VW
-
Posts
252 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Events
Store
Community Map
Posts posted by VW
-
-
I did some searching and haven't found a great answer. I remember it being possible to play Atari 8-bit MULE with emulators with a friend of mine over the internet before and was wondering if something similar was possible on the ST. Basically routing the second controller port to the internet. Mule had players take turns so maybe this was the only reason it worked? Any help/pointers appreciated, the game I am trying to get work is Superstar Ice Hockey.
-
Thank you for checking! I never considered that I would have mislabeled something but I obviously should have 😄
-
1
-
-
I captured these images with a 1050-2-PC cable a few years back and saw no errors while doing so. But when I load Ultima 3 and try to continue on with these player disks, I get garbage instead of the game. The only things I can think could be wrong are:
-The disks were bad but the badness was captured intact by the transfer program
-Maybe Ultima 3 version was different from when I created these disks in the '80s versus the version I have now. The version I have now is from the Atari/C64 disk version and I don't know what was used originally. Any help would be appreciated, I would love to see these again!
-
1
-
-
11 hours ago, Avram said:
I’m not sure but I think you can play this in an emulator and slow it down.
Apparently, the C64 version does not end.
I will have to try the slow emulator plan, hate to cheat but I have wondered this for almost 40 years now (off and on, mostly off 😁 ). I checked out your link (very interesting, too bad it's for C64) and didn't see Encounter. Is that why you think it doesn't end?
-
I loved this game back in the day but could never make it through the gate after level 8. The manual says the game only has 8 levels. So what happens if you get through the gate after level 8?
-
1
-
-
I'm midway through HFW, a little disappointed so far. I played HZD and liked the story but my favorite part was
Spoilerthe side quest where you take out a bunch of rebel camps, working with a mysterious person you meet at the first camp. You take out several camps and it becomes apparent this guy likes killing a little too much, setting up a showdown after you take out the final camp.
This was really well done and one of my favorite side quests of all time since it was developed well and the side quests of HFW aren't measuring up so far. Story of HFW is good and I like the Relic Ruins Tomb Raider like puzzle rooms. HFW suffers the classic annoyance of open world Ubisoft games where the developers constantly shove "New activity over here" and "Try this other thing over here" and it is very distracting when I am just trying to complete a mission.
-
1
-
-
On 7/22/2022 at 7:04 AM, bfollowell said:
Sometimes maybe, if you live in or near a big city. In my area, most people seem to think the video game era started with Xbox or PS and that there weren't computers before PCs and Macs. If I ever see anything Atari for sale in my area, it's an old, overpriced 2600. I've never seen anything Atari computer related for sale in my area. There are a few online places you can look other than ebay, but they're only marginally better.
I have had good luck with stores lately in my area. Found a fully functional Atari 800XL, 1050 and a modem and various controllers and a monitor cable for $200 in Ogden, Utah. Found both Worlds of Ultima games at a store in Boise for $75 each, about half of what they sell on Ebay for. So it can be worth it to check record/movie/video games stores but admittedly these finds are rare. Usually the only pre-1990 anything you ever see are 2600 cartridges or original Nintendo cartridges. Still pondering a C1702 monitor for $200 at another local shop, I hate to get a 40 year old CRT monitor that can't have that much time left.
-
9 hours ago, carlsson said:
I find that one needs to be cool. When you catch up on other cars that are close to eachother, slow down and deduct which of those is faster. Wait a little to get past one at a time, slalom around them instead of trying to shoot as fast as possible through the opening between them that often turns out to be too narrow. By playing it cool, you can minimize number of crashes that in the end will improve your chances to reach the finish line.
Slow down was the key phrase. I either never knew or had forgotten it was even possible to slow down in this game so thanks for the reminder! The button did do something after all...
-
1
-
1
-
-
2 lap challenge
38700+36850+37900=113650 + not sure what NTSC bonus is
-
3
-
-
I think I could play for 100 years and not finish the 8 lap race on AtariGP level.
-
1 and 2 lap challenge
-
3
-
-
Even 74k for 1 lap challenge, I resolve to finish the 8 laps next but 78k for now.
-
3
-
-
15850 getting better but still a long way from the top.
-
4
-
-
7510 in case pic gets cropped weird. My timing was all off from being used to arcade Galaga.
-
3
-
-
Way late to the party but I'll post my sad score for fun. Unfortunately my beloved Wico has gone flaky which hurt a lot.
-
2
-
-
Jumpman Jr. - my favorite platformer but I could understand voting for Miner 2049er or Bounty Bob instead.
Ultima 3 (first RPG I ever played or even heard of)
Encounter
AR The Dungeon
Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy (Infocoms could have their own separate top 5 category).
-
800 and 800XL, had to replace keyboards in both of them but they now work great.
-
I just installed a Happy in my 1050 and when I put the RF cage back on, it feels like the Happy chip is up against the edge of the cage and touching it. Is that a problem? Does the RF shield even matter anymore in this age of digital TVs?
-
6 hours ago, HiassofT said:
1050-2-PC mode needs a command line (usually driven by RTS or DTR) and 5V/VCC/Ready in addition to RxD, TxD and GND connected to the 1050. The 5V/Ready pin is important, if 5V isn't present there the 1050 will play dead.
On most older 1050-2-PC interfaces connecting to PC serial ports you had to provide the 5V externally as it's not available from the serial port and deriving it from the control lines of the serial port is problematic.
On the RPi it's easiest to just use 3.3V<->5V level shifters to connect to the 1050 or Atari, the cheap 4-way bidirectional FET level shifters work fine - see README.RPi in atarisio (also note that you need to add the overlays to get RTS and CTS on the RPi GPIO pins).
Your serial port addon board/hat sounds like it may contain a RS232 line driver, converting from 3.3V to the +/-12V RS232 levels. If it doesn't provide RTS and CTS signals by default it may be tricky to rewire it to support these. Also going from 3V on the RPi to 12V on RS232 and then back to 5V in the 1050-2-PC interface adds more points where things could go wrong (eg a slow line driver that's then preventing reliable operations) - better avoid that.
If you want an off-the-shelve solution I'd recommend buying the SIO2PC/1050-2-PC USB dual adapter from Lotharek. It works just fine with atariserver/atarixfer (see README.lotharek for details on how to switch it to 1050-2-PC mode).
Using an old, serial 1050-2-PC cable with a FTDI based USB-serial adapter works, too, if you externally provide 5V. USB-serial adapters with other chips is hit-and-miss (in general more miss than hit), as they often don't support signalling when the transmission has finished (which is essential in 1050-2-PC mode). SIO2PC mode is more forgiving in that aspect.
so long,
Hias
The serial port is powered from RPi's 3.3VCC pin and I think shifts from there. So would I need to connect both RTS and CTS for this to work then? I tried just using the RTS overlay and didn't have any luck. My serial add-on doesn't have pins for RTS/CTS but I could probably solder them as there are spots for them on the board. If I do that, would I use the default atarixfer cable option or is this equivalent to Lotharek's or the APE cable? It sounds like Lotharek's SIO2PC/1050-2-PC with USB dual cable would solve all my problems and be a lot easier to deal with so I will probably just do that. Thanks everyone for all your replies!
-
I have been having a horrible time trying to wire up my Raspberry Pi's serial port to work with 8-bit hardware. I bought a serial port add-on board for the Pi and tested it using minicom connecting to an old Cisco router and that worked so I think the port is ok but atariserver and atarixfer don't work at all. I looked deeper and various online diagrams for the 1050-2-PC cable use 5 wires (Tx, Rx, VCC, GND, and another one I have seen labeled as CTS, RTS or DTR). I just realized that my Pi's serial port only has 4 wires connecting to the Pi's GPIO (Tx,Rx, VCC, GND). I have read that DTR is not possible on the Pi but RTS is. Can I get by with RTS? My add-on board has a small pin I think I could get to work with another connector. I am using an old (bought 15-20 years ago) 1050-2-PC cable and I don't know whether it uses RTS or DTR. I guess I could rewire it if needed but would prefer to avoid that. How critical is this difference?
-
This thread makes me want to take apart my 30 in 1 cartridge.
-
Thanks Stickjock and Steven, I haven't soldered in a while but will keep all this in mind if the lack of a power light continues to annoy me. It's good to know that I don't have to do it though.
-
I have been trying for quite a while to copy some of my old Atari disks to ATR files and have been having an awful time. I tried HiassofT's atarisio linux package on both Linux and Raspberry Pi and while atariserver works great on my Pi 4 with a USB-Serial adapter and my old SIO2PC cable, I cannot get atarixfer to work either on the Pi or a real linux machine with a serial port. On the Pi with a USB-Serial converter going to an old 10502PC cable, the copying goes very slowly and only works on a disc where the data is loaded in consecutive sectors (like an Infocom side 1). All other discs I can hear the drive switch tracks around while reading which shouldn't be happening and while I end up with an ATR, it is garbage and unusable. I was annoyed enough by this to buy a serial port for the Pi but atarixfer and atariserver can't seem to use it. I read all the instructions about enabling the serial port and disabling the console on the Pi. I tested my serial port using minicom and the full-featured UART (ttyAMA0) using an old Cisco router and console management cable and it worked so I'm pretty sure my serial port on the Pi is hooked up properly. I think my 1050 is still working since I can boot games directly on my 800XL and they work. None of the atari Rpi programs will see my serial port and I was wondering what more I could do to get this to work.
-
The pic is not great but it wasn't as clean a break as I thought as there is an overhang of the baseboard with the circuitry. At this point, I think I will give up on the gluing back together idea and am wondering if it's safe to run without the corner light bulb.
Like us on Facebook
Follow us on Twitter
AtariAge on Instagram
Watch us on YouTube
Chat on Discord
Infocom's Z-Machine ATR generator
in Atari 8-Bit Computers
Posted
Excellent project, how is the performance? I remember playing Spellbreaker on the 800XL was painful at times with a lot of disk access required for seemingly every command. I will try this out on an emulator but would love it to work on real hardware too.