-^CrossBow^-

The shrink tubing once it cools basically hardens up like plastic. So two layers of it around each of the posts secures them in place well and even if the plastic internally should crack, then the tubing keeps it in place enough to still do the job. Another idea although tricker would be to epoxy the pieces in place including the centers and then drill them back out and tap them. But I'm not that accurate enough with a drill for that kind of precision. Also, I'm sure you already know this, but I use a scoring tool to scratch the plastic internally in the area for the repair and around the base if needed, and then clean it all with IPA. The scratches give the epoxy something to leech into and secure into place as an anchor vs just drying on top of the smooth plastic.

And that is one of the more brittle case shells discussed earlier in another thread. Again, I can tell by the rectangular shape around the original RF opening where the plastic is different textured and out of place from the rest of the shell. So not sure what you used to cut it but you did good!

I was pretty sure of that, but the question was made that someone was going to reach out to his US distro to see if they had them and I knew you handled that so I tagged you in my reply. Thanks for confirming that the kits aren't available currently.

Pretty sure I did the work on this console about 2 years ago. If anyone wants more detailed pics of the work done internally, they can reach out to me although I suspect the OP might still have the originals I sent to them back in Nov 2021 when the services were first provided.

Right yours doesn't show the large rectangular molding mark I'm talking about. I don't have a pic of it, but the top shell on the inside near the center of it will also have a strange wedge like shape of extra plastic molded that stick ups. In all instances, I've seen both that odd top shell abnormality and the section near the RF together on those 7800s. So they are part of the same mold set.

The case shell that I'm specifically talking about is easy to see visually as it looks physically different from most others. Look closely around the opening where the RF output usually is. You can see in this picture below that the case shell molding shows that at one point this mold had a large rectangular opening that was filled in later. I've only see these case shells are later made 7800s. This one was listed as an A3 on the serial number but all the chips inside it were mid '88 as I recall. So I don't know if this is an indicator that the shells were made from different places and these molds happen to be different from a particular location or what. But this is the way I can tell these case shells that usually tend to have more brittle plastic than others.

You already have your answers now, but I also did reply to your post in the 2600 section for this with a pic and points showing which connection from the resistor attaches to which point on the UAV. I actually get my power and Ground from much closer near the RF modulator section but those can be had from anywhere. I actually posted a pic from the Rev 13 I did just last month but the Rev 12 and 13 are the same in the points to pick the signals from off the resistors near the TIA.

Don't know as I've never looked or tried to order replacements. All of mine on my controllers are in still in good condition.

Paper serial number sticker? I've NOT had any luck with that as the paper will still tear in the process of trying to remove it. The labels are on the bottom of the 7800 shell are NOT like the cartridge labels as they aren't laminated in any way and they are not foil tape type stickers either.

The green terminal block on the UAV is the OUTput side...mostly. Going from the top down: Ground - this can be used either as input ground or output ground. I tend to use it for output ground to my AV jacks. Comp Video - This is the composite video OUTPUT to your AV jacks Luma - is the Luma (Luminence) Output to an s-video AV jack Chroma is the Color Output to an s-video AV jack Color In - is an INPUT only via and you connect this to pin 9 of the TIA. Now... lets talk about your revision a bit. Yours is actually very easy to wire up compared to the other example above because everything is pretty much right there in a row on the Rev 12 and Rev 13 boards. Here is a pic diagram of the wiring I used on the last Rev 13 2600 I did just a month ago. The numbers below the solder points are the matching numbers along the center of the UAV board. This is why I do NOT get the preassembled boards and use the basic UAVs for most of my setups because it is easier for me to just solder the wiring straight to the point on the UAV that is needed vs messing with the jumpers etc. You can still do this if you have the jumper header block installed. Do that by NOT using the jumpers and just solder the wiring to the matching pin of the header in the same spot as the numbers shown below on the UAV side. Again, this is along the center section of the UAV where you likely have a header pin set soldered into place that is blocking some of this. The power and ground connections to the UAV can be gotten off the 2600 board in the same locations I've shown in the other pics further up. That part doesn't change although the location of the RF output jack does change, but otherwise, the points shown are in the same places.

ResQ is excellent and I want to say that the company that made it did basically released it to public domain so that folks could run it in emulators etc. I've got a really nice repro cart of ResQ that I had made up for playing on my actual Genesis. Pretty sure I've got a Pulseman as well.

I've not tested this myself but a standard 3 button Genesis controller can be used with I think Button C acting as the fire button. But on 7800 games it doesn't work quire right if memory serves. What you have seen referenced on the 7800 side, is that it is possible to use a Genesis 3 or 6 button controller on the 7800 if you use an adapter like the Ed Laddin Seagull 78 or the Mega78. That said, the Mega78 or at least the first revision of the Mega78 like I have, treats the retro-bit 6 button controller as a 3 button controller. Newer versions of the Mega78 recognize the Retro-bit 6button as a proper 6 button genesis controller.

I've already sent his 7800 back his way in the mail. So it he were to replace it out, all of the AV jacks would need to be redone. But that is tempting for someone like me who has an A3 series 7800 that strange enough has chips with '84 date stamps in sockets with the expansion port attached to it... Hmmm.. What's the best way to transfer a serial number sticker?

Well the 4050 is only still needed if you plan to still use the RF output. If you don't care to keep that working, then the 4050 isn't needed at that point. but as you already have it reattached to the UAV that is moot. Okay, so given that if you leave it off for a bit it will work briefly indicates that something is getting hot very quickly and shutting down power to part of the circuit. Issues like this, I always follow the ASAP rule... Always Start At Power So you need to get a voltmeter and verify that input voltage and output voltage from the twin voltage regulators in the system. Those are the small squares that are screwed down onto the large black plates near the power area. You measure the voltage with a meter by putting the black probe of the meter along any ground point on the board. Can even touch the RF modulator housing as that is always attached to ground. The red probe when attached to the left most leg or pin of the voltage regulator is the INPUT voltage. That will be somewhere around 10 - 12v on average from a 5200. The right most leg or pin of the voltage regulator is the output voltage that is provided to the rest of the 5200 logic. That should read around +5v. So the VR readings need to be checked first and then we work our way down from there to see if the culprit can be found.

Was it working properly prior to any modification work being done? If it wasn't or that wasn't tested, then it could also be a flaky voltage regulator that isn't doing its job properly etc. There are a number of things it could be. On the IC side of things, I'd start with the CPU first. Did you keep the 4050 IC in place when you installed the UAV or did you remove it completely? If you left it in place, I was going to suggest pulling the UAV out and just testing on RF output to help isolate the UAV setup as being part of the issue.

@TwentySixHundred Here are some of my suggestions for the game play to help game play balance a little: - Make it be required that you have to get 9 eggs vs the 6 - Add some sort of RNG to the bird's appearance because currently I can tell is it is on a timer and I can pretty quickly predict when he will be coming out - Couldn't tell on this one just yet, but the original caveman VFD game you could stand by the eggs back at your cave and protect them from the birds. Seems on yours it requires haven't to take them out else they will steal an egg regardless - I like the idea of adding one more movement to the mama dino so that there is a bit more to see there visually - Might limit how many boom-a-rangs you can toss at once as it is very easy currently just spam them at the dino and birds. If you were limited to maybe only 3 that you can toss and then it has to regenerate over some time, that might help - Change the background and other palette of colors ever so many levels. The other suggestions provided to help make it more like the Caveman game it is based on are all excellent ideas, but don't be afraid to add or change things to make the game your own as well. I did see a graphical bug appear in the upper left where the level indicator shows between rounds. Looked like a square of grey rock title that was there. I will get this onto a flash cart to play on my actual console and record some a bit later to see if I can replicate it there also and show you more what I'm talking about.

I've worked on and sent all over 100 7800s through the mail and to the best of my knowledge everything was fine. But I have had about 3 thar arrived with some cracks to the case or pieces broken off. It is usually the boss posts in the rear section that break. In fact this posts will break if you crank down on the screws to much when putting them back in.

Is that a 3rd button on the top of joystick or just the design of the ball top? I can kinda see what looks like a seam around that top circle like it might be independent of the rest of the molding and able to be pressed?

That is a mid 1990 made system so perhaps this was needed as a timing adjustment? The 7800 is never a boring console to work on and really seems to have been a patchwork console from the beginning needing bodges like this on case by case basis.

If enough of those pieces can be found, you can fix that. I use a little bit of epoxy to get those pieces back into place followed with some shrink tubing around the posts to both hold them in place and provide additional strength. In fact, I usually apply 2 layers of shrink tubing around each of those rear boss posts to help with that going forward.

Yes I made mention of that in the AA discord server but don't believe anything was discussed about it.

@Dire 51 has given permission so here it is. Keeping in mind I attached what I was able to find rattling around inside the case. Looks like the point of impact was right on the corner. This is the repair with flash on to show all the details of the cracks etc... Head on it isn't as noticed... And without the flash in more natural light it isn't as obvious. I tried something new that worked well to keep the epoxy from leeching through the cracks too much. Found that tin foil tape holds really well to the textured surface and help keep things in place while waiting for the epoxy to cure.

Yes you should be fine. Just like the other revisions listed, you will still need to attach wiring from the TIA pins 2, 5, 7, 8, and 9. Audio can also be gotten straight off 12 and 13, or find a point on the board just a little after that where they are already tied together and mixed. As you have a Rev 17, you will also need to remove the 820Ω resistor that ties pins 6 and 9 of the TIA together or else the colors will be skewed from the UAV. That resistor is the usually the very first one just right of the TIA. You only need to lift one of the leads of that resistor off the board to take it out of circuit.

I'm not saying that at all. I'm just stating that many of the later made A3 and X series have plastic that is more brittle than the plastic of older made ones. After 40 years, they are all brittle to some degree and the conditions in which the console was stored will also play a factor.

Yes I've seen that before but just never bothered to make up a set. Honestly I'm able to pretty much troubleshoot most issues on the 7800 between the 7800 Utility cartridge, Paul Slocum's Test Cart, and the 2600 diagnostic cart plus the troubleshooting pages for the 7800. The good thing about the 7800 having a 2600 inside it, is that most of the stuff and circuit for the 2600 consoles is mimicked on the 7800. An example is the paddle lines. There is no difference in the circuit schematics for those so the same tests for the 2600 paddle line issues can be used on the 7800.