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I see... I thought that because I'm too lazy to resolder the shield and almost all my retro are .. naked! But, I've no more VCR 😂

That's what the metal shield around the Intellivisionmotherboard is for...

No, R6 was added only for testing the code, it tie to gnd the software reset line when floating, but it's not needed at all in final version and i don't think it could help you with issue you have

@Tissemon you don't need to add R6 in RTO pcb, i used it only for testing purpose but it's not needed. Indeed, it's strange you got issue with polarized capacitor, i used it with success and some intellivision schematics (and the "II" too) show a polarised cap in reset circuitry

Thank you @Tissemon for testing, but it's strange you got reset working only sometime, and never when console is "warm". The circuit it's simple, the capacitor need to be discharged to reset the cpu, and that's why the cartridge ground it via slot's pin 12. And, since the Intellivision II (as far as i can read in schematic) use a 4.7uf capacitor instead a 1uf capacitor, that's probably why RTOCart seems have more issue in resetting when used in a Inty II instead of in a classic one. I have only two Intellivision I PAL console with new 1uf caps and both work without issue, so i can't do any test for helping guys with problem in reset, like you, but there are only two way in my opinion to check further: 1) hardware: the fact that original cartridges start itself doesn't mean for sure that your reset circuit is fine, since they have pin 12 ALWAYS tied to ground. In this case, charging and discharging timing have no difference, while in RTO the reset is software driven, and timing is crucial. So, you should test the 10k resistor R15 if is good, and maybe try if using a bigger one (i.e. a 20k one) or a less power capacitor C26 (i.e. a 0.47uF - 470nF) could change (and how) the scenario. 2) software: the missing reset it's becouse your C26 capacitor can't discharge completely and setting reset line to 0V: maybe changing the timing in new ResetCart() routine, and i think in particular lowering the delay after resetHigh and improving the pause after the resetLow. I've no console with issue to test, but that's what i'll do in case.

@Tissemon and all other guys that had issue in RTO autoresetting, i attach a new version of RTOCart ino code that include a workaround proposed by @JaneDoe649 (thanks to her/him) on my github's page. It should work with both Inty I & II and with original RTOCart board (without any hw mod). Please feel free to test it and report if it fix your issue! RTOCart1.1a.ino

RTO is a sdcard based project, so you could store on it all games you want

Unfortunatelly you're not the only one with a reset issue with RTO cart, i had reported some strange behaviours in resetting that i can't reproduce at the moment and so neither resolve. One friends of mine has two RTO carts, one works fine and the other doesn't reset itself, with the same console! Probably the 5-11 way to gnd the pin 12 is "stronger" and works better, and maybe i'd adopt the Chip Enable on/off solution in the next 1.2 release. I'd like to design a cheaper solution based on the Raspberry pico instead of a Teensy. I'm working on others projects actually, but in fall i could recover my intellivision from the box!

Original carts have reset always tied to gnd, so a bad connection may be not an issue, while RTO needs goods contact. You should check all the track in intellivision from reset cartridge pin (no. 12) to the capacitor, and clean it with IPA. This is reset pin:

Do you thank REV because he isn't involved in this project? 😂

I think the hw changes by +5-11under make no difference, to reset the line must go low (gnd) until MSync. No difference for 3v3 or impedance, since the pullup resistor keep the 5v on the intellivision if circuit isn't grounded. But, his reset routine has different logic and timing, and he tested it with intellivision II (I'll probably get one only next month), so it may works better than mine. You could easily replace original resetCart() function with +5-11under's one, and give a try!

Well, the difference is that original carts always tie pin 12 and gnd linked, while RTO drive the line to GND only when needed. You could try a lower resistance to R6 (100 ohm or less), or even a direct link (a wire or a zero ohm resistor) only to check if in that case the RTO starts. [added] you could also try to change the delay time at line 710 and 713 of "ino" code: i made a lot of tests and the value of 6 and 2 milliseconds for the on/off seemed the best for me, but probably different values would work better in your case.

No, i mean original "cartridge", not capacitor.... do you need to test with an intellivision cartridge if it boot to the splash screen of the game without the reset button! The reset circuit in intv is pretty simple: the reset line is keep high as soon as C26 is charged by R15 resistor connected to 5v. All cartridges (and RTO, LTO, etc.) simply pull low to GND the line from connector (line pointed by the green arrow in the pitcure) for reset: The reset button S1 bypass the C26 so it works even with a bad capacitor or resistor. I added a resistor in RTO for further test when my initial attempt to reset the intellivision was a failure, but then i discovered i had a bad C26 (like the 90% of the intellivisions i saw all around ).

Very strange, RTO v. 1.1 does automatic reset at boot and after rom selection, or when pressed button n. 3! Do none of them works with 1uf bipolar electrolytic caps? Do an original Intellivision Cartridge boot itself without reset button? if not, it's not an RTO issue. And, i used both bipolar and polaryzed 1uf electrolytic capacitor in my intellivision and worked fine with automatic reset.

Very nice! The only suggestion i could give is that the black color for the font is not so readable over the library.. but probably you already tested differents colors!