth". It so happens that McWill sold one of his Lynx screens to a guy in Japan (by the same name as the GG LCD screen above!) Take it as rumour, I personally believe a guy in Japan reverse engineered the LYNX LCD screen and created a GG one. Luckily, McWill finished his GG LCD screen which is much better with more features. I was lucky enough to get a copy and install it in my GG over the weekend. Here's some pics: Before install: Parts removed: Almost done install: Result: Regular display: Hold all 3 buttons to turn on scanline generator! Thanks McWill for an awesome product. Sorry to hear others try to rip your code and sell as their own.

OMG!!! Just completed my McWill GG mod. I'm totally shocked. I can see stuff in sonic the hedgehog I never saw before!! McWill. You got an awesome product there. Why are more people not talking about it? Is there another forum where this is discussed? This is by far the best thing that ever happened to the game gear!!!!!!

I've done many AGS-101 screen mods for a lot of my customers using both original Nintendo screens and the now no longer produced aftermarket ones from a few years ago. Yes, there is the potential for quality issues (given the fact that there are 2 different GBA connectors and 2 different 101 screens) but if you have the correct adapter and use it correctly, you should eliminate any ghosting or video problems. There are too many 32/40 pin adapters on eBay with no usage instructions and people are left to guess. The good North America vendors will instruct you on how to use their product (adding resistors, joining pins, etc) so issues like the one you have wont happen. If you want to play GBA on your TV I suggest you invest in a GBA player for the GameCube. I strongly doubt that McWill can produce a GBA LCD replacement screen that would be profitable to him (given SPs can now be found for $30 or fully modded GBA systems for $100)

I got multiple tips for my rework station. 0.8mm for SMD. 1.6mm for through hole. I never ran into a pcb I couldn't solder to with the bigger tip and 30% extra degrees of heat.

Wow. Really!? Gas powered?? Folks. Please stop using cheap $5 soldering irons. Any variable temperature controlled iron (even cheap $50 China irons on eBay) should work. Use 60/40 solder with flux 20-22GA). If it doesn't solder add more solder to the pad first. The trick is clean pad with enough solder there already to work with.

If that's the case, what provides the clock to the original LCD screen in TV mode?

Or you can just switch to an OKI-78SR-5 Switching Regulator and be done with it. Higher tolarences and through hole design (I desolder the 3 pin adapter). Have it in my Lynx and Nomad (it's almost a must for Nomad with modern LCD mod)

Yes. That's the one I use. For these sort of application (where's not a drop in replacement for a standard 7805) I de solder the pin header and solder the wires to the thru holes. I then use automotive grade double sided foam tape to attach to pcb.

Congrats! The way those flex cables are designed is really dumb. Rather than using standard copper flex (like the stock lcd flex cable) using that painted graphite is so dumb.

I'm confused. Did you decide to use regulator or revert back? Personally I use a modern switching regulator (costs about $5) but supports up to 35V input and it runs cold without the need for a heat sink! Did similar mod on my sega nomad as the original sega regulator was overheating after long game play using new lcd screen.

For TurboExpress, you need to cut the screen shield to fit and lose the nec labels, right? Any good instructions online showing the process? I was thinking of modding my TGE but didn't feel right about the cuts. But also gets find the 2" or so lcd screens anywhere either!

No disrespect to you but if a mod is done correctly, using quality components, quality tools by a competent modder, the improvement to the system can be accomplished once and it will last for decades with no further intervention. If you are not capable of doing these sort of fixes (and adapt when your system is not exactly the same as what some guy showed on the Internet) well maybe you shouldn't have attempted the mod in the first place. Any good modder with a cheap multimeter should be able to trace out your system into schematics and figure out the specific changes required to get you back on track. Again no disrespect but many people over estimate their capabilities online.

!?! Why would you go back to that horrible design which will eventually fail and kill your Lynx? Not to mention the common overheating associated with it!! Push forward not backwards! If all else fails have someone else fix it for you.

Search for posts by me in this forum. This is a common problem with Lynx 2. New flexi should fix it but more important is how you put the system back together. I ran into the same issue you have and through trial and error discovered that stress on the flexi causes the system to not power on.

I disagree. I have a modded nomad and thought it looked damn good until I got the Lynx mod done. The Lynx video quality is noticeably better than the composite video fed nomad. There's just too much noticeable composite video artifacts in the picture when compared to Lynx or other genesis output modes (eg rgb to my pvm on my model 1).

Bad pins will give you black screen. Get an AC/DC adapter that lets you select voltage. Set it at 6V and see if that works. I bet you your zenor diode popped sending 9V on the 5V rail causing cpu / gpu shutdown.

this is a common problem I documented in another thread here. So here's the problem: your buttons ribbon cable is not making full contact. You can fix it with either brand new membrane, jump the mosfet (system turns on when power applied) or you can massage it to work. Try this: when you put system back together make sure button ribbon is pushed all the way in before snapping holder closed. Then, make sure the ribbon is as verticle as possible going into connector. This means push it down and in when looking from behind into console.

I know you're super happy with your power mod and its 1000 times better than zenor diodes. If you ever do another Lynx, try the switching voltage regulator I have shown above. You'll be pleasantly surprised by its performance.

Re Nomad mod: I did composite mod on mine using new 3.5" LED LCD and new power inverter and it's awesome. Too bad gamegear doesn't have composite out. So got to wait. I know of at least 10 customers of mine that would want GG lcd / no rgb port.

LCD mod too! Why did you leave Q8?

FYI, I went to a big retro game swap here where I was showing off my console mods. People were amazed by backlit original Gameboy, gameboy advance, Lynx with new lcd and my new lcd sega nomad. The show was about 6 hours long. All systems worked like a champ except for 2. Original gameboy got warm (running off batteries) and nomad had main pcb shut down after 2 hours!! Only lcd stayed on (had black screen). I assumed thermal shutdown because when I got home nomad was working fine again. Well. It seems nomad has one of those tiny power inverters. I removed it and installed my go to >90% efficiency switching modern power inverter. It's now been running for >6 hours cold!! I'm a believer in modern switching power regulators. They cost more but worth it! See attached pics.