-^CrossBow^-

Hmm... that stinks because another reason I've never upgraded beyond .85 is because I believe the Jaguar RGB starts to get sketchy with FW newer than that, and the Jag isn't the most stable as is on .85 to begin with.

What I did just find a bit ago, was that the 7800GD.INI file exists and it has the default values for the volume within it. So you can set the volume as you want there and it should remain as the default values. Same with the blending option as well.

Well, I'm in the same club as @nick3092 as my OSSC refuses to see any sync at all. Not even from the logo coming up. I've tried the settings that @Muddyfunster posted but no change. I've tried with two different c-sync Gen/MD RGB cables without success. But the AV out does work because it provides a great picture when I use my Rad2x off it. My OSSC is a ver 1.6 and I believe only running FW .85. It was the first FW revision to allow you name the profiles etc. but doesn't provide the means to export them. As a result, I've never upgraded it further because it means I have to write down every single damn setting in my OSSC for each of my over dozen different profiles I have set and I've just not had the motivation to do that. BTW one of the cables used is my Retro Gaming Cables Pack-a-punch c-sync MD RGB cables. Again... no sync. Oh well, it does work wonderfully with my built in UAV setup. Few things I will note is that the default TIA audio off the AV port is WAY TOO LOUD!!! I have to drop it down to like 5 bars to be roughly the same as the other audio output and similar to what my NTSC console puts out with the default resistor values. It would also be nice if the 7800GD would remember the settings you set so I don't have to adjust the audio for each time I change out a game with the reset function. But those are minor issues that I'm sure can be corrected for in future updates.... well except for the sync thing as I think that might require a hardware change?

Well, on most 800xls that I've done the UAV seem to provide a much better picture with little to no jail bars. However, such was NOT the case with my 130xe. it had jail bars before the UAV and still had them after regardless of the cables I used etc. I did notice that once I removed the RF modulator (to make room for my VBXE RGB output), that the jail bars lessened considerably through the UAV. I've also read where the composite is to blame and I was still using it but had it running from the UAV to the composite pin on the monitor out port and disconnected the original so no idea.

This is correct. The SaveKey and AVox both work the same way for saving game data. Just plug it into port 2 and if the game supports use of it, it just does it. In the case of @Muddyfunster's games, his latest ones will actually display screens telling you that pokey and savekey devices have been detected for use.

I'm pretty sure that when I worked with Phil over the phone that he redid your audio in the manner I've always done and still do to this day to correct for your low Pokey output with Rikki and Vikki? I'm not sure the issue you are showing is the same issue that is related to the audio stuff that Reaperman and SainT was talking about.

The factory reading with the controller loopback board to provide static readings will be 112 +|- 1 on the HORZ reading for port 1 when adjusting the Pokey itself. I just checked the values again on my loopback board. It uses a pair of 250k resistors to simulate static readings from the controller in what I would assume to be centered positions.

I believe they are actually 500k and I've actually not tried to read them at their halfway marks. But I would assume it to be around 250k. Although that can't be taken as being for sure because the actual pots inside the controllers are not moved their furthest extremes.

Very cool! But how are you routing the video and audio from the VCS adapter? Or are you using the VCS adapter by itself as its own device? Because the issue of getting a UAV inside the vcs adapter is awesome, but the real goal of this post I believe, was to find a way to get a UAV working for both the VCS adapter and the 5200 with the 5200 still providing the power etc. So basically how to get the video from the VCS adapter mixed with the 5200's UAV essentially. The main issue is the lack of empty pins on the cartridge port to accomplish this.

You will either need to restore C10 or at the least, jumper across it. That is the connection directly off the External audio line from the Cart port. So it goes through C10 first, and then to the south leg of R5 before going back up through the RF section. So if you don't have a 100nf or similar small mlcc cap to put there, then just run a small section of wire to restore it. Then continue from there as per my old docs like you read.

Again, the way your audio is being handled in your current 7800 with that older AV mod is likely the issue and it can be corrected fairly easily.

He is playing that on the 8-bit computer. He even mentions how much better he feels it would have controlled if it has been on the 5200.

Excellent and good to know!

Thanks for providing that! Now does the game drive menu come up normally through your s-video output? Because it doesn't have to rely on the RGB output. So just to make sure the cart is working otherwise. Again, I'm not sure if you have done that but wanted to ask? Otherwise, as I'm still waiting on my 7800GD (sometime next week), I can only speculate until I can do some testing of my own.

What is that supposed to be displaying or running? Is this NTSC or PAL? What cable from the AV out are your using with it specifically?

Wow I made my video on the process 6 years ago, I had no idea it was that far back!

Yes you can have more than one of them bad. The flowchart usually does a good job of stepping you through this and with a scope attached, being able to look for the proper square waves that should be coming off them. There are actually 3 of them in the 2 port console. One by each of the ports and a third one further right that I think is the 'master' before the pokey if memory serves. Could be that one is problematic as well. U13 I want to say?

The TMS-RGB or the more expensive F18a if you can get one are the best options for original hardware. But you asked for cheap which, is why I didn't bring them up initially. I have the TMS-RGB in mine and it is pretty much emulation output on a modern display yes. But, the way the TMS-RGB or F18A works, they will NOT provide video output from the expansion module 1. For that you still have to add in a separate composite AV upgrade for that purpose. I know @Ruggers Customs does this on their TMS-RGB setups where they install both the RGB but also a separate composite board and route it to the composite pin on the RGB output 9-pin so that you can use both RGB for CV games, but also have composite for CV, and expansion module use while also providing compatibility with cables like the Rad2x, HDREtrovision cables...etc.

Well I go through the process on my older refurb video where I was showing the foil dots bit... but I also made a PDF guide on it about 20 years ago that goes through the process as well. Atari 5200 Repair Doc I would attach it but it is on the large size given the little optimization used in the photos I took back then so the link above should get you to it.

That is an awesome thing but sadly the options are limited if you wanted composite and s-video using standard jacks in the process or keep functioning RF out. Then you have to do something like this...

I can understand that but again, the person or persons behind this new website and project and well known in the community and I don't have any reason to feel they would scam anyone or not stand behind the products they offer.

I should also mention that the way the audio is handled on this mod will cause you issues in the future. For starters on your picture of what you have done, I don't see any wire to handle the external audio line in off the cartridge port? So Pokey games won't have any audio and that will be noticed with flash carts as well. The only audio pickup I do see is directly off the TIA audio output and there isn't any resistors or anything to drop the audio level down to a more proper level. So even if you do add in the pokey external audio, you are still going to have balance issues with the TIA always overpowering the pokey audio and making it difficult to hear or hear at all with games that use both TIA and pokey like Commando. In the future, as you have the equipment, just remove the RF modulator completely if you don't want it there. But also know there are other AV upgrade options that don't require having to remove anything off the system to use them that will produce as good and likely even better results.

It is possible that PayPal was removed as an option or something similar. You see, it was the paypal transaction that gave their identity away to me in the first place. In the email they sent me, they stated that wasn't supposed to happen and they were working with PayPal on it to get that corrected. So perhaps PayPal isn't working for them at this time because of that?

Strange, I didn't have any issues and just paid through PayPal. Only took a few days for them to arrive too which, was nice considering I chose the cheapest shipping method.

That is because the owners told me not too as they wish to remain anonymous at this time. That said, a little sleuthing will likely get you on the right track. I actually did mention who it was in the original FB group post in the comments once I bought them. I the received a private email through FB from them to remove the comment and any mention of them. So I did...