DanthWader
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Posts posted by DanthWader
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On 5/5/2020 at 11:49 AM, RetroGameBoyz said:
Wow guys thank you so much for the great feedback I’ve had the pleasure of working with many of you and it is my mission to provide superior quality and customer service. To date I am closing in on 2000 units sold of various configurations- for Vectrex , Atari (7800 and 2600) Colecovision, Commodore, Omega Race, Sega Master System, Amiga, Odyssey 2, TI-99, MSX and even my dual DPad Robotron 7800 controller and just recently started making 2 button 7800 arcade sticks by user request. You can always see what I’m up to at RetroGameBoyz.com and my Social channels under the same name. I normally am active on twitter though. Thanks again and if there is anything I can do to help just call on me. Stay well.
Boom, this is amazing. Haven't been on the forums in awhile due to life. I see listings and never really delved into who was behind them. Those controllers are awesome my man, the controller i made was a task to get to a "final product" had issues with sourcing, which created delays and weened interest. Had someone mentioning they needed the PCBs I hobbled together a few years ago with little PCB design experience. They are making cnc aluminum shells, now im thinking about getting some more ordered.
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On 12/23/2019 at 3:30 PM, Albert said:
I've seen this with A/V-modified systems and POKEY games, especially where all the audio is going through the POKEY. All my systems have stereo output, and I need to make sure I mix the two lines together before they go to the TV/Monitor or you may not hear anything with POKEY games.
..Al
Yup, finally got Bentley Bear for christmas this year and love it! I have an A/V modded 7800, mono split to to both channels and it sounds great. Could be a channel issue with the mod?
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I've done a conversion of an SNES controller to 7800. for a 2 button 1 D-Pad controller it was too many buttons doing the same thing. This could definitely work, easiest way to start is by drawing a rough schematic of all controllers and "combining" them. then hack the controller apart, remove anything connected to the chip on the board and wire from scratch like below...
Or you can abandon that idea altogether like I did and just redesign a PCB and make your own controller drop in...
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When DW was first talking to me about using my files as a starting point I had mentioned something along the lines of it becoming another job so have at it... it takes a lot of time and tedious dull repetitive work to be a 1 man factory, then yea life or something
It got pretty serious too! I think my total was around 200 controllers sold. I think I sold around 40 DIY kits as well, after putting together kits i quickly realized it takes about the same time to just assemble the damn thing
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It happens. People get full time jobs. Other hobbies. Births / Deaths / Marriage / Divorce / sickness in the family. Living arrangements change. Mortgage / bills happen. Or maybe they just need extra time for bowel movements.
As an example, I still have unfinished joystick woodboxes sitting in piles in the garage. Now my hobbies are shifting (I recently acquired a kiln) and I'm building and firing ceramics on my patio.
It was a bowel movement. Its moved now.
But yes a situation happened and I now have two full time jobs, I'm getting "overtime" at both as well. Needless to say I've been hammered, I've had three days off in two months now. It will all be worth it in a few months but I wont be very active. in about 4-5 months I'll be right back on my original schedule and start making more controllers. On a bad note, I had a shipment (albeit small) of 10 "prototype" controllers... they were the same controller, just fully assembled in china. I hadn't come up with packaging yet, I may have sold a few but they truly were for testing. They went missing during shipment, I decided to cheap out and send it by sea to save $$$ on shipping. It takes a month or two to arrive, if it arrives. The printed labels were garbage though, nevertheless money I didn't want to lose.
I may try and get some PCBs printed in the meantime. You can buy black nes controller on ebay and build the thing, might not be cheap, but its something right?
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"I think I have to poop"
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Those look amazing... Gorgeous work.
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I've come up with a pretty good solution, but i'll label that version as 7800 only. I'm going to extend the cart a bit so the board doesn't interfere with the top screws.
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Those labels on the carts look incredible! I'll have to adjust the screw holes up top for sure. what about the middle part where the PCB sits on the plastic, does that deter installation at all?
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I will on the next one; I already epoxied this one.
The supercart pcb was a Donkey Kong . I think Commando, BallBlazer, One on One and a few others are also on this pcb. Basically I think its the Pokey games.I've got another cart on the way, I need a good above view and side view shot to edit the model a bit. I wont need super exact measurements, more of a general understanding.
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"Remember: Giving pro-line controllers to kids is child abuse" -gorfcadet
I smirked at this comment, but it should be law. Thanks for the shout-out! looking forward to more videos and games!
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My only question about the cart shell is the two screw holes near the label end keep 7800 Supercart pcbs from fitting. If the screw wells/basins were shorter the pcb could still fit if the user left those two screws out. Is that change practical, or would it cause other problems?
This plastic is very malleable, easy to trim anything doing with an xacto knife. I personally would try to keep all four screws in. shoot me some photos of the effect and I can alter the model.
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The SNES pad for Robotron like games is not ideal.
For starters, the buttons are too far apart.
This... It is a larger spacing which makes it a bit uncomfortable. Other then designing a new controller from the floor up i'm not sure what controller would be the perfect fit for the 2600/7800.
I put some more goodies in the shop. check it out.... http://www.itsallgeek3d.com
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I know this is a bizarre question, have you ever considered a player 1 and 2 in one pad design? Games like Robotron and Indiana Jones would be so much better on a twin stick design
Yes I have, i'm just not entirely sure I personally could pull it off. It would need to be a simplified xbox/ps controller. I can do this with an snes controller where the 4-buttons can act like a directional pad, but it is not real comfortable. dual d-pads or toggles would do the trick. I personally couldn't afford get custom shells made, ATM i just get NES controller shells in black and slightly mod them(aftermarket shells are not identical OEM).
I would have to confirm 100s in preordered to cover the thousands of dollars to manufacture. This next batch of controllers are going to be fully assembled from the factory, and that cost a fortune.
See for real world costs: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/271862-brand-new-atari-jaguar-pro-controllers-production-campagin/page-1
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I have an oddball question. I have a NT Mini. It was originally designed to be a high end NES clone. That means it has 4 NES controller ports on the front. The system has been jail broken and has cores for the A2600 and A7800. Wondering if it is possible to convert A2600 paddles to a NES connector. Or even an adapter. Would it be difficult? I know there would be a niche market for this.
I'm sure it's possible, but the circuit for the nes vs atari controller are completely different. You are better off playing with the controllers that are compatible with it already.
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Put some fully assembled controller up on the shop.
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Are any of these still available?
Yeah, I forgot I was even selling them. Make an offer!
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Thanks again Fingolfin, I really appreciate that! Hope your Revenge of the Fith was excellent!!
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Also be sure to post some overlays for sale too (for those of us with pre-modded NES controllers).
The silver text on black background should work perfect for beige controllers.
I am waiting on a huge shipment of colors before I post it. We were running low on filament, i'll have that listing up ASAP.
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Have a few fully assembled controllers in stock. Still working on a listing for custom 3D printed label. Getting a large shipment of filament soon so we will have a TON of colors.
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Just assembled my kit but it's not working right. There's no response from the d-pad, and and the only game that does anything when I hit a button is Xevious, but once I've hit the buttons they just keep firing even after I release them.
I checked continuity on the wires before soldering, and then again after I found that it wasn't working. I even checked continuity from the plug to the button pads on the front of the pcb to see which wire was going to which pad and these are the results I get:
db9 - wire - button pad
1 - blue - up
2 - yellow - down
3 - brown - left
4 - white - right
5 - red - B
6 - green - A and B
7 - orange - no response from any of the button pads
8 - grey - start and select
9 - black - A
This is what I got as well on the other cables. Used my instructions as reference too
Here are the updated ones once again
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Okay here is an updated instruction set with the correct pinout for the DB9 cable!!!
Do not use the one above!
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Ok, I've figured out what happened. When checking what wire went to what pin I used the numbering from the pinout diagram in the pdf instructions, but that diagram shows it from the console side, not from the end of the plug, so I ended up with the wires in the wrong order. I switched the wires around and now it works.
Oh no! I need to fix that in the diagram!
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The step-by-step written instructions alone would have been great. The picture captures you've included are awesome, very clear, and in abundance.
Thank you for creating and sharing that with the community.
Thanks for the kind words! I wanted to be thorough but I may have "over-explained" a few things.
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Stella's Stocking
in Atari 2600+
Posted
Could not get it to work today, christmas eve