wongojack

Pictures (and captions) updated here: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=ec7bd1a81d3e9f22&resid=EC7BD1A81D3E9F22!127&parid=root

As far as the switch is concerned, the lower pad of J9 is ground and the upper pad of J3 is also ground. Actually, every ground on the board I tested was connected, so there are lots of options on how to wire your switch. To test this just set your multimeter to test for continuity and touch the leads to the various grounds on the board: lower J9 upper J3 pad 12 pad 24 Basically, my diagram is correct, you can take the ground from either J9 OR J3 to complete the switch.

I'm not sure what I did. I disconnected 13-24 and still had the display problem. When I disconnected everything the Flashback worked again. I went through tonight and reconnected everything, checking for continuity to the edge connector and testing video output every 4 wires or so. I finally got it to work. I used gnash's work around for pad 20 (wire to the 5th lead on the ROM area directly above pad 20). I had to solder it 2x as the first time I only got the 2k carts working. I reset the joint further "down" away from the chip and then carts above 2k worked as expected. Was pleased to see Asteroids with no flicker! Now I just have to start cutting on the case to place my switch and cart port . . .

I bought a big Coleco bundle from King_Salamon, and I've never seen more careful packaging on any internet deal. He exceeded my expectations on price, delivery, packaging . . . pretty much everything. Would buy again for sure!

I got a PS2 slim and a bunch of Intellivision stuff from boxpressed. It was shipped very quickly and packaged with care. I will buy from him again!

Great communication! I'm very satisfied with the Intellivision stuff I got from thegoldenband. Fast shipping, very carefully packed, I will buy from him again.

50k!!?? You could probably pay the Rangers to come to your house and play some Night Stalker with you for that.

I don't see how this will be anything but an impulse buy for anyone. If you want one of these things wait till the 2nd week of January and get one in the Marketplace, Craig's List, or Ebay - then give it is deserved 15 minutes of playtime before you go back to your Harmony cart.

Big 3?

Anyone have any insight into the expiration of the site name? Does it matter at all?

How do you plan to play those games on this device?

I'll try a few USB options eventually and report the results in a few days. I don't really care about a gamepad for 2600 or C64, so I'm not really in a hurry.

I wrote a guide for the .ini maker worksheet that helps you build menus for the MCC. Find it here: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=ec7bd1a81d3e9f22&resid=EC7BD1A81D3E9F22!133 Also - support for USB was enabled with the latest core releases

So is Bacteria his/her YouTube username or just Atariage username?

PM'd

I got a system on C'list last week and today I finally had a chance to really get into it. Along with the games I got with the system, a friend of mine has a lot of games and let me his stash - complete with overlays and paper manuals. I had a lot of fun reading through the Imagic manuals. I forgot about the 2 page color illustrations. I really miss the classic manuals. Anyway, I spent a good bit of time hacking up my controller - nothing major (see my other thread for details). I played these games today Astrosmash Deadly Discs Beauty and the Beast Pitfall Auto Racing Atlantis Demon Attack Tropical Trouble Baseball -Astrosmash really is a classic. The gameplay is so strong that its aged nicely despite looking so plain. -Deadly Discs was much more fun once I started playing with both controllers. Really solid gameplay here. -Beauty and the Beast really surprised me. I'd watched videos of it before playing, and I thought it looked so repetitive. But the combination of gameplay elements make this an addictive game. I also used suggestions I got from this board to spin the disc before attempting to climb an open window and it totally works. Dont treat that thing like a D-pad! I'll go back to this one. -Pitfall I played long enough to be satisfied that it was the same as the 2600 version. Green on green didn't look as good as the VCS, but so what. -Auto Racing a unique and challenging control makes this a very interesting game for the Inty. Would be nice to have a 2nd player -Atlantis The game is an obvious homage/sequel to Missile Command which has never really occurred to me when playing it on the 2600. Its sooo much better than MC however with the shuttle in the middle and great story. I'll say though that the sensitivity of the disc seems just a tad off to me. I think that the crosshairs track too fast. This was the only game I played today where I felt my hand cramping. I guess I need to go back for more and develop a gameplay style. -Demon Attack I've got to say that I'm not really impressed with this version. The art is over the top and the enemies are really dull. The boss fight should be great, but it was just kind of annoying. I felt lucky when I beat it. -Tropical Trouble nice reuse of the B&B art and code in here. I liked this but I didn't think the game had the same combination of challenge and reward that B&B has. Also the "bridge" screen made me realize they were going for Jungle Hunt which actually made me appreciate the game less because JHunt is so much more fun than this. -Baseball just need a player 2

Oh, and I got some weird behavior using a Serial cable to extend the cord on my controller. The super video arcade has just a plain ole DB9 connector so I was using the serial cable just fine with one controller plugged in. When I went to play some Deadly Discs with both controllers in, they wouldn't work. I chucked the extension and did some combo of plugging the controllers back into the system that got them working at the same time. Not entirely sure what was going on there.

I sat down for a day of Inty and knew immediately that I had to do something about the side buttons on the controllers that came with my CraigsLister. Its a super video arcade, so its easier than most for controller work because I can simply detach and work on them. I took one apart with just a phillips #1 and peeked around inside. It was pretty clean. Has anyone reading this ever tried to add some controls to the leads that are exposed at the top of the controller? That looks like its just inviting me to add some kind of button, but I'm not in a hurry to destroy these guys. Anyway, I decided that it would make the side buttons better if they had a shorter distance to go to hit the side button sensors, so I cut some pieces of rubber band a little less than 3/8" and placed the pieces vertically on the nubs that hit the sensor. I was then able to slide the buttons back into place and because its so snug, the rubber bands just stay put. This made a big difference in my non-autofire games of Astrosmash and Demon Attack. My left thumb was thankful.

/\/\ I don't understand that question, but there is a lot going on right above the DB9 port. Its possible something on the board is loose. The jumper that determines if the device will be ROM or cart is right above that port - for examp;e

I thought this was interesting. I think its the same guy who had the Aquarius auction earlier this week. eBay Auction -- Item Number: 260895201347

Sounds like a good idea, but I would want the ROMs with my purchase

I communicated with the seller on that $30 option who said that they have never tested the device with a classic gaming system.

I don't really have a dog in this fight, but I am opinionated. Please feel free to accuse me of disgracing my ancestors with the comments that follow . . . . . There is a lot that has been tested by BIG SOFTWARE in the area of piracy. However, the reigns usually loosen on older software in pretty much every area of software distribution, and when you treat your customers like criminals, even the "good ones" tend to trend towards the dark side. I'm not going to claim to be any kind of expert in homebrew classic gaming software. If you say releasing the ROM will devalue your product then I have no real reason to disagree, but it sounds like you know your market and how many sales that market can support. What is the point of holding back the ROM after the sales are completed? retroillucid, I guess you are saying that you do release them so that question is for someone else. Do developers and publishers hold back copies and offer them for auction later to make a bigger profit? That would make sense - why not release the ROM after that? I'm seriously asking because I can't really think of other reasons to hold onto the ROM. SIDEBAR Video game franchises tend to get around the problem of competing with their own discounted older games by releasing story driven sequels. It might be cool to see a planned series of games that would compel the player to purchase the next release. Then you could release your ROM for the previous game knowing that it would potentially drive more sales of the next. If you wanted, you could simply not release the final ROM. I'm just thinking and typing here, but that is basic product marketing stuff - make them want more.