-^CrossBow^-

Modern Technology @sirlynxalot!

Yes, many of the vias on the Vectrex aren't really true vias and so the Vectrex is one of the systems where I purposely high water install the caps so I can apply solder to both sides of the PCB for each lead to make sure everything is making proper contact. There are also two caps under the large heatsink on the power board that you need to get replaced. So once you remove that heatsink and get them out, I highly suggest installing them on the back side of the PCB so that they can be gotten to much easier in the future, and also be separated more from the heat in that area.

No issues with the fire buttons on mine, just the top row buttons seeming to sit lower than they did originally but that is a very minor thing. Are you sure you have everything lined up properly? Although given the very large surface area of these replacements, I'd be surprised of any alignment issues.

Yes, all audio from the expansion devices including the SegaCD feed back through the main Genesis audio circuit and can be heard on the headphone jack. Audio from the AV port on the model 1 however, is mono output only so you pretty much have to use the headphone port, or if you have a SegaCD attached, you can use the RCAs those provided for audio as well. Mine all have audio modifications in them to improve the audio output so I have separate RCAs installed on the main Genesis console that I use for all the audio output. I only use the 32x for the video output to my HDRetrovision cables.

I made a comment about it on your YT channel as well, but basically you are just moving Bernie too slow on that first level to take out that last block. What I do is stay on the very top rung of the ladder waiting for the enemy to move past above me going left. I then immediately move up, go right and start jumping on the block and you will find there is enough time. If you find that one challenging, well then I will tell that much tighter timing is needed on the later levels and that first board is one of the easiest that exists. But yeah...just need to move Bernie faster than you were to have the time needed to get the blocks. Because NO, Bernie is just as you see him. It is a puzzle platformer and the main part of it is that you need to watch the enemy patterns to accomplish the goal of taking out each star block on the screen.

The OEM 2600 PSU is rated for 500mA output? Same for the VR inside it and yeah I've had a few that read at least 12v without a load some nearly 13v. A heatsink is required on the 7805 inside the consoles with later made 6 switch and 4 switch etc... using a large ground plane on the main board as that heatsink to dissipate the heat. So the PSU only putting out 300mA is new to me when again, they are rated on the labels for 500mA? A stock 2600 with a pitfall 2 cart or flash cartridge like the Harmony actually draws about 320mA on average.

Well there lies the issue doesn't it? I had at least one other ROM that wouldn't run in 7800GD but did on my old Mateos and BBPro. It was because of this new V4 stuff and it required having to run the 'fix' command to combine v3 and v4 settings together. Now you are showing different entries for v3 and v4 in the above, but the 7800header utils doesn't seem to provide a way to specify different configuration sets for v3 and v4? Every change I make just shows on v3 and either doesn't show on v4 or ends up getting replicated to v4. So how in the heck are you guys settings these different set configurations for the v3 and v4 lines? Are you doing it manually through a hex editor vs the 7800header util as I don't believe the 7800header has a covox option in the command sets either?

I still can't get any of the Covox demos I have to produce any sound? is there a setting I'm missing somewhere as I did check the volumes and they are all the same.

Yes I mentioned the Hyperkin Cable set in my original post. It does work and work well, but I've noticed that a few of the much darker hues are being crushed in the output and just appear as black. It mainly seems to affect the background graphics in a few games where it doesn't show up or is hardly visible. But again, I suspect most folks aren't going to notice or care when the rest of it looks as good as it does.

I thought I was looking for an actual RED color so that is why I thought the color it was putting out was a bit strange. Guess I need to plug a legit 3 button to see if there is any difference in the LEDs color but I'm guessing not based on your statement above.

Nice! Are these only going to be available during PRGE or will they also be for sale afterwards in the AA store front?

They are higher quality flex mylars compared to the original Atari Rev 7 and Rev 9s I've been using for years I can say that much for sure. I actually find them a little too stiff and had trouble getting them to bend as easily for the fire button sides but yeah, I don't think these are going to wear out anytime too soon and while $25 for a set might still be too expensive for some folks, I know it is worth it if I don't have to really mess with them much anymore going forward as I did previously replacing my foil dots every few years.

Well the reto-bit does work as a 3-button controller just fine, it is just odd that the LED is showing up as a color that it shouldn't be is all. So I'm curious if the actual mode button held down as I power on the system will detect as a proper 3 button controller. Just not something I've tested since it was working otherwise.

I don't play fighters like MK or SF so if those games do have issues with the retro-bit 6 button controllers I wouldn't know. Everything else I've played that supported the 6-button controller on my Genesis or using the mode button to switch it to 3-button mode has worked great though! I should try and power on the setup with the 7800GD with the mode button pressed to see if it comes up with the proper 3-button LED light and support doing so? It isn't that big a deal since the START button will still bring up the break menu pausing the game, and allowing you to still save states and load states that way.

MULE or the 8-bit unreleased Star Raider II being discussed?

Interesting them mentioning that the cart slot is wider on the A version? One thing I will say about the 32x that I think is nice and is one of the reasons I keep it installed, is because the slot on my 84000 unit is just side enough to allow JPN MD carts to fit and since it is a non-TMSS unit, most region games that are NTSC just work. I did install a region switch however, for those few JPN games that are super picky but it rarely gets used. Another oddity with the VA2 model 1 or at least with mine, is that my region switch also has PAL EUR as a selection. But... the 240P test suite shows it to be a EUR but 60hz vs the 50hz I would have expected like my model 1 va6 shows? I've never been able to figure out why this is as the region mod is the same for all model 1 consoles and the fact that it does switch between the different regions and shows this in real time on the 240p Test Suite proves this. But this is the only Genesis I own where the region for EU doesn't switch the console to a 50hz output? So I assume some extra stuff was added to the later models to allow for this easily that wasn't a thing on the very early model 1 units? Anyway, do let us know your results with the A rev of the 32x!

@Muddyfunster I've played through this demo several times and haven't had any lock up issues although I did notice one very minor thing and one other thing that I do think is a bit important. The minor issue is that at least on the Egypt level screens that are dark, when you use the TNT and the flicker effect is taking place, that there is some graphical glitching that occurs. This is especially seen on the spike walls near the top of them. The more important issue, is that you when you complete the demo, you are taken back to the main menu screen. What about the score or the ability to enter your name in the high score section? Seems this only comes up when you loose all of your lives prior to completing the demo. So the demo and I would assume the game eventually, should take you back to the high score screen to enter in your initials once complete. BTW I've been playing the demo on my 7800GD thus far through s-video output on my main 7800 that also has a Kiloparsec BIOS installed. My 7800 has the bodge deglitch cap from the factory added off pin 25 of the 6502. I've never removed it or disabled it since I've not encountered any issues with games I've played on this console.

The MODE button was on the original controllers and on the Retro-Bit ones. You are to press it as you power on the console to have the controller switcher over to 3button only mode for those games that weren't compatible with a 6 button controller. I think Ms. Pac-Man is one such game. And yes @SainT the Retro-bit controller works great on my actual Genesis model 1 and in fact I like them so much I bought a second one to have on hand since my original 6 button controllers are getting long in the tooth obviously. I also need to mention that my actual 6 button Genesis controller from back in the day does indeed show as a 6 button controller plugged into the Mega 7800 as I'm getting a green light instantly when plugging it in. But yeah, the Retro-bit makes the LED turn pink when you have it inserted. I think it is a combo of the the red with a little bit of blue. Still works as a 3 button controller just fine but requires use of the Start button to do the save states or load from them.

I've mainly only been using the newer 6 button controllers made by Retro-bit a few years ago. On my Mega 7800, these controllers only appear to work in 2 button mode as the Z and X buttons don't seem to anything. Additionally, the mega 7800 LED shows up as the color pink/light purple vs Green or any of the other colors when I have one of these controllers plugged in? It does work but only as a 3 button controller as I can still use the Start button to bring up the Break menu and the A and B buttons work as buttons 1 and 2 as expected. But yeah, something about these Retro-bit controllers make them not appear as full 6 button to the Mega 7800?

They state they don't know as they didn't test it. But but the fact that it has controller ports etc., tells me it at least has a main board in it all the same. And I doubt they stripped it down internally for their 'art'.

I thought it might be a good idea to have a dedicated topic on the various cable setups that folks might be using that work or don't work with the current 1.0 revision of the 7800GD. My personal experience has been mixed in that I've only found 2 cable setups that work for me in my game room. Here is my game room setup equipment that I know has known issues per @SainT's tweets in the past that I've followed. I'm only going over the RGB setup and not the rest as that isn't relevant to this: What doesn't work:- All of my RGB setups use c-sync cables. Most of my cables are from Retro Gaming Cables from the UK using their packapunch cables. This includes my Genesis/MD 2 RGB cables. All of my RGB cables go into a Bandridge 3 way SCART auto switcher. The output of the switcher then goes into the SCART input on my OSSC 1.6 currently running v.9 firmware Everything from the OSSC is output via HDMI to an older Yamaha 5.1 AV receiver. HDMI video is passthrough on this device and it acts as an HDMI switcher In the case of all of my various cables I've tried, I'm only able to get a stable picture but cannot get stable audio as the audio will constantly drop in and out every few seconds. What is working:- Rad2x cable set I bought for use in testing RGB upgrades I install in the lab. This works out of the box without issue and provides an excellent picture for me. Course, this isn't going through my AV setup in the lab and is connected directly to the TV. Still for a good fairly inexpensive option, it works. Hyperkin Genesis to HDMI cable set. Yes I was kinda surprised on this one but it does indeed just work. You do have to supply external power to the box for this cable setup but for $30 USD + Shipping, this might just be the best route for folks to take that want to take advantage of that AV out port without a large investment and it is the cheapest option I know I have on hand that does seem to work. Here is a link to the Hyperkin cable I'm talking about: https://www.amazon.com/Hyperkin-HDTV-Cable-Genesis-Sega/dp/B07RW8R3QF?ref_=ast_sto_dp So in summary for me, this is what works: Rad2x for Genesis Hyperkin Genesis to HDMI (Appears that some colors aren't being shown with this cable in the much darker hues) Basically anything that doesn't have to process through my OSSC seems to work.

This is true only if the AV upgrade disabled or remove the RF modulator. If the RF modulator is left in place, then the system changer would still work on the console, but video output would be from the RF modulator only I believe.

Well then you had to have cut it because that is all one molded piece including the part in the center. That cartridge sleeve was never made as a 2 piece part. (Not including the small plastic spacer that the screws go into at the bottom of the cart port). Wait..I just noticed the pic you took is of a PAL version of the console. Is the cartridge sleeve on the PAL units two pieces then? The NTSC sleeve is all one large piece.

Well my take on it is this... If I'm using these plugs to check for diagnostic operations, then I likely have the main board already removed from the case shell as I normally would. Otherwise, some cheap controller extension cables could be used as well I'd think or the gender changers that I've seen folks use with the Avox on the 7800.

@CharChar2001, @tkarner The cartridge sleeve on the 7800 is held in place by two smaller #1 sized phillips head screws. They are hiding under small sections of double sided masking tape that was applied during assembly. So the process is... - Remove the 5 screws on the bottom of the console, 3 along the front 2 in the rear to remove the top shell cover. - Remove the main board assembly from the console - User needle nose pliers or similar to straigten the metal tabs that hold the shielding sections together (This can be a slight bear to do sometimes...) - After removing the RF shielding, turn the main board over and you will the small black tabs that pop through the main board for the sleeve. You will also notice the masking tape I mentioned just to the side of each tab. - Cut out or otherwise remove this masking tape to find it is hiding a small #1 phillips screw. Remove the screw on each side - Use your thumbs to press the tabs slightly inward and the entire sleeve will pop off the board - If you don't plan to use it again, then just reassemble the console in the opposite way to the above. But doing this means you won't be able to use 2600 games that have dust doors on them since that sleeve has the pegs needed to open those dust covers on those cartridges. This mainly just affects 1st party Atari made 2600 games, but again, something to keep in mind. The better solution is to either modify the cartridge sleeve physically to allow the cartridges to fit in better. There are a few ways this can be done. Or look to see if something like the 2600 Lock-On adapters that were being made and sold a few years back can still be had?