-^CrossBow^-
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Posts posted by -^CrossBow^-
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I finally got this to work but it required some very specific stuff to do it.
First is that the ONLY spartados image I've found to work is the one from Brewing Academy's tnfs server. But even then, I had to copy it onto the SD card as just loading it via wi-fi wouldn't seem to work. That got Spartdos loading up. I then have to load up @Piotr D. Kaczorowski atr file that has the FC.COM and XBF config files in it to another slot on the FujiNet. From there I switch drives once Spartdos loads and run the FC.com and everything works as expected now. When I use @tebe's ATR, I can get the FC.com to load up, but then all of the info in the program is essentially blank and doesn't seem to 'see' my VBXE. While the FC.com from Piotr's does. No idea why that is...but there we go.
I've got the NTSC palette showing now through my VBXE and the game RGB finally looks correct!
So yeah it was a bit of a trial for me but I got it.
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13 minutes ago, _The Doctor__ said:
Can't hurt to give it a shot, NEC or NCR chips sometimes help.
It was an NEC and I already had in that spot. I went ahead and pulled it and replaced it with a matching Samsung same as the others, and the FujiNet seems to boot up more reliably as a result now? I don't know, I'm not touching it at this point LOL! I feel like my 130xe has it out for me.
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1 hour ago, DrVenkman said:
Okay, SpartaDOS X is not bootable from an ATR. But you can load Piotr's ATR in the D2: slot of your FujiNet, then something like SpartaDOS 3.2 in the D1: slot and boot (hold OPTION to suppress BASIC). From the SpartaDOS command line, you would then run FC (e.g., D2:FC.COM) and then try to flash your board.
I will look for a Spartados image and give this a try. Although again, I'm suspecting something is up with my VBXE at this point vs how I'm trying to load it all up. But, I'm willing to give as much as I can a try here with what I can access and use LOL! Thanks all for the assistance in this!
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All this talk of the start up errors has finally answered a question I've had in my head since I replaced all of the RAM in my 130xe about a year or 2 ago. It will frequently start up with just a blue screen and static cursor but no audio and appear hung. It will always come up this way until I leave it off for like a min and then try and boot it up again. I replaced all of the original MT ram with Samsung that was given to me sometime back. I'm guessing that even my replacing out that first NCR RAM with one of these is why my 130xe frequently comes up in this state when powering off/on? Maybe I need to pop that NCR back into the first bank again?
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4 hours ago, Piotr D. Kaczorowski said:
ATR image for SpartaDOS X containing the files fc.com and v2x126a3.rbf. This is basic core with NTSC palette, without 320KB Rambo and for the latest VBXE 2.0 oraz 2.1 boards.
Installation verified. Video available on AtariAge Discord in hardware-mods.
I will give this a try a bit later as I still have the 130xe setup. Will load it up on my FujiNet as the file is too large to load up on my UnoCart.
*UPDATE*
No dice. The new ATR just throws BOOT ERROR down the screen from the FujiNet. Doesn't matter if I hold down OPTION or not when trying to boot the ATR. The only ATR that I can get to load so far is the MyDOS ATR of this update, but then that doesn't seem to actually update as I've stated.
Is there someone that I can send my VBXE board to, to try and get this done perhaps? Maybe there is something wrong with my VBXE that has been there since day one I've never known about since this is the first time I've tried to make any changes to it?
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Okay, not having any luck with getting mine to flash apparently. As I'm not at all familiar with any of the actual DOS applications for Atari, it took me a bit and a user guide from an emulator of all things to finally figure out that the letter "L" is to load a binary file, only on the menu it is labeled as Load Memory so I didn't know that was for executing or running files labeled that way.
Anyway, I get FC.com running and press enter on the currently selected B1 bank and it pulls up the cores. I selected the one that I thought would go with my VBXE being the V2x126a3 core, but it comes back telling me wrong VBXE version? I can load up the v1x126a3 core and that goes through the flash, but then it errors on the verification and kicks me back to FC.com
Unless I've got some sort of odd bootleg VBXE (Pretty sure I don't) it should be a 2.1 VBXE as that is what is marked on the VBXE board so I'm not sure why the v2 core files all come up telling me wrong VBXE version?
Needless to say, it isn't taking the flash process so seems to remain as it was before.
I've attached a pic of the VBXE installed into my 130xe. States 2.1 on the top but apparently these 2x cores don't like it?
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2 minutes ago, Piotr D. Kaczorowski said:
Right understood, but I've not ran any actual executable type files from off my 130xe since I finally decided to check it out just a few years ago. I only own software on cart as I haven't a working disk drive or tape drive. So yeah, using the fujinet beyond just loading single ATR/XEX type files will be a new one to me LOL!
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Off topic I guess, but until these newer cores etc. were released I didn't know there was anything specific for the 5200 and VBXE? So the VBXE can be used with a 5200? Any instructions on the install procedure for that? What about an NTSC 5200 core to be developed? Because if the VBXE is usable on the 5200, then that is awesome since the Sophia II isn't exactly readily available.
Also thanks @tebe for the files. I'm still not quite sure how they are used, but I guess I will try copying this stuff over to my FujiNet and set what I can figure out.
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@juansolo Not anything quite that severe but the fact you stated it is happening with both 2600 and 7800 games leads me to either the CPU or the RIOT. 2600 games aren't using the extra VRAM far as I know and only use what is in the 2600 hardware chips in the console.
I have seen something similar but again not this bad due to a faulty 7432 that feeds some of the signals to the RF section and is before where we tap them off the board for UAV.
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21 minutes ago, x=usr(1536) said:
Wait... I thought time machines were for going back in time and killing Hitler.
i thought it was you go back in time, snag all of the Jaguars, JagCDs, Earthbound carts...etc. that end up being worth a ton later at closeout prices?
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For me I was using the game RGB with the robot you control that has to access the colored panels as an example of what the colors should be. On the VBXE those colors on the title screen are not the colored Red, Green, and Blue but more like maroon, teal, and purple if I recall and no amount of adjusting the trimmer in my 130xe would correct for it. So I would think that as long as those colors can be made to at lest represent what they are on that games title screen, it is a good universal start.
Might just use the ACP (?) test screen as well but then for some odd reason, I think it actually tends to look correct through the VBXE when games don't so... I would need to check that again.
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I made this one last year for a client. They sent in a set of 2600 paddles with broken plastics so I could use the pot and knob from them to make one good looking and working 5200 paddle controller. I found and used a couple of washers to fit within the center space to keep the pot stem centered, and a larger washer to lock it all together inside. I was able to reuse the controller boot to hide the nuts and washers holding it all together and was able to set it so it was quite near flush with everything making for a pretty stock look when it was done.
If I were to try and do this again though, I think it would be best for someone to 3D print a bracket that would more easily fit in the space and secure the pot better etc. Would make it quite an easy task for those wanting one for breakout, or pole position...etc.
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5 hours ago, Snowbound1996 said:
So are those port openings still there? And would they work if you could plug a controller into them?
Like @x=usr(1536) stated, there isn't where to install the ports to. I just meant that the case shells themselves are basically the same and that the shells still have the holes for the other 2 ports but the plastic bezel covers the openings on the 2 port. The mainboard is designed differently to only address 2 ports and is missing the extra logic needed to add the other 2 back in nor anywhere easy to just shoehorn that in.
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@juansolo So essentially the minor color bleed that is still present on the NTSC is due to something interferring with the chroma output off the Maria? I mean, pulling that pin or isolating it if soldered to the board isn't that difficult, but then it means the RF is out of the picture at that point?
I might go ahead and try this on my lab unit that has a UAV in it already along with the chroma fix on one of my boards. So basically, lift the chroma and just run that straight to the UAV bypassing the need for the chroma fix? Or run that to the MC in on the chroma fix still?
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3 minutes ago, ymike673 said:
Would that also work with a 4 port with the switch box? I have an older LCD TV with an RF import.
Provided your LCD has the ability to find and use analog RF it should be usable yes. But some TVs just won't work on these older consoles. An example is a 2600 I just added an AV upgrade into for another person because their LCD refuses to see the 2600 at all. They thought the 2600 wasn't working until they brought it to me and it worked fine on my setup. So it just depends on the LCD. Just because you have a coax input on the back, doesn't always mean it can use the older signals.
That said, if your TV features a channel scan option that allows for both analog ANT and digital, then you are likely good to go and it can be made to work. Just have to power on the system with a game in it and then have the TV do a channel scan so it can see the 5200 and lock in on that channel to select it.
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7 hours ago, Snowbound1996 said:
I know there's a bunch of controller adapters for the 5200 that let you use Genesis and 2600 controllers on the 5200, but is there an adapter that just adds 2 extra controller ports for 4 player support? The reason why I ask is that I recently stumbled upon a *really* interesting looking 5200 with a custom colour design on it, but it's a 2 port mode, and I'd love to play it with friends over.
Any help would be much appreciated, thanks.If you weren't aware, the case shells between the 2 and 4 port aren't really that different. What is different is that on the 2 port models, the front plastic bezel that goes over the front, was molded to hide the 2 extra port opening that the 4 ports have. So my point is that you can swap that out to a degree but I've honestly never been successful at removing the front bezel without it snapping.
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15 minutes ago, chevymad said:
I bought a couple different monitors trying to get VBXE to work natively without a conversion box. One was supposed to work, but doesn't. Even worse when I switched the machine to pal 50hz as well. Tried the GBS frame doubler, but kept getting oddly shaped screens or other problems. Even with Mytek's firmware. Finally switched to an older Vizio tv which is fine with 50hz. Using that and an OSSC, I get a decent picture. But Sophia was plug and play with better picture and color. Here in the US, the 15khz signal is a deal breaker. I think I tried 4 different screens before getting one to work acceptably.
I got the VBXE working fine on my OSSC setup at 60hz by using a 9pin RGB setup and running composite from the UAV to pin4 on the 9pin as required by quite a few of the Sega type scaler devices. The problem I have is that the colors are just wrong and look off on several games and programs I run through that RGB output.
I don't care about NTSC artifacting as any game or program that relies on it, I can just use the composite from the UAV for that. I was just hoping to get a nice clear RGB output with proper colors and I do get a nice picture output, but wrong colors. So the actual signal etc. has never been an issue for me just the colors it outputs on software that isn't VBXE specific.
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I'm going to say no in most cases as the TIA is pretty far forward towards the front of the main board with other components around it making that difficult. The RIOT is a no go due to how close it is to the cartridge slot section. Not saying to see if you can give it a try, but I do think it will be difficult and perhaps not possible.
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21 minutes ago, GranitePenguin said:
I came here for the same thing (needed to look up a cap on the switch board). That pdf link is dead, but the wayback machine has it:
https://web.archive.org/web/20160513135205/http://www.atariguide.com/pdfs/Atari_2600_VCS_Domestic_Field_Service_Manual.pdfThere is also the console5.com wiki that contains many of the service manual PDFs and is usually where I get most of mine from that I download and keep locally on my computer for reference.
https://wiki.console5.com/tw/images/e/ec/2600_Field_Service_Manual.pdf
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Well, I'm in that camp of I have a VBXE and no U1MB because I only use my 130xe to play games and as it is NTSC there hasn't been anything I've been that interested in playing that needed more than the 128k it already had on it. So yeah... I got the VBXE because it was a means to provide RGB at a less cost than the Sophia and was available at the time unlike the other. I purchased mine from a US distro and they didn't state that the colors were PAL. Only an option on which position you wanted the jumper to come to you already set to. I understand that jumper is for the speed clocks, but still it wasn't made clear then that the colors on actual games would be off. Only those games made and using the VBXE look correct. Everything else, I'm essentially relegated back to using the s-video output.
So I've hoped for sometime that another FW update would be made for it that could offer NTSC but just assumed it would never come to be. So my VBXE is used for those games or programs that utilize it and it isn't for those that don't display correctly.
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22 minutes ago, goodtofufriday said:
Thanks so much! And thanks for the lead on firebrands post. Does seem he's changed the circuit a bit with a 4 layer board.
Yes and I actually advise using his setup for this because you will notice the heatsink in that pic? That isn't for the 3438 as is a CMOS part I believe and doesn't get hot while it has been found that the 2612 gets really really hot and so having the 3438 piggy backed onto it, isn't likely that great a thing when you think about it. I actually removed the piggy back setup sometime ago when I used his earlier Double Mega boards and helped test them for him. His new design is much better as originally they were more L shaped and took up quite a bit space as a result. For instance, it didn't really fit until the RF shield anymore with the earlier setups.
But yeah I need to reach out to him and see if he has any of these ready as I've got 3438s on hand already to populate them with.
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6 minutes ago, goodtofufriday said:
So Sorry to super Necro this post but it seems the original photo for the schematics are lost, imgur link is dead. Would you happen to still have it or a newer one?
Thanks
Oh... yeah I hadn't have anyone request this in a LONG time. (Still sitting on a small stock of 3438s hehe). I might have copied the original scheme to my console docs folders so I will look in a bit. But, there is a slightly better way to do this now. FirebrandX about a year or two after I did this, came out with a board to make this easier called the M1 Double Mega that allows you to have both the 2612 and 3438 on a single PCB with a switch to select which chip you want active. He hasn't made them in a while as he was trying to provide the 3438s to go with them and having issues with that. But might try and reach out to him to see if can get the boards made up so folks can try to source their own chips.
And yes... I did grab the pic of the scheme for this and have added it to this post.
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On 8/20/2023 at 12:19 PM, Karl G said:
I've been looking forward to this game for a long time, but I had been putting off playing it until I could play the full game on hardware with POKEY music. Now I can do that, and I've been enjoying playing the retail ROM and slowly making progress.
Unfortunately I got a yellow screen playing on Kanika today. I don't know anything different I did compared to the other times I've played, so I'm not sure how to replicate it.
Well, I just updated Karl's DF to the latest 1.09 FW on his DF around the 11th so that part is up to spec. In fact, I believed I played some EXO from his DF on my lab unit 7800. So that takes me to the next thought.. let me check some pics...
And...yeah his 7800 has one of the 'wonderful' Rockwell Mexico made 6502s in it. Also has a Rockwell TIA also which, I'm not sure I've seen before or noticed until now?
I didn't take any pics of the bottom of the console so I don't know if he has the deglitch cap added off the 6502's A15 line or not, although I did disable his extra timing circuit.
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18 minutes ago, swlovinist said:
You recommended a Triad Magnetics WSU090-2000 power adapter for the dragonfly I do believe.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/triad-magnetics/WSU090-2000/3094951
Yes that should do the business just fine and I see it is center positive polarity which, is correct for the DF.
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Atari 2600 - Game Compatibility/Display Issues
in 7800 GameDrive Support
Posted
@ZeroPage Homebrew uses a Tink5x Pro in their streams with their RGB upgraded 2600. Although I think they actually use component output vs the actual RGB, but still I believe using the Tink5x triple buffer mode, helps reduce the issue with a lot of the games. Not sure about buck rogers as that is the only game that gives me any issues both on my UAV outputs and even the RF on my TV. That game's title screen just does NOT play nice with my main gaming display.