-^CrossBow^-

They are gold plated small discs that are stuck onto the rubber underneath quite securely. Not sure what they used for it exactly but they are aren't likely to come off anytime soon.

If you still have all stock components in your controller or it has never been serviced, then you are likely to want the complete the kit.

I've not purchased or seen Best's current offering as their price has always kept me away. That said, I've seen their previous ones they did offer and that I believe are mostly out there in the wild. That mylar was the same thickness as the Atari revisions, didn't have any pre stuck tape to help keep the mylar in place, and didn't have the larger contact surfaces on that mylar. I only know this because the controller that had this, was sent to me as it wasn't working with several of the buttons not responding very well. Turned out, that even with the gold plating on everything, they still get grimy and can lose enough conductance to to cause mis reads on the controller. I'm sure that can happen with these new ones from Atari Repair Parts as well over time like anything. But the point remains, whether these are clones or not, they are half the cost and work better for me than anything else I've used over the past 20 years. If Best's current version of their kits are the same, then that is great. But they are still 50% more in cost and you still have to abide by Brad's rules. For someone like me that gets requests to refurb controllers along with other services, someone like Best doesn't fit me because of the limits they impose.

I've played a game with one of the Best upgraded controllers and at least to me, these kits are pretty much on part with the ones from Best and better in a few ways while also being 50% less in cost.

That is what I had been told along the grapevine. The only one I have was one that up and decided to die a few hours in during burn in testing that Tim replaced for me. But back to your question, I would likely just tap in from the output pads on the 2600 RGB but again, play with different value resistors to dial it in. I tend to start with 10k and then work my way down from there.

I don't have one of those on hand at the moment to verify, but I'd imagine you could just tap from off his actual audio output pads. But still likely require playing with different resistors to get it balanced out and to be sure that the TIA doesn't overpower the AVOX..or vice versa. Since you brought it up... those kits still unavailable for the time being?

Well, you can go for getting a set of the new replacements offered by Atarirepairparts.com. I've got a set in one of my controllers and it works well and for the price, I'm not likely to bother with the foil dots anymore LOL! https://atarirepairparts.com/#f5d432b6-742d-4a2a-bbe2-dd283d6cec00

Sure, nothing fancy I assure you. I just ran a wire with another 6.8k resistor inline to the same point where the pokey and TIA are mixed. That is ran to both L/R legs of the 3.5mm jack I installed. Ground was attached to a nearby point. I attached both L/R because the avox is mono output only anyway. But I could have left just one side attached and it would have worked the same. Now just plug a 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cable from the avox to the new audio input. From there the Avox at about the halfway point on the its internal volume should about in balance with the TIA/POKEY so you can hear it through games. You can adjust the Avox volume as needed to suit your needs. I typically use Juno 1st to more or less balance it by ear on the volume levels since I want to hear the TIA audio clearly, but also want to be able to hear when the Avox announces the next Wave etc. clearly. Again, really simple and inexpensive to do. Same thing on the 2600 only I used a 2.2k resistor for that as 6.8k was too much. But depending on where you tap audio on the 2600, will determine what resistor values might work best.

No not a full internal Avox. @juansolo and @x=usr(1536) have implemented internal Avox setups in their consoles. Because I wanted to able to use my Avox on more than just one console, I went with an easier and cheaper way to just add in an additional audio input jack to be mixed in with the internal audio. So basically my Avox uses a short 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable to go from the Avox, into the audio input jack on the 7800 and then both the Avox audio and all other 7800 audio is then heard from the audio outputs on my console.

This is my thought. I do know that while I did state that the Hyperkin genesis to HDMI cable works and it does, it also crushes quite a few of the darker hues and they simply just don't seem to get shown on screen. I mainly noticed it with Knight Guy as all of the background details were essentially just not being shown, but when I plugged in my s-video output, it was all there as expected. I didn't plug in my Rad2x when I noticed this but I should have now that I'm thinking about all of this... Again, I'm just asking questions here...

What cable are you using for your 7800GD AV out that is on the left?

I just strip back the wiring and solder it to the pads directly at that point when the terminals start to break.

Well, you have pretty much done everything else so I would say it is a problem with the flex itself, or possibly a problem with a wire that has broken internally within the controller cable. Have you tried to keep pressing start while moving the cable itself around? I've found and confirmed breaks in the cable that way.

Just wanting to ask... why on this? Because if you are only wanting an easier way to connect up the audio without having to use a separate set of speakers each time, then it is very possible to just add an additional 3.5mm jack to the console and wire it up with a resistor so that you can run the audio from the Avox directly to the console and have all the audio come out through RF or RCAs etc...if you have an AV upgrade in place. I did this with a Jr model not long ago and it works well. Much easier and cheaper to just add in the extra jack to act as an audio input. This way you can plug the Avox in as needed still for those games that support it and have an easier way to handle the audio output. And for someone like me, I prefer to not have the Avox be permanent in the console since I want to use it with multiple systems like the 2600, 7800, and my Vectrex.

I was trying to iterate that without just coming out and saying it. But I agree, I have to do the same thing with the OSSC because as you said, there isn't one universal setting that works for all of my consoles. I have to create different profiles with different values and some have masking options enabled and some don't. Just part of the fun of dialing it all in I thought?

Received this in the mail yesterday. This is the shortest amount of time that I've ordered something from LRG and had it arrive within a week of ordering it. But to be fair, they already had these made up and ready to ship out.

I posted this in the original pluscart thread but @Al_Nafuur referred me to this one. I wanted to mention that Ninjish guy doesn't appear to send over the final score when you beat the game? I've tested it several times and the only way my scores are uploaded is when I end the game losing all of my hearts (lives). So that might need looked into? I've screen shots of the final score I can send along.

Except that my other scores just prior where I didn't beat the game, were showing up just fine. My cart logs in automatically when powered one since I have several scores from yesterday that were all getting up dating and showing up without issue. It was only when finishing Ninjish Guy that I noticed the final score doesn't seem to get uploaded.

I did notice that @evietron released a new update to the BBpro late last week or maybe over the weekend that specifically states added support for JLP for Intellivision. So I haven't tested this as I don't think I have any jlp roms in my library but yeah... I noticed it. Here is the link to the revisions list that shows all the changes made on each FW up to current 3.20 that states JLP support. https://www.backbit.io/downloads/Firmware/BackBit/Revisions.txt

Not sure where you are seeing that? On my 7800GD the trace directly off the encoder goes straight to the Sync on pin5 and there is a tiny trace connecting pin5 to pin4. It is pin4 (Usually the composite video signal) that is being used by many of the known cables for c-sync. There might be other resistors etc before that IC chip but not from the IC directly to the pins on the AV out.

If there is a more specific thread for this question, then I apologize ahead of time. But I was using my plus cart yesterday while working on a 2600 (Testing actually), and I noticed that the final score when you beat Ninjish Guy doesn't seem to get recorded to the online high score site? Is there something specific that needs to be done when I finish the game for that final score to get sent and uploaded?

This is quite accurate as I just purchased about 2 weeks ago, a pack of 3 32GB micros SD made by Lexar that work fine in both my Dragonfly and the 7800GD. I think that pack of 3 was like $14 through Amazon shipped and I got them in just a few days. I only needed one to use with my 7800GD but figured I might have uses for the other two in the future. Point is, it isn't that expensive to purchase 16 or 32GB microSDs to use and while 90% of that space is likely to NEVER get used with these cartridges, it does work or seems to and is about the smallest you can buy for cheap these days. Maybe if more games can be made to take advantage of the streamining audio ability of the 7800GD, we might start to get more complex sound tracks for games and those audio files would require much more space over time.

Hmm... I will go back and take a peek. Don't recall a setting for that but the ROMs do have IRQ in their name yes.

After setting the covox@430 flag on the Covox demos I have, they are working save for two of them. The main one being the Portal demo that uses dual Pokey, TIA, and Covox all at the same time. I'm able to hear the TIA and just barely any pokey, but the covox is still abscent from this demo. My guess is that the covox isn't being set at $430 on this particular demo and might be at a different address? But otherwise yes...it is working.

I think I've only installed one of the retrosix replacements into a Lynx II but that last year sometime and I've not heard of anything from that client. I do have several more still on hand that I got from Retrosix directly when they were first offered.