aotta
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Posts posted by aotta
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7 minutes ago, Tissemon said:
And also - I found out why I had so much grain in the image all of a sudden. I have my INTV unit on top of a VCR that the INTV is connected to with RF cable - it’s the VCR that makes the interference! When I move the INTV away from the VCR I get a nice, smooth image 😆
That's what the metal shield around the Intellivisionmotherboard is for...
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No, R6 was added only for testing the code, it tie to gnd the software reset line when floating, but it's not needed at all in final version and i don't think it could help you with issue you have
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@Tissemon you don't need to add R6 in RTO pcb, i used it only for testing purpose but it's not needed.
Indeed, it's strange you got issue with polarized capacitor, i used it with success and some intellivision schematics (and the "II" too) show a polarised cap in reset circuitry
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Thank you @Tissemon for testing, but it's strange you got reset working only sometime, and never when console is "warm".
The circuit it's simple, the capacitor need to be discharged to reset the cpu, and that's why the cartridge ground it via slot's pin 12.
And, since the Intellivision II (as far as i can read in schematic) use a 4.7uf capacitor instead a 1uf capacitor, that's probably why RTOCart seems have more issue in resetting when used in a Inty II instead of in a classic one.
I have only two Intellivision I PAL console with new 1uf caps and both work without issue, so i can't do any test for helping guys with problem in reset, like you, but there are only two way in my opinion to check further:
1) hardware: the fact that original cartridges start itself doesn't mean for sure that your reset circuit is fine, since they have pin 12 ALWAYS tied to ground. In this case, charging and discharging timing have no difference, while in RTO the reset is software driven, and timing is crucial.
So, you should test the 10k resistor R15 if is good, and maybe try if using a bigger one (i.e. a 20k one) or a less power capacitor C26 (i.e. a 0.47uF - 470nF) could change (and how) the scenario.
2) software: the missing reset it's becouse your C26 capacitor can't discharge completely and setting reset line to 0V: maybe changing the timing in new ResetCart() routine, and i think in particular lowering the delay after resetHigh and improving the pause after the resetLow. I've no console with issue to test, but that's what i'll do in case.
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@Tissemon and all other guys that had issue in RTO autoresetting, i attach a new version of RTOCart ino code that include a workaround proposed by @JaneDoe649 (thanks to her/him) on my github's page.
It should work with both Inty I & II and with original RTOCart board (without any hw mod).
Please feel free to test it and report if it fix your issue!
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2 hours ago, Crash7 said:
How many games will it store?
RTO is a sdcard based project, so you could store on it all games you want
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1 hour ago, Tissemon said:
I might try to modify my RTO-cart as 5-11 suggested some time later, but for now I’ll just accept that I will have to press reset 😞
Unfortunatelly you're not the only one with a reset issue with RTO cart, i had reported some strange behaviours in resetting that i can't reproduce at the moment and so neither resolve. One friends of mine has two RTO carts, one works fine and the other doesn't reset itself, with the same console!
Probably the 5-11 way to gnd the pin 12 is "stronger" and works better, and maybe i'd adopt the Chip Enable on/off solution in the next 1.2 release. I'd like to design a cheaper solution based on the Raspberry pico instead of a Teensy. I'm working on others projects actually, but in fall i could recover my intellivision from the box!
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Original carts have reset always tied to gnd, so a bad connection may be not an issue, while RTO needs goods contact. You should check all the track in intellivision from reset cartridge pin (no. 12) to the capacitor, and clean it with IPA.
This is reset pin:
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I think the hw changes by +5-11under make no difference, to reset the line must go low (gnd) until MSync. No difference for 3v3 or impedance, since the pullup resistor keep the 5v on the intellivision if circuit isn't grounded.
But, his reset routine has different logic and timing, and he tested it with intellivision II (I'll probably get one only next month), so it may works better than mine.
You could easily replace original resetCart() function with +5-11under's one, and give a try!
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43 minutes ago, Tissemon said:
I just tested with R6-resistor on the RTO removed, but that didn't make any difference.
Well, the difference is that original carts always tie pin 12 and gnd linked, while RTO drive the line to GND only when needed.
You could try a lower resistance to R6 (100 ohm or less), or even a direct link (a wire or a zero ohm resistor) only to check if in that case the RTO starts.
[added]
you could also try to change the delay time at line 710 and 713 of "ino" code: i made a lot of tests and the value of 6 and 2 milliseconds for the on/off seemed the best for me, but probably different values would work better in your case.
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21 minutes ago, Tissemon said:
None of my three PCBs booted automatically without reset with original capacitors.
When I had recapped all three, one of them boots automatically.
No, i mean original "cartridge", not capacitor.... do you need to test with an intellivision cartridge if it boot to the splash screen of the game without the reset button!
The reset circuit in intv is pretty simple: the reset line is keep high as soon as C26 is charged by R15 resistor connected to 5v. All cartridges (and RTO, LTO, etc.) simply pull low to GND the line from connector (line pointed by the green arrow in the pitcure) for reset:
The reset button S1 bypass the C26 so it works even with a bad capacitor or resistor.
I added a resistor in RTO for further test when my initial attempt to reset the intellivision was a failure, but then i discovered i had a bad C26 (like the 90% of the intellivisions i saw all around
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1 hour ago, Tissemon said:
Ok, so I've made some more tests now!
I made an interesting discovery: When I recapped the "normal" PCB, I used a ceramic 1uF 50V instead of a normal bipolar capacitor. That worked in all games I tried, but I still had to press reset to start the RTO but, more importantly, it made graphical glitches in Antarctic Adventure. When I switched to a normal 1uF 50V BP cap instead, everything works fine. - Well, almost - RTO still won't boot until I press reset.
Very strange, RTO v. 1.1 does automatic reset at boot and after rom selection, or when pressed button n. 3!
Do none of them works with 1uf bipolar electrolytic caps?
Do an original Intellivision Cartridge boot itself without reset button? if not, it's not an RTO issue.
And, i used both bipolar and polaryzed 1uf electrolytic capacitor in my intellivision and worked fine with automatic reset.
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Very nice! The only suggestion i could give is that the black color for the font is not so readable over the library.. but probably you already tested differents colors!
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2 minutes ago, RockLobster said:
@aotta it seems you can code but not manage brand management... Please read a bit about brand definition, public perception, customer engagement, partner channel leveraging and PM.
I found social interactions IRL all the information needed to build a well adjusted life, if you can't understand the difference between expanding and hurting RTO (unlike @5-11under who knows how to engage us) after tons of pages, it's not my fault!
(Should I build an RTO, thank you and send you gifts? I promise not to be insulting or ungrateful.)
I'm here to share my retrocomputer's passion with other enthusiast, not for selling something. And, for sure, i don't have to answer you (even if you name me several times with @ or increasing the voice with bold or capitalized letters) : if you don't want to waste your time reading, why should do i in summarizing posts for you? I simply pointed you to the right topic (where some good guy found time to recap things to you) but you didn't like it.
I continue suggesting you to read and study this forum, you'll learn much about this great console. And, i'll stop answering you, especially in this thread, we both spammed the 5-11under topic too much. -
@RockLobster it seems you can use Google but not a Forum... Please read a bit about Forum logic and nétiquette, search options, off topics and PM.
I found here all the information needed to built the RTO multicart, if you can't understand the difference from backbit and rto (or rto version by 5-11under) after were written tons of pages, it's not my fault!
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1 hour ago, RockLobster said:
Can you clarify what it means to require proprietary roms?
No, RTO doesn't use any proprietary "things", only Bin+Cfg. You may ask in backbit thread
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Please don't go out of topic.... this thread tends too often to do! 😄
So let's use general RTO 3ad or create a new one for discussing about comparting multicarts on the scene.
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Nothing else to suggest you, in my opinion the only way to understand what's wrong is comparing the datasheet of both original VDU and the rearranged on daughterboard one, to get the differences.
May be that the daughterboard solution was not 100% compatible with the original IC, that's why would be interesting check with an original Dracula cart. Look if some of your friend could rent it for some test!
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20 minutes ago, mr_me said:
The Backbit supports rom files that use jlp hardware acceleration and jlp save game feature.
AFAIK and as Backbit's creators wrote here, it support only jlp save game feature, not the hardware acceleration.
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Backbit and RTO have almost the same compatibility, but are different concepts: the first is a multiplatform flash based multicart, and need its proprietary roms file format to run. The second is an intellivision only multicart based on sdcard storage, and use jzintv bin+cfg files.
LTO is a flash based multicart with addicted cryptographic and new other functions to Inty, and its needed to play some specific homebrew new games designed for LTO.
Why people should wait for? They shouldn't, jzintv is free and you can play all intellivision games on your PC.
But, i prefer to play chess with my old intellivision, using that strange golden controllers... And i think I'm not the only one 😜
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13 minutes ago, 5-11under said:
Some would say funny, some would not. Mostly, though, it seems to be confusing people.
The other thread is more general. Alternately, you could create your own thread, and post pictures, links, etc. of versions made by all sorts of people.
i meant it was funny from you, you get my hardware and software, rewrite the schematic with SMD chips instead of THT (i could make it in ten minutes), didn't left my name on the label and are going to sell a product without my permission (and i won't give you it if you won't put it opensource as from Github license), letting you and your future buyers in an unlawful situation.
Others who are building the RTO don't stop thanking me and giving me gifts, you ask me not to post on your thread? it seems really insulting or at least ungrateful of you.
It's over 6 months you are working at "your production" of RTO, and no ETA is given... i'm afraid it's that that may confusing people.
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3 minutes ago, 5-11under said:
Please make a new thread for this, or post it in the other RTO thread. This is confusing people.
I think having the manual is useful for people.. and the project it's mine, it sounds funny you ask me not to write about it 😂
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9 minutes ago, utri007 said:
I'm confused? Is price about a 85€ as earlier said or over 150€? I can justify myself to buying multicart with 85€, but over 150€ is just too much. Is there two different versions?
I was talking about a different production, more expensive, not the +5-11under one!
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Intellivision RTO-MultiCart - new multicart
in Intellivision / Aquarius
Posted
I see... I thought that because I'm too lazy to resolder the shield and almost all my retro are .. naked! But, I've no more VCR 😂