wongojack

Its just more work to acquire the system . . . then you acquire a controller that is essentially the same as a readily available USB controller. Why not just fire up the emulator to begin with.

+1 for HERO

I can't use the NES gamepad for more than about 30 minutes without my thumb growning 100 calluses (it hurts). Is the Sega gamepad any better? But really . . . whats the point of playing these games on Original Hardware or the Flashback if you aren't going to use the joystick? Just play them on your PC with a $10 gamepad for free.

I have playstation adapters - can I adapt this: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 180644255012

bump

One of the things that I really like about it is that using the 2nd joystick actually feels like it is meant to be part of the gameplay instead of an add-on that was forced. It actually feels like an arcade game where you've got a 2nd control stick that lets you choose weapons. It really works nicely. Now if I can just figure out how those enemies are supposed to look like planes . . . . (they don't)

Playing it on the flashback 2+, and I was kind of surprised at how much fun I'm having with it. To me, this really feels like a mid to late 80's arcade flyer like After Burner. You could easily make an argument that the gameplay is actually more compelling than AB. I'm interested to hear about other people's experiences with this game.

+1 and now its up to 33 Edit - I didn't follow your link and found a different page for HERO

For Asteroids, I think you need to play a game variation with Shields and an extra man at 10k instead of 5. I think game 10 that someone else suggested is the slow version of this combination and 11 is the fast. . . . 2 player simultaneous Space Invaders is pretty great too.

Thanks for the update OldSchool! BTW, on the Wiz UAE4All lets you map a button for jump - helpful for games like Another World

I found it here: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/158588-got-my-atari-flashback-2/page__st__25__p__1952124__hl__batari+flashback+trace__fromsearch__1#entry1952124 Scroll up to find your photo of the patch on the trace to pad 20 Has anyone else tried to mod a FB2+? If so, can you respond so we confirm if every one of them requires this repair to pad 20?

I've read a lot of the posts on this board about the mods on the various revisions of the FB2, but how bout the FB2+. It seems that Batari uncovered what might be a manufacturing defect when he attempted the mod: http://www.atariage.com/forums/topic/158588-got-my-atari-flashback-2/page__st__25__p__1952124__hl__batari+flashback+trace__fromsearch__1#entry1952124 Has anyone else successfully modded their FB2+ without having to repair the trace to pad #20? I'm a smart guy, but not very experienced testing continuity on a PCB. Using a multimeter, is there a way for me to check if pad 20 has this problem on my FB2+?

I actually found an S-Video (4pin) connector on the rack at Fry's. For RCA connectors I guess I'll have to hunt around for something like this? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kobiconn/161-2052/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV%2fnr77mf5Re9sJHYgPSynio%3d

For a Flashback mod. I just wanted to check and find out if someone had purchased 2 when they only needed one. Right now the Best Electronics site says that you can only purchase one of these (part #CO15573A) which I think means I'd have to buy $10 of stuff I probably don't want (I think they have a $20 min). If anyone else has an extra set, I'd paypal you a few $$ for it. EDIT: Or, I guess a broken 2600 that still has a 'working' cartridge port and plastic cart guide would work . . .

Where do the Harmony cart shells come from? Mine looked and acted brand spanking new. The first time I put it into the 2600 cart slot the little door took quite a bit of pressure to open up. Not in a bad way just in a NEW way.

Woot is a one day deal. So the offer is over

(FYI I know about the stelladaptor) I got 2 of these brand new on an auction site for about $11 (incl shipping): MEGA RACER STEERING WHEEL & CONTROLLER for PLAYSTATION http://www.classicgamesource.com/proddetail.php?prod=741948220159&PHPSESSID=b467469011af8c163aea9cc6db33a085 This controller has a couple of different analog mode options. It works with the Atari and Activision anthologies for PS2 and the Atari collection allows you to adjust the sensitivity and control type (relative vs absolute). For Activision - it didn't work so great with Kaboom for PS2 because these calibration options were not exposed. The best news is that I was able to easily adapt this to work in Windows 7 and test the different analog control modes. It worked great in Stella and I could calibrate it through Windows control panel without too much hassel. I'm using an adapter like this: http://www.szprice.com/products/3-in-1-Comverter-PSX-and-PS2-to-PC-USB-X-box-Gamecube_2869.html It works reasonable well, with one caveat. The 'resting' position of the thing you are controlling is all the way to the left. You must calibrate the dial to be slightly off center so that the resting position moves to the middle. Another way to say it is you need to center it so that the Kaboom buckets are to the right of their normal starting position. This is done in Windows 7 through the 'Devices and Printers' option under control panel. I haven't tried in MAME yet. The problem here is this is NOT a paddle. Its a racing wheel that autocenters and does not rotate 360 (or 359.9999). You have to deal with the autocentering if you use it for a game that didn't have that (I think all 2600 paddle games did NOT). The advantage is that I can use this on multiple platforms. I've got some PStation to 360 adapters coming and I want to see if I can get this to work with those - could be interesting. I've also got the option to try in a GameCube port and original XBox. I'll soon have a PS to WiiMote adapter too. Early signs are that this is a good option for getting some kind of paddle/spinner on multiple consoles and the price was certainly right.

Old thread but I have a GP2x Wiz and I love it. Most of the emulators for it allow the in-game saves to work. Pretty much every other one that I've tried (except MAME) allows save states Original question You CAN write to the on board memory on the Wiz. There isn't much space there and its slow, but you can do it. I leave it alone and use an SD card. You do not need a seperate SD card reader as you can access the SD card through the USB cable that attaches directly to the Wiz. More comments SNES emulation works at almost 100% Frames per Sec on the Wiz, the SNES emulators on the Caanoo will get there, but its a different team of developers working on that one, so its a different emulator (last time I checked). Also, the last time I checked there was no Amiga emulator ported over to Caanoo but the Wiz has this and it works pretty great. Personally I don't really think the Wiz or Caanoo are very expensive considering all the things that you can do with them for free. One major downside to the Wiz is that the OLED screen (while it looks great) has had what seems to be a fairly high rate of failure. Users report that spotting begins developping over time and eventually blocks out the whole screen. However, I've had mine for about 9 months and it shows no sign of this. The Caanoo uses an LCD that is not as 'fragile' and doesn't seem to have this same problem.

Thanks for the warning

And what about this one from Best Electronics? http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/2600.htm#Composite Has anyone installed that mod that cares to comment on it?

I've been searching around the boards and I can't quite find the specific info that I'm looking for. I think this is probably covered here and there, but if someone has direct answers for me that would be awesome. I'm finding information about 2 different mod kits. There is the Longhorn Engineer kit: http://www.longhornengineer.com/Videomods/Videomods and then this one: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/guides/mods Besides the fact that LHE does SVideo, what is the difference between these? Has anyone done a side by side comparison? It also looks like someone is selling a board that looks like the LHE board on ebay that is assembled but without the wires and connectors: eBay Auction -- Item Number: 290544161106 I was just wondering if I could get someone to comment on the currently available mods with a statement like "At this point there are these mods available" OR "the best choice for a noob is this" OR "this type of mod really doesn't improve the picture" OR "don't waste your money, you can do this yourself" OR "that website you found hasn't been taking orders due to X" etc. Last question is where is the best place to buy composite and SVideo ports like the ones in the above kits?

Thanks for the response to me digging up your old thread! I took a closer look at your pic and now I see that you just used a floppy cable and soldered the wires individually on the cartridge slot. That actually looks easier than what was on Curt's initial website because those pins are pretty seperated. Edit: any general advice on getting the wire lengths correct before I start soldering?

I'm poking around these old mod threads for info. The link to the page with this mod is now gone. Too bad. I don't suppose anyone reading this thread can post a new link for it?

I realize this is an old thread, but I'm planning my own cart mod project . . . I can't wrap my head around a couple of things. I'm thinking through the different options and I'm wondering how much work having an old style 5.25" floppy connector will save me - it sounds like a lot since that eliminates 1/2 the soldering work. I'm reading the various walk throughs and one thing I can't figure out is how you connect the floppy connector to the cartridge slot - does it just jam on there? I couldn't really find any pics of this. I can't really grasp how that connection is actually made. This seems obvious, but I thought I'd ask how you kept track of which wire was #2, 3, 4, . . . . 7 etc as you were soldering - did you just count them one at a time from wire #1?

I have one cable for a 5 1/4 drive. I thought I had more, but that seems to be it. I'm reading the various posts on how to do this hacking. If you use a pre-wired connector like the 5 1/4 drive connector, can you still attach it to the cartridge port that forces the cartridge 'door' open? I mean, I can see how the pre-wired connector would be really useful for the harmony cart, but how would it work with a classic cart like Space Invaders etc? I'm still reading around the boards on this - there is a lot of info scattered 'out there'